Do you know if the Metabones EF-MFT M4/3 Mount T Cine Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71 will work well with the BMPCC 4K+SIGMA 18-35MM F/1.8 DC HSM ART CANON EF-S lens? Or do I really need the ULTRA 0.71 that is specifically designed for the BMPCC 4K? I'm asking because I can not find the ULTRA 0.71 that is specifically designed for the BMPCC 4K second hand but I can get the Metabones EF-MFT M4/3 Mount T Cine Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71 second hand.
Just to clarify, are you meaning the speed booster that you locks the lens in? Like you twist the locking mechanism? If that’s the one you’re referring to then yes I do believe that’ll work. It doesn’t work with lenses that have the weather sealing gasket around the mount.
@@alexshotthese I bought a BMPCC 4K second hand but to my suprise it still had a metabones 0,64x on it. I bought the SIGMA 18-35MM F/1.8 DC HSM ART CANON EF-S lens to make use of the speedbooster, but it caused vignette. So I heard the 0,71 could get rid of this, but I'm wondering if I need the 0,71x that is specifically designed for the BMPCC 4K to get rid of this vignette or if I can get the T Cine Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71 to fix this vignette problem as well.
You don’t need the specific bmpcc4k one. I only got that just because it has the rear element that gets closer to the sensor for an overall sharper image.
If you got with the .71 speed booster then yes. That’s the speed booster I have as I knew the .64 would cause a vignette at the wide end of the sigma 18-35mm.
So what I have found using the same smallrig hdmi adpator is that, just like you said, it’s made out of this soft plastic, and you actually only need to tighten it with your fingers, but not with a hex key… I think tighten it too much with a screw driver deforms it a little bit and makes the connection unstable. You want to back off the screw a bit and really push the connection part against camera, until you hear it make this “soft click” noise, and then screw in the screw with your hand. And it should work, mine has been very stable. Hope that helps!
@@alexshotthese yea..agreed. I read about the connection issue before I bought it on Amazon, but I couldn't find any alternative, so I'm glad I could make it work for my setup haha! but I agree, they should update the design and make it better...I am not hopeful though because there might not be a big enough market for them to do that.😥
I'm using Makita cordless tool batteries to power my BMPCC4K camera. I found a Makita battery adapter on eBay and wired it up to a DC-DC buck converter that accepts 15-40VDC input and has a stable 12VDC output. The buck converter serves two purposes. It protects the camera from over-voltage and it protects the battery from draining below 15V. Running your batteries completely flat is not healthy for them, so the buck converter helps protect the integrity of the battery. I own a lot of Makita power tools and now have a dual purpose for the batteries.
That’s awesome! Yeah I never have issues of over voltage since the batteries I have were designed with the pocket in mind. I also never run them dry, but have run them down to about one bar. They still work great.
I have never heard of that. I’ve been powering from the dtap on my vmount plate since owning it. I’ve had the camera for roughly two years now I think. Never had issues.
SmallRig's HDMI/USB C adapter is shit. I had three of them and ALL of them had either issues with the USB-C or the HDMI. Never got one where they both worked. I guess on the plus side, I never got one where both were shot. 😆 Great camera otherwise and the best cage in IMHO because of the unibody build. Thanks for sharing!
That’s sad to hear. Was curious to know if it was better, but I guess I’ll just continue using it just for the HDMI feature haha. I use mostly cfast cards anyways.
Any particular advice when shopping for Matte boxes, I was thinking between the small rig one and the Tilta one but I haven’t heard of this one. Any particular reason why this polar pro was “the one”?
I’ve used the tilta mattebox at an old job. It’s nice, but kind of small. The Smallrig one looks better just because it’s beefier, but I’ve never used it personally. I do like how you put in the ND’s on the smallrig version compared to the Tilta. Polarpro was the one for me just because I’ve used their products before, but I also love how versatile they’ve made the basecamp. They’ve added an option to purchase a second slot so if you have their mist filter then you can slot that in and have the variable ND to go along with it. I just dig the system. It’s a little bulky, but I prefer that for my rig because clients see that and think, “this guy is legit.” It’s a weird thought process but it totally works.
Do you use the ninja for your recording or do you use an SSD? With the t5 not in production and I here the t7 won’t work with the 4K I’m trying to figure out the best storage to record to. Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
I’m actually only using Cfast cards. I feel it’s better and safer to use internal recording media. I know they’re a bit expensive, but I saved up for a 512GB and 256GB card and I feel those two together work wonderfully for my workflow.
@@alexshotthese good to know. My other camera is a Fuji XH2S and I’ve done the same thing with c-fast 2.0. I didn’t realize how much more expensive normal c-fast can be. But I do appreciate your recommendations. Thank you for the quick reply.
Just realized I didn’t put those on my links in the description below! They’re from Nicey rig. I’ll update my description with those links. Also, not sure it will work with the Tilta cage though. I’d assume so!
It should. The niceyrig handle should still fit, but you might have to have to slightly more extended out so you may not be able to hold the handle and still reach the record button, if that makes sense?
@@alexshotthese Hey! Quick question: Is there a reason that justifies the cost of the Fotga focus puller in this video compared to the less pricey Smallrig Mini Follow Focus?
My friend had that small follow focus and I just really liked how it felt. Also, where I worked at the time they had a mini follow focus similar to smallrig’s. It actually would always pull away from the lens since it was just on a single rod and that was with it extremely tightened. The way I use my camera just needed that extra sturdiness.