@@robk5865 I had all kinds of issues until I found that tip on RU-vid. It lays out nice now with no orange peeling or other issues. Also dries very fast.
That was a great 'how to video', with my Tamiya paint, I always have two jars of the same colour, one thinned and the other jar, non thinned, I always pre thin with their own thinner and fill the jar up to judt below the top, this is idea eas from Andy's Hobby Headquarters and it works a treat, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia
A little critique if I may... You're getting more "skinning" inside the cup than necessary by backwash mixing the paint/thinner in there. I'm sure you're not having issues and that's why you use this method, but why propagate more potential globs of paint skin schmoo? It can ruin anyone's spray pattern real quick.
No matter what airbrush I use, Iwata Revolution HP-CR3, Iwata Revolution HP-CR, Iwata HP-BH, Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR Plus or the Evolution or what thinner I use I still have trouble with the AK Gen 3 paints, it splatters , blocks up, turns to some horrible gluggy mess in the air brush even using AK 3rd gen thinner. The days I was trying to spray it, it was 35C+so I'm wondering if there's a temperature limit on the paint.
Number one lesson for airbrushing is buy a high quality airbrush. If you start out with a Amazon $30 airbrush you will fail. I've been airbrushing for more than 50 years and the story never changes. Practice, practice and practice is the key to learning. You'll get to the point where you don't even have to think what to do, you just spray away.
Thanks - very useful. Interested in the Iwata Eclipse but all the ones I can see for sale online are marked 'Japan WM' whereas yours is 'Japan z8' - do you know if there is any difference please?
Very good video and explanation regarding paints and thinners to. I have a question: ist true that new atom paints from mig can be deluded with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) just like tamiya paints??
Overall very nice tutorial. I do disagree with removing the needle from the front. I started airbrushing in the late 1970's and learned that anytime you remove the nozzle you are breaking the seal there and inviting air leaking back into the cup and poor spray performance. And if you have cleaned your airbrush properly Before removing the needle, there will Not be any paint either in the paint passages or dried on the needle to cause any problem extracting to the rear. Most modern airbrushes use a PTFE packing/needle bearing and should wipe any soft paint off the needle. Again if properly cleaned before removal there should be only a very slight very wet layer on the needle but mostly just cleaner.
This short but much effective advise "on air-on paint-off paint-off air" helped me a lot to get rid of the splattering. Also to remove the needle out front was a good tip. Thanks mate!
So you can spray solvent base over water base and visa versa thats what I needed to know because I'm a painter for over 20 years and with house paints latex and oil base paints will not work together without priming over with special primers 1st otherwise will have major problems . I bought an airbrush setup like 15 years ago used it a few times then put it away to busy but I just started getting back into it and am about to to an 1/18 scale huey and couldn't find the info anywhere if can paint with solvent for OD Green and use acrylic for everything else since thats what I already have .. please let me know if that is right or should just go buy more and do all with same kind of paints thanks for the info
This was really helpful and thank you. A good accompanying video could be surface preparation and how to get "good" first coat. Also (and apologies for burdening) perhaps how to correct common errors 🌞
I appreciate this video - I have been airbrushing for about 6 years (I self taught myself) and I see that what you just showed confirms that I am doing my painting correctly. Which airbrush and which needle did you use in this video? New subscriber - Henry Clayton, Nothern Calif, USA
hello, i'm thinking about switching to air brushing since i got some time with the brush, and i'd like to start using my own colours instead of those furnished with the model. Would you have any tips, brands or ways to see and acquire those. For example lets say i need green and white and you dont have any. Do you simply go on the desired brands website and order? Maybe it's better to go directly to a modelling store? I think the question is rudimentary but hey here i am and i've got a m2000 waiting to be painted. Thank you very much!
Really informative video , Thank you for taking the time to show us newbies some of the tips and downfalls of airbrushing I do have one question though I tend to use mainly Tamiya paints , but also i have quite a bit of the Vallijo model colours aswell and if the model that in building requires me to mix different paints is it ok to mix Tamiya and say a vallijo if i do not have the exact colour needed in Tamiya but do have equivalent colour in vallijo . Many thanks for your help .
AK real color is pretty dank (the solvent based stuff), it even mixes well with Tamiya and Mr Color (my local hobby shop has a huge selection of AK) but the AK thinner stinks. MLT makes it go on real nice.
What about air compressor recommendations and settings? As someone who hasn't airbrushed before I have no idea what size and psi is appropriate for model work, or what effect the changing of psi has on the paint
Hi great video! When i airbrush my models, no matter how hard i try to to get paint mixture and air pressure right, the paint still kind of specles. Smal dots gets scattered. The airbrush is cleaned with care altough has a couple of years of use now. I know it is hart to guess without seeing the results but am I still doing something wrong or could it be that the needle or nozzle is not smooth anymore?
Great video and some very helpful stuff. After a number of years I have now stuck with the Tamiya acrylic paint for spraying and Vallejo paint for brushing. I also always prime my models with Tamiya rattle can Surface Primer as this seems to stick well to the plastic and also the acrylic sticks really well to the Surface Primer. Without priming I have had the paint wear off the model through touching. It seems to make the paint much more robust. Finally for cleaning the airbrush after the Tamiya acrylics I find Wynns carburetor cleaner superb. It destroys the paint and a large aerosol of it is not very expensive. Its available in most automotive outlets. It does not affect airbrush seals.
Thanks for this tutorial. Very helpful. Perhaps you could also do one on fillers and putties. It is a difficult area for the beginner. I look forward to your next build.
Although I've been airbrushing for years, I still found this really helpful. Distances, PSI and thinning ratio information is extremely helpful. Thanks
I wish someone had gone over the basics about airbrushing when I was starting out a few years ago. You did a good job, Andy. My favorite airbrush is also the Iwata HP-CS. I didn’t know that tip about removing the needle forward vs back. A side note: this is the first time I’ve seen you in person & you’re not what I imagined. In my mind I had you as a thin, nerdy dude for some reason. Ha ha.
Thank you for the lesson really very helpful. Would you recommend tightening the screw behind the needle to help with more control over the amount of paint your spraying
7:03 you might need to clean that air valve. There's probably gunk like old grease or paint stuck on top of the valve rod It shouldn't stick on for that long. Air should be immediate on or off. It unscrews out from the bottom in my HP-CS. Great video.
