My dad and I swapped pedestals between his 'one owner '48 A and a junker '52 so he could put a wide front end under the good A. When he retired in '08, it brought $4,200!!
@@jonelsonster my friend had a B without the walking beam and a large rock and a hard left turn wedged the rock between the tires and rims and there must have been a blemish on the spindle that snapped off. The JD dealership said they could fix it so they loaded it but the dealer said they didnt have a technition to do the work. So he bought the part and brought it up to my dad and i. Fortunately the hubs and bearings were perfect we got new seals and gaskets and put on the new walking beam. Dads H and HN were great little tractors but as of 1960 they had no walking beams for the H the HN had a single wheel semi floatational that worked great but we couldnt find a new old stock one like it to replace the 2 wheeled H steering post.
That tractor was built to ba a cultivator special and was called an ANH meaning it was was a model A with a narrow front end with high clearance wheels. The are 42 inch wheels on the back I believe and the front was a 16 in wheel which allowed for more clearance when working in tall crops
Yes, my single front tire is a 16" rim. The tire I had on there was a big old truck tire 7.50x16. The rear tires are 12.4x42 and they are crazy expensive compared to 38" rims the normal A's have. But as I've studied it, mine is not a true ANH. The literature calls mine a High Clearance AN. I think the ANH stopped in 1946 or 47... But they are essentially the same thing. Additionally the rear axle housings and drawbars are different. A model AN (or AW) will have an A3271R rear axle housing. Normal A will have A3270R rear axle housing.Drawbar for normal A: AA3843R Drawbar for ANH: AA3848R (has a cross bar where it attached to the back 2 bolts). Production records show 5223 AN tractors produced between 47 & 52 (I think)
@@jonelsonster I have two model b tractors set up like your a. I fixed one of them up and painted it and it turned out good . The other one is done as far as the mechanical goes but I haven't been able to talk myself into buying a set of tires for it . The b tractors use 9.5 by 42 rear tires
I love the power steering on my 70. Sure it's only the single wheel but boy is it nice. Need to replace the flywheel and rebuild the clutch on it and it'll be ready to work.
Can all of Deere’s 2 cylinder tractor’s front ends be changed that easily? I’d like to get a 730 but most of what I can find (and in my price range) are all the narrow fronts. I want a wide front for that tractor. I can get my hands on the wide front at a fairly decent price.
I don't know about the later models, like the 20 or 30 series. But with the letter series, like this A, as long as you have a split pedestal, then switching from one front end to another is pretty straightforward and easy. Getting a slit pedestal can sometimes be tricky.
Maybe someone can help me having trouble with my rolomatic one tire is up in the air and the others on the ground it happened while coming off a trailer what do I need to do to get both Wheels on the ground 620 John Deere
There are some little nubbs cast into the main housing that act as stops to keep the two pivoting arms from over rotating. They could be bound up there... Kinda wedged in place. I'd start by jacking up the front end, taking the wheels off and then visually inspecting for any obvious binding. Then removing the green cast iron covers at the pivots of each arm. Then, under thoe covers are steel plates that hold the arms in place. There is tie wire holding the bolts from loosening. Once you remove those plates, you should be able to slide the arms off the pivot shafts. That should expose whatever the issue is. I have an entire video where I completely disassemble and reassemble the roll o matic mechanism. That should help with reassembly. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out. And be sure to post a comment on what you find the issue to be.
@@jonelsonster I did watch your video and it was very informative it helped me a whole lot I took it apart and some gears are worn off it actually stripped some of the teeth when it came off the trailer I am going to have to buy the right arm so ill probably get both where can I get them from and estimated cost again thanks very good video oh I bought the tractor yesterday boy do I have ?????
@@jonelsonster oh yeah I know it my dad had an old Farmall F12 with the single iron wheel with the center rail on it and the steel cleeted rear drive wheels it being a 1928,29 vintage we also had a 1930s model F14 on 58 inch tall rubber rears with 16 inch dual steer tires grand dad gave us 2 more Farmalls an F20 and a F30 with extra parts and pieces and in those an extra 2 wheeled steer section for an F30 a fortunate part we really needed. Made turning the F12 a whole bunch easier except for the wrist breaking action when you catch a root and it snags the steering wheel out of your hands .
All of them you had running sounded as nice runners. I have a question about your 1948. Does it have petcocks on the bottom of the block and why are they installed there. I have a 1948 that has them on bottom. Two, one for each cylinder.
I'm not an expert here, but from what I understand, when Deere moved to the pressed steel frames in 1947, they moved the compression release petcocks to the bottom of the cylinder block. I can think of 3 reasons why: 1. There wasn't clearance between the walls of the pressed frame and the engine block to keep the petcocks on the side, so they had to relocate them. 2. Having the petcocks on the bottom allows any excess or unwanted fluid that gets into the combustion chamber to drain out completely. This was not possible with the petcocks on the sides of the block. 3. By this point in time, all JD tractors were battery start, so there wasn't much use for reduced compression during startup. So easy access to the petcocks wasn't necessary anymore. This wasn't the case on the older hand start tractors.
@@jonelsonster I was just wondering. On the '52 we ran on the farm there wasn't any petcocks under the block. Drainage was the only conclusion I could come up with. That answered my question there. The '48 I have need much work on it. The engine is seized along with the clutch. It sat for 30+ years with clutch engaged.
