Increase the thickness of your "ptfe_tube_cutter" from 10.1mm to 12.1mm and you can cut the tube to the desired length accurately and evenly without a caliper
wow that is awesome, i love it... i already once thought about recreating the one from Bambu - all thought the issue i fear is that it only cleans the nozzle tip and not the whole nozzle body. when i got more time one day i might actually test it, you did a really good job on this one, thank you very much
If you have a well tuned printer the nozzle doesn't generally get dirty. And for the few times it does it's not hard to clean it manually. I myself still regularly see my printer physically so it's not really an issue. This solution does deal with ooze which is nice when probing with the nozzle.
Just curious, wouldn't it make more sense doing this at the end of the print? The nozzle is already warm. No need to heat up and then cool down again. Then the nozzle is ready for next print.
i have installed the mod and it worked perfectly untill I printed basically a full bed of prints, and it started colliding with the printhead at the rear while printing, resulting in parts failing due to the bumping, and the ptfe holder breaking. I had to mount the bed further front to even get the printhead over the PTFE in the first place, so of the 350Y Travel i have about 330 left (5mm due to mounting the bed further front, and about 15mm for printhead clearance). I think it is due to my combination of vorons tap (a CNC version of it rather) and the stealthburner. Otherwise this workes like a charm, is easy to print, and the bumpers are a nice and welcome addition!
Haaa je me demandais pourquoi je n'étais pas sur le PTFE mais vraiment le bord de la pièce >< et je me suis aussi posé la question du risque de collision...
Looks great. My only concern would be that the print will eventually snap. Wouldn't it make sense to have it barely touch the ptfe tube? I'm building a voron and I guess I'll give this a shot rather than the brush. Lieben Gruß :)
Unrelated, but could you tell me (us), which camera holder you are using? Looks neat there at the rear end of the bed. Would you also pictures of the viewing angle this gives?
@@stefanf6495 Finally found it, at least I think so, printing now. GLaDOS Cam by under ProtaDec on printables, the "back extrusion gantry mount by GAB-3D" files. I have pi cam v3 - so I also grabbed "Voron GLaDOS Cam front remix for Raspberry Pi Camera V3" by Jevermeister EDIT: Nevermind - I was looking for what he had in the video - but also looking for rear X extrusion as an alternative. His might even be attached to cable chain? The hunt continues.
Nice! The only thing is (for a V2.4) that you can't use is in the middle of a print. You can hit a part while moving back. This should be installed on the gantry.
I have the Decontaminator setup on my LDO V2.4 300, and I rarely use it because it seems to cause as many problems with bits of plastic stuck to the nozzle as it fixes. It was worth adding for the sheet stops alone though. I have not found the screws to be prone to bending, however I printed the parts out of PC carbon fiber, and I turned the screws in as far as they would go and still have the heads catch the sheet, so I don't have screw heads protruding above the level of the sheet. Looks like you used an LDO kit... LDO uses a slightly thicker aluminum bed than the standard Voron spec calls for, so they have a modified version of the Decontaminator parts with the sheet stop mounts raised in height to match. If you are using the original version of the printed parts, then this could be why you have had issues with the screws bending, since they would be protruding out from the parts more, and thus be more prone to bend. IIRC there is a link to the modified parts on LDO's printed parts guide. However there is another issue with the LDO modified parts. They raised the height of the sheet stops, but they don't appear to have raised the height of the brass brush to match. This leads to the brush being essentially level with the bed, so you have to be pretty careful when setting the height and Y position of the nozzle when it wipes (depending on what hot end you are using), to ensure that you don't contact one of the sheet stop screws or even the bed. With the wide nozzles used by the Revo hot end, I had a pretty narrow envelope in which it could wipe; this might not be the case with other hot ends.
Bambu owners after two years "man that thing is annoying. It flings the poop everywhere when printing PETG". Voron owners be like "allright ... let's copy that sucker" 😂.
Do you have to move the table a little further? On my 350mm it's not quite getting to the ptfe. And what filament do you use? I'm afraid petg will soften up when printing abs. but no other filament I've tried will give enough springiness for the element
Installed and love the action.. is there a way to setup a check and preheat before the operation? Just did a clean rebuild of my 2.4 and would expect it to be able to operate independently. Also, whats your print_start look like?
Very neat. I love this design. After seeing the Bambu in person the other day I wanted something like this as well. Sadly, I have a bed slinger and have almost no where the nozzle can reach without being over the bed. Got about 10 mm of clearance on the right side of the bed. Was thinking of doing something just like this, then realized that would require some work and had a simpler idea. Since I have bltouch and know my beds z height fairly precisely, I can just use the edge of the bed to do a small wipe right after purging off the side of the bed. The head positions itself off the side, waits for temp, then spits out 10mm of filament, it then does the normal retract length, wipes 5 mm into the bed really quickly, then lifts up and travels to start printing. Surprisingly effective and has the first line going down smooth. Still might try to see if I can recreate this ptfe tube thing in the space i have, there have been an occasion where I found a small blob of filament that did not purge off the head until half way to where the print was to start. would be annoying to have something like that lying around on a larger print. Might have to modify since i cant afford to be yeeting filament towards the bed. That bugger in your video would have hit my x endstop.
great work and well documented, thanks for that! Could it be that you have forgotten the variable_bucket_start: and variable_bucket_pos: in the clean_nozzle.cfg? And in Line 103 it should be MACRO=clean_nozzle instead of MACRO=clean_nozzle_2?
Needing to cool the nozzel before cleaning adds time to the startup sequence unnecessarily. Better off using some silicon fuel tubing instead of the ptfe tube. Might not be as durable though. I would personally put the effort into finding some silicon sheet and make one of those designs. They work better, are more durable and can be built low profile for 2.4's.
Oof, have been using this but just recently my beacon probe collided with the print and broke the printed part. Seems like I will need to avoid printing anything close to the edge of the rear of the bed.
@@scheffield Are you using a beacon as well? I was going to edit the design so that the scrubber sits a few mm lower. The beacon PCB extends out pretty far back on my setup and is only about 3mm above the nozzle.
I'm also getting errors on the value "bucket_pos", I can't find it in the .cfg file or where to change this. Probably I misread something because in the cfg file there it says for the Y position thats its assumed 0 but with my printer it is 350.
Interesting. You could upgrade it to have multiple hooks with tubes printed out, just in case one breaks out over time. In other words, make a brush made of rolls. And to be fancy, every single hook would be held on a magnet sandwiched between magnets, and a couple of spare hooks would be clipped on magnets behind the purge bucket.
How are u able to get that far back with the Toolhead. I have the Brush too but i barely reach the front of the Brush so it does not clean that well. What have i todo?
I didn't understand how this cleaner helps. Ok you've pushed some filament, cooled the nozzle, removed the filament. But as soon as you you heat it up again some of the filament will go down the nozzle just because of the gravity. And you actually need to clean the nozzle the second before it starts printing, otherwise is dirty again.
no its not stupid ... this is meant to clean the nozzle for probing with nozzle probes like tap, before the print right after probing and meshing it dosent matter anymore cause you print a purge anyways that gets rid of filament
i got a question for you.. i got a bambulab a1 mini . after maby 3 prints the print bed was to low on the left side. i did auto bed leveling over and over but did not help. i contacted bambulab and they gave me a guide how to manual level the bed. if i have to level it manual, then what is the auto bed leveling doing? is it just moving to make it look like it is auto leveling?
PTFE. Can withstand 250 degrees Celsius before breaking down. Besides, it only touches the nozzle for around 3 seconds max per nozzle cleaning. Definitely not enough for the ptfe to heat up to that high of a temperature
The hotend is cooled to either 150c or room temp first. And in the Bambu lab printers it doesn’t even cool down first during filament changes and swipes across the ptfe tube. The momentary contact with the tube is no where near enough time for it to heat up anything close to temps for it to start breaking down.
i got Error evaluating 'gcode_macro clean_nozzle:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'bucket_start' is undefined i thing something is missing in de marco
Wonderful! I have my Voron 2.4 in service but I haven’t installed the nozzle cleaner yet. I’ll give this a shot instead of the brass brush. In the meantime I’ve just been cleaning the nozzle by hand and starting the print with a long purge line.
