This 2020 GMC Yukon XL came in with a very bad parasitic drain that was over 5 amps! Follow along as I figure out what's killing this battery in a matter of hours. It was a pretty fun diag and repair.
I absolutely love the way you describe exactly what you are thinking and the way you use logic to track down the problem. Thank you very much for this invaluable information.
One of the best, if not the best informative videos I’ve seen. Every step you took was clear and easy for a person to follow, which is not always the case with some videos on RU-vid. Look forward to watching more of your video!👍👍👍👍👍
Sir Very nice explanation and information ,I did have a similar case on a 2022 GMC that was draining the battery in 1 hour ,consuming around 10amps the problem was the ground on the frame,the modules went on and off,just remplace the terminal for a cooper one and fix the problem 4 months ago...
You are the man braddah 🤙🏽. My friends 2018 Yukon XL battery dies soon as he parks for an hour, brand new battery, been dying out since he bought it new. It even shut down on the freeway while driving. I'm not a certified mechanic, but my late father was, and I know enough, but was just searching for common GM parasitic drains. It really can be anything. Amazing!!!😂 This video helped me alot. Gonna use my dad's AUTEL, and I have his FLUKE 73 Multi-Meter for tomorrow's diagnostics. Wish me luck. 🤞🏼🫡🤙🏽
I noticed an AMP clamp from your earlier videos. Use that tool as the first look on the negative side. With vehicle stable and draw not dropping, use the voltmeter and test each fuse. A mV voltage drop across one or more fuses is likely the circuit that is the actual draw. If found, attach a fused bridge across the removed fuse and place the AMP clamp across the bridge. Another option is the multimeter 10A scale in series with the removed fuse. There are many "fuse" charts available to help calculate the amperage draw via mV reading on the meter and scaled to the type of fuse being checked in a calculated amperage. Then shift the meter back to AMPS to monitor the test and find the offending circuit. Remember, current will find the easyest path to ground, two negative cables on the negative ground post is not a good test. One connection works but if there are two or more, a substitute is required for the perfect reading.
Good find! When I worked at Mercedes we saw this alot,door control modules would get corroded from water in the doors or rear antennae modules not installed correctly.
You Sir have got a subscriber here. 1st video I see from your channel. I like how u go over this issue and how methodical you are. Will definitely be looking forward to watching more of your videos! Thanks.
Kind of surprised you yanked on that aftermarket wiring mess tucked up above the roof lining,could have been attached to anything lol,heart was in my mouth. ;-)
Whenever you come across wires on that kind of chape or really rusted,get a ziploc bag fill using CLR dump the conectors in the bag and close wait a while while and clean it will clean conectors really good .Do not dispose of the Clr. Just fill the can again and reuse
Greetings from San Juan PR. Sir great video and xcelent way of diagnostic in this specific problem. Lots learn from you and great way of xplaning, I understood everything. Hope more technical videos come this way from you. thnx.
Good find and fix. Our rule for weird electrical issues back in 80s, pre scan tools, were simple. Visual inspection first, looking for what stereo installers f*cked up.
Solid find man . Good process aswell follow the data but imagine the rabbit hole if you didn't catch that data pid switch no doubt you could have still worked it out but oh man . Liking you vids aswell 2 thumbs up
This is prime example of why I retired from automotive work. My brain was fried from going from points to electronic ignition and then the fuel injection from carb etc etc
There's nothing to it, you pull off the intake cover and you go to work like any other vehicle. Modules canbus system, we have scan tools and break out boxes that communicate with the network.
@@404notfound..... I still play around with it I have a snap on $8000 scanner but I need a scope and break out box but doing it as a hobby gets expensive
I would think that with the key off there would be no power supplied to the modules. I have considered the fact that possibly the key fob is detected in the vehicle possibly awakening the modules but how they they being powered up?
@@autodiagyt So there is power at the connector and the network activity wakes them up powering them up with current moving back to ground? Did not know that.
Did you ever check to see what the current draw was when the vehicle was fully asleep? I have a 2020 Denali XL that has a dead battery every once in a while due to an intermittent current drain, but the current draw has never been anywhere near 5A any time that I have checked.
@@autodiagyt Do GMC dealerships have this type of equipment and expertise? They were never able to diagnose or replicate the issue, they had it hooked up to equipment overnight, etc.
Would adding some dielectric grease to that bad electrical connection after cleaning it been a good idea? Or would you not recommend doing that? I took my same year suburban threw a car wash the other day and now every night my battery drains and it won’t start in the morning. I’m wondering if it might be the same problem as this, what are your thoughts on what it could be? The car wash is the fully automated kind that uses pressure washer to spray the car and it also has a underbody pressure washer. I’m thinking my battery drain has something to do with the car wash. Please help if you have any idea. It’s same vehicle as this one. Thank you
@@autodiagyt Thanks for the reply! I looked into my battery draining issue a little bit more today and I found that the front amber color parking lights stay on even when I turn my vehicle off. It’s only the front parking lights that stays on not the rear, and it stays on kind of dim not super bright like when you actually turn the parking light on. It’s a 2015 Chevrolet Suburban LTZ. I pulled out the parking light fuses and it didn’t turn the lights off. I also pulled out the parking lamp rely and it didn’t turn it off. I’m not sure what it could be. I have nothing aftermarket on it. The only thing I keep thinking it could be is that I usually take it to the automated car wash and the car wash has high pressure water and it is the kind of Carwash that also sprays the whole underbody of the vehicle when you drive into the Carwash, so maybe that could have damaged a electrical contact? I have the vehicle parked with the battery disconnected so it doesn’t drain my battery overnight. I did a parasitic draw test like you did with the multimeter and I got about 3.80 parasitic draw. Please if you can help give me some ideas to look at that will be great thank you
@@autodiagyt I found the problem! It was the rear passenger side taillight electric connection. Water was getting into it and making a short causing the front parking lights to stay on and drain the battery! Thanks for all your reply’s I appreciate it, I subscribed and liked video!
my 2019 Colorado zr2 has dead battery every morning same 5 amp draw. turns out the usb module it bad. hopefully this dont happen again why chevy is so unreliable /??????
Thanks. This is what I found through google... Mode $01 - Request Live Data Mode $02 - Request Freeze Frames Mode $03 - Request Stored Trouble Codes Mode $04 - Clear/Reset Stored Emissions Related Data Mode $05 - Request Oxygen Sensors Test Results Mode $06 - Request On-Board System Tests Results Mode $07 - Request Pending Trouble Codes Mode $08 - Request Control of On-Board Systems Mode $09 - Request Vehicle Information Mode $0A - Request Permanent Trouble Codes
I really like your style. You provide excellent explanations as to what you are doing. A few more details about what you had hooked up would have been nice, but overall, an excellent video. If you would post more content, I would gladly watch. Subscribed. Thanks.
@@autodiagyt I wrote my posts as I was watching the video. I saw the end where you did a much better job of troubleshooting than I would have. Congratulations. Coincidently a friend has been having trouble with a balky rear hatch after repairs due to a hailstorm. I'm wondering if something similar happened to it.
I myself don't need all the electronic gadgets. Just something to get make that point a to point b. I currently own a GM GMC Sierra as a matter of fact it's electronic nightmare. I will never buy a GM product again I waited 3 months for an ECM for the engine on my diesel.
LOL! ROTFL! My 1961 F-100 does not have all that useless shit. The 1967 M35a2 had even less electrical-ness Here let me laugh again at that ridiculous automobile.
