5 Tips for Saving Money as a Modeller! | Quick Guide 

A pro tip from modelling products manufacturer regarding white spirit guys! Always look for low aromatic (dearomatized) white spirit. Study the labels when in doubt. The thing is the higher the aromatics content the stronger the solvent but high potency white spirit will attack paint coats even acrylic ones. When in hardware store there are many types to choose from and you may stumble upon industrial strength types which are OK for contractors but not us modellers - twice the dead ache and paint gets attacked if you pick too strong a kind. Happy modelling! Chris

For those in the US, cellulose thinner is called lacquer thinner on our side of the pond. White spirits is also known as mineral spirits.

I buy sets of pastel chalks and use them instead of powdered pigments sold by modeling suppliers. They're very inexpensive and can be blended to any color you need. Rub them over a bit of screening or wire strainer to make powders.

The best way to save on kit expenses, and by far the most effective way to cut your modelling costs, is to stop hoarding a stash :) Even though they may be over-priced, I find my consumables to be but a drop in the ocean of money I've poured on kits I never get around to build. But, that's probably just me 😇

Brilliant tips . As a returning modeller I has been shocked at the cost of modelling products. Many thanks

You can also use Tamiya Air Brush Cleaner as Tamiya Extra Thin. It's the exact same product but a 5th of the price.

Lovely stuff. Thanks for sharing these money saving tips.

Excellent tips, thanks for sharing!

This was very helpful! Thanks for sharing this.

One tip I learned from MarklinofSweeden was to purchase one sheet of corrugated plastic for your scale. Then use it as a mold and apply Elmer's glue on top (a generous coat) and wait for it to dry. Then peel off the sheet of glue and use it as you would the plastic corrugated plastic. Cheers from eastern TN

I liked most of these, but one to carefully consider is buying kits off eBay or Amazon etc: Yes they may be cheaper, but check the postage and taxes. It might be cheaper to use your local model shop if you have one. Even if it’s not, I’m happy to pay a premium of 10-20% on a kit to keep the shop open so it’s there when I need it. I understand not everyone will be in this position, and cost will be a major factor in their decisions, but I’ll give a few examples of why local is better: 1) you get a “short shot” kit where the plastic has not filled the mould properly.-Early Airfix Sea Fury kits had this problem a couple of years back.- Who’s going to look after you better? The local model shop, or the seller in China/India/America on eBay? - in many countries you’re expected to deal with the seller not the manufacturer in claims like this. What happens if you buy this kit from a private seller on eBay? You can raise a dispute, but if they sell it as unopened NOS and sold as seen, you’re on a hiding to nothing. 2) In Australia, lay by is really common in the retail sector. Can’t afford what you want?, minimum of 10% down, and you have between 6 weeks and three months to pay it off with regular payments. - timeframe depends on the store. I know you can use Afterpay and the like, but they don’t let you skip a week or make a half payment because the dog was sick, or you needed to replace punctured tyre on the car. Don’t take the piss, and build a relationship with the shop. I now have three local shops that are happy to order stuff in for me and put it on lay by, are happy to be a little “elastic” with the time frame in paying the kit off depending on its value, and let me phone them up and make payments on items on lay by when I can’t get into the store. 3) As mentioned above, the shops I deal with are happy to order stuff in for me, and if it’s not from a supplier they deal with, they will look at alternatives. EG: Heller don’t seem to have an official importer In Australia, but I want several of their kits, and one shop is happy to look into this, and will buy within the trade from another country or do the sums and see if it’s worth them becoming an official importer. 4) Local shops can be a ready source of help and advice, or even discounts. One of the ones I use has several staff who are members of the state modellers association, others who are into the R/C car or aircraft clubs, and they offer a 10% discount to members of these clubs. I make my annual club membership fees back several times over. 5) When you really need that pot of paint/tube of glue/masking tape TODAY! they are there. None of this paying extra for a prime membership to get it tomorrow* (*terms and conditions apply, it might actually be a fortnight on Thursday until it arrives. If you don’t live in the city) DON’T GET ME WRONG! I’m not saying don’t use eBay, I use it myself for stuff I can’t get In Australia. What I’m saying is if you CAN use a local model shop, please do so as much as possible. If you don’t have a local shop, or it’s too far away to get to easily (I’m going bush soon, so my nearest shop will be 200km away) then please consider using a bricks and mortar store in your area/country over a drop shipper or on line only place that might not even be in your country. Keep people in jobs, and they will keep you in models!

Thank you for your informative and helpful videos. I particularly wanted to thank you for your clear articulation and concise explanations in clear well pronounced English. Thank you Alan

What a great video!! So many tips here that I didn't know about. Nice work!

Great! Thank you so much for sharing these money-saving tips with us. I can definitely use them.👍

Great work, was not aware the cellulose thinner could be used as cement. But I do have a job lot of that and isopropyl for cleaning my airbrush, depending on what paint I'm using. Also, eBay for anything and everything. Tools, paints, kits, even stuff outside of the hobby. It takes 2mins to check prices on there before jumping one way or the other

IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner is absolutely amazing. I clean my glass pipettes there along with the airbrush and everything always works like new.

I hope you found at least some of the tips useful! Thanks for watching!

Some fantastic tips here! Many thanks for sharing!

I recently bought a "pre owned" hobbyboss 1/18 me262 from kingkit at basically half the retail price just because the box had a few creases! Absolutey bargains to be had on here guys! 👍

IPA is something i have indeed been using to clean my airbrush (and a thinner on occasion). White spirit is my go-to for enamel and oils as well :D Scalemates is the MVP of modelling research too lol

Great video my friend. Best money saver video I have seen. Thank you

Excellent suggestions. Thank you!

IPA can be further diluted in water for airbush cleaning. 50-50 watered down practically retains its properties. Very good tips.

Tamiya airbrush cleaner is the same as extra thin but about 6 times cheaper by volume. 🙂

Thank you! Very interesting video!

Pure gold, sir! 🙂

Tip number 6 would be if you need ABS plastic based putty/filler, just take mustard glass jar with good seal metal lid, wash it, put in some ABS scraps for instance broken to beyond repair appliances in your chosen color and pour in acetone. Let it sit for couple of days depending on size of the peaces, mix it and add ether plastic or acetone to get consistency you want. Its better to put on thin coats but you can put thick coat and use lighter to burn the acetone off but it will puff out since outer surface hardens trapping the vapors acetone so needs to pressed back in, but it has worked wonders in some projects. If it dries too much just add acetone back and here we go again after few days of dissolving. Acetone is dirt cheap and plastic is free so there is nice essentially free putty to use.

Excellent tips. Thanks for sharing.

I also buy IPA in larger volumes for all sorts of stuff, like cleaning electronics PCBs or modelling stuff. IPA is also extremely efficient at removing hot glue. Aceton is also widely used to weld ABS together.

Very interesting video, thanks! I've also seen that the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (I think it was Cleaner?) is the same thing as the liquid cement, due to them having to put the chemical sheet and it's basically identical.

I'm english and I never knew about Kingkit! Nice tips! Hannant's is a pretty good store too, and Wonderland Models for UK based people!

Good concise advice - thanks.

Total Awesomeness, Thanks!

I like your studied approach to saving money on supplies. They all make good sense to me and I will be trying them. I subscribed. Best wishes from the hills of Virginia, Cork and Family

Very interesting and useful tips! You have a like and a new subscriber!

Excellent information .

Thak you so much! Very Nice Tutorial

Perfect video, extremely helpful. Thanks a lot for sharing )

At least for U.S. buyers, be aware we have a couple of choices in purchasing IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol), a 70% solution, and a 90%+ solution. The stronger stuff is better for thinning and airbrush cleaning, but the cheaper 70% stuff is fine for general de-greasing wipe-downs. Hope this is helpful to someone!

Great video and thanks for the tips!

IPA is also good for cleaning model railway wheels and track, as well as helping break up surface tension when ballasting. Also, extra-hold hairspray works as a good replacement for layering spray when doing scenics like Static Grass.

My fav DIY airbrush cleaner recipe I got from airbrush artist: By weight: 600g of winter windshield washer fluid (amona free) 300g distilled water 100g IPA 40 drops of glycerin. Works like a charm

What a great video. Buying kits from model shows and swaps meets is also a great way to save money. I once got an airfix 1/48 meteor at one for 25 bucks (14 pounds)!

Great video and some brilliant tips 👍

Great info, thanks for sharing, I am getting back into modeling and every dollar saved means more kits!

Very nice tips to save some money. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the great tips

Great video, most interesting . Have subscribed 👍

Great tips. IPA is good stuff. Had no idea about the option for Tamya's extra thin. Cheers!

If you go through a lot of isopropyl you can go to farm supply stores and buy it by the 2 litre jug for super cheap.

Thank you gonna take some of these tips onboard

Just found you and subd! Great channel and builds. Thanks for the tips!

Thank you this was super helpful ^_^

There are many benefits to supporting your favored hobby shops, at least for a portion of your needs. They can frequently help you out when you are in a bind. The chemicals which we use in our hobby are often - but not always - a small cost relative to the purchase of kits, paints, and scenery supplies. That said, the thinners for acrylic painting are marked up a great deal, and especially if you are spray painting large surfaces, or are building large objects from acrylic / ABS, you can save some money by venturing into the world of other sources for your chemicals, including the plastics supply houses that support the trophies and sign making businesses. NOTE: While we *typically* use small quantities that need only some basic safety precautions, these are industrial chemicals (as are many other household products) and they need to be treated with respect, because they can make you very sick, injure you badly, or even kill you in some unpleasant fashions if you are careless or stupid... or ignorant... chemistry and physics don't care about you, you need to take care of them. Commercial acrylic paint thinners for airbrushing are typically grain alcohol (ethanol) - denatured with a bit of methanol (wood alcohol) in the USA, diluted with deionized water, and given a couple of drops of liquid dish detergent (sodium dodecyl sulfate) as a surfactant to promote wetting. You absolutely do *NOT* want any oil based lubricants in your airbrush, as they will ruin your finish on your painted parts. You can use drug store grade rubbing alcohol - 70 % by volume isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol, IPA (but not India Pale Ale!), iPOH to clean your airbrush without ill effect unless the manufacturer is using unusual rubber compounds in the O-ring seals. 70% iPOH also works well as a thinner for acrylic paints when you want a flat/matte finish, as on a military camouflage pattern. 91% or more iPOH does a very good job of stripping acrylic paints without damaging styrene plastics, although it might damage acrylic (PMMA, Plexiglas, Perspex) so proceed with caution. When solvent welding ABS or straight up acrylic plastic - or joining the two, as is often done when working with Plastruct shapes, you need a solvent which contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane) your basic styerene solvents which are mostly acetone will not swell (soften) these polymers, although they are safer to use, and quite good for plain polystyrene of HIPS (the clear PS resin used quite often for windows and aircraft canopies). Lacquer thinner in the US contains various petroleum distillates, including xylene, or at least it did. A custom painter working at my nearest - and favorite - model train store died for illness caused by breathing in too much lacquer paint and thinners from airbrushing without a fume hood or respirator rated for organic vapors. Back more than 20 years ago... the hobbyists just didn't know any better then. He also didn't wear solvent proof gloves, and routinely cleaned his hands with lacquer thinner.

Thanks for the tips. Let me do one addition, not only check Scale Mates for the cheaper shop, but also one cheaper of the history of the tool. A lot of the production tools were often sold between the kit producer. Sometimes you find kits much cheaper in a shop by an old producer, than if you will buy it by the actuel producer.

You can also use the IPA alcohol to wash and de-grease your models before painting OR to remove screwed up paint. Works best on acrylics. Enamels need to be fresh, otherwise they won't was off.

Great tips! Thanks for sharing. 😎🇨🇦

Wow!! I am a returnee after some 45 years so a newbie really. This was such an insight …..thank you Bob England

If you mix 50/100 windex/Glass cleaner 50/100 iPA and use instead of expensive cleaners for airbrushing,brushes cleanup,paint spill"acryllic only" and area cleanup and tidiness. I also use a mix of 60 percent IPA 20 H2O and three drop of glycerin instead of buying airbrush thinner works with all acrylic paint but a few.

Another thing I been doing now is buying artist acrylic paint instead of airbrush paint by those big company. It is so much cheaper with the volume and I honestly can't feel any difference. Easily thin down with some home made IPA thinner that I learned from other RU-vid video. Grips on my resin kit strong without problem

Excellent ideas thankyou

I found screen wash for cars a good airbrush cleaner - an old plastic milk container with water and screen wash does a great job on acrylics

I get the liquid latex from hobby craft for making my casing moulds I've got bottles of it takes ages to go off though so wouldn't use it for masking! It's the same bottle same stuff

Welcome back, Quick Kits! Long time no see (or hear).

I also have another tip, avoid Revell products, especially the kits 😂😂😂

Really old school tricks and tips, no news here. Using cellulose thinner as a glue has been there for ever. BUT, no, it's not as strong as Tamiya extra thin, it doesn't have the same grip, specially at first, while extra thin not only dries quickly, it does grip since the beginning. If you're ok with that go ahead, but you have to know all the facts and how differently those works. And very important, liquid latex masks rots over time... I've never bought such a big bottle of masking liquid as shown there, always 17ml bottles, and yet they do rot over time, you don't use that much all the time so it rots in the bottle. Sometimes it's already rotten in the bottle when you buy it because plain shelf time. It works despite the stinkiness of it (if it's not dried...), but a smelly job it is to mask with rotten latex. If you buy the bigger bottle, 1 litre of rotten liquid latex has to stink really well... bear that in mind.

Another to add to the discussion. Go to the local automotive supply store. The various sand papers for working with car bodies is great. Dense sponges, soft - backed sand pads, blocks, and high quality sheets in all grades. If you need a specific shape or "stick" just super-glue it to some cheap metal stock. Many of the types are perfect as is. Buying the various sticks to me is lesser quality. This is a boat-load less expensive too.

Thanks for a great video! Definitely going to try some. Only thing I found is that white spirits from the hardware store can be too hot for some paints. You can get “artist white spirits” which is more expensive but less hot and works better. It’s still cheaper than the “special” hobby brands and 0.5L will last quite a while… 👍

You can also thin Tamiya paints with IPA.

modelling cement is pretty much mostly acetone, which you can buy by bulk from hardware stores. if you find your regular cement drying up, you can add this solvent to it until it's back to the regular viscosity IPA is great for regular paint but NOT metallics, the polar nature of the alcohol will cause problems with the metallic particles, use modeling thinners (which is toluene if you can find them)

Thanks for this.

Good stuff, cheers.

An excellent substitute for liquid glue is also the MEK (MethylEthylKetone). Chip, fast and durable bonding. Is also excellent cleaner for use on brushes, airbrushes and tools. Dilutes also modelling puttys very well.

Thanks for the tips 👍

For those of us in the US, more names for white spirits. Also known as mineral spirits, mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, and petroleum spirits

Great video, all about saving money, i can put my savings toward another kit, oh ya

I had a friend in the chemical business, he got me a 10 gallon pail of IPA back in 1984. Still using it. But Scalemates does NOT show every model ever produced. Close but not all. I've sent them updates on several old ones I have in my stash to update their database. If you have something they don't list, send them the details and they will add it to their DB.

I buy good quality artists acrylics, then thin them down for use. They seem to leave a smoother finish than model specific acrylics. That and I save the plastic cans from the zyn snus I use to be recycled as paint pots.

Now, if you can find a reasonably priced alternative for the w-a-a-a-y over priced Tamiya 10ml paints, especially the acrylics

I've been using lacquer thinner and/or acetone or solvent mixes for years. The problem I have, and have always had, is fine application. I always manage to get too much, and then there are fingerprints, and/or melted styrene to contend with. I had bought a "touch n flow" at one time at a model show, never got around to using it, then found out the needle was bent, and there was a vacuum bulb that was supposed to go with it that I didn't have, and just haven't gotten around to doing any research to find another, if they even exist anymore. Most of what I work on now is resin figures, so using solvents is almost a moot point. But I do have some styrene kits to get going on, so I need something.

Good stuff. By the way, Tamiya's extra thin plastic cement is 100% the identical content to its Airbrush Thinner. I don't know how it compares to cellulose thinner in regards to price, but their airbrush thinner comes in a big bottle and is like three times cheaper per volume than the extra thin.

Well, a simple thank you is not enough, but wow, thank you sir!

IPA is great to break down the tension of liquid, like paint. But it's hard on brush bristles, drying them out. Use cheap brushes when using it.

Good tips. In Australia isopropyl alcohol can be a bit expensive but Bunnings sell a product called “Shellite” which is basically zippo lighter fuel at a fraction of the price, works great for cleaning your airbrush if you paint with acrylics and many other uses including lighter fluid 😂

First tip is the winner for me as I usually build something rc related in styrene, which is the same material as in model kits. Now I'm looking up who sells cellulose thinners in my area 🙂

@0:35 as a good substitute for Tamiya extra thin, you can either buy a can of Tamiya Airbrush cleaner, which is almost exactly the same. Or buy a can of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone)

Brilliant tip on cellulose thinners as glue! Personally, I've found Tamiya extra thin to be very weak.

Thanks much!

Some great tips, many years ago I did use M.E.K, Methal Ethal Ketone ( I think that's correct, I did have four litres at one time, but gave it away when I moved overseas.

One of the greatest saving to me is using automotive pu paints.. can buy loose quantity as 50 ml.. costs 20 Rupees.. another greatest advantage is thousands of shades.. and original shades as Ferrari red, neon orange, Rivera blue etc.. once completed it lasts for lifetime..

If anyone is ever in doubt about the products they’re using, more so industrial solvents etc, then it’s best to refer to COSHH, or the manufacturers safety data sheets. Over the years I’v used many different kinds of solvents and alcohols, the odours never bothered me, as they’re always used in open or well ventilated environments. However, I found that using the same products at home, albeit in much smaller quantities, can have the fumes running right through the home. I can assure you, wives can get very irate...🥴

I purchased a gallon of 99% Isopropyl alcohol for less then twenty dollars at a hardware store close to me and I also use denatured alcohol for many clean ups. Including cleaning brushes when I use acrylic paints. I also find that swap meets or hobby trade shows are good for being able to buy hard to find kits.

My tips: Pay for Winsor Newton Brushes they are worth the long term saving of constantly buying cheaper brands . Including one type with a white handle that is shit. Source all your work tools like side cutter, files pliers , drill bits and Hand drills from a Hardware store , same things we see for gamers and modellers are SO MUCH CHEAPER! . Actually while in there get acrylic paint for terrain , primers and Matt/satin/Gloss varnishes and glues like PVA in big bottles. Also source fine gravel , stones . Instead of Popular Paint Brands gaming variety look for an Artist shop for Acrylic Medium in large 500ml -750ml Jars that adds more viscosity to Paint and helps keep citadel pots (an over priced brand ) stay wet. You can find wet pallets and XActo knives in the store too. I would safely believe you could get the equivalent of a Free kit in coin you save from changing where you shop -away from Gaming sites. Lastly Save money from not buying Citadel - its a con job . Lots of other brands cheaper while having more millilitres

I use a gas duster (for computer keyboards) for cleaning the airbrush. A good blast helps move any residue out of the brush as a final clean.

A modeller after `me` own heart, adhesive's, thinners, tools and whatever are only as good as the hands that wield them. Try spraying/thinning (as if its not thin enough) Humbrol (before the fire it was `Magic` paint,) with cellulose and artists oils too. In addition speed up oil paint drying times, use Terebine dryers. Finally store tins and jars upside down to save evaporation of carrier solvent. Take care.

Petrol lighter fluid works as white spirit aswell if you run out amd have a bottle in your cupboard use it! Works great

In Canada we can get Methyl Ethyl Ketone at Canadian Tire. I haven't used "model" glue for years.

If you use alcohol to clean your airbrush, be sure to rinse it out afterwards with soapy water. The residual alcohol will dry and crack any rubber seals in your airbrush if you just leave it.

Another tip from me: to rescue your hardening Tamiya superglue by adding some acetone into the container. Haven’t tried how it bonds, though.

Very informative and much more helpful than youtubers that shill for hobby products.