I really appreciate this video. I’m a noob to airbrushing and just starting to experience these issues while painting expensive models from GW. This is so helpful! As a noob it’s hard to know what will and won’t hurt the delicate machinery, so this is great! Thanks for talking about the gear fairly, too!
Youte the best teacher on RU-vid. Bringing in a newbie to correct on camera is brilliant. Not all professionals can convey what they do to others. Teaching is in you.
Great tips! I've been using airbrush for months now and lots of tutorials didn't show the flushing through the back for thorough cleaning! Thanks for that! Great clear and detailed technique tips too!
I watched really already alot of airbrush tipp videos didnt thought i could become more usefull tipps. But u did it bro! Great video, could learn alot, thx man!
as a rookie airbrusher.. started year ago painting hotwheels cars. thanks for the informative video. i want to branch out and try more creative painting than just hotwheels cars so thanks for the tips. cheers
I recommend using a make-up sponge to use instead of paper towels for dry tip issues. These things are thick enough to poke without going through and absorbs water/cleaner for longer.
I thought I was the only one doing that it's great for back flowing with certain cone designs. I use them for oil painting on models and minis to so had em right there already. I paint whatever pays lol.
@@dlmdlm7685 same, I would never have thought of it if I didn't have them lying around for oils, but that just seemed the logical thing to use that was sitting on my table.
I can't Thank you enough for your fantastic and extremely helpful tips and advice. I went through some health issues and haven't to relearn fine motor skills with my hands and relearning my hands to use an Airbrush again has been challenging but your helpful tips and advice has helped me tremendously to enjoy Airbrushing again. Everything is new again and it's been challenging but I love it. Thank you again mate and keep yourself and love ones safe and healthy.
Thank you glad you are enjoying the vids, take a look at this beginner playlist as it may help 🤞🏻👍🏻 ru-vid.com/group/PLkd3s0ymmV0OKlXI7wEma4Z4ntvXMs9jv
Great video! Super helpful. I did not know about back-flowing the double action brush. I have frequently experienced that build up on the back of the needle just like you said. Thanks!
Despite airbrushing for more years than I care to admit I still found this video most informative and useful; particularly the use of the ultrasonic cleaner which I use for many things but have never thought of for the airbrush. Many thanks.
Great tips as always, thank you for sharing. I find the chrome finishes on the trigger slippery, I glue a tiny dot of 80 grit sandpaper on the trigger :)
I got an airbrush for the first time about 3 months ago. For spraying a Discovery rocket after years of painting by brush and ballsing it up. It was a Timbertech dual action from Amazon. It worked great and did a great job. I watched a lot of videos and yours were very helpful. Your tips are not tips there skills. People pay attention! if your going to use an airbrush!!!! What I found with my airbrush was for around 4 weeks after I finished I had vibration finger, not sure if its the airbrush or just how I used it as I was using finger compression a lot.
Laughed out loud when for a single brief second you said, "I've seen some people use their thumb!" I was like, haha, thats me! Unless I am using my TRN1 Trigger Style (my favorite airbrush for sure.) Great video and thank you for the tips and tricks. I've been wanting to get into airbrushing since I was young, and I pulled the trigger, (pun intended) about 1 year ago, and have gotten so much help from this channel. Keep up the great work! Thank you.
Instead of pulling out the needle from the back, remove the nozzle (you should remove it anyway for cleaning), and push out the needle from the front then pull out the whole needle. In this case the back of your airbrush will stay clean for longer time, because you don't pull extra paint in the back of your airbrush with this move. When I was new to the airbrush, I also pulled the needle from the back, but then I needed to clean the back of the airbrush more frequently. After I started to pull it out from the front, I barely need to clean the back of the airbrush.
Completely new to airbrushing. I'm doing my first model (P-40B) and doing ok with the Timbertech airbrush, not great but passable. My question is: do I have to break the airbrush down to clean it thoroughly EVERY time I use it, even for just a tiny bit of paint? Or can I just blow it back with reducer and give it a full cleaning every 4th or 5th time? Great video by the way, you highlighted all the things I'm doing wrong that I can improve on, thanks!
Awesome video. I'm just getting into modeling again after a 45 year break. My, my, my have things changed. Good thing I retired because I've got a lot of catching up to do.
Excellent advise. I confess that I don't use my airbrush as often as I should or could, as I get tired of cleaning the thing after each color. I wish there was some easier way to fully clean my airbrushes... (a magical snap of the fingers would be nice.)
Pretty much the same reason I gave up using it in the early 80’s. Well, that and all the mask cutting (I’m terrible at freehanding). In recent years, if I use one at all, it is with water based paints.
A properly running airbrush shouldn't need to be cleaned between colours. Quickly shooting water, alcohol (or solvent, as the case may be) through it and a quick back flushing is all the purging that should be necessary between different colors. A cleaning at the end of a session is a good idea but I don't even always do that if water or cleaner has been run through it after the last color. Maybe I'm spoiled... but for my Paasche AB for fine detail (which is an entirely different animal), I use a variety of Iwata brushes and paints formulated specifically for airbrushing such as Medea/CommArt, and Createx. This likely improves the maintenance and cleaning regimen.
@@davidkoloc1313 Thanks for the advice. I'm always paranoid about cleaning my brushes, But it takes time and effort and discourages me... Perhaps I just need to relax.
@@rrl4245 Yes, do relax. Nothing unfixable is going to unfold. The worst that can happen is the need for a deeper cleaning will result. Do you know how to quickly back flush your airbrush, as I mentioned ? If not and you wanna learn how, let me know, I'd be happy to explain how to do this. It only takes a second and it's something I do often while working, just to keep things flowing alright, especially if I'm using thicker paints. Can I ask what kind of airbrush you've purchased?
@@davidkoloc1313 I do understand back-flushing. I only shoot (modeling) acrylics. and I encounter the biggest problems with tip drying. I do, on occasion find paint dried on my needle, when I pull it out for cleaning. Otherwise, I worry most about paint dried in the cup. In any case, thanks for the encouragement.
Great and very clear tutorial. Thank you. Just for my part I often remain reluctant to insert the needle through the back of the airbrush, but it's just my way to do...
Hey Carsten! Awesome video, definitely listening to all these tips as I just recently picked up airbrushing because of your channel! I do have a video request: blood splatter. I have a piece of artwork in mind, and I want like a splatter of blood across it, and I was wondering ho this could be achieved. Also, how should I clean my templates? Thanks!
Hi, I'm alittle coofused with Tip #4 - Blasting out. Aren't you manualy doing the exact thing that the trigger is normally doing? What is the difference between pulling the needle with your fingers and just pulling the trigger all the way?
I am going to work on a motorcycle helmet. Would I use the same kind of paint you are using and then put a clear coat over top of it? Or should I be using an automotive type paint?
I would like to ask you a question I'm using createx paint to paint RC cars depending on the outside and inside do I need to put some type of additive so that the paint can Flex
I paint rc bodies almost exclusively with createx paints and the key is proper prep and light mist coat then medium cover coats allowing full dry between coats. I prefer using the wicked line but also use the regular createx line and add about 10% 4050 to it to help adhesion.
Thanks for your comment, most of the waterbased colours have no issues when flexing. That said it usually becomes an issue when clear coating, with RC bodies you paint from the inside so your shell is essentially the clear coat, if you wanted to use waterbased colours on something that has flex ie...a snowboard then I would highly recommend adding a flex agent to your clear. Hope that helps. 👍
I recently airbrushed a bomb for an a10 warthog using Tamiya acrylic x-21 flat base. When the paint dried it turned into a powdery paint and rubbed right off. Could anyone tell me what might of went wrong and what I may have done wrong to figure why it did this. It’s the first time I’ve ever airbrushed with this paint. Anyone info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I just bought iota eclips, I can only spray for about 30 40 seconds and then it stops. There is still a lot of paint in the cup so I clean it and works again. But the problem starts again soon after. Is this normal? I reduce the paint, it seems to happen more often when I use pearls. Any help is welcome. Thanks!
Personal the most important thing one needs to know is how to clean the airbrush. A dirty improperly cleaned airbrush is a nightmare to use and will cause hours of frustration.
Yep they most certainly are but often overlooked 🤦 yes Dru Blair is an incredible artist, I have been fortunate enough to host him here in Australia for 3 years of courses 🙏🏻 he is also a very humble and great guy .
@@AirbrushAsylum true! My biggest problem is build up and spitting during close detail work,I constantly run solvent thru the brush but it keeps happening, should I work with the tip cowl off?
The last 1 I disagree..... if you pull the needle from the back you are spreading ink to the back of the airbrush AND when you put it back you should do it from the front so the tip be more protected
That " keep air at all time " tip is what i needed. I was painting in bursts ( like a lot of tutorials shows) and i had a lot of splatters and didnt know why. Awesome video, thank you !
I'm making a model 1/12th scale motorbike for a friend. The custom paint job is nearly done but I just get the last part finished. I don't want to put a picture on the internet as it will spoil the surprise. Can I send you the picture of it? If so where to?
Thanks, saving this video for later; been binging some of yours and other airbrusb videos for when I get my airbrush kit. Can't wait to start airbrushing 🤟🏼
I got my airbrush (Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2-in-1) about two weeks ago. Thanks to binge watching this channel before I bought it, whenever beginner problems crop up I know how to deal them. Thank you so much for sharing you knowledge and expertise, without it I would be just sitting there staring at a shiny tool, wondering "How does that bloody thing work?"
Thanks so much for your comment and kind words, even though I don't use H&S I know they are fantastic airbrushes. Glad my videos have helped and really appreciate you watching my content all the very best 🙌
In house painting I am at times needing to take parts and pieces of to paint using airbrush on an item hanging on wire would work better with the air brush instead of a regular paint brush. Am thinning down the oil paint but still have issues. If keep thinning down it gets to very little paint more thinner . Any advise for using oil paints ? Thank you !
If you need to use an airbrush to apply then run your paint thicker and use an airbrush with a 0.5mm or larger needle / nozzle setup. Turning up the PSi will also help to propel thicker paints through your brush. Hope that helps.
All airbrush brands are good from expensive to medium price to low price airbrushes are very good. Just use half paint and half reducer or add alittle extra more reducer. Set your air pressure from 32 psi or up to 50psi for thicker paint. For fine lines add alittle more reducer to your paint and use 27psi
do you have a special room set up in your house for airbrushing. I hear there is a lot of overspray. I'm wondering if a person requires air exchange, wear masks etc.
I use a spraybooth from Belkits, depending on what color I use - yes, I do use a respirator (mask) from 3M. Mainly use Ammo by Mig Jimmenez colors for plastic. What I tend to do is, I have a bit of clear acrylic, I spray on that first to see how the color would look like. Something that is good with a spray booth, is that it has a fan, so it takes all fumes and you connect it to a window - so it all goes out there..
I find rocking the trigger on my H&S Ultra quite uncomfortable; I've been trying to let the trigger forward after I spray but it's a strain on my finger, so I just release it and _then_ give it a quick puff of air. I've tried three different makes of airbrush and it always feels completely natural to just let go of the trigger button. I don't know what single-action airbrushes are like, but the dual-action airbrushes I've tried are too stiff; pressing for air is stiff and pulling back for paint is stiff - and on the H&S there's very little travel between minimum to maximum, which also puts strain on my finger. I noticed that after a while the strain builds up in my wrist and starts to go up my arm all the way to my shoulder.
Fair enough, if that works for you then thats great. If you want to loosen the trigger tension then try unscrewing the handle and the rocker assembly has a section which screws into the housing of the airbrush, if you wind this out, you will allow the spring to open up and loosen the trigger throw and if you wind it in then you tighten the spring giving you a tighter throw on your trigger action. Hope that helps. 🤘
@@AirbrushAsylum I tried out your advice on my cheap unbranded airbrush and it works a treat, but my Harder & Steenbeck Ultra has so little screwthread at the back that no adjustment is possible. I think it was designed like that on purpose for some reason - mysterious German engineering. Being a bit frustrated I did some searching on the internet and found a tip about cutting the spring short - I didn't want to do that on my H&S so I cut the one from my cheap airbrush to size. It works. 🙂 I've been playing around with my newly modified H&S this morning and the difference in the feel of the airbrush is extraordinary, it's a different airbrush, it's much more comfortable to operate, and now I'm doing it the same way as you, returning the trigger manually instead of letting it spring back. While I was at it, I discovered a new technique - probably one that a million people know already but it's new to me: for fine detail (I'm painting models and miniatures), I'm pulling the trigger back just enough to "load the tip" and then using _just_ the air until the paint or ink runs out, and then repeat. A bit like dipping an old-fashioned fountain pen. Thankyou AA, for a cracking excellent tip.
I don’t do a lot of airbrushing but I found that to be a bit of a problem as well. In the end I bought a cheap AB with a “handgun” type trigger. I find it much easier to use.
Can anyone tell me what is the best way to blend in brush strokes(that are more opaque)? I fixed some edges with a brush, but now they are muuuch more opaque/dark then the airbrushed figure body that i have airbrushed before, used same color(leftover from airbrushing)
The best thing you offer is never let up on the air. That's pretty much universal with any double action gun. Probably the best tip I could offer anyone as well.
Does removing needle from behind with paint in airbrush make mess behind paint container? I prefer removing dirty needle from nozzle side too have less cleaning in rear side of an airbrush
