Top 10 StealthBurner build tips 

Thank you very much for the kind comment!

Good luck with the build and thank you!

Great to hear! Thank you for watching and good luck with the build!

Thank you for the nice comments and watching!

You should be able to. Thanks for the comment and watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!

Thank you very much for the kind words and I'm very glad you find these helpful. I'd be happy to hear how these two printers turn out!

Thank you! It sounds like I need to look for some better music....

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the tip, but I've tried it and it's no better. Have a look at my last video, I removed most of them....

Thank you for watching!

Then the video was worth it. Thanks so much for watching!

I've got the EBB36 installed as well. Seems to work well. I've seen others use the LGX lite as well. I might need to try that at some point. Thanks for the comments and watching!

If it's printing beautiful, I would leave it be. Thank you for watching!

I considered that but also have a rapido on the way as the printer is actually outrunning the dragon HF. So, I will likely have to redo some work anyway so I might as well get the gear ratio correct. Your channel is one my my goto for Voron content…thanks again

@@brianadreger I just read this again. When I run higher speeds, I've noticed I need to increase the temperature for the Filament as well. You might find an additional 5 or 10 degrees help it hit that speed. I would also try a CHT nozzle which is designed to better distribute the heat within the filament to help it melt better/faster. Also, thank you very much!

Thank you for the compliments! Glad you liked it and thank you for watching!

That's a good idea. Thank you!

But if you want to increase the amperage.....thanks!

I have heard that, but as of yet no experience with moon motors. Thank you!

There are lines, but it's hard to see with the lighting and the camera. However, I think the z-offset has a lot to do with it. You may find having it slightly closer to the bed at the start of the print might get you the look you are after. I'm glad the video was a help. Thank you for watching and the kind comments!

Thanks for the info! However, I think it's a poor quality drag chain as I've rotated it and it was worse. But I've got to run additional wire soon, so I'll try that again just to make sure. Thank you for the tip and for watching!

If the extruder is clicking, I would check to see if increasing the pressure with the thumbscrew helps. I would also check to make sure retraction is not more than 0.5mm. As a last resort, I might try increasing the motor current slightly. For the fan, I found it tricky to get installed properly and flush. I would try that and also check to make sure it wasn't slightly contacting a wire. Thanks for watching!

All Voron parts are designed for ABS, so don't take shrinkage into account, the designers already have. I did not use arachne when I built this printer because it did not exist. Today I would use it. It will probably look slightly better and no loss in strength. All Voron design build manuals/instructions have the settings you should use for printing at the beginning of the document. You should follow those details. However, if you are printing the parts for a v2.4 (for example), page 4 states this: PART PRINTING GUIDELINES The Voron Team has provided the following print guidelines for you to follow in order to have the best chance at success with your parts. There are often questions about substituting materials or changing printing standards, but we recommend you follow these: 3D PRINTING PROCESS: Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) INFILL TYPE: Grid, Gyroid, Honeycomb, Triangle or Cubic MATERIAL: ABS INFILL PERCENTAGE: Recommended: 40% LAYER HEIGHT: Recommended: 0.2mm WALL COUNT: Recommended: 4 EXTRUSION WIDTH Recommended: Forced 0.4mm SOLID TOP/BOTTOM LAYERS Recommended: 5 I hope that helps. And thank you for the great comments and watching!

Sorry about that. I was expecting it would be posed elsewhere and I would provide the link. That did not happen. I posted it to my GitHub. Please see here: github.com/Kapman1/StealthBurner-Single-MGN9-Carriage Please let me know if that does not work or you cannot get it. It should be open to everyone. Thanks!

AlitExpress. Here is the store: www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Titanium-Fasteners/1101411097_513072835.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_12275096.1_7 I should have posted the link. Thanks for reminding me. Thank you for watching!

I really like it as well. Paramount 3d Military Green. They have some other military shades of green as well that are worth looking at. Thanks for watching!

They worked for me. I assume they will work for you as well. Thank you for watching!

Yes. I purchased this kit. It's available from other vendors as well. kb-3d.com/store/bondtech/484-bondtech-bmg-extruder-internals-kit-build-your-own-1645151327973.html Thanks for watching!

I acually did not use the decontaminator. All the links and the story of what I did is here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZEXYnXZA8B0.html Thank you very much for watching!

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop watched a lot of your videos and don't know how I missed that one. Keep up the great work and thanks for all the info.

@@AbjectMaelstrom That you for the encouragement!

I used a Gdstime blower. So far, it seems to work well. No complaints.

I have purchased from both these places successfully: fastener.aliexpress.com/store/1101411097?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_12275096.0 chinatiscrew.aliexpress.com/store/1100450727?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_36874919.0 Also, some have started using aluminum screws as they are apparently cheaper and lighter.

I used this same printer with afterburner built with a Dragon HF. And now the dragon HF is in the stealth burner.

Thank you for an interesting idea! I need some time to consider a cool way to get this done. But I do plan on releasing one now that you have suggested it.

The NEMA 14 is most likely for the extruder on the print head

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop and the other NEMA 17? Is it from the parts list?

Aluminum screws are much cheaper and also lighter. But I got them here: www.aliexpress.com/store/1101411097?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.18.1ee31802xV8vym They were cheaper than steel screws at my local hardware store.... Thanks for watching!

@Kapman's Basement Workshop my pleasure 🙏, thanks for the videos and link

What error are you getting?

Do you have an actual mainsail.cig file?

I did too. It was a mistake I made and you can't recover from it. Thanks for watching!

I think the top 3 reasons are: 1. Vastly better cooling for PLA. It's not even close on this one. 2. Lighting at the nozzle. 3. Smaller and lighter and possibly better extruder motor. I might add a 4th for better wire hiding with improved cover. But honestly, if you just print ABS, there is no major need here.

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the answer! I could love number 1 (although my PLA prints are quite ok now), the nozzle lights I don't know if I need them and the installation and wiring seems a bit complicated. Could I also leave the lights out? 3 and 4 - alright, why not! Are there also disadvantages of the stealthburner compared with the afterburner, reasons against an upgrade?

@@martinlacher7932 I don't think there are any disadvantages, but I need more time using it to be sure. But if you only print ABS, I would only switch if something was broken with afterburner as it's great for ABS. You can run StealthBurner without the LED lighting. I temporarily have my LED lighting disabled as I am using the MCU RGB connections for Nevermore. But I am about to fix that in the next week or so. I'm actually excited to have LED lighting at the nozzle. I find myself using a flashlight to sometimes observe what is happening on the 1st layer. The LED lighting will solve that.

Pretty close to the truth!

If you extruder keeps skipping, check the resistance in the filament path frm the spool to the tool head. You can also inscrease the current to the extruder motor. I don't think the 32 microsteps improve quality. But it will reduce motor torque...a possible cause for skipping?

I have never used nylon bolts. I know nothing about them. Do you think they are strong enough in the heat?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop They use them quite frequently in building drones to reduce the weight. So they have the strength. Considering their melting temp is around 250, why not give them a go?

@@oplavevski Ha! you are tempting me. Now that you mention it, I have some small ones for mounting circuit boards. Not nearly long enough, but might be usable in a few strategic spots. I'll look into them and work on a project....Thank you for the tip!

@@oplavevski In just a few minutes of looking at the different types, this is super interesting.

You mean for the Voron 2.4 v1?

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop yes

You need to download the source code zip file here: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2

Have you looked into it? Not that many are needed. That said, it's not critical. Purely optional. Thanks for watching!