Great photography! I have seldom seen such professional lighting; makes viewing really enjoyable. Your editing is also exception. Looking forward to the rest of this project.😊 Jnra
Thank you! I’m finding I’m enjoying learning about the photography and editing as much as learning about cars. I’m using Adobe Premiere Pro for the editing software. Thanks for watching!
Did that to a 65 back in 1974, though suspension differs. made a throwout bearing noise, but with the clutch released. It was the bolts behind the flywheel holding the bell housing onto the engine. the loose bolts rubbed the flywheel.
Patience is definetly a virtue when working on these old cars. Heat and pentrating oil will save you a world of headaches as you learned. I like to try and clean the exposed threads before removing a nut or bolt if at all possible with a wire wheel or brush. That helps once you break it loose. Of course that is not always possible. Good work! enjoying watching the progress.
I know it’s too late now, but they make water-proof/exterior painters tape. Works great. In case you ever need it in the future. I used it when I thought I had a sunroof leak. Turned out to be the windshield gasket. But it did its job and helped me troubleshoot the issue.
Love watching your ‘63 Corvair Spyder videos. I’ve seen three of them so far. I have a non-running ‘64 Corvair Spyder Convertible 4-speed in my garage getting way too little attention from me. You’re inspiring me to get after it. I work on lots of newer cars (I’m a very accomplished shade tree mechanic), but my Spyder (her name is Jennifer) is getting jealous. I’d post a picture of her if I can figure out how.
Great job, I'm sure you learned a lot!! High pressure is not necessary for cleaning. Use plenty of degreaser, Sam's Club has a very good purple one, cheap by the gallon. Scrape off the heavy crud first. Putty knives and plastic scrapers work well. You can get 90% off and brush it away. Get a regular parts brush and old tooth brush. Work through grime a layer at a time. Rinses away easily. You'll be eating off the engine, without the huge mess of greasy spray all over everything.
These are good tips and you should see me trying to employ them in an upcoming video with the engine out of the car. That Purple stuff is pretty good I found out. Thanks for watching!
Oh... What a strange car to remove the engine from... I'm posting this before watching to say... I'd be pulling the CV axles first and then staring at it to decide if it needs to go up, or down out of the car... I've pulled a VW bug engine before, a smaller, similar horizontally opposed engine. The VW bug / bus engines always go down. It's easy because the car weighs about as much as a wet paper bag and one or two people can just pick the car up and shove it forward like a wheel barrow, but I have never worked on a Corvair before. I respect your dedication to this project and your willingness to do what needs to be done, keep up the great work!
Many parallels between the Corvair and the Beetle for sure. Don't think the Corvair would be quite as easy to lift and move like a wheel barrow lol. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
@@lostwrenchgarage They're not super heavy but yeah, it'd take a few more people to lift that car up than a beetle to say the least. I'm kinda scared what you're gonna find when you dig into the rust though, good luck and keep up the great work!
This is a super exposition of what its like working on a car that has been sat for years. Following these principals anybody can remove the parts and the engine whether it be a Corvair or not. Great job of doing all that without shearing any bolts or studs. Look forward to your next videos.
I took your advice the other day when I repeated the pressure washing with the engine on the table and used a wider nozzle. I think it was helpful. I'll look for Purple Power too. Thanks!
Top is 24”x30” and it’s rated for 400lbs. My research indicates the engine with standard transmission weighs 330lbs. I noticed with the casters turned in the same direction on one side the legs begin to skew a bit. So it’s adequate but near the limit. Would also go with a lower table for added stability and ease of working on it.
Rear engine mount bolts are grade eight, I would be tempted to go to larger bolts. Vacuum control on distributor is spryer only backs timing when boost is on. Also had throttle cut wide open. Linkage falls off and is spring loaded open. Johnfweis@icloud.com 21:44
