You may be experiencing vapor lock when its gets hot and wont restart. Try a phenolic spacer between the carburetor and intake, to insulate it from the heat.
I put the thickest gasket under the carb that I could. The problem is, the studs look like they are permanent in the manifold and they are too short for anything thicker than the gasket.
@@tacticaljeep94 Those studs screw in, but they're probably in there pretty good at this point in time. You'd likely need a little heat to break 'em loose at this point.
Carbs tricky, send it out to get rebuilt and reinstall yourself. That Rochester (worth keeping) is a 220 CFM carb and the YT is in the 190's. Makes a difference to the "breathing" you're talking about.
Just bought a 1966 custom. Am going to follow this video and replace the Rochester with the Carter. Can you make a video on the shift linkage for the 3 on the tree? How it works? How it’s set up? It was not a smooth shifter and the guy I bought it from said it always jammed. Thanks for the video.
In South Africa that engin was in a car. The chev Kommando. Basically a Holden Kingswood with the Chev engine. Many upgraded to Carter. Some even pur Webers on. Crap carb that Rochester.
Did u notice something in the 5min and 30 seconds line under the carburetor? There was a spark going from the manifold to the motor mount? Check it out.
I'm putting in a 2 barrel holley with an adapter plate. I have a Rochester monojet in it. Needs rebuilt but I'd rather up the cfm and have an electric choke. Oh I have a 65 chevy sportvan.
5:48 what was that spark that looked like it jumped from the motor mount to the frame? Look directly behind the alternator. Also cool swap but that single reservoir master cylinder has got to go. One leak anywhere and oops you have zero braking 😱
Recently got a new carb for my '69 C-10 w/250 six, with electric choke. That choke is causing issues. (or it could be resolved and that there is an ignition issue). In 2021, '60s vehicles are now often D.I.Y.
You think yous is hard to get someone to work on I have a 65 chevy sportvan. They never even made replacement parts. Like I need to do some brake work if I go to the auto part store I tell them I have a chevy II.
My 1960 235 has the same bog if you really stab the throttle at idle. I've always figured it was the accelerator pump even though we put a rebuild kit in it. Your rebuilt carb does the same thing so I guess that's just how they were.
Loved the video. I'm struggling with the same thing on a 64 bel air. I just wanted to know if the tomco is still holding up now that its been on there for a while. If so I think I'm going to pick one up.
On the side by side you said you’d screw vacuum advance in and cap the lower metal tube. In the video it looks like you did the opposite. I followed what you said on the side by side
I put a Carter YF on my '59 Biscayne several years ago and it's a 1000 times better than that Rochester piece of junk. The problem I had with the Rochester is that the air horn warped and leaked like a sieve around the float. There isn't any screws to cinch it down to keep it from warping. My YF is 3211s which has the automatic spring choke.
Help!! Lol. On the back side facing the fire wall. There is an opening on the body of the carb. It sticks out. Right near the linkage connection. Is that a vacuum hole or ? Thanks for the video.
Shrifter, I replace my Rochester with the Carter yf but my idle is through the roof. I feel like the throttle plate isn’t starting off closed or almost closed Even sitting side by side on my work bench you can tell the yf I throttle link is more open than the Rochester. Did you have to do some reworking of the linkage ?
Does not look like a Rochester monojet. Looks like a carter. The one currently on my van is bigger and it says on the float bowl Rochester monojet and GM
Hey buddy I know there's an old video and you probably don't have it but on that car braider that Carter you YF Carburetor do you have the car writer number? I'm trying to find one of those in can You Tell Me is it any good? I'm trying to find a good Carburetor. thanks bro.
@@tacticaljeep94 thanks I'm in the process of putting a 250 6 and a Jeep Wrangler with a 700 R4 Transmission 208 Transfer Case, if we would have had RU-vid back in the 80s I would be dangerous😂
@@tacticaljeep94 yes I have done V8 swaps in Jeep YJ but I wanted to go with something different basically I just love the sound of the straight six Chevrolet had one when I was a kid in high School, this bill here will be in a 98 TJ which is going to be a little tight because the frame rails are more narrow than any of the other Jeeps but the cool thing is is I should be done with this in about a month I'm not one of those people that start a project take two years. I'm excited to see how this is going to work my plan also is to keep the Jeep as light as possible basically going to strip it down to where it looks like an old military Jeep
Wow, I'm dealing with the same problem, and even bought a rebuilt Rochester, and still having problems. What model number is take carb? I'm going carter next
That is true, heck all vehicles back then had “cold natured” starting. It was nothing go out on a cold morning and get the oil running, water warmed up, all before going to work.
Pretty sure this is it www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/tomco-5051/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/carburetor-12234/840def96ca83/tomco-carter-1bbl-carburetor/1171/4746531
I hope that isn't permanent... May as well just take it off for the good it does. If you've been running that air filter with the other carb you replaced perhaps IT might the problem?
Its a really simple setup. It pulls air from the cowl and draws through the heater core and then through the heater box under the dash. There is a selector lever that either pushes air out to your legs or up to the windshield
