I recently started doing some of these after doing my own research and I can vouch that they actually help me climb better and be more conscious of activating muscles. Super cool routine!
Funnily enough, I'm sort of a begginer (1.5 years experience and around the V4 level) and I do most of these for my warm up. As for drills, another couple good ones are straight/relaxed arms, "not stopping" (so you do an easy boulder but your body is always swinging, so you are more dynamic and deadpointy), or no readjusting (so you get used to focus on correct hand and foot placements).
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing It at least makes you more aware when you do readjust (sometimes it's needed). It also teaches you to go from uncomfortable positions when you do place something wrong, which translates to the worse footholds or handholds you get on your limit climbs vs your warmup. Got it from a Louis Parkinson video, shout out!
Yeah, my routine is quite similar as well. And I also focus on flexibility since it is one of weak points and I cannot make myself work much on it at any other time. On the topic of flexibility. Does anyone know, how to improve ability to match your foot with your hand? I couldn't find any videos or discussions on that particular topic. And I wasn't able to find a strech mwlyself which would give significant result with that problem.
@@dmitriydrozdov1035 For range of motion, matching hand and foot requires hamstring flexibility. But that's the extending side, which is mostly passive. To improve your active range of motion, you also need to strengthen the contracting muscle, which in this case would be mostly the hip flexor.
Very useful! I do a lot of these things, including the warm up and technique warmups by actively thinking about style. I can confirm it is a game changer!
I was searching for something straightforward like this. I am the kind that is to impatient to warm up and I don't usually regret it but someday I will so this landed perfectly in my feed. Love the content btw
I do a very similar warm up routine albeit heavier on band exercises for shoulder and wrist. I adapted it from gymnasts, they sure know the science of prehab for high intensity bodyweight disciplines.
Yeah! if you see this video of mine ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ggV5jrWaaYo.html I actually mention how some of the best climbers have a background in gymnastics and how many of the concepts translate, not just the excercises. Movement is universal
@@beelzebub2808 Wow, thanks man! That's probably the best compliment I could ever get. As long as I put out good stuff the rest will come with time. If you think this was good just wait for the next one!
For the one arm hang shoulder warm up. If you really want to isolate the shoulders to warm it up, don't use your Pinky finger and your wrist wont be interfering your shoulder. I do this while doing 1 arm twists while hanging and it really activates your shoulder.
@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing more like a pull up grip on a bar with 3 fingers (no thumb). it hurt a bit in the beginning but in the end felt nice to accomplish.
I personally don't do either after sessions, I do understand why you should but I always seem to just end up adding more junk load to my session. I would rather cut it a bit shorter and not wear out my body more. But for mobility I try to do it by its self so I dont neglect it
I do a very similar routine, one thing that I suggest is downclimbing the easier boulders you are using to warm up, trying to reach the furthest foothold you can, while keeping your hips close to the wall, that helps a lot in opening the hips
Louis Parkinson just recently put out a video with a lot of great drills for learning movement and technique as part of a warmup. Would reccomend checking it out. The title is about being stronger than your grade and learning technique.
Really good ideas for warm up. No idea what type of person neglets warm up if they are serious about their fitness. For a person who hates wasting time, it took you two and a half minutes to go to the point. That is almost 20% of your video.
I think since I had seen a lot of improvement over the years without warming up and initially didnt have any issues with it I just let go of the idea. Then once I did try it out it felt that I wasnt getting anything out of it so it was just a waste of time. Lol I get what you mean, I think its very important to establish context and also all the studies i've seen regarding learning and memory is to first point out why the following info will be important so that the brain is primed to take it in. Even though the video is my routine I think whats more important is learning the ideas behind it so anyone can adapt it to their needs
Hey, really enjoyed the video! I will definitely try it out soon, but could you provide the science studies you used? I am writing a school project about climbing training and would love some good warm up articles. Thank you!
Hey! Sure, I went through quite a few but these 2 were the ones I based most off + Personal experience www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/23328940.2017.1356427 www.researchgate.net/publication/280945961_Jeffreys_I_2007_Warm-up_revisited_The_ramp_method_of_optimizing_warm-ups_Professional_Strength_and_Conditioning_6_12-18 I would add that there are many youtube videos and instagram posts that count in the personal experience. Like lattice, the climbing physio, hoopers beta and more Hope this helps out!
I'm interested in the science this was based on? I notice it was absent despite the video title, is there any source material you used that you could provide?
Hey my friend, sure, here are a few of the papers that helped me the most! www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/23328940.2017.1356427?scroll=top&needAccess=true#d1e812 www.researchgate.net/publication/280945961_Jeffreys_I_2007_Warm-up_revisited_The_ramp_method_of_optimizing_warm-ups_Professional_Strength_and_Conditioning_6_12-18
Nice tips! But i think your warm ups on the wall are a little too hard for warming up. I usualy pick around 8-10 boulders from the lower grades and focus on al the different techniques that i want to improve. A warm up boulder should look easy, struggle free and has almost 0% chance you fall of it.
Some times that still happens. When ever it happens to me it's usually because o one of 3 reasons: 1. I've been climbing too hard / too much / or only in one style 2. my rest has not been great or am really stressed 3. i've been eating a ton of junk food I would recommend if you haven't to see this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ggV5jrWaaYo.html
