Hey there, fellow Aussie Workbee owner here. I share your frustration with the play in the Z and X axis multiplying off each other. I haven't played in Alloy yet, but had accuracy issues from my (z axis mounted) dust collection bristles deforming the axis enough with just hardwood on relatively deep plunges. I was trying to get repeatable cuts in components that would ultimately mount together, but the axis was defecting enough to get an angled cut on the deeper component. I went for the independent dust boot solution rather than the linear rail solution (at least for now), it was working well, but the baseplate was 3D printed and ultimately has sagged over time... That was the first time I legitimately considered cutting alloy for a replacement part. Been following your channel for quite some time, great to see you're still at it! Keep up the great work
Thank you for your long time support!! So glad to have another Aussie/workbee user following 🤩 yes I will continue to play with ideas for the dust boot also. I do like the independent dust boot approach! I rest appreciate your support 👍👍
This sort of "years on" update is so much more useful when planning and deciding on machines than "here's my brand new toy!" type videos. On ya NEWTech!
You have very good videos. I think your upgrade is speed is Uno i believe its 8bit processing vs the tinybee board is 32bit processing. right now I'm upgrading my k40 co2 laser and learning more about this subject matter.
its a well known fact that RGB lighting adds extra stiffness to the machine, it is one of the nicest machines I've seen out there and will be borrowing some of your concepts for my own machine, but my main machine will be made from carbon steel instead of aluminium
Hello, thank you for your video. How precise is the machine? I would like to buy a Stepcraft, but it's not cheap and that's why I'm looking for alternatives
Since purchasing the original workbee, there has been many upgrades made by the community. You can get the ‘QueenBee Pro’ and the specs are comparable to the tolerance of the stepcraft, however without owning either machines it is impossible to validate. With the stepcraft, you are purchasing a pre assembled and tested unit, support and a guaranteed experience. Where the QueenBee Pro, you have to build it yourself and you are responsible for the outcome, however you have a machine that is much greater in size and half the price. If you’re confident in building a CNC from a kit build and ensuring it’s square and dialed in the Queenbee Pro is great. I hope this helps 👍
Very nice video!!! I'm really considering the X and Z axis upgrade you showed. Last week i ran a programme and halfway it just build up tiny errors and i could see in the wood that it shifted... Unfortunately i see some of your links no longer work, would you maybe consider updating them?🙏 I'm a bit of a newbie to CNC, but if i understand correctly: if i get the Z axis assembly from Ali and the lineair rails for the X axis i'm pretty much set for a stiffer gantry? Thanks a lot for your video!
Thanks for your comments!! I have updated the links in the description. AliExpress seem to be change links every now and then, so unfortunately I can’t guarantee they will always work! Regarding the thicker beams, It depends where in the world you live. I’ll include a link to a few options in the description for you. Feel free to jump onto my discord for direct support! discord.gg/2sZeFQVf
Hi, great upgrades.. :) One question...Workbee have this configuration XYYZ, and Tinybee board I think have different configuration for drivers and motors...how did you connect 2 Y motors? :)
Can you list what challenges you had to overcome when converting the X axis to linear rail? Was considering a Queen Ant upgrade but this would be a much cheaper path. As for the Z-Axis I would like to see where I am at after updating the X axis.
I agree! I think the main challenge was to dismantle the original parts really! It will be easier to add everything onto the x beam when removed off the machine then screw on after. You can get away with not needing the extra thick c-beam… I think the rails make a huge difference in stiffening the x axis, however if your like me and may as well do it all at once - go for it! I can share my front z axis adapter plate as well… I cut mine out of 13mm aluminum, however 8mm will suffice. Then you will need 2xm8 & 2xm5 bolts to insert from the back of the old plate through the 3d printed spacers then thread your front adapter plate to fasten.. this will create a strong bond. I can proved better instructions if you need? Send me an email to newtechcreative@gmail.com
Hi I am Taljit Singh from India, I am developing.. Cnc router with MKS DLC 32v2.1......i flashes fluid NC in to board, but when I connect end switch to board, it automatically disconnected, COM port not detect it, can you share any solution to fix it. And your Machine is too good, look wise and it's performance....... Thanks
Thanks for your comment Taljit. I’m not familiar with this board however from my experience this could be one of two things. 1. There are 3 pins- GND, 5v and COM pins. If you have connected the wrong pins, this could cause an issue. Check pins with a multimeter to check. 2. There might be a manufacturing issue with board and a connecting might be bridged. Once again, check with your multimeter for faults and continuity of pins. Sorry I do not have a magic fix! Good luck 👍
But with the upgrade does that turn it into Workbee Z1+? Is that the difference with the original one VS the newer one? Would you say the tech included with this machine is worth the overall cost? Thanks
No sorry. The Z1+ still uses the plastic wheels and has the same issues. There are other versions made by 3rd parties that come with linear rails such as the ultimate bee or queen bee. 👍
I purchased the original 1000x1500 workbee from bulkman for USD660 (without electronics or spindle as I already owned) and rails for USD150… total of USD810… not bad!! The only downside is that I lost 60mm in x travel distance with my new upgrade - definitely worth the compromise!!
as per esp32 and fluid NC software user interface is web based platform. we can change or monitor whats going on by TAB,MOBILE,PC which have wifi and and capable of opening browser--which i have understood from your video esp32 fluidnC. My question is if i use raspbery pi zero W then is it possible to use that web page of interfacing???
@@NEWTechCreative I actually want to use cnc without pc, as mach3 I have used,all the time pc needs to on. Now fluidnc cnc html web based then raspberry Pi support whole Linux OS , then it will also support web browser. After testing I will update to you.thanks for reply,
