One other thing that people don't think about doing in getting rid of the sound is to look for all the direct passages of air from the outside, to the cabin, and plug them up. Those holes account for 20~30% of the sound you hear. We're talking passthroughs, rubber not meeting the seal point, gaps etc.
Agreed. That’s one of the reasons I went with a Sambar so the engine was further away from the cab. Also, heat. I’ve heard in the mid engine minis that it makes the cab hotter. But yeah, grab some spray foam in a can and spray all the inconspicuous places you can see that let sound in
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Your bed liner looks good. I hope it holds up well. Weird Fact: The rust reformer products shouldn't be applied over scaling rust (nothing should), but they also shouldn't be applied over bare metal. Rust reformer needs a very thin layer of surface rust to form a proper bond. In the case of your truck bed, I'd have used a flap sander on a grinder to remove all of the rust, wiped it down with MEK, and then sprayed it with an acid etch primer, and when that cured in 30 minutes, I'd have rolled on Monstaliner polyurethane bed liner. I'm planning on two heavy coats of gray Monstaliner in my Hijet bed with a heavy texture (use a fresh coarse roller to roll over it when it starts to cure and thicken), and two lighter rolled coats of the same gray Monstaliner (maybe with a smooth microfiber roller) on the rest of the Hijet, inside and outside. The heavy polyurethane coating deadens sound... even better if both sides of a piece of sheet metal are coated. The brayer (rubber roller) that you used to apply your sound deadening sheets is very good for rolling over masking tape to make a tight bond that prevents paint or bed liner from wicking underneath. The masking tape should be removed as soon as the last coat of bed liner has been applied. Don't wait for it to dry. I was glad to see that the headache rack and the front plastic comes off without too much trouble. I'm still waiting for my Hijet to ship from Japan, but I need to remove those parts for a proper paint job. 11:50 - I seriously doubt the Hijet uses #12-1/2" machine screws to retain the bed sides. Home Depot has stainless metric hardware.
The truck bed looks great, what a difference Also, when replacing screws, nuts & bolts, I would only go to a marine store or ace hardware and use stainless steel hardware only I am curious if new Kei trucks can be registered here in New York (I live in Nassau County)
yeah im in queens and it was a lil annoying cause i didn't buy it with a title but if you can find one with a title that would make everything much easier
Even though it was a lot of work, it looks like you had fun. Definitely a HUGE improvement! I'm saving up to buy a mini truck Kei. Looking at Honda Acty 5 speed with AC. We need AC in Texas!
Great job on the liner. Did it hold up without scratching or peeling? i was thinking of doing my mini truck but think it might not stick well /cheers ScrapBongo
Hey yeah it did its job fine, the great part about doing it this was is if you do get any scuffs from something you can just brush over it. Unlike the raptor paint gun way its rugged on purpose
Were you still able to get the engine cover off after this? I was expecting you'd need to remove it and paint it separately, as you did the side panels.
The wait is terrible. It took three months for Wisconsin to reject me for car and truck plates. They said to reapply for collector tags. The wait starts all over again.
I'm still waiting the 2-3 months to receive my Hijet from Japan. Then I have a 16 hour round trip to the port of entry to pay a bunch of fees and tariffs and bribes, and then trailer it home. And THEN I get to wait on the DMV to hopefully license the Hijet. It's like that Carly Simon song... ANTICIPATION is making me wait. Keeping me way ay ay ay ay iting.
