I have power boated for 50 years and never knew about hull speed. If I hadn’t sold my boat 3 years ago it would be the next thing I’d checkout. You are a good teacher, speaker and craftsman. Your life will be busier than most but more satisfying as well. Cheers!
I have felt your pain in removing old engines in old boats. You are doing a terrific job thinking through how to move everything that is heavy. Miserable is an understatement when it comes to wooden boats and heavy engines. Keep up the great work love your explanations when you are explaining what it is you are doing. I'm a dog lover too especially boat dogs that are flexible and happy.
A tip for the flywheel is 'fit a stud' temporarily, as this helps hold & guide the flywheel. Actually on the 4.236 i think the front engine feet studs are the same size... i seem to remember it was 3/8 unf thread. Lovely engine i built & worked on these fir many years. Its the best engine & gearbox combination ever !! 👍🏻
Installing flywheel...install temporary studs 180 degrees apart, that will give you something for line up and installing, install remainder of bolts, then remove temporary studs and replace with bolts. I really admire what your doing, takes a lot planing, skill, talent, patients and MONEY! Thanks for sharing!
Your boat is a Monk Sr. Design. The man was a true artist of marine design. Some times I see you working on things that really need two sets of hands and I want to reach out and help. I’m not one that likes to sit back and watch. She’s coming around nicely can’t wait to see the final result. But if you’re like me she’ll never be finished. 😎
Thanks James, Yes, Edwin was a genius. And that coupled with exceptional craftsmanship and superb wood makes for simply astounding craft that are perpetually maintainable. But yes as well, perpetual is the proper term, I will never be finished and I wouldn't have it any other way.
FYI next time get a set of bolts about 8" it longer cut the heads off screw them in and hand your fly wheel on them slid it into place and bolt it in you can do the sane thing for your transmission it will take the weaght off your back
What some fail to remember is Lighting.. yep it loves all the electric components associated in the options mentioned. An EMP explosion could go off an those old diesels will just keep on purring. I've got a 1952 & a 1984 that still love life. Great explanation btw on of to figure hp. for a vessel !
Yes i can understand why you want to wait before replacing the timbers under your new engine another hallout would be necessary with the little leak you have would put you under not a good thing!! Glad your repowering Geordy
Nice to see someone taking the time to think things out Enjoy your restoration project!! You know that Monk won’t let you down And if it happens burp, you’ll know how to sooth it. Confidence On !
In the future, if faced with the problem of a heavy flywheel and a long way to mount it, get 2 bolts a few inches longer than the bell housing, that are the same thread pitch and diameter. cut the heads of the bolts off, and use them as guide rods to push the flywheel into the bell housing and then mount it to the crankshaft. I hope it helps in the future.
Still enjoying your updates/adventures. I really liked your ingenuity in getting the old engine out and the new one in. I know that feeling as I usually work alone and find I have to devise all sorts of crazy approaches, when another pair of hands would make all the difference. But don't you just love it when a plan comes together...……….Keep up the excellent work!!
Hey Peter hope you have the new engine swap finished and with that never run out of fuel because with a diesel engine you will have an air lock and have to fill the fuel filter with diesel so it will prime before you try to start or it won't start!!!! Love the boat keep up the great work!!!
Another winner! really loved the break down of all the engine/power plant options. Your Perkins seems like the ideal choice! Can't wait for the next episode!
I love your last solution of a hybrid system with a genset. That would be great. The last line about affordability, is something we all say most of the time.
It never ceases to amaze me why people hack away at the frames , im suprised you've only one small leak looking at what the've done , you doing the right thing leaving it to haul out , frames will need sistering and replacing or splicing where missing , great work and very informative , keep up the great work and vids
Hooray! You make it installed your engine without damage! I know how that is when come to repower your boat engine can be hassle but you make it whew! I prefer gas or diesel power over electric power. There are many pros and cons but that is the way it is.
It's a little late to help with the flywheel install, but if you ever have to do it again... Get two long bolts with the same thread as the flywheel bolts and cut the heads off. Thread them into two of the crank holes and now you have guide pins to hang the flywheel on.
Hi Peter love the lines on you boat ,your doing a fantastic job restoring her & the quality work is great , you have given me some ideas for my own Jupiter 33 here in N Ireland , it magic to see you giving her a second chance she will bring you many happy years .
love the stick figures. love the explanation…..love geordie just hanging out on the transom waiting. Brought my sons labradoodle to him in baton rouge today. Giant gentle pup…..8 months old. Always look forward to them Sunday morning.
Hi. While you've got the engine out it would be good to make a template of the frames that have been cut away. This would allow the manufacture of sister frames by steam bending or laminating so when you are out of the water you could fit them to strengthen the potential weak point. Great videos. Rgds John.
John, so true! I lamented as I was buttoning her up that I hadn't had the time to do just that. I'm going to rebuild the whole works and add galvanized steel sisters to accommodate the low sump. The trick, as you noted, will be having them fabricated accurately and galvanized in advance.
@@TravelsWithGeordie Hi Peter, I have a boat moored in Apple tree Bay in Sydney Australia. Moored next to me is a cruiser similar to yours. I can send you a picture if you would like it. John
The last part of the vidéo was exactly what i need to know the hull of my boat is also a displacement with a 25 HP atomic 4....before i saw your vidéo my idea was to install a 140 hp engine....(very ....bad idea....now my foot return to the ground........ Thank's for this M.Knowles Marc from the province of Québec Canada
Since watching your vids I've been spending quite a bit of time on my boat. Unfortunately it exists only in my head. Upside is that maintenance is much cheaper and my imaginary cruise to the Caribbean only needs minimal preparation. Cheers.
*sees new video pop up in the to watch field* *squeals like a schoolgirl and not almost middle aged man* *clicks link repeatedly * play dang it play. I really enjoy your documenting of bringing this boat back to life. its a beautiful looking thing. Always wondered why Electrics haven't taken off in motorboats as much, thats for explaining it simply, that its a mathematics issue. And now the countdown vigil to the next video begins
XXL. t shirt would be great.. lol. I want a live aboard retirement after watching you caress that Gem back to former glory. Cheers..planes rule...cheers
Hello - with the report you should be "right on track" with hull speed. I am afraid that the other engine was to much power for the hull. By going to a smaller engine your cruiseing distance should be extended on said diesel. But your engine will have to work for you. It is very good that the time that you are spending on the boat is very rewarding to the general public. My hat is off to you. I can not wait until the next vid on your boat to see the next item that the boat is requiring to be rebuilt. It is a work of love to rebuild a classic.
perkins 4236m are great engines had a pair in my parents boat for over 26 yrs .you will never have a problem with it .the 4236 and 6354 are built on the same design . 4236 are 72 shp .we use 14x12 props at 1-1 ratio . 1 thing to watch for is on the lift pump behind the 10m bolt is a brass gauze the can get clogged over time making u lose power .just needs a clean out .may be a little smoky when cold but should clear when up to temp
Thanks for the update. I admire that you not only planned changing the engine but were actually able to get these heavy beasts out of your boat and into your boat. And all that without sinking it! Hope all continues to go well with the rest of the fitting. PS: I start to understand why you are not too happy about the airplane sounds - these get annoying really fast even when only viewing the videos.
Thanks Thomas. Yes the planes are quite annoying, I live right in the harbour, but there are so many seaplanes. I usually am able to edit out the planes but some scenes can't be reshot.
Looking good... I've seen far more horrendous bilges in my time... it wouldn't be too hard to bridge the cut away frames with some shaped iron work... I've seen quite a few boats with hydraulic drives which are very reliable with the added bonus of being able to put the engine anywhere in the boat
Wow...definately a heap of work is going to happen during the haulout huh? Boat - bust out another thousand In any case, great power swap video, the new diesel looks sweet & once everything is sorted, I'm sure is going to put a smile on your face. All the best, we'll continue to follow your progress. Cheers!
Hello Peter congratulations on producing informative videos with professional application, well done! Years ago I partially restored an Elco 30' with chrystler crowns....and ultimately it was determined that the boat was not fitted with the correct props, pitch. Can you discuss or address, if not already, the syncing of the right prop with engine and boat.....I share your passion for old land rovers as well having networked with the folks at Badger and in vermont and maine.....will table some stories for another thread off line....Thanks, Michael
some electric motors have shafts out at both ends.. so you could install it between the marine transmission and the prop shaft if there is enough room by installing a shorter length diesel engine.. leaving the marine transmission in neutral when running pure electric. its just an option if lengths in the engine bay can be figured out. decades ago there were prototype PM Pancake electric motors in the early 90s.. that had 8" overall shaft lengths.. 23" square cases... 320 HP from 0 to 3600 RPM and 1,000 foot pounds of torque available from 0 to 3600 RPM. they were designed for bus direct drive.. but none were ever available to the public.. i actually had room on my friends to stack two of those between the twin disc transmissions and the prop shaft flange where an adapter shaft had been created by a previous repower.. where gasoline powered V12's had been removed and 6-71's installed. i saw the specs on the original design.. it was like 50 kts with 3 V12's
Forget the solar energy! And I am sure that you have! A common practise by the "unknown few" to cut away structure to fit an engine! My house was hacked away at to fit plumbing etc. Thus weakening the building! If you sister some new lumber into those places it will shore up the vessel for sure!
Peter: As always great content, I watch all your videos and of course subscribe. I have to say I was spooked watching you climb under that engine. That would freak me out. You are the hardest working guy on you tube with no apparent means of income. I need to lighten up, retire and get a boat. Take care, pet Georgie for me and work safe.
Thanks. And yes, I did put an extra safety line on the engine before crawling under. I don't really work all that hard, and I do have a day job, well somewhat. I design custom homes. But as seldom as possible as I'm working towards casting off and developing a mobile career.
The plate thing that looks like a clutch but isn't, is a torsional dampener. It's job is to absorb rotational resonances at various places throughout the RPM range. If you sweep the drivetrain RPM (especially unloaded) you can hear each resonance point as you pass through them - best be avoiding these RPM areas later on, as those springs will be an absolute blur then. If these rotational resonances aren't given a "soft spot" to dissipate themselves at, they result in extremely large forces in the driveshaft universal joints, which will often fail violently with seemingly no warning or reason. If you have a google for "torsional vibration", you will find it is a huge and complex topic.
Wow there's not much left on the 6 beams, they need sister and brothers, or some steel cleats. When I did engine's change it was from 2-5 lt Leyland's that were lent over to gain floor clearance. To Ford 2.5 lt the engine is a lot more compact but gives the same output. The biggest problem was lining up the centre of the engine to the prop shafts, and then getting the mounts to fit, these had to be made on site. They were slightly off so fitted a flexible joint that took the last bit of shudder out. Looking forward to seeing your installation finished.
Yes they were aqua drives, worked very well. For interest check out www.hybrid-marine.co.uk they have a boat drive concept and use Barrus Shite or Beta Marine engines.
I looked at aqua drive too, nice units, might save some noise too. Just not on my budget.I've seen those hybrid Beta Marines, same problem, well and I'm not thrilled with the technology.
Back in the 80's, I did lots of forklift work. Hyster H80's to be exact. They ran the Perkins engines, 4-136. What a great engine they were. Old mechanic's trick here Peter. Make your blood sacrifice to the gods of internal combustion early in the project ( scrapped knuckle or something ) will make things go easier in the future LOL Can't do a big project like this without bleeding LOL And we have got to get you off of that Honey Brown beer, he says tongue in cheek. Might I suggest a Vancouver Island Brewing Dominion Dark Lager, my favorite right now.
Hi Brian, good point on the bloody knuckle. Fear not, I made my sacrifice early on and make regular additional payments to secure my good standing. After all I rebuild Land Rovers too, I'm well acquainted…And oh yes, the factory beer is only for quick celebratory thirst quenching. My current proper beverage is Driftwood brewery's Fat Tug.
Ah yes, the Land Rover. Cool old beasts. Long, long time ago on an island far away, when I was a much younger man, well still a boy really, I had some friends that had a 56. What a beast. But we had lots of fun in it. Beach trips and dune crawling. But the breakdowns, oh yes the breakdowns. That was one of the vehicles that kind of got me started on becoming a mechanic. I just live up the island a bit, will have to make a trip to Vic and we can have a chat over a few frosty beers.
I hate to say this now, but you did it the HARD way. You should have gotten two studs longer than the bell housing is deep and screw them into two opposite holes in the crankshaft, pick the fly wheel up and put it on the studs. All else failing get some threaded rod at the hardware store cut to length.
I wonder if some sort of stainless steel brackets could be used to help support the missing timbers,Great video and I am in agreement on the smaller power in these days of high fuel costs.
Hi Peter, Thanks for the comments, your right ,marine engines are crazy prices, to be honest it’s the couplings that connect to the z drive that’s the issue more than this engine 🤷♂️, have you built up episodes in advance ? Kind Regards Phil🙋♂️🇬🇧
Hi again Phil, I wondered if the bits to that stern drive might be a bit worrisome. I don't edit in advance, cramming Saturday nights.The footage is about 5 months old at this point, working to catch up to real time by the New Year.
