Nico Pelorson - Soudain Seul (8C+/9A) 2nd ascent - Full story 

Still waiting for you Emil, hopefully the next season? ;)

@@alcupone6462 Emil is unfortunately allergic to knee-bars; this boulder could be the antidote!

@@pinchomaniac2643 Emil and Thor team send, EZ.

Time to send Bro! Let the motivation take you to the top!!!!

Lol thanks for sharing your RU-vid expertise! There were a few puzzling moments for me even with subtitles, 4:16 and 12:00 for example

Sooo hungryy

Sooooooooooo hungry

Actually he tells his mom there is NO way that it could be a 9a

@@adesgreesdulou Yup! But that suggests his mom was saying it was 9A lol

Opinions vary

@@Snowbound2643 ye ofc, that’s why I said imo

@@TimondeNood I just dont like how grades are becoming softer

@@Snowbound2643 I think people are getting stronger more than grades are getting softer

@@joshbrown4662 why do you think that?

"I'm the master of my own world. I control my own knife." Seriously, everyone go watch Dave Graham climb The Island on Vimeo. Its amazing and makes you love Dave Graham

@@kevind.3389 I could have sworn Dave did the FA of the stand...

@@jlehm There's quite a story behind this one... If I remember correctly DG opened it in a different way by starting 1-2 moves in from the stand start by 'sitting' on the big stone underneath the boulder. This version is known as 'The Island'. Later, 'The Big Island' was opened by starting from the stand start position a bit lower.

@@jlehm He did. He did the FA of the Island. But The Big Island starts slightly different. He started with LH in compression and RH on the crimp rail. The Big Island starts matched on the crimp rail.

Good memory guys. Thanks for the info. I knew I wasn’t crazy, just couldn’t remember the specifics. 👍👍

Precise, indeed!

boulders don't close

It won’t sadly

Jimmy needed

you see it when he puts the kneepad on

I thought it was the first ascentionist Simon Lorenzi who used the book

@@VDB420 Both used a book under the kneepad as far as I’m aware.

@@Mike-oz4cv ah okay

haha surely not everybody... But I have to say I was expecting the downgrade. First of all 8A+ into 8C (some people think 8B+) doesn't really add up to 9A. Of course I don't have an opinion on the actual grades and I certainly will not climb these grades ever, but just saying

@@HatoriHanzo1 Yeah sure I also have no clue about these grades 😅 But fact is that some really strong guys tried it over some time and the (strong) first ascentionist suggests 9A. This paired with the guys attitude as mentioned in my post makes me wonder.🤔😉

@@winedineclimb I guess he is realistic... It's not about unlocking a new move, it's more about having the stamina to link the two part-- So with practice, if you can climb a 8c you're supposed to send it... A new grade implies new skills imo !

@@winedineclimb Other strong climbers have projected it, but not for long. Jimmy Webb and Jan Hojer projected it on trips to Fontainbleau, but they never seriously devoted weeks to it and were always in Font to climb other things. Jan Hojer actually got decently close to sending it in 2017, linking most of the moves. There is a lot of speculation that The Big Island is soft / even considered 8B+, so I think proposing hard 8C+ doesn't seem so far fetched.

@@jacobkaye6827 I think some people will be skeptical of the 8C+ grade seeing as how other 8C+ problems (ie sleepwalker and hypnotize minds) have been sent in far fewer sessions. Obviously this doesn't mean that much since we don't have the same climbers trying this problem but its enough to be slightly questionable of the grade. Doesn't really matter though since we'll see how other climbers perform on this problem in the future.

Up there in the pantheon of great topouts with Ethan Pringle on Jumpo Love.

mother earth:"bruhh wut did i do?"

It's his publicist, feeding him what to say. It's common for interviews like this, but usually the publicist is out of frame.

What book? And what are you saying, that it's a pity that people use kneepads? In that case many routes would be almost impossible to climb. Is that what you wish?

@@markusosanen4525 both ascensionists put a book under the kneepad to artificially extend the length of their leg, making the kneebars possible.

Clearly not, I sometimes use one myself. I'm curious about what's possible and what's not.

@@Ever3lackSky Oh, i missed that one, sorry!

Tape ;)

Deep Blue Sea Sivan Talmor;Yehezkel Raz Album Vol. 1 - Underwater Fantasies

@@DoomsSDay49 thank you!!

I'm not taking sides here, but wanna mention that there are kneepads of different thickness. Would you see the thicker kneepads as aid and only accept the thinner kneepads? What if he wouldn't have used an existing kneepad but had made one for himself of the thickness he feels most comfortable with?

yeah why didnt they mension it in the video. If they think its no problem, why not say anything about it.

Bullshit. If you want to scream aid, then you should ask him to remove the kneepad as a whole. The rubber on the pad helps a ton with friction (the climber mentions it). He could have had a slightly thicker kneepad made for him and no one would complain.

@@diereide3467 Jeez, they talk about him using a kneepad to get better friction otherwise he slips. They also film the guy putting the book under the knee pad at 6:12 ans the name of the problem is the name of the book they used. What more do you want

truee