Thanks for this info. I have done your collapsed lifter trick with your kit and it worked great but a year later and changed my valve cover to the updated one and no more oil consumption. As I speak and a year later my valve in the same #4 cylinder of my collapsed lifter has gone bad so I'm doing a texas speed dod delete with there stage 1 cam. I was just about to put that baffle on but now I will just leave it how it is since I have no oil pressure or oil consumption issues for a whole year. I'm changing everything that is old since I have almost 195k on it. Thanks for the in depth contents and keep up the great work
Thank goodness my 4.8 doesnt have it, only the pickup tube oring and an engine flush fixed the sewing machine noise. It made me stay away from mobil 1 oil
When I removed all the AFM hardware on my '06, I also replaced the oil pump with a regular volume pump. Right away I noticed my pressure was lower and as the oil got some mileage on it, it would trigger a pressure sensor performance code. Pressure wasn't low enough to trigger the low pressure light but it was definitely lower than before. Engine ran fine, no noises. Once I replaced the pump with a stock AFM high volume pump, all was good. Don't know if it's just engine wear or the bypass in the pan doing that but this engine needs the high volume pump.
Would plugging up the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan increase oil pressure on trucks with out the DOD/AFM ? And a standard volume oil pump? I have an 07 Yukon Denali with low oil pressure after warm up at idle (15psi) and I'm thinking of doing this because I've replaced the oil pump and sending switch with no luck. I appreciate your reply and knowledge. Thank you
Great video. I bought the driver's side valve cover with the new baffle in it and I still get oil sucked up into the catch can but not as much as the old one.
Chevy tahoe 2011 5.3 I change all Lifters, cam, oil Pump the one for denali, pressure sensor with screen, o ring,valve in drain case, all gaskets. Then the oil pressure gose under quarter(((after engine warm))) just in stop after drive about 20 minutes. During drive gose up. Can you give me advice 🌹🙏.
Likely the second cam bearing or the lifters you put in are leaky from factory. It's easy to check for the lifters being leaky. All you have to do is pull the valve covers and run it. If the oil shoots over the fenders then the lifters have a problem if they hardly leak out of the rockers at all they are good. The second can bearing though should have been checked when you were replacing the cam. Otherwise there's no way to check that really. The only possibility would be with the oil pan and when is dry off then pressurize the oil system with air and see if a bunch of oil and bubbles come out of the second bearing more so than any other rest.
I have two 2010 silverados both had afm lifter failures within a month of each other. Replaced all the lifters in both trucks. Now both pickups are having low oil pressure problems. I have replaced vlom filters and oil pressure switches. Cleaned pcv and all air flow sensors. Sitll low pressure. Sometimes i get the alarm code for the oil pressure switch. Now i am running a thicker oil. Seems to be helping. Does anyone have any advise on what else i can check to get my pressure back up in my trucks?
Thank you for this update. I'm glad to hear the same pump is okay to use. However, for AFM Delete, are we still required to remove the oil pan pressure relief valve and screw a plug in it? I've seen a few vids where folks are doing this.
When my AFM #6 lifter had went south and wasted my cam my oil pressure was still 40+ psi at cruise. I drive a 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3 V8. Fuel mileage is the last thing that I'm worried about.
Yup, that drain hole is very small and plugs. What I understood about the relief valve in the pan is that it creates more oil mist or oil vapor suspended in the air that is sucked out through the pcv. This probably goes back to having some air in the line if that's the case. Seems like a symptom repair rather than repairing the problem.
Very good point, if it's is a vapor it could very well go out the pcv but like you say if it's due to air it definitely needs a proper fix not a little shield thingy lol.
got a 2002 Tahoe with 297K, has 45psi idling and over 60psi going down the road. Original motor, transmission and axles. Thankful that I do not have the AFM feature. Only replaced the fuel pump at 200k and rebuilt front end this year. Yes she has the vor tec rattle when you cold start the first time of the day. And she's like a old Harley it marks it's spot from time to time. Good gas mileage what is that? I love my Tahoe period but miss a truck. Trailering everything is a pain sometimes.
I have an 07 that i put 280k on. The only mods i have are it’s tuned. The afm was tuned out as well but I’m on an all factory stock driveline. I’ve luckily enough had not a single major failure yet so if she makes it to 300k I’m pulling the motor and doing a full, minor performance rebuild and treating my baby to a spa day lol.
Hey man great channel you have, I just completed the DOD delete on my 08 Yukon 5.3 but it’s burning oil really bad now. I’m not sure what the issue could be
The thing that you are missing is that the standard volume this put out in an LS motor by any of the oil pumps is more than enough volume. If you want tire pressure, pick up a few washers and Shem the spring in the standard volume well pump. There is more than enough volume that that oil pump provides. It is a little bit light on the pressure. As soon as you have about 60 to 70 lb of oil pressure at Peak you have more than enough volume and more than enough pressure to handle anything that you should run into on the street.
First, you share a lot of great information and I have used your help several times while repairing GM LS engines. Thank You. Your comment about the Oil squirters you mentioned existing in some engines and indicating the GM deflector is not needed is not necessarily true. Oil Squirters are in almost all HD Diesel engines and some automotive gasoline and diesel turbo engines. Oil Squirters are there to cool the piston head, not the cylinder wall. Spraying oil to the piston head pulls heat off the piston head and allows these pistons to last longer by running cooler. IF the oil squirter was bent and sprayed the cylinder wall rather than the piston head the piston rings would be overwhelmed by that oil and you would burn excess oil. There is one squirter for each piston and they are specifically aimed at the piston head not the cylinder wall. Cylinder walls are lubricated by the throw off of oil from the connecting rod bearings. Running loose connecting rod clearance, usually above .003 clearance will throw so much oil at the cylinder wall that the rings can't handle it and it will cause excess oil consumption, most modern engines hold the connecting rod bearing clearance to .0015 -.002 today to help control oil consumption. Spraying the piston head cools that piston and the oil drips back down into the pan, of course some can get into the oil ring but you will notice on pistons designed to run with Oil Squirters the piston is designed to divert that oil where it is needed to not overwhelm the rings. Some Diesel applications have chambers built into the piston crown, the oil spray is supposed to hit a hole in the piston that allows oil to fill that chamber and drain out the opposite side of the piston, constant flow to pull out heat, again this is to cool the piston crown. Some of the diesel applications run as much as 50 PSI of turbo boost and this type cooling is necessary to keep them alive. These same applications are designed to run as much as 1,000,000 miles before overhaul. Cummins ISX engines is an example. That is a lot of reading to say, GM might have a very good idea adding the deflector in the LS Oil pan. IF the relief valve was spraying oil in a manner that hits the cylinder wall that can cause oil consumption. Hard working engines needed the oil squirters to help cool while under high loads for extended periods. Automotive gasoline applications usually do not use the squirters, I worked for and know Piston and Piston Ring Engineers that build OEM pistons and rings for Performance, Diesel and Gasoline engines. Just sharing what they taught me over 30 years. Hope it helps.
Glad to see someone else willing to share knowledge with others. My saying it's not the issue and gm is a fool goes deeper then the basics I explained. For example, there is also a windage tray above that relief valve. Also the plugs aren't fouling out like crazy. I can guarantee if it was squirting at one cylinder or even 2 cylinders, it would foul out plugs with how much it consumes. These engines tend to consume one to two quarts within a 1k miles when they have the issue. Almost all Japanese and German automotive cars are equipped with oil squirters in today's engines, even most of the domestics are. GM is the only one that hasn't done this much yet at this point. Since you have the knowledge you do, I invite you to the forum on my website. I'm going to need people with some knowledge that are willing to respect others like you have. It's new so there's not many people there yet.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks, I did not intend to be negative, only to share. You helped me with my first AFM delete and it turned out perfect. Recently I have been replacing AFM parts with all stock parts because of a warning that in California they are starting to look for modified ECM's in cars at smog checks. The AFM delete may be caught in this type inspection. I don't know of any being caught but I know performance shops here that install modified engines and they are very nervous about this issue so I am trying to avoid any potential legal action. The AFM delete engines run great, if there is a MPG difference it is small, the engines run really well with the AFM deleted. I am doing a 6.2L repair now so I was looking for information when I found your video above. Glad to check in but I am not the engineer so all my information is second hand but direct from the guys that did the engineering and I am now 8 years out of that industry so my information is getting dated.
@@mrmcd5728 yeah I have learned way more about these systems then one should have learned at this point lol. If you are keeping the afm systems just be sure to address the oil pressure issue. In case you don't know. The entire reason the lifters get stuck, is because there is too low of oil pressure during activation. This intern causes the locking paws to bind due to timing events happening faster than the lifter locks can fully disengage.
Actually it's wrong to go away from a hv pump, as the engine gets old and just doing maintenance it's best to have a hv pump,now with racing reving beyond 6000 rpm its suggested to have a hv-hp pump. I suggest switching oil pump when changing timing chain/ gear, just as replacing knock sensors and oil pressure switch when intake is pulled.
Chevrolet engine with AFM system oil pump same in engine without AFM system. If changeable if fit oil pump not AFM to AFM engine it will work or cause damage.
I’m replacing my stock oil pump (149,000 miles) with a Melling M365HV. 1. I hope I chose the right pump for replacement and. 2. Can you advise me on what pump bypass spring to use? Installed spring is standard presssure, but there is a +20% spring and a -10% spring that can be added. I have adequate start up oil pressure presently with 10W-30 weight oil (50 psi), but at hot idle I have just over 21 to 22 psi. Recently had all lifters and cam replaced. I put new left updated valve cover, new oil pickup tube o-ring, new oil pan AFM pressure relief valve with shield and had the top end cleaned with a GM product per their TSB on oil consumption. I also run the Range AFM blocker. Thanks for any help on the oil pump. Love your site info on GMs AFM.
Since you still have AFM just using disabler I would go with the 20% more because your engine is obviously getting worn out and has bigger tolerance then it should. You want a hot idle goal of 35-40psi
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Thanks for that info, I was concerned about 35psi being too low on a L76 6.0 truck i recently acquired, an 08 w 100k, it seemed low to me, I bought it with 0psi showing on the gauge (and annoying dinging) and #1 misfire code. i pounded on it for a 20 mile test drive and it didn't blow, then drove it 90 miles home. Oil pressure reading was solved by replacing screen under sender and is 35 on hot idle, and the misfire was the plug wire wasn't fully seated(or maybe afm working after it got pressure to the VLOM?), I bought it on the assumption and price it need major work. I did the 100k service and love the truck I bought cheap. Tuned AFM off Thanks for sharing your knowledge of these engines, I have learned a lot from you!
Got a ? For you just had a full DOD delete new cam lifters , springs, timing chain ,gears all seals gaskets ,oil pump etc when I picked it up I noticed the oil pressure was lower but I thought it was normal with a lower pressure pump. Now that I have driven it 150 miles it has good pressure 40 lbs for the first 5 minutes then after that it goes down and it seams like the oil pressure gauge is reacting slowly with rpm and it was tuned for the rvcam after I drove it home 30 miles . The tuner said it must have ran because of the previous DOD turn off and the tune do you have any ideas what I should do the builder said change the oil and get ride of the a/c delco filter and if that’s not it change the oil pressure sensor and sensor filter . Anything else you can think of and I did get a check engine light after driving on the highway at for the most part low rpm I was trying to see if the mpg was better the light has not came on since, that’s about the whole thing any help would be much appreciated
Down to 20 lbs at idle then about 35 lbs on the highway at 60-65 mph and the engine seems to warm up much faster than before, but I could be wrong about that wasn’t paying so much attention to the gauges before all this BS
I have a 2012 GMC YUKON XL 5.3L lc9 and I’ve done the vlod modification, I have no stuck lifters, and tune complete. I put a new oem o ring on the pick up tube and I put a new oem oil pump, I also modified the new pump and added 4 5mm washers under the pressure spring to increase the pressure at idle but I was wondering can I bypass oil pressure relief valve in my oil pan with the cap they sell at saccitycorvete too or is that not ok? Please let me know. Thanks again,
There is no need to add washers to increase pressure in an engine with a volume problem. If your pressure is low it's likely the second cam bearing leaking out the volume so it can't maintain good pressure. The pump only has a finite amount of volume.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair So all of these modifications I mentioned above are just now being completed before I put the new pump in. I added the washers just for the bit of extra pressure. The pressure I currently have is good. In the morning when I first start it up, the pressure is at 60 psi, then when it warms up and reaches idle it’s stays around 40 psi maybe a little under but then as soon as I accelerate, it goes back up to 40 and over. I did all of this modifications because I want to be over 40 psi at idle and I want to prevent any future problems. If you have any other recommendations while I’m working in here please shoot them my way, I greatly appreciate your help and your videos are the shitttttttt!!!!! So can I use the plug I mentioned in the oil pan for the relief valve?
I have an 08 Suburban 5.3 VIN 3, 100k miles. I installed the Range AFM Disabler but it seems like oil is still being consumed excessively. Will replacing the original valve cover with an updated one and doing the lifters stop the oil consumption or reduce it?
So my ls4 is a 06 Pontiac grand prix gxp and I'm doing a DoD delete but I'm wondering about changing the oil pump since the pick up tube o ring fails a lot!!!
Slightly deviating from your topic, do you know if deleting the AFM / DoD with a software reprogramming will cause a failed emissions test? Not having any oil consumption problems YET! Thank You.
Hey man I have really learned a lot through watching your video I’ve got a 2007 Tahoe that I’m planning on doing a full delete of the AFM/DOD but I can’t find a good kit anywhere can you send me a link to a solid kit? If there is any way I could contact that would be great I have some other questions I’d like to discuss with you
HI I have a 2011 1500 Suburban, I had the frozen lifter issue. Engine was warranty repaired (third party warranty) The bad lifter and Head gasket was replaced, I also had the oil pan and the oil pan return tube replaced, along with three oil pressure sensors. I still have low oil pressure after the engine is warm ( cold engine equals plenty of pressure). I dont remember I think i was getting the engine code P0523. I cant find my bluetooth OBD 2 scanner, I have to buy a new one. I am about to replace the oil pump, any ideas on this issue? Thanks
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Oil pressure when the truck is hot at idle is usually around 10 PSI when accelerating it will push a little past 20PSI. Engine does not knock or rattle.
Crazedpreformance the 2010 have the 3 bolt phaser in the timing cover is that correct I have never had 1 apart done several lifters couple rebuilds but I was unaware that was added in 2010.
The vvt phaser style is a single tq to yield fastener not 3. The 3 bolt is only in the older non vvt or the aftermarket performance cams. It's an optional component in the early models it seems. It can be deleted if so desired and a 3 bolt system can be installed. It requires cam and timing cover change with the tune though.
I acctully putting it all back stock trying to find torque specs on that Vvt cam bolt. This 1st 1 I've been this deep in with that timing set up. It broke a timing guide. It sounded like a lifter at 1st and then sounded like it was deeper so I pulled it vs just putting lifters n pick up tube ect. An I found raddling was a timing guide. Everything else looks ok,OK, I can't find torque spec for that vvt cam bolt for the new replacement bolt.
Do you recommend adding an oil catch can to the 5.3L and do you have an opinion on the modification to the PCV connector enlarging the holes on the end that sits in the valve cover? If we should have a catch can, do you have one you'd recommend for a '12 Silverado 5.3L?
I don't unless you run e85 or have a power adder. Catch cans are intended to catch moisture but they will also catch oil. Best solution is to fix the actual issue for any oil consumption. A guy could specially engineer a oil catch and drain adapter for the pcv oil port that drains back into the engine to prevent the oil from get to the intake. I feel it might be Overkill though.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I use a coalescing filter as a catch can. Works great. I wouldn't dump it back into the crankcase though as it is mostly water during winter or high humidity and blow by with some fuel and burned oil. Plus the oil loss is minimal if the valve cover drain and baffles are clean as stated.
Just prurchased a used engine with 100k. Vin code J. My engine still runs but has a failed lifter. Which i am going to rebuild while i use this 100k motor. Im going to install new gaskets and install a hi volume oil pump. Do you think disabling the afm system will have this motor good for sometime? Or does it really come down to having to install the delete kit?
As long as you get your lifters working correctly It will be okay. I would still turn the system off but make your oil pressure goal 35-40psi hot idle.
I know this is a bit off topic but can the oil relief valve in the pan on LS engines , be plugged off ? The valve right above the oil filter inside the pan to be specific !
So I'd like to use the range disabler on my 2007 impala SS stock. Ive heard people talk about the oil pressure release deflector to keep the oil from squirting in too much. So the myth your talking about. So is it safe to use a range afm disabler in a stock ss plug amd play? Do I need to modify anything before using the range? I read my 2007 does not have the oil deflector? So is this an issue?
Any GM wrench heads out there to help me make a good decision on possibly purchasing a 2005 Denali Envoy XLT with AWD system. I wanted to know if the 5.3ltr any more reliable or maintenance friendly as the 4.3ltr inline 6 is? I have a 2003 Envoy XLT with the 4.3 & it's got over 287,000 with no major issues except cam position sensor & upper intake gasket leak other than that she's great! Getting a second vehicle because of age of my 03' Voy & the Denali is in better visual shape inside & out. Any recommendations/opinions gladly Appreciated!!!!
I just replaced my 235,000 mile 5.3 afm motor with a remanufactured motor from GM. I’ve got less than 1k miles on it. If I use a Range afm Disabler, will this help me prevent afm lifter problems in the future? Any advice is much appreciated.
So I did the dod delete new cam lifters, vlom, of course all the gaskets, and pick up tube o ring. It runs beautifully and quiet but now my oil pressure is non existent after it warms up. Any ideas? What about the pressure relief valve in the pan should I remove, replace or block?
Im having the same problem my oil pressure used to be fine before dod delete now it drops to 10 psi at hot idle already pluged oil pan relief valve replaced oil barbell replaced pick up oring replaced pump even plugged relief valve on pump oil towers are plugged with rivvets i even replaced cam bearings when they seemed to be good my pressure still the same when cold goes up to 60 once its hot it drops to 10 psi any help will be appreciated thanks
I did a dod delete, Heads and cam swap on my 09 yukon and i have the 10296 pump but my pressure is 40psi warm idle and 82psi at 4k revving it. It has not been tuned yet so i wont know what psi is at wot till thats done but whats the max psi you reccomend? I did swap out the red spring with blue spring in oil pump. I also plugged the valve in oil pan as tsp reccomend when doing dod delete. I really dont want to buy another pump but i dont want to blow out crank seals either.
Depends on a ton of variables. Basically it could range from about $3k-$7k assuming engine is still in truck. Shop rates and mark up can make a huge difference. I typically run around $4500 and that includes pulling the pan to replace chain.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok thanks .your videos have a lot of good information and how you explain what you are doing an why its good stuff keep up 👍👍👍
I have an '05 Trailblazer with the 5.3 and it recently lost oil pressure at idle. Lifters make a little ticking when at idle, but if you give it a little gas, the pressure comes right back up and the motor runs and sounds normal. I'm thinking that the pickup tube o-ring is shot and it's sucking air at idle, but I'm trying to consider if replacing the oil pump would be a good idea also... I haven't torn it down yet, but curious what you would think in that scenario. While I'd like to do the DOD/AFM delete in the future, I'm not quite ready to do it now. I just want to get it back to being driveable for the time being. Thanks!
Could be the o ring or the camshaft thrust plate just pulled mine off and the gasket is burned out so you lose pressure from there too if its sucking air
