The re-do installs are the best...I worked at a "free install" store back 30 years ago and power slam, hot glue no rules was the work they did..needless to say I didn't work there long. I rarely ever get into a car done by another shop that the install is even decent. Installers that have been in business for a decade and just have no clue of even the basics lol
Mixed wiring is El classico, i´ve seen mixed wiring/rca/channels on 4-channel amp where gain changes left tweeter/right bass. including reverse polarities.
The most fool-proof technique in checkin left-right and even polarity if you're at it, can easily be done using a small 1.5v battery. If you wanna do it right, also use a multimeter. Always test before putting everything back together. This car finally got into the right hands for it to receiver the proper treatment!
I learnt alot about the mid bass thank you forr your videoss mangg!! Im gunna have to try it out, i wish i knew of this when i had boughten my component speakers.
Great, I have just bought the same van and have had all these ideas of a ten inch sub in the kicks for the lower mid bass and then a 15 inch in the bulk head kind of like and ib using the cargo storage as the sub box so to speak. So by the sounds of it it ain’t going to get much bass! You’ll have to come with an idea when it comes to you Peter to kit out for me!
Theres nothing wrong with a kenwood headunit if it suits your needs/budget. Just like all other kit it's about making the best of what you have/can afford. Do you for go for a Sony rsx gs9 or shoehorn a full size Cyrus into a dash. Its a world of compromise as we all know. A kenwood headunit is far from the worst thing someone can use and a lot of the newest ones are 24bit dac and sound a lot better than the alpine or equivalent options. I've had nakamichi, alpine , kenwood, mcintosh and they all have their good and and bad points but in today's world, I'd be putting kenwood above alpine for a headunit as alpine certainly aren't proving the extra cost is justified anymore. Dsps have nullified their old advantages. I love my old nakamichi but lack of dab and double din and shit reliability,no usb,no Bluetooth etc etc etc just made it not worth the effort. As we say so many times, install and tuning make the difference
these days you should just put a dsp with direct bt streaming in the car and just leave the stock headunit. so many functions run through the stock headunit, you would have to sacrifice alot of functionality in newer cars when you change the headunit.
@@AlexWayne1 a great number of these stock head units are simply just Android auto releases with the manufacturer's custom interface. Underlying it is basically an Android head unit that has much more features that could simply be unlocked by the dealership or custom programmed as you see fit.
You should by a whole budget system from Halfords and fit it to a car and when it puts other cars to shame, people will understand the absolute power of a proper install.
I would like to formally congratulate all those car audio shops for giving Peter business so that I can watch his content! I should start writing thank you Letters. 24:51 I'm a little bit perplexed on why a company like Rockford Fosgate would offer components for car audio use made to be mounted in a door space where moisture is a concern , with Hardware rusting after just a short time within a door? I mean even stock speakers don't experience the amount of corrosion that some of these aftermarket speakers are vulnerable too. it just seems a little bit out of place for an $800 component system. I have $25 speakers I purchased almost 20 years ago and it took them a good 12 to 13 years before they showed signs of rust on the metal Grill. yet the spring terminals are still rust-free, and the rest of the enclosure was still nice and black years later after being mounted in the elements. if a $25 speaker can do this years ago why can't a $800 component set from an American company do this? 6:52 I HEARD A HORSE! now about the head unit I understand that it's $1,300 but if they don't even come with a feature set that is even remotely as good as a typical home theater in the box that you can get with speakers for less than $300 with a sub woofer and speakers , it really makes you question the value of some of these head units today. some of these units don't even have a physical CD player inside of them and so they're literally just a tablet with a few buttons added I don't see the value here especially as most of these units don't even have a digital output let alone a HDMI video input or output. yes they are wonderful to operate. but head units of the past had a DVD player , optical outs . and a plethora of audio options. and they didn't sell for nearly as much. they also included playback for formats such as DTS audio, high definition CD, DVD audio, super audio CD, etc etc. why bother installing the onboard amplifier when just about everybody else is going to be using a dedicated processor if they're at this $1,300 level in the first place? either I don't understand the market or everybody has given up since the integrated Android headunits in cars became the de-facto for vehicles manufacturers today. As strange as it is, it's now considered a bargain to get a unit that has a built-in DSP, that also serves as a digital transport mechanism for the audio from your phone. And many times it also integrates into your factory system as well without any adapters needed. in many ways it's a full Turn-Key active system in a box. then of course there's a conversation about all these high-end audio formats with Sony's LDAC being the only wireless Bluetooth bass system that even approaches a 16-bit audio format as far as resolution. regardless, the signal-to-noise ratio of many of these units barely surpass 95 dB S/N ratio. And that's while in a Lab. Real world noise when the car is operating is often significantly less in real world scenarios. as Peter said it's more about the placement of your drivers in a good install rather than purchasing expensive pieces of Kit just to chase an audio ghost you'll never meet. like I said it's a very interesting Marketplace
totally agree on the head unit subject, people buy them because of the name, they know them for many years when those were the only options. they might be good quality but definitely not up to today's standards and definitely not worth the price. and then we have the android units which are doing basically anything you'd possibly want, with amazing screens, digital output and full integration with the vehicle for a fraction of the cost...but those don't have a reputable sticker on them and they're made in china, just like the reputable ones.
@@eduard.c.ionescu I'm not sure you understand. China as a country is very much like any other country. They have factories that can build crappy products or excellent, reliable products. It just depends on how much money you want to spend. When a name brand company commissions a headunit from a Chinese factory they pay them to use the better components, to build to their specifications, to do a series of quality control checks, etc... So you actually do get a higher quality product. A good example are iPhone made in China. its a quality product for sure. Apple pays them to make it a quality product. I hope this makes sense.
I have a sibling to that Kenwood head unit and I hate how long it takes to boot up. I wish they would include "startup time" in the specifications for source units.
Peter my friend from the other side of the Ocean! How do those Rockford perform as strictly midbass? Rockford has Klippel data showing 7mm of xmax below 10% distortion. That’s very very impressive for a 6.5” - can you comment on that and then also comment on the steel ring on the steg, was that included with the Steg midrange or how did you acquire that steel ring? Thank you!
hey, i use those t3 components in my car personally, i severely deadened my door and even capped the openings then coated them with mat, long story short my doors are dead. those drivers have serious mid bass and if ran full range get pretty low, how ever i dont do that. i have mine crossed over around 75hz HP and they preform really well. i wish rockford would have done a 3 way version because there is still a gap in the upper midrange but it is really not that bad. tweeters are very powerful and can get bright. hope that helps
CL, we had no chance to try them as we found best to pack that set up as the tweeters and Xovers were “ruined” a bit and let the owner deal with it. Personally i’d take it back to the shop and get the money back on them including installation cost, then they can install them the same way for someone else they want to rip off.
nice fix on that job. i do have a question though? what is the orange stuff you used for the pillers? I know what you mean by "milk shake" but am curious the different materials used to make it. thanks for info and again sweet job!
@@pssound9749 Get on it, mate! :p Seriously, the pinpoint focus, separation, and air around instruments and in the room that the DIRAC corrections net you are REALLY nice.
@@bbfoto7248 i can do that my own way too, but i don’t doubt that Dirac could do a better job too. The reality is that taking a new brand on and dealing with possible warranty situations on a product from over the pond needs more careful decision to take it on for a business. We’ve been fine and safe using what we’ve been using, so customers get great service.
So they deaden the tweeter but not the door for the midbass 🤔 It's sad cos the owner can't even get top money for the rockford due to the poor installation, I hope they go back to the shop.
Good day Peter. I faced a similar problem with my VW T6 previous version (where factory 8" midbass and 4" free mids are possible to install nearby). I thought I made a mistake in choosing a 6.5" midbass with a low Qtc
Any size driver would have similar peak around 100Hz. It’s not the speaker, but the environment. Every cabin has acoustical characteristics and a driver swap is not gonna change that, but you can optimise it with tuning. Having larger driver (if possible) for midbass is not a bad thing for sure, more cone area, more efficiency, less stress on higher listening levels in general.
Hi Peter, you say you have to be realistic with how low a system can play in such a small cabin. I’m planning an install in my new caddy van. The Cab is isolated from the back and is quite a bit smaller than the cab in your video. With the caddy there is space behind the front seats below the floor where the foot well would be if it had rear seats. I was planning to install two 12” IB through the floor. After watching your video I’m wondering if it would be worth the effort or am I just going to be disappointed with the results.
Bowling? Did you know that the highest levels of fecal matter were found in the finger holes in bowling balls. lol What are your thoughts on using a Zapco AP400.2 for the home hifi? Ive been looking at the home amps in the 3k range and they all seem to made the same with much cheesier parts than car amps. Do the Zapcos provide a 3D holographic sound. with depth and highth to the sound stage?
By fully active you mean you are not using the crossovers with the speakers, rather you are wiring all the separate components straitgh to the dsp/amp combo, right?
@@pssound9749 but if i have the speakers wired “passive” with their own crossovers, can’t i still use the dsp to tune the system since i know the crossover frequencies and curves? That would free up channels on the built in amp so i could use 1 for front and rear…. Cheers and i appreciate you answering.
@@deeiks12 the trouble is that any passive crossover is just designed for a generic Xover point and the same speaker set will sound different in different cars, different locations and applications, so it’s never too ideal. It’s designed for easy solutions. Also, you can’t set the time alignment between the same side speakers. DSP can at least help with equalisation and time alignment between L & R sides, plus aligning the sub, so it’s better than not having it. Then you can always go fully active when you want to move forward.
@@pssound9749 but theoretically the dsp could to the time alignments based on the frequencies as well, not by just different outputs? Just wondering. Maybe it’s a business idea :).
Would you put a midrange into the upper door if you couldn't do a pillar build? I ask, 'cause after looking a lot of your videos i think i want to upgrade my front 2-way system in my 2016 to a 3-way. The EU spec Mustangs do have a 3-way up front from factory with lower door midbass, upper front door midrange and tweeters in the A-pillars. With the 2-way and the correct way to measure i have the dreaded hole around 500Hz as you always point out, therefor i thought about adding a midrange to the system. Problem is i only have a Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP with 4 channels, therefor, before i have the budget to change the amp i would have to go semi active, means both midbass on one of the channels each (channel 3+4 on left and right midbass) and midrange/tweeter with passive crossover on the remaining two channels. From a budget point of view, would it still make sense to go for a 3-way this way and change to fully active later, or wouldn't you do it this way at all?
I wouldn’t run midbass in mono on 1 ch, that would be just as bad as whatever acoustical issues you have with 2way. Upper door for mid is fine, way better than having no mid at all, indeed.
@@pssound9749 Nono... midbass would be stereo... 2 channels (channel 3 and 4 on the amp) for midbass and 2 channels for midrange/tweeter on passive crossovers... :) sorry, i think i didn't write that as clear as i could.
Sorry,but i do not like how amps are siting.there is lot of heat. Way better would it be on same location but mounted straight on walls of seat console with some cooler fans.
My Accord head beams are blinking along with the bass, and im getting alternator sound through my tweeters when the stereo is off (gets mute when I turn the stereo on). Any advice? Do I need an extra ground cable from the battery to chassis or would these problems be of other orgin? Its a fresh battery of larger than oem capacity.
Usually grounding issue, which can be many things. Contact is not decent at amps to chassis, HU needs same grounding point with amps, RCAs have issues…difficult to tell without testing and filtering down 1 by 1.
It is still an issue because they are still driven on roads. Who cares how often. It would only be acceptable if it is not street legal and always trailered to shows. People seem to lack common sense with these things. If it results in deaths, the US will pass laws like in the UK.
My worst experience was a local shop not too far away, when i sold the car and removed the stereo, i was so annoyed at what was done, i swore i would never go back, looks like the same shop got hold of this van, incidentally, that same shop is still making shit jobs and videos too, right here on youtube !
so the guy who build a system get destoyed because he used hot glue but i wonder what the owner payed the man for doing it because now he get a 3 way system and a custom pillar build imho you can't compare apple's and oranges builds
the shop hasn't got destroyed, Peter just shows what you get for your money, no names were mentioned. regarding what the customer paid, I'm sure he paid what the shop sold him, don't think the customer said "please hot glue my tweeters so the job is cheaper" than come to us to pay another bill and get it fixed.
Yes, he went to one of the biggest shop, which probably charges way more daily rates than us. It shouldn’t matter though how much he paid, that speaker set is now massed up and he can’t even sell it on the second hand market.
so a mid under the dash, under a seat or floor ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ulpDvrVz9ac.html is oke but in a mid in a door is not ?? sounds to me like you just talk some bullshit ! explain
you're probably a bit confused and before throwing accusations and bad words you should probably explain what exactly you're talking about. where have you seen on this channel mids installed under the seats, floor? you've seen mid-bass installed there in 3way systems or 2 way with a wideband up high, but that driver doesn't play above 200hz. but that has been explained in numerous videos, even in this one when the rta measurement was shown.
you have no clue on what peter is talking in his videos, explained to you in my previous reply, that's a mid-bass that plays under 200hz in a 3way system, the van had 2 way system with a tweeter which means the mid-bass has to play midrange as well.