I would suggest moving the x carriage end stop from the x carriage to the cross bar/y carriage and have it hit the e3s hot end mount. this does 3 things, it clears up the space above the printer making it easier to add or remove new heads, it reduces the weight of the carriage making the printer faster and more accurately and most importantly it allows you to have different end stop distances for different printer heads. some heads will take up more space than others and you may end up with issues when trying to home the printer
Did anyone notice the quality difference between the old and new parts? Assuming that the old parts were made on the Prusa and the new on the Hypercube, there's a proper side-by-side example of how good the Hypercube is. Will done Tech2C!!
Instead of undoing screws, a quick release camera mount for a tripod is a good way of securing a hot end or other printing head to the X Carriage rail mount....they incorporate stabilising side walls to stop the extruder head shifting side to side; Existent parts can be adapted to receive this new attachment. Surely it's possible to 3D print a quick release head assembly..... I'm going to give it a go.
I was thinking along similar lines. A dovetail groove to slide the head onto and it can be locked down with a single screw. This would facilitate faster swapping of the heads and simplify alignment when mounting.
Good idea, although Im thinking of trying to use no screws at all. Magnets could negate the need for screws if combined with a "self tightening/stabilising" woodwork joint... If you design a new mount, please share eg. on Thingverse or print one and sell me it LOL!
Great series. I was inspired to create a very similar design with the aim of using Geetech A10 (Ender 3 lookalike) parts. One of the first things I discovered is that the bearings (for the carbon fiber rods) are slightly compressible. If the bearing holder is a split ring with clamping screw it is possible to fine tune the fit and eliminate any slack while maintaining free movement.
You can expand on the "hot swap" hot end assembly by using an "mpx connector" to connect the heater cartridge, thermistor (and another connection such as a fan if you choose the x3 connector). These connectors are high amp rated and allow you to connect/disconnect the whole electronics in one easy step. I use this setup on my Toolson Edition P3Steel. Steve
Yes a connector will likely be required to finalise the ease of tool head changing. A bit of effort upfront to solder everything to mpx connectors but worth it in the long run. We could common all grounds together to reduce pin count? Good idea!
I just disambled my i3 and build a hypercube and damn, this 3d printer design is going places. I never saw such a printing quality on a fdm machine. I love my new hypercube. great engeneering work tech2c! hope there will be a hypercube 2 series someday, even when i cant imagine what to do better. :D Also u got a real nice voice to listen to, so your videos are very nice to watch. So, now its time for some tobu & itro!
Early on in the build series I made the decision to locate it with the X carriage as we needed cable management for the hotend anyway. After this video it seems nonsensical to keep it with the X carriage but wee will see. A laser engraver will need cable management and so will a drill so I don't think it's a total miscalculation just yet...
Been following from the start, loved how clean your prints were even on the I3. I might suggest moving the endstop over, and then perhaps having each loom unplug and come off, so you don't have to just tie each one out of the way for laser/mill/hotend. That could get really clunky really fast, and a modular system would be awesome.
Tech2c, fantastic work. Your mods in this video to make the base x-carriage capable of supporting other solutions has gotten me thinking. What about a solution that caters for multi-colour printing, with a view to hopefully supporting auto-'head-change'. Could you not possibly cater for multiple hot-ends mounted somewhere on the alum frame, and able to be reached and auto-attached to the base x-carriage ? ie with no human interaction and minimal delay. I'm thinking possibly with a locking mechanism that might use an r/c micro-servo or small solenoid. Also, perhaps removal of the fans from the head-end to the y-axis or outer frame, and use of lightweight air ducting etc (possibly as a one-off attached to the base x-carriage, rather than per head). Also, have you considered the use of M3/M4 aluminium bolts and nuts to save weight, as the number of nuts and bolts seems to be escalating.
All you really would need to do to get a multicolor setup is to use the e3d chimera instead of the e3dv6. Im planning on making my hypercube compatible with the chimera system some time. First i need to build it and get it to work with my e3d Volcano tho! :)
Hypercube looks really good and this is a nice change. If I may, I would've made one very minor change. That would be maybe simple triangle shape on both parts to make a alignment automatic when changing tools.
Very nice idea, I always wondered about this possibility to simplify the assembly and make it more modular . Now I realized that the XY plate on my printer is upside down, as the holes for the endstops should be towards 0 of the axis (left)
Great developments with the Hypercube! I can't wait to print out the new x-carriage and e3d mount. I'm wondering though, assuming any new mounts will also use the RAMPS board, maybe make a breakout board with connectors to mount on the x-carriage? That way the loom acts as a wiring harness which doesn't need to be replaced when a tool change is required, just disconnect from the x-carriage.
you are THE BEST. i have a printer and i want to make new 3d printer. i draw new printer on autocad. Im learning from you all things about 3d printers. you are a good teacher :D I want to say a lot of things but my english make me limited.
Actually if the inductive sensor would be attached to the carriage itself, you just had to design the other toolheads in a way that for example the tip of a pen is at the exact same place as the Nozzle-Tip. (Maybe with an 3d printed aligning Tool?) Like this you would have to purchase an own sensor for every toolhead.
Hamilton Cline: I disagree. Most tool heads will need the inductive probe. And if you're already running cables to the x-carriage anyway... Just use the tip of the probe as the baseline and align all the other tools to that. The mounting mechanism described in the video seems precise enough that you won't lose alignment when swapping tools in and out.
Im currently working on this printer myself! Where im using the full length of my 600mm rods for the X and Y axis. and full 500mm on my Z axis! Im, not using bushings etc, like you do tho. So I've had to modify alot of the parts! Im aiming for a printer who will be capable of printing 50x45x45cm! Will be making a "Remix" on thingiverse aswell as taking pictures! Fun project as I've not made anything like this before! Using alot of your videos as reference ofc. But allso adding an Optical filament sensor to automatically pause the print when filament runs out!
I have a proposal/tip for the velcro for you. You could do it like it is done with music cables and just tie the loop part to the smaller cable guide. The hotend cable guide can then be attached by looping it around that and the small one a bit. That way you don't have to undo the whole tie on every toolchange. P.S. do you have bigger diameter probe mounts? There was a video by Thomas Sanladerer on comparing different ones and the bigger ones had a better repeatability
Interesting idea. At the moment just the single sized probe mount but it's quite a simple part anyone can make their own to suit. Also check the remixes section on Thingiverse for just that.
Thanks! looks nice, but those two black pipes look big and bulky, it will be nice to see an upgrade for those pipes with much slimmer and may be all in one slim pipe?
The x endstop could possibly be mounted on the left side of the gantry (where it now meets the plastic and actuates), thus removing the need for the double cable loop velcroing :)
Yeah, I remember during the early build videos I chose to attach it to the carriage as everything else on it had cabling too. I may need to revisit the X endstop if it becomes a hassle.
if the bed sensor will be needed for other attachments then leave it mounted along with the endstop... leave the 4 screw holes but have pegs come out of the extruder's assembly and have a single big mounting screw in the middle. definitely not a fan of the two cable organizers coming off of it though. to increase the build volume (not by much mind you, but I'm a freak when it comes to utilizing space) I'd build it so the nozzle just barely clears the bottom track to free up some more z space. I'd even shoot the airstream of the fans between the lower belt and rail through a hole in the piece that stays mounted and run the fan off the backside so fewer parts get taken off... the fan could be used to cool a laser attachment as a bonus, or blow away cnc materials.
Yes it will be good idea to have a modular extruder design where we can add Laser engraver or pcb etching / engraving and may be Milling too! I have great trust on Tech2C and hope to see these in future.
Why would the nut size change? They are manufactured according to a norm, so they are always the same size (of course there are tolerances) if you buy the same norm part.
It's all coming from China so standardization can go right out the window.. the parts may also have been a non-standard special order and the seller is just trying to offload surplus. - Eddy
So glad this got reworked. The old system was a bit cumbersome to put together. Kudo's on the nice work (in general)! Any chance you could post your settings for the eSun PLA pro filament? It's the one filament that I haven't been able to get working on my Hypercube. I get tons of strings, even with really high retraction settings and 220C/50C settings. Everything else seems to work like a charm.
Any thoughts about switching from the 4 mounting screws, to an approach that hooks on, and uses a thumb screw to hold in place. Tool-less quick release?
I've got a wip design on my i3 clone using 4 10mm neodymium magnets on each side (4 on the carriage, 4 on the print head bracket) and 4 bolts as locator pins and it holds *very* well. Once I get my hypercube sorted I plan to make a similar mount for it :D
Interesting idea! Please let us know how it performs. Also we could make a magnetic plate that screws to the X-Carriage but allows magnetic attachments?
Will do, i'm still waiting on a couple of parts for the hyper cube :) I can see any reasons not to make a magnetic adapter plate but given how thick the 10mm magnets i've been using are it might make sense to use a bigger number of smaller magnets to get the same clamping force. That said, i'l thinking about trying some smaller ones anyway, 4 sets of 10mm neodymium magnets clamp *very* well, almost too well :D
I still like Artur's X Carriage remix better. His captive nuts already make the tool head changeable from the back with 4 screws. His also has captive nuts everywhere, like the endstop. I'd worry that using nyloc nuts doesn't give enough length for the carriage to be strong. Also have you seen Bagwan's belt tensioner? It's really useful.
That would be difficult to print, but I guess the main reason is some hotends have different lengths. This way you can choose the length of duct required.
Hi, I 3D printed and build you Hyper Cube. I have build other printer before. But, this is the first one that has Auto Bed Leveling. The inductive sensor is the same as yours. Marlin 1.1.9 is configured from your two sample files. I am quite savvy with Marlin. But, I need to tune in the Z axis. With bed leveling feature "G29". The Z height is always two high to print. Do you have another Video to do this calibration on your machine? I did try using C Riley bed leveling You tube video. But, I think I need more detail on how to do Z Cal on your design.
Just a thought but, would (wiring loom wise) it not be easier to have all the wires connected to connectors on the back of the carriage like the Toronado extruder? Also, shouldn't the sensor also be on the "X" carriage? so that you can use the homing for a diode laser of cnc tool?
Great videos every one of them. Nice job and very educational. I am wanting to start my own off your ideas, but i am in the US and alot that you have used is not available in the us. Like your 2020 aluminum extruded i can either do 1 inch or 15mm. Im thinking of going to the 15mm but the printed material that you came up with won't work due to the center lines. Is there anyway i can change the printed material to fit my concept so i dont have to try to reengineer the wheel so to speak??
Are you going to add some sort of lockring to the screws so they wont fall out? And are you going to add some sort of indexation so that you easily can change between tools without having to check heights?
Yeah, but thats for when the "tool" is mounted. I meant for when there is no "tool" mounted on the "baseplate". Just a simple starlock or something like that holds the screws in place.
Regarding checking heights, the E3D mount has the induction probe attached so 'should' auto home to the correct Z height. Each tool would need it's own Z homing sensor or just go manual.
I am interested in building this printer you've done a grand job! I have been thinking about it for a while. I am considering it building it with 50 cm linear rods to get a larger build volume. I am worried that there could be problems that arise from this that I am unaware of. Any thoughts?
Funny when i was building mine I was thinking surely this induction sensor mount is going to give me trouble since I could move it with my finger quite easily but once the x carriage was fully assembled I have never had one bit of trouble with it.
This is a nice upgrade! I'll start printing mine today, thanks. On the sensor holder, my current setup interferes with the (top) cooling fan, is the new setup doing the same thing? Oh, and on a separate subject, my 10mm carbon rods came in but they are not 10mm, they range from 9.86mm to 9.90mm so I will need to re-think some solution for the bearings... just a heads up on this for others. Cheers, - Eddy
Buy the carbon tubes from somewhere else then. I bought mine from ebay from a reputable seller. Not the cheapest but quality is very good. My induction sensor has a couple mm clearance from the fan, but I can understand if it needs to be mounted higher it could interfere with the blower fan. In that case the induction sensor mount should be extended 5mm to clear it.
Thanks for the reply. I will go back and re-check my source. I see that there is an amazon source for them as well (buildlog #16). I will look into that. Cheers, - Eddy
Dear sir, after i'we seen your great videos on Hypercube build, i decided to make one for my friend. I would be grateful if you can tell me if your buildplate have sagged after, now i guess longer time of use. I am thinking if thats the case that perhaps i could instead of leadscrew go with belt approach on Z axis and perhaps add support rails somewhere closer to bed front. Thanx & best regards.
I've been googling just that. I believe the 5500mw laser on banggood can do it in 2-3 passes, or the 2500mw laser in 3-6 passes. Each has their advantage/disadvantage but I haven't decided which one to buy.
What are your thoughts about the way this is handled on the hypercube evolution, with the 4 dowels, and a single screw? I'd also like to hear your thoughts on that derivative in general.
14:58 "The x end stop cable still needs to stay with the x gantry". No it doesn't. Don't know why you kept the x end stop where it is vs moving it off to the side, off the gantry. The loom for that is a pain in the ass right now by keeping it where you put it in order to keep everything in the original loom.
great great great improvement love it thanks. I'd like to see some addressingthe health concerns and potentially make an affordable enclosure for it. it's a box after all. I have built one and love it but using the ikea table hack with extensions. but would love to see your take on it and how you'd enclose the top. thanks again another video that makes me want to run to the printer and get printing!
Hey Tech2c nice work here.. I was wondering if i can get the cad design of these 3D printed parts you used. It will be very helpful to build my printer. 😊
I've seen modifications to your hypercube design that uses 3030 extrusions for the frame. Do you think that is a viable upgrade, or is it a bit of overkill? Also, what % of infill did you print the PETG in this video's project? Thanks.
I print at 50% infill with PETG. If 2020 extrusions aren't strong for supporting molten plastic being squished through a 0.4mm nozzle then a redesign is required, in my opinion :P
Well they scaled up the size a bit and I didn't know whether or not the 3030's would be overkill, especially for added mass for a little noise reduction and more rigidity. I asked because I'm hoping to build my first 3D printer based off of your design but making it a hybrid of the other design for the larger size and a couple other tweaks of my own based off of a couple other designs. I think the cost of the 2020's is much more managable, but I was worried about the larger size might need a little thicker stock since I don't have the experience you have with it.
12:47 funny how when you move your carriage your fan spins :P I wanna design my own improved parts for my hypercube evolution that i'm building soon since a lot of the design decisions are questionable but I'm not good enough at designing! well maybe soon :)
Love your work, thank you very much. I would suggest that you update the " E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3 " on thigiverse to the last version for people who just want the mount and don't know about the hypercube as its a bit confusing.
keying a raised channel or groove into the mating surfaces on the plates would help ensure the attachment is true (no tramming adjustment) with no radial slop from the screw bodies. this interface can also be used for drop (into) mounts to hold unused attachments on frame. Great job, thanks for sharing. have a bunch of parts to start a build of one of these.
I just buy from local eSun distributers now. The diameter tolerance on Auraum's plastic is quoted as +-0.1mm which is too much variance for 1.75mm filament, ok for 3mm.
Hey tech2c thank you for changing the endstop mount. It was very needed. Did you modify the new offset from the nozzle in the firmware. Keep up the good work.
Yes the induction sensor mount was in dire need of replacement. The new firmware is set to 0 as you can change the Z offset via the menu on LCD screen. If you don't have an LCD then you must change it via gcode or firmware.
Thank you for the thoughtful reply. I just finished two decades in industrial controls an can state as a fact that using pins is an industry accepted practice to make sure often removed parts are correctly returned to position while minimizing the number of fasteners. If you disagree giving yours reasons would be helpful. Or alternately just don’t post a reply. The curt “No" is rude and uncalled for.
In haste of answering many questions I may have been too abrupt with my response - apologies. My reason for not choosing pins is that the plastic material isn't hard enough, in my opinion, to withstand repeated lateral forces without elongating the pin holes over time. For 3D printing, laser engraving and plotting, sure, pins will be fine. But when we begin milling I feel 4 fasteners clamping the plastic surfaces together will withstand the greater forces.
If your in US, McMasterCarr sells 2020 extrusion, though there are probably better/cheaper suppliers. I went through Aurarum for my extrusion because they'd cut it to length for me. edit: (though Aurarum is AU)
You're welcome. :) Oh, I had a question for you. I'm ordering the parts to make my own modified version of hypercube right now and I was kind of curious on why you prefer banggood and not aliexpress?
Fair enough, and that's part of the reason I'm selecting some of the parts there as well since my budget is so bare and I have to shop around. Do you want me to keep you posted on the progress of my printer? I only have my motors ordered so far, but my shopping list is almost completed (and likely would be completed by now if it weren't for metric screws being so difficult to find here in the US)
you could add 4 pin connector next to assembly and keep all in one pipe. then tou could print connector and make this compleatly replaceable with laser .
Tech2C ihave laser love it but ihave to re design alot to do it what i need to do.i have custom connectors sure 3d printed. i may post this on thingiverse later. its easy to swap heads . igot direct drive laser and filament heads that can be swaped in less them minute. but love ur videos keep it up!!!
One of the things I really appreciate about these is how I was able to do my mount for my hot end. I have a titan aero, and it looks rather nice and is ideally accessible when facing forward. So I used a pancake motor (both a small one and the one e3d sells as an option), but to keep the size of my mount down I didn't want to have to put nuts just behind the motor (and in fact would be very hard). So I was able to melt these brass fittings in on the back - the face that connects to the x carriage and they stayed in perfectly.
2 mins into the video... i was still wondering why the title said "New 3D Printer" then i realized it was referring to "Hypercube" being a new 3d printer back then...
They are tons of buky, noisy printers on RU-vid. Mostly made by people with no machine shop experience. For most users Kessler Delta printers are satisfied, with decent printing area and small footprint on your desk.
