In Los Angeles, it is against code to use Teflon tape on gas joints, you are only supposed to use dope. It is to prevent chunks of Teflon from getting in the pipe and reaching gas fixtures, and blocking the small orifices on them, like pilot lights. Is Teflon code where you work?
When I was a teen and had just started helping my dad on sites he said to check for gas leaks smoke a cigarette. I asked him how does that work. He said If you live you did a good job 😁 I miss that old man.
Those meters wouldn't be legal here, they must be at the side of the house.. Thats just plain nuts having them out by the roadway especially without big concrete filled protection rails..
I'm more interested in the fact someone hit that already. No one thought to put protection around it and also how long was that pipe line live and leaking before it got "Fixed" lol
I love how you're always talking about how important it is to turn the water off, no matter what, then go and do a live gas line replacement like this.
It may look and sound strange, but there's only about a 1/4 lb of pressure going through a residential main like this. JUST MAKE SURE NO ONE IS SMOKING LOL.
@@morphman86 You only get CO poisoning from poorly burning gas. While you can do what he did since the pressure is around 7 inches wc or barely over 1/4 psi, it's better to just have the gas company come out and turn it off properly.
@@tcolondovich2996 Oh, sorry, I didn't know hydroCARBON gas didn't contain CARBON that would bind with OXYGEN when exposed to OXYGEN-rich air... Silly of me.
Surprised the home owner did not install protection, independently of what a bunch of bureoucrats think people should do, and why Mr. Wakefield agreed to do the job without also putting in protection!
@@LPJMagicmusic I did not blame anybody, but it is also true that Mr. Wakefield did not address the evident lack of safety of the meter in this video, regardless to what the local authorities mandate in their jurisdiction.
@@AlessioSangalli he may not have addressed it to us but you have no idea whether he talked to the customer about it or not. My guess is It's not the plumbers job to install barriers, it's a plumbing channel so he doesn't need to tell you something obvious that you very intelligently noticed.
Roger, nice video but I'd like to go over some of the shortcomings I noticed, just to give the plumbers and pipefitters out there a perspective from the gas utility side and the National Fuel Gas Code. My name is Bob Yehlen and I've been a first responder /gas fitter for the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri for 35 years. I am presently retired but still consult for the gas industry from time to time when incidents occur throughout the country ( incidents like the over pressurized gas mains in Massachusetts, the mall gas explosion in Florida & ect.). So now let's go over the things I noticed on this particular video. #1 before making a repair to any fuel run let's determine if the original installation was up to past and present codes ( is the fuel run sized properly? What is the total gas load, house and pool heater? This particular meter set has a b-42 regulator and a 275 CFH (275,000 BTUs) gas meter on inchs delivery. So if the total load is over 275,000 BTUs, the gas utility should be contacted for a gas meter upgrade) #2 the pool heater fuel run came off the gas company pressure tap tee ( the gas company uses this tee to determine lock up and working gas pressures; this is not a tee for your pool heater fuel run), that being said you may use it as long as another tee is added. This is done very simply by replacing one of your elbow at the meter set with a tee & plug ( now a tap is available for the gas company to take pressures and you can also pressure test your underground fuel run using the same pressure tap tee, just by hooking up your manometer, turn the valve on and back off, now you have a pressure test going). #3 jumping a live fuel run is very old school & is no longer acceptable by the National Fuel Gas Code & the AGA ( American Gas Association). The proper procedure would be to turn the gas off at the meter, install your required fittings for the job and pressure test the complete system. I know it seems like a waste of time and opening you up to much more repairs if problems are indicated on the other fuel runs but that is what's required in this day and age ( believe me, there are a lot of law firms out there hoping you don't pressure test and bypass required procedures).#4 a ground joint union is not acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers ( only insulated unions are acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers, this is required for cathodic protection). #5 all underground fuel runs should have a trace wire or a means to locate the underground installation. Since this is a repair & the original installation had no means of locating the line, this should be noted on your receipt and your records. I hope some of this information was helpful. I know some of you will say that my local municipality or state does not require this,but these are the National Fuel Gas Codes, states and municipalities can enhance and make codes more stringent but in no way are they allowed to weaken or reduce the National Fuel Gas Code. You all stay safe out there and have a good day .
Find the tape measure...go look for the pencil...where's the damn drill...I know I got the impact gun out earlier...Fitbit thinks I'm walking marathons.
About 6 years ago, I was chasing a bunch of tiny leaks in 100 year old gas pipes. I called Oatey up, they recommended Hercules dope with kevlar fibers instead of their own name brand. At that time, I think they had recently purchased Hercules, so not quite like recommending their competitor. The kevlar makes the dope stiff, definitely does not flow like other dope. I ran taps and dies on the old threads to removed all the old dried junk before reassembly. I tested the old system at 100 psi for 3 days, no leaks.
In New Jersey Teflon tape is not allowed on gas piping unless it is the yellow tape That's rated for gas. If it was hit by a car it also requires a pressure test and inspection. So that you can check if line underneath ground is damaged in any way
@@jamesallen3739 Blue Monster "Gas Guard" yellow tape is the only Blue Monster tape approved as per International Fuel and Gas Code.. But I guess local jurisdictions have final say.....
@@guitar1301 , you are correct, even though the Blue Monster blue tape can meet the standards for gas, once it's installed we have no idea. That is why Yellow Tape is required by the National Fuel Gas Code and The American Gas Association. Local codes maybe more stringent and strict but in no way can they weaken The National Fuel Gas Code.
This is a man who truly loves what he does. He’s out here working when he really doesn’t have to, but he does to show us up and coming young guys how to do things the right way. Thank you for your videos sir.
I have worked in offshore and onshore oil and gas industry. Offshore Teflon tape is prohibited for certain systems due to its uncanny ability to send little shards into the subsea directional control valves. Onshore, the pipe work is made up with hdpe tape (the blue stuff) and no pipe dope. Torque used is TAF...usually a roughneck with a cheater pipe on a 4ft pipe wrench. Never had issues.
Yeah don't use tape on joints. Most states it's against code to use tape. Dope only and if.your worried about a joint use wicking. The moisture from the dope will make it swell and seal up the joint.
I spent my first 7 years as an adult working as an industrial tech in the fishing industry, one of the things I was shoehorned into as a young guy was plumbing and I don't even know how many miles of pipe I laid across the 4 plants I worked in, but it's nice to see someone else who does dope and tape for things like this. We were trained to do that for all gas lines, whether the gas was air, a combustible, or steam, and I can't think of any lines that I worked on that developed leaks (and with the relationships I have with my old chiefs, they would give me a lot of grief if they had to redo my work. 5 years out of the industry and I still get updates on projects I worked on) Please note, I am not a plumber. Welder, boiler tech, fabricator, and mechanic yes to some degree, but plumbing was just one of the jobs I got put on a lot between production runs to keep me on payroll. Keep up the good work Roger! I found you recently and have been directing customers who are struggling with plumbing to your channel!
If you want your dies to stay sharp on that threader, you need to back up a quarter turn every full rotation to break the chipping from the cutter threads. This is common when threading almost any hard material.
It's refreshing to see someone who takes pride in their work for once. Going so far as to wipe the extra pipe dope off... I don't think I've ever seen that.
Plumbers that teach me would get mad and say that’s way too much. Just enough to cover where you plan on sinking the threads. It’s predictable enough and super clean. Just how I was taught. 🤷♂️
Gas company here requires an accessible tee on the outlet to “hot tank” the house line to work on the meter set. And certainly meter protection is a must.
Key point “always back up your fittings with another pipe wrench before fully tightening your pipe so that the prior fitting or pipe does not spin on you causing a leak.
I love your videos! Im not a plumber, but im learning a lot! My favorite tool is the M18 Fuel deep cut Portable Bandsaw! I've been building fences for over a decade, and this tool can handle a lot of what the portacable corded bandsaw can. For volume, a battery will always fall short of what a corded tool can accomplish, but cut for cut, it always does a great job!! Its spectacular for small jobs, with less than an hour of consecutive cutting. More than that, i just use another battery. If i had to give up every fence tool I own, the tool I would trade my left foot to keep, would be my milwaukee bandsaw. It cuts anything I imagine a plumber would need to cut, if you've got the space to do it!! I've cut aluminum, stainless, galvanized steel, carbon, hardened steel, copper, pvc, plastic, wood 4x4s, and a block of 2" by 2" solid square stock. Just don't cut rusty stuff. That eats up the blade. The tool doesn't care, but the blades do. Highly recommend, 20/10 stars.
We do liquid and high pressure vapor propane piping. Yes, we always use tape and dope. We're mostly using Sch. 80 A53 grade B with SA105N forged steel fittings. The TRC is real specific on some of the points in NFPA 58.
With small size pipes it may work fine, but from my experience on a job with 3 inch galvanize pipe I got leaks in almost every fitting and had to do it again with paste only.
I really like watching this channel. I worked in Ma as a plumber. He did a decent job. Comparing how I was taught, you ALWAYS use two wrenches. 3 wraps with the tape start at pipe then to end. Don’t over tighten them. They tapered like a pencil and it can expand and crack the fitting reason for two wrenches. Never loosen a fitting, it could break the seal of the tape and dope. If you do, in do it and reapply tape and dope. I never saw you test with bubbles. I’ll give half credit for not having an oil pan or opening the box more because you got down and wiped up the oil 👍🏻👍🏻. **first time I’ve ever saw any differences in any videos I’ve seen so far** Still a great plumber.
I was mowing a big 4 acre field one time.. was hired by a dude and all he said was “i want it bailed for the horses.. the stuff was weeds galore about 4 foot tall:. Right smack im the middle of the field was a damn gas line check with the 2 foor pipe that sticks outta the ground that says no smoking.. well i ran that thing over. Got lucky and didnt blow my ass off but i didnt even noticezc i thought it was like a rock or possum or something until i go to roll the bail off and see the white pole in the bail... so i drove up to ole buddy and told him to call the gas company and i just left. Never talked to him again.. lol
@@alexpuffinburger9015 the dialogue must've been. Well cars reasonabley wont be on a road! that's why we have roads right? its not like anyone's ever going to be regularly driving down a road!
The amount of respect I have for you not just doing it to spec but doing it so It doesn’t leak again (you don’t have to do it again) is amazing, Love the content
When we have Gas risers in Canada, we require a minimum of 4 90's on the riser to create a swing joint so if the ground has a frost heave it dosent break the line.
@@joea5183 Sure, but earth movement can still occur can it not? I've also seen a gas line get backed into and not break because of a swing joint. I was more so curious about his local code.
DYI here. Nice to watch the pros at work. Chatter about opening the gas pipe under pressure--I watched the gas company guy replace the regulator at my folks house--they needed larger service for a spa heater and a new gas stove. And part of that job was replacing the valve on the service side of the regulator. indeed there was a moment where the gas just flowed--but only a moment, because he too had everything lined up and ready to go. I seem to remember this clever little rig that plugged the service pipe with a expandable stopper that, unexpanded, could be pushed through the open valve, and a rod that came up through the bleed valve? Sorry, this was years ago, I don't quite remember how it all worked. One thing I do remember, brought to mind by all the rust visible here, was a couple of coats of that gray anti-corrosion paint you can see on the meter. Did the riser going to the pool heater eventually get painted? Finally: I remember once slipping a section of PVC over a gas riser (house side of the regulator, valve off) to protect the riser from weed-cutter line, which had over the years eaten almost all the way through the riser (that was why I was replacing it). Is there a reason why you didn't do that here? Was I wrong to have done it? (Yeah, looking back, should have called a pro for that job. But I was a young and foolish know it all, and I at least read up pretty thoroughly on working with gas, so I wasn't working blind. Harris County, TX, jurisdiction.)
The water line into my house broke when I tried to replace the shutoff valve (26-year-old double-wide trailer that had been empty for 7 years) and I tried to thread the galvanized pipe coming out of the ground. My brother-in-law has a manual threader that worked okay, but I would have LOVED to have that tool. It probably wouldn't have split the line down into the ground and broke the pipe off at the elbow if I had. On the other hand, even though I had to dig up that whole section and replace it, at least I know it's got a brand new line all the way from the PVC water supply from the meter. I'm slowly replacing all the Poly water lines in the house with PEX. I need to get a tool that crimps rings with 1 hand. I just don't trust Sharkbites. I'll use them if it's in a place where I just can't get my crimping tool but, to me, I'd rather save the money and put a little more effort into the connections. I've seen the tests with pressurized water and I know the pressure fittings work fine, but I guess I'm just too old school (and too cheap).
I have many memories (and shoulder aches) from carrying and using an ancient ridgid 700 threader. Outside of the weight of it, seeing the new shiny threads on galvanized or black pipe was always satisfying. Enjoyed the ride-along! Keep up the good work!
I don't think it's age, but rather the way Roger explains things. He knows his things and explains them well, without overselling (or underselling) his craft. That is what makes these videos compelling (at least to me).
I've gone to plenty of callbacks on leaks where plumbers didn't use both teflon tape and pipe dope. I've also worked on gas lines on the fly. Good work!
I don't feel so bad now about the pipe thread/pipe dope method, thanks! I've had folks snicker at me for "overdoing it". When it comes to gas, I don't take any chances.
I work for a gas utility company in the northeast . It blows my mind that gas meters are in the front yard... ours is in the basement or on side of house .
I’m sort of a mix between the first and the last. If I need to put one fitting on a live gas line, I’ll do it without shutting off the gas. However I don’t bother trying to cover up the pipe or anything like that. I just get everything ready then screw the piece out and put the other one in. If some gas goes into the air, oh well.
I hope there is NEVER anything gonna happen if you leave on the gas line, Cause no insurance will pay... I mean why would you rather turn it off most of the time there is no one at home. I think to be safe is more important than not need to turn off the gas.
Cillers badass if you know what you’re doing there’s no risk. It’s not as big of a deal nowadays with all the electronic ignitions. However at one time, if you turned the gas off it cost you an hour or more to relight all the pilots in the house. Therefore if you had to make one connection it saved the customer to work on it without killing the gas.
How do you pressure test the new joints for leaks without turning off the gass or isn't pressure testing an installation a requirement in Texas? Also "it's okay 'cause I don't smoke" seems a rather deceptive statement with cars driving by at a few feet from the open pipe. I must be missing something here.
I had to plumb a whole Factory which was stainless steel piping and fittings and you learn real quick that you put your pipe dope on your threads first and then put your tape over top and then tighten down and you have no leaks and it's clean
The company I work for we do a lot of commercial pipefitting including stainless work and they do the exact same thing. However, we utilize other materials in aspects of pipefitting and I believe the process you described is only correct for stainless work otherwise, teflon tape should be applied (correctly) first THEN pipe dope. But hey everywhere is so crazy and different as long as it had pressure or doesn't leak isn't that all that matters
Another great job... Rodger, I also use Teflon tape and pipe dope together on pcvp female threat fittings to connect male brass threads on shower valves... I only go hand tight, but never had a leak doing it that way... Thank you again,,,,
Pro-tip: i use pipe thread sealant on pipe threads, then teflon tape. this leaves your fingers clean, and the pipe dope enters the joint as you tighten the fitting through the tape: Love the vids roger!
Roger , try the pipe treading lube that Ridgid sells. It comes in a spray can and it works great without the mess you get from cutting oil. Our threads come out beautiful with it.
I had a water heater installed by a plumber who used pipe dope and teflon tape. This was the first time I had heard of that but I've been using that method since and never had a leak 👍👍👍👍👍
Being a pipefitter/welder here at TI i use that same process on gas and then i switch to true blue or SWAK on water . gotta make a repair on the new house im buying but its not at the meter its on the side of the house going from the ground into the house. good job and very informative.
I use the dope/tape combo on any threaded connections so far as water lines are concerned. But on gas lines most codes don't allow Teflon to be used as a sealant, even the dope is required to be non-ptfe. Another thing I'll mention for anyone watching that's considering adopting the practice, be careful you don't Crack your fittings! Especially these brittle "lead free" brass parts.
I though that as well. I think the only reason he was doing it that way is he was by himself and trying to catch the oil in the rag. I guess it’s fine if you don’t mind replacing teeth once a year.
Fast Christ that was A 5 minute job. Wrapping 7 times with Teflon completely covered the threads plus some pipe. Got oil all over the cement. I would have ripped my guys a new one threading with nothing under to catch oil. Should tell home owner a bollard needs to be installed to protect meter from being hit by cars
I am an IT Network Administrator. Why am I watching your videos non-stop? Glad I found your channel. Oh, and that is a bad-ass watch you wear. What is it?
Seems like a massive safely hazzard to have an exposed gas mains next to a road with 0 protection around it, hell put a crappy picket fence around it at least!
his surroundings are clear, im sure if there was any cause of danger he would know of it, considering he is properly certified and has decades of experience like working for texas instruments. it was open for literally .5 seconds
Hey Roger. I am a nyc plumber and I was taught to never use Teflon tap on gas. In fact. It is not allowed by NYC code. Honestly I don’t know why that is. But I love using my ridgid 700 pony with the ridgid support arm to hold back the threader and the same vise. But I like that Milwaukee makes a battery operated threader. No more extension chords
Hey Roger, its Shaun again. We've had a comment conversation before over another of your videos. Im a plumber and licenced gasfitter here in Saskatchewan, Canada. Again, great video. Its crazy to see the differences in gas code from place to place. Here in Saskatchewan, you'll never see a meter hung like that. Our meters are either mounted to the house , or we have what we call trailer stands, which, if a meter cannot be bolted to a fixed-foundation house, are used. They sit at about 4' above ground. Few other things, we aren't allowed the use of galvanized piping for anything in plumbing, other than rural waterlines. Everything i do gets painted grey, or yellow in a commercial application. A lot of cheap guys in town here just leave the black Iron to rust, which looks like absolute garbage. We have to have riser sleeves around any gas riser coming out of the ground, with 14gauge tracer wire, and 4-elbow, 10" center to center swing joints. Its crazy for me to see that piping out of the ground with no swing joint! As for the "teflon" and dope....i was trained with just dope. My journeyman was old school and it wasn't until I was doing a 12 unit condo building in my third year of apprenticeship that I requested "teflon". Our tape for gas is yellow and its a PTFE thread tape. But yeah, tape the threads and then dope. Doesn't matter if it's gas or water. Always tape then dope. Its a different feel than just dope. Last thing to harass ya about is the m18 threader. It only became available last year and ive been toying with notion of purchasing one. I've always lugged around my ridgid 300, and I have an auto-oiler at my shop. The only hand threader that I have is the ratchet style hand lever, which has been good for taking out on location for small works. Im going to assume that youd recommend it? Haha
Thanks again Shaun. Around here this is the normal. There are a million things that I think should be done in all of plumbing but if I did all of them and nobody else was I would be going out of business. I started using tape and dope when one of the smartest engineers I ever met told me that was the way he wanted it done. You're right, I really like the M18. I've used the 300 for a long time and the ratchet threaders have been in my vans forever. BTW, We quit using galvanized for waterlines many years ago.
On an outside installation of a gas meter if its not up against the side of a house or if its within certain distance from a road , driveway or anywhere it can be hit needs to have concrete pilings here in New jersey... I know of an old lady who hit the gas instead of the brake on her car and ended up going around the back of the building and hitting allof the gas meters for the building . Luckily there was no fire or other damage. Any exposed black malleable steel pipe must be painted in order to prevent rust. We use galvanized outside
1301, I am from Missouri and just like New Jersey we adhere to the National Fuel Gas Code. The problem is a lot of people out there ( plumbers, pipefitters, contractors, h v a c technicians & ect ) think the only codes they need to adhere to, are municipality or state codes; and that is fine until an incident occurs and there is a lawsuit filed. Then these very people find out the hard way that their state is in the United States and the trial attorney sets down on the deposition table, the local code book, the state code book, the national fuel code book and the GAMA ( gas appliance manufacturers association) standards manual.
I never use any tape on any gas line connection and actually illegal in my state. For a number of reasons number one why I don’t use it is because while threading steel pipe your dies teeth wear down... gotta replace them. Instead of replacing them let’s add tap. Fresh cut pipe threads should screw to the female end idk 2 turns if even. With new pipe die. A lot of mechanical contractors when it comes to gas lines they use a lot of tape ... to rebuild the thread up for there blown out die...
I like your vids, I am a sprinkler fitter of 35 years , But i'm always learning something, we as sprinkler fitters always use the dope first then cover with teflon tape, But that is only because we are laying out one hundred heads, 3 - 4 piece heads or more for the T.I. of the high rise floor that we are currently working on, But the teflon tape before the dope or paste does work better especially on bigger pipe diameters. just my 10 cents worth. Thanks, keep the vids coming.
Please don’t add much pipe dope to the beginning threads, you’d be surprised how many gas valves get clogged from pipe dope and had to be replaced 🤦🏽♂️
@@chrisd3399 ... I do a LOT of generator work and you'd be amazed at how often I find pipe dope in the works within the gen set when it doesn't start on the first try after an install. I won't say it's often but once a year (in my 25 years) is often enough to know where to place the blame. In cases where I needed to check pressure on an older install and there was no test fitting I have used the sediment leg, where I also run into some goo balls left over from the original installation. Just saying it's more common that you think, even if they never actually cause a problem.
This is how I was taught. You drive any fitting down much easier and more efficient with dope lubed teflon setup. Usually i just use dope only good for LP gas and drive it down. All depends on city code. They both work good. Even better together
I'm glad im not the only one who uses both teflon and dope, I've had a few people tell me not to do it and that it will cause a leak but thats the way my dad showed me and I always stuck with it
In the old days before Teflon tape and other stuff. The one item we used on gas pipe in the plant told to me by the old timers and we used and never had a leak was ; permatex no 2 form a gasket. It’s totally resistant to petroleum products, never hardens. It works great , never had a problem.
@@spencerhanson3112 untill it rusts out and leaks yeahh just hope no smoker walks past as it does and hope for no sparks when it rusts out or they'll have a bad explosive time 😅
Seems to me codes are lacking down in Texas. In New Jersey teflon tape is not permitted on gas pipe & all exterior gas piping must be painted with rust proof paint not to mention pressure tested
Why is the meter put in the middle of an driveway in the first place without any protection or a small housing? This belongs mounted on the house or at least in some sort of shed...
I work for a gas utility company in California we are required to protect the meter either with a meter guard or Ballards customer doesn't pay for anything its part of our responsibility.
40 years ago an old journeyman showed me the teflon tape and pipe dope trick. He pointed out the Taiwan pipe and fittings and lack of quality control as the main reason for doing so. The other advice was to use galvanized fittings for gas lines to avoid sand holes that the black foreign fittings sometimes had.
If you use galvanized fittings for gas you've done so illegally. ( in most places ) also you've joined dis similar metals as galvanized fittings contain zinc which is more noble than black iron, so you INCREASE the chances for pinhole leaking due to electrolysis. In short, you got taught wrong
Wondering if some sort of protection barrier needs to be installed to prevent future car strikes. I know for heating oil tanks were cars can hit it there is a requirement to sink posts or some other solid barrier to prevent it.
Awesome repair! As for the machining oil so you don't spill so much like I saw in this video cause I know you like to keep things clean get yourself like an olive oil dispenser or even an old oil dispenser you can easily direct the oil where it's needed and don't need to drip all over the ground idk if this helps but it definitely makes for less of a mess
I'll agree, Teflon tape and dope is splendid for water connections. But I was always told to avoid tape for gas as it has the potential to flake off and cause a restriction in a burner orifice or gas valve.
Surprised the local gas utility there won't install a barrier at that meter since it's right next to a road. Also interesting to see meters in different areas of the country. Here in SoCal, that spot is usually reserved for a "bypass tee" so future work upstream of that tee can be performed and still provide gas to the property. All branches are usually downstream of the tee coming from the meter.
As a machinist I'd like to point out to people who may not know that the smoke that's coming up while you were cutting the threads is normal; cutting threads into metal generates a lot of heat, and the cutting oil is exactly that, *oil,* so it burns when heated.
Another trick to use is putting Molly paste on the threads and faces of the union. This helps with the seal, and ease of breaking the union apart in the future.
Journeyman I’m working under told me from the get-go to always use Teflon and pipe dope and the client will be happy due to no callbacks for leaks. Since then, we’ve always had happy clients.
Teflon and pipe dope is something oilfield roustabouts learned a long time ago. We also use kopr Kote on the non threaded rounded part in the middle that meet on unions like you were tightening at 16:30 only difference is we’re using hammer unions.
Post completion document you recommended safety steel surround installed to eliminate any future damage to meter. New residentials have these within garage conventional water heaters, car pulls into garage to far, will hit safety steel surround, won't hit existing water heater.
Yes! Always use pipe dope and teflon! I like to put the pipe dope before the teflon because it looks alot cleaner and wont get all over your fingers, but to each is own
We used teflon tape and Pipe dope to repair a 80year old piece of engineering education equipment when re replaced an old pipe, glad to know why we did that now.
Teflon and dope ......always. Your right it was one or the other. I probably started that as common practice mid way in my career which is about 15 years ago. Almost never have a leaky joint. Great info to put out there.
That's a nice threader nothing worse than threading rigid. Usually 3/4 I'll do with the ratcheting threader. The power vice was nice compared to using the adapter for the hand threader to thread 4". As for M18 fuel, the crimpers for sure and the M12 cable cutters.
Love their M18 impacts, the 3/8, 1/2 impact wrenches and 1/4 impact driver. Working on cars they're pretty nice, their reciprocating saw is pretty good too.
I work maintenance in a factory but 50% of my job is pretty much working with piping. My favorite Milwaukee tool I've used so far is their m18 PVC Pipe shear. I think it can cut up to 1.25" pipe, but most of our chiller lines to our machines are 3/4 schedule 80. It makes it super fast and always a clean cut. I have yet to have it bust apart a pipe instead of cutting it.
Never seen a meter right out in the open like that, 'round here they put em right beside the house. In the winter that thing would get covered with snow from clearing the alley/road/driveway it sits next too. Nice watching a pro work though, thanks for bringing us along.
Back when I made the switch from doing electrical work to plumbing (I know big change😂) I wish I would have had someone like you to teach me instead of the assholes that were sending me on wild goose chases. You have taught me a lot in your videos keep em comin man
