Never brush your 3D printer nozzle again with this Nozzle Scrubber & Purge Bucket. 

That is a cool idea. I may try that. I was actually planning on pulling the brush out and flipping it around if it ever wore out doubling the length of time it could be used. Thank you for watching!

Great idea. Why not do an X, a +, and circles both ways?

@@travistucker7317 You can certainly do that and I'll bet you end up with a cleaner nozzle. However, I think my print bed is a little too far back or I've set the starting coordinates a little too tight to the back of the bed for the printer coordinates. I need to pull the bed forward by about 1cm so the print head can fully move over the full brush back to front. I just was not ready to adjust the brush, bed, z-endstop and Euclid mount for that extra distance. So my nozzle only makes use of the 1st row of bristles. However, the next time I make a major change relating to the bed, I will know better. Thank you for watching!

I like the randomness idea. I managed to get it to work like so: variable_shift_y_bound_a: -2 variable_shift_y_bound_b: 0 {% set shift_y = (range(shift_y_bound_a * 10, shift_y_bound_b * 10) | random) / 10 %} G1 X{start_x} Y{start_y + shift_y} F6000 In my case the center of the brush happens to be at the Y home, so that limits the amount I can shift the nozzle, hence the 0 value for variable_shift_y_bound_b. You might be able to use other values if you have more wiggle room.

I'm glad it's working well for you. Thank you for the comments!

Thank you for the kind words and thank you for watching. There will be more coming, just too many up in the air at the moment...

Thank you! And thank you for watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and subscribing!

Actually, that is the plan. This really does not work if the nozzle is not hot enough to melt the filament. I probably should have made that point clear in the video....Thank you for watching!

I'm very happy you find them helpful! Thank you for watching!

Good to know! Thank you for posting!

It's not my idea, but I'm spreading the word. Thank you for watching!

I wish you success. I think it will be very doable. I've been thinking of the same on an old printer of mine. I am considering either the right or left side of the bed as there is space and the print head can be moved there outside of the bed itself. Thanks for watching!

Glad it helped!

You are welcome!

Thanks for the sub and watching! I am planning on installing a filament sensor. My old printer had one and I liked it quite a bit. I think I might move those plans up and install it earlier than planned. This is a good idea, thank you for the suggestion. I'll need a few weeks to get this ready.

Looking forward to the vid!

That's a good idea! But this happens at the start of the print, correct?

Assuming your printer touches it's nozzle against the z-endstop, when you 1st turn on your printer, you will need to home at least once before running this as Klipper will not allow you to do anything else. Once the nozzle is hot, I would run this macro and then home again for a more accurate home. I'm still running this by hand, but this is what I expect to do in the next day or so in the printer.cfg: You should have a start print section like this: [gcode_macro PRINT_START] # Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script - please customize for your slicer of choice gcode: G90 ; use absolute coordinates clean_nozzle ; By now, the nozzle should be hot and lets clean before we home to get the best read G32 ; home all axes calibrate_z ; assuming you have this installed and configured G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed G1 E5.0 F3000 ; move extruder Please note that I have not tested this macro change yet. Based on past experience, personally I like to do these things manually for a little while , before I make these changes. Once I've tested it later this week, I'll go ahead and post an update about how this worked. Thank you for watching and I'm glad you find these useful!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you! I will test it.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Just checking, do you have some updated recommendations for the print_start gcode routine? Thanks for the video!

@@jphalip I'm sorry to say "No", I have no new recommendations. I've decided that I really should do the initial home, QGL and home prior to the brush as if it doesn't, it might miss the brush! That said, have a look in my github just to be sure I have not changed anything.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thank you so much for the tutorial, super stoked to automate this!

That is it. Basically any time you want to clean the nozzle, add it into the macro of choice or enter it from the command line in Mainsail/Fluidd and it should work. When 1st starting up the printer, I would not call it until after you have done a home, QGL(automatic bed leveling, however your printer does that) and a second home. That way you can be sure nothing has gone out of adjustment to make sure you don't end up with a head crash. I'm glad to hear it's working for you and thank you for watching!

Thanks! For 1, I honestly don't know. But I can say I have not scratched the hotend or hotend case. It's been working well. For 2, my apologies if it's not clear in the video, but it does not use the brush until the hotend is at the correct temperature for the filament I am using. So, Yes, it's better! Thank you for the questions , nice words and watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop No worries for the hotend temperature. You should have put it in the code to make it standalone.

I work using the assumption that it stays in the mode I set until something else changes it. Any STL file will set the mode to whatever it needs. I've never had to worry about resetting back to the original printer settings. It's probably a best practice to set the mode at the beginning of any macro you run to avoid any problems.

Thank you. It's certainly not the typical color for a printer, but when I saw it, I could not help myself. The filament is from www.paramount-3d.com and the color is "military green". I also used their white. I love their filament. Some of the other colors are pretty amazing too.

I've noticed that when I installed a replacement brush, it had trouble cleaning. I ended up slightly adjusting the nozzle's position since it appeared to be moving between the brushes instrad of directly through a row. Once I did that, it started cleading agian. Try moving the nozzzle a few mm in the Y and see if it starts to improve.

I am considering this for the next video. Thanks!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Nothing but honest feedback. Your video seemed great, but I had to bail, I couldn’t do the music.

I'm finding this a year later, and 100% agree about the music. Hopefully you've moved away from this in your newer content.

In my case, my bed plate was threaded by the company that built it for this. Assuming you are not interested in replacing your bed and heater, you can add one with the Decontaminator Purge Bucket at github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber as it has one built into the design. Super nice. Thank you for watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Ah, those are part of the bed. I'll have a look at the purge bucket. Thank you!

In my case, they are part of the bed. However, if you choose to install the 1st purge bucket option, it actually provides you with a bed stop. It's this one: Decontaminator: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber

You can certainly do so. You can also place it in your g32 macro: [gcode_macro G32] gcode: SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=1 STATUS_HEATING M190 S80 # Set and wait for bed to reach temperature for Tap M109 S140 # Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature #------------------------------------------------------------------- SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=Nevermore SPEED=0.90 BED_MESH_CLEAR STATUS_HOMING G28 STATUS_CLEANING CLEAN_NOZZLE STATUS_LEVELING QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL STATUS_HOMING G28 STATUS_READY

Are you referring to the bolts that stop the pei sheet from sliding off the back side?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop exactly!

@@thageri84 So I'm using a new bed that has those drilled and tapped. However, here is the link to the purge bucket that you can build that adds those for you. Decontaminator: github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/abandoned_mods/printer_mods/edwardyeeks/Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop That link is not good

@@brandi1233 Seems it moved: mods.vorondesign.com/detail/eiGz71BOprk2GapXbQVgA

Thanks for the tip. I'm certainly going to be careful and not let the nozzle drop too deep.

Does this go slow enough to melt the stiff plastic bristles from an autozone brush? Trying to think of non conductive materials. Ceramic maybe?

@@travistucker7317 You can set the speed to whatever you like, but depending on what plastic the bristles are made from, they could melt and make a mess of your nozzle. Instead of a plastic brush, silicon bristles would be the way to go. It can easily stand the heat. In fact, silicon can probably handle more heat than the your printer can by a wide margin. Some folks are concerned about brass bristles, but if the nozzle is nickel plated like many are, the nickel is much harder. This particular nozzle is brass, so far I don't notice wear, but I have not been using this very long.

Not for me. I would home 1st. Then QGL. Then home again since the bed leveling with QGL shifts home slightly.

I've been told it would be. And you can certainly use one. But in all this time using it, nickel is harder than brass, so no problem so far. My solid brass nozzles show no wear from the brush as well. So I'm not really worried at this point because everything outside of brass is harder.

It did not seem like I needed to actually purge. The brush was good enough and brushed filament ends up in the bucket. But you can certainly configure it to actually purge if you like.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Ah cool. I figured that might have been the case.

I have not heard of this. Do you know how? I've had this working on my printer since this video was published and I'm using a Spider 1.0 mcu. It has been no trouble at all. I'm curious as how this might happen. Thanks for the comments!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop im guessing static electricity

@@jamessmallwood7448 I would think that if the printer is grounded properly, this should not be a problem. I have not had this problem. Even in the middle of winter when it's very dry around here and charges build up. I would not worry about this happening.

In your case, was it touching the bed? 90% of what I print is ABS and after 7 months, it's holding up. I also wonder if the material the brush is made of might be the problem?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Hi. No, there was 5mm or even more between bed and the brush. Probably you are right. Brush material might be a problem. Question is: where i can get this brush that will withstand the heat? I just get totally generic brush from my local supplier. This gadget is really cool and help me a lot with cleanliness around bed and even if i will have to replace it every 6 months it is worth it.

@@MateuszWasik-vf4ow This is the one I have been using with no trouble. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XNZ33MZ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks. I will try this one.

@@MateuszWasik-vf4ow I think it has helped quite a bit. Please don't use the exact same values in my cfg files as you will need to come up with your own as each printer is different. Thanks!

I have head where some people use a silicon brush instead. I have also heard that you should use a magnet to determine if the bristles are actually brass and not steel which will destroy your nozzle. I have not had any trouble so far.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop ok thank you, i have to try with other brush and check before with magnet, thank you

All newer videos have no more background music. You are not the only one to complain. Thanks for watching!

Easier said than done...

Who copied who? This predates the Bambu printer....