Kaiweets sent me the KC601 and KC602 to test out for you guys and honestly it doesn't disappoint and I can definitely say I like them. www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CD7XH9 #diagnostics #autorepair #kaiweets
I am very impressed with both your technical and teaching abilities. Because of the credibility you’ve earned with me I just added the clamp to my cart. BTW I am trying to mimic your calm demeanor. I’m from the north so it’s not easy 😢. Good job and thank you
Nice testers. You've proven how well they work. I need something like that. Quick and easy. Quick diagnostic check. I was thinking, put a cable from Bat Neg to the stud on the body brace where the ground wires were located. Ground is ground at that point. Just my suggestion. Thank you for the video and the tool test.
I own their other multimeters, and so far, I like them. In the end, when you checked 120 volts, you were supposed to hold the clamp end tip near the wires and not the bottom, real handy when you plug a tool in and it doesn't work you grab that put next to wire and yep current or no current going to tool or outlet.
Mister You must measure voltage diference between engine block and chassis when engine running. And between - pole of battery and engine block and chassis too. It must be in 100 milivolts or less i think. Good ground is first think in car.
Last time I had a bad batch of batteries from interstate. Couples came back for no start. Check everything even battery drain. I ask questions to the customers if they experiencing this problem before they said no. I hate when you get bad parts cause it makes u think “ what did I miss diagnose “. Chasing your tale like a cat. Customers look at you like you don’t know what your doing cause the parts store said batt is good They come with a list of possibilities that the parts store gave them and tell you to go by that list. So I tell them I need I least a week to check this items. The worst one I saw it on you tube. They tell to watch that video to fix there car.
You know you’ve hit the big time when companies send you free stuff. Next you’ll be receiving an invite to appear on one of those sBravo shows (don’t fall for the trap!). 👍🏼
My alternator did this to me on my Tundra after accidentally hooking it up backwards while jumping another vehicle. It would intermittently just kill the battery even while driving then after a jump,run absolutely normal.
I’m pretty sure for reading non contact voltage you put that little part on the front of the clamp against the live wire or wall plug you’re checking for voltage on
Where the cable enters the handle of the test probe, have you tried pulling the cable out? Often there is a banana plug on the end of the cable, a desire you and I would like to have. Having a banana plug also allows one to connect an alligator clip. OK, now I'll review the rest of your video - Jim
Kaiweets makes decent stuff, nice they sent you some to check out. NCV is Non-Contact Voltage detection. Has a sensor or uses the CT / Hall effect in the tip to detect voltage, like a tik-tracer and usually only detects AC, not DC. EDIT: I see you mentioned it at the end..... Usually has to be on separated wires, since the two wires together cancel out the EMI. Still picks up, as you shown, but with a panel of individual wires they work better. But, only for quick tests, not to determine if something is safe to touch. The Flukes that have the non-contact voltage level have a pad on them you have to touch with a finger. So it has a reference to ground to determine potential. Not sure if those do. May be fun to stick by an alternator and see what it shows.
Very helpful ! I’m always interested in tool reviews . And great auto repair lesson !! By the way ; the wealth of information in the comments section / community is tremendous and a lot of fun too !!
i tell you man this is one of those tools you look at and think yeh it’s ok but do i need it . then you get in and think how did i get on without it. i have had a similar version for a few years now and i find it so useful. you can grab it out the box chuck it straight on a car a get some readings going very quickly and still use your multi metre elsewhere to measure other stuff . one of those tools you don’t really need it if you have a clamp but it just takes the hassle out of breaking out your leads and metre and clamp 🤪
I have the HT208D from Amazon for $90.00 and love it !!…checked current vs my Pico Amp Clamp and my Fluke…thermocouple is accurate and like the inrush current feature.
I'm in the middle of watching this but I have to comment now before I forget to lol how is it in direct sunlight? I had a meter with led like that and couldn't see anything outside with it, worked great indoors but...I have it away
I got the AstroAI cm4KOR .. It's a full on multi meter and it has AC/DC current clamp also. Looks very similar to these. It works great for only being like twenty-three dollens at the time. Now it's almost forty. I believe the NVC on mine (voltage sniffer) -- is built into the clamp also. Yours may be the same way; you might check in the book. I bet these things are all built in the same factory and just sold under different names. They look oddly the same.
If The vehicle comes back for another battery u can do a voltage drop test with the cable on the transmission and then move it to the frame. Idea for ur next video
Wonder if the ncv function would be good to use on hybrids down at the ac compressor or at the inverter before you go reaching around in there after pulling the safety plug
Today's batteries are made from recycled lead. I have come to situations where I have installed as many of 3 new batteries on a car without leaving the shop .Now, I always test new batteries beforehand
Good for you, Jake! It means you reached a notoriety level, that you totally deserve! Interesting amp clamp multimeters. I think the H is to hold the measurement with variable measurements. I wonder if you still have a long return for the battery circuit - that ground strap carrying 8A seems suspicious. But, like Eric O. says, "it's a Jeep thing" :-)
@@autodiagyt Yep, I know that and agree with what you said, but what I meant is that there may be another return that became resistive, making the strap the least resistance return. I also agree with your assertion that the strap getting hot will increase resistance, which will make it hotter and more resistive, in a vicious circle. A full check of the return grounds and a temperature measurement of the strap, with the car running (perhaps using the new amp clamp multimeter), could give a hint of what's gong on there. But if Jake is satisfied with the current solution, who am I to argue 🙂
My battery would test good if the tester was only measuring CCA. I don’t know if your tester does a full load test, but most do a pretty poor job. Tested mine at 5 places and the CCA measured was between 700 and 80. The crazy thing is, the place with the most thorough tester was Walmart… Also NVC is good for testing wall outlets to see what’s live and not.
Ncv is non contact voltage test, beeps when near live voltage. But what alls it got on it then? Capacitance, inductance, ac and dc volts and amps? Does it got a megger? Ohm rating.. looks like a decent cheaper meter but if it had all that stuff itd be an excellent meter.. if was accurate..
I like my old TackLife the best, It has been a great meter, but they no longer sell them on Amazon and eBay has some, but only the AC amp clamp ones. I also got a Plusivo it is very similar to the Kaiweets. One thing that drives me crazy about it is it doesn't remember that you had it set for DC Amps, and it defaults to AC every time. I was diagnosing a fuel pump drawing to much current a few videos back and it kept blowing 20 amp fuses but it said it was drawing like 5 amps. Then I realized, crap it was set to DC. It was actually drawing 22-23 amps.
Great video, i love your troubleshooting approach. Curious which tester leads you use. I’ve been looking for a reliable aligator clip version for a while now.
The NCV is normally used to check wall plugs and circuit breakers but i like to use it for coils and injectors. Quick way to see it is atleast electrically correct.
shouldn't the ground cable to the block and to chassis be the same size i was told that years ago when i had a 1st gen cummins truck they said main problem with most vehicles was the grounds should be as large as the positive wheter going to engine or chassis
Nice show and tell video. Picked up one of their DVOM. meters and it is also pretty good. Is that amperage on a ground wire normal ? Just wondering if amperage coming out should be close to amperage going back. Just tell me maybe my thinking is out of wack Lol. I could have a dead spot in my own brain. Thanks for sharing 😊
One thing I'd like to see you review is the OWON TAO3104A. There is only one video on all of youtube about it; and the guy said that they sent it out to him. I bet you could easily get one if you just called them. People are sleeping on this oscilloscope. It has 14 bit vertical resolution like a pico, but comes in a tablet form like the Micsig style scopes... but for quite a bit less.
i find it strange you are still running amps through that web strap after relocating the other cable and that both negatives dont mirror the positive. thats why i've always favored volt dropping loaded cables. good old carbon pile for the win.
Not all of them. I had their top of the line Super Start in a Cavalier and it was in use for 9 years and it would still start the car fine but it was winter and I just changed it out because of the age.
As much as I appreciate the video, I would really prefer you read the manual, off camera, before you start guessing on how to use the meter. That way you'd know all the features and limitations.
I'm at the 12:40 mark. When I get a vehicle that has multiple batteries put in and I see they are super street batteries. I don't care what else is wrong with the vehicle. It is getting a better battery before I will do anything else. Those batteries are complete junk and no one's going to ever change my mind on that.
