Most of my photography is outdoors at night using flash and I use one of my settings banks (D750-U1) set up specifically for this, which makes it easy compared to fiddling in the dark.
Watched your view at ODP on Wildlife setting for the D850, and it was excellent. In this video, tip #4 is brilliant! Sjoe, it's going to save me loads of time. Thank you very much 👏👏👏!
These are fabulous tips. I often find I adjust my camera for a particular scenario and something different comes along and I miss the moment because of the wrong settings.
I am turning in to a big fan of your tutorials. Always very useful tips and I am changing my camera settings after your recommendations and it is making a big difference. Thanks so much!
And my personal contribution: I use to have one of the front "fn" buttons assigned to "spot focus". This way, if some action in high-contrast lighting would develop, i can switch immediately to a "sharper" metering by simply pressing/holding the button, without leaving the visor.
@@danielle-pangolinphotohost1005 Of course you understood it is not "spot focus", but "spot light metering" :-) This happens when you don't ... "focus" enough when typing ! :-)
Hi Danielle, Love your You Tube Channel. You are always very clear in giving your tips and they don’t drag on like some. This means l don’t loose interest. Keep it going
When I think of custom shooting menu banks , I think Landscape , Wildlife, Long Exposure. Never thought to use it to change extreme shutter speed differences. A great tip. Another great vid. Thanks.
Excellent! Excellent! Excellent! I wasted hours of time back when I first got my D500 trying to figure out how to set up Custom Control setting. I watched half a dozen videos, read and reread the expensive D500 aftermarket manual I bought and wasted hours on user forums. Time after time just as they got to the critical point the authors would jump to another aspect of the process. Stubborn by nature I finally figured out how to do it, but if I had known about and watched this video I would have mastered the process in 5 minutes! One video I watched said the Custom Setup Banks were worthless so I never explored them…now I am going to check out this woman's video on that subject as well. Thanks!
Daniella, just fantastic tips... especially the TIP no. 3 where the focus mode it erroneously changed from AF-C to AF-S.. i had missed no. of shots due to this mistake. Now I am sure that i wont miss it again. Thanks a ton.....
one other great tip, for Nikon, but cannon may have this as well, called save /load user settings, same as U1/2/3 or Banks ABCD, But this saves EVERYTHING on the camera, custom controls, the whole lot!!- just in case your camera dies *(NOT battery flat)* I mean have to go to repair shop "die" ; and allows you to rent or buy another similar model, and transfer the settings ( also fantastic for rental houses, to reset afterwards), so your "shooting personality" or the cameras 'soul' is transfered to the new body, no need to go back to square one!!!! ( or see a priest at the camera maker, to "resurect" or vanqish any deamons inside your beloved camera :-)) )
Hello Danielle! Happy to see you again In a video. Like every time, your explanations are given with a lot of clarity, and charm. And this time I am so happy that you continue to give some advices for the Dslrs. A lot of people have switched to the mirrorless, and with nikon, even with the z62, the AF tracking system is not on the same level as it is with the D850. So thanks again.
Hello Francois, thanks for the continued support. I am still a supporter of DSLRs. I've made some videos about the Z6 and it has some great advantages but I'd have to save some more before I can buy the best of the best mirrorless. For now I feel I can afford the best of the best DSLR :-)
@@danielle-pangolinphotohost1005 Thanks Danielle for your kind answer. People who make the fotosafari with you, have a lot of chance to have a patient (and charming) teacher like you.😊 I think,you are right, the d850 is perhaps the best Dslr,or one of the best, which has ever existed.i have a d5 which is also very good, (not as good as the d850)and i will, like you, wait, that Nikon puts out a professional mirorless, and it will be time to switch.😉.thanks again,
Rating pictures in camera, using crop mode on full-frame body's if you know you will be cropping anyway not only the DX but the 1.2× can also be very usefull and leaves a bit more room for creative cropping in post, it will save you a lot of time and storage later in post
Thanks Danielle, another very helpful video particularly the step by step guide to making or changing settings. Have come in very useful, especially using the joystick to move the focus point around instead of the multi-selector.
When doing long exposures I usually clean and ready my filterholder with the proper adapters (on both holder and lenses) cpl and graduated if needed before I even go out. Saves quite a lot of time and minimize the risk of getting dust, waterdrops and what not on the filters compared to doing it on site.
Catching up Daniel thank you I found this really interesting and helpful , I have subscribed + set the notifications , I have lots to catch up on as I'm new to photography I live in Scotland so have plenty to photograph for practice , but not the wildlife you have must be amazing . Thank you 👍
@@PangolinWildlife yes we do however unable to travel at the moment I've managed to get a heron catching it's lunch , and a playful seal , a squirell and the odd bird , great for practice . Thank you look forward to your next tutoriol 👍
This was one of the most useful tips ever. Thanks Danielle. However, I could NOT find the link for Tip #5 for banks of settings. Maybe I am missing something?
Excellent video ! Used several tricks already, but not sure I fully understand the portrait/landscape thing. Looks hugely interesting and defo something to implement, so would love it if you could elaborate a bit on how to set it up ?
Hi again Claude. So if you set "store points by orientation" to "on" (in your menu under Custom settings and autofocus), then the camera will remember the focus point you chose last when you were in portrait. If you then go from holding the camera landscape and turn into upright/portrait, the camera will automatically move the focus point to the one you were on in portrait orientation.
@@danielle-pangolinphotohost1005 Thanks a lot Danielle - that truly sounds like magic ! I have to try it ! If I understand you well, the "starting orientation focus point" is not fixed. It's just whichever orientation/focus point you were in before rotating the camera, and it will return to that one after going "landscape" again ? The memory is just about the "portrait" orientation, or did I miss something ?
Exactly. So it actually remembers landscape and portrait orientations both. And for portrait, it remembers both ways (clockwise turn or anticlockwise turn). -Danielle
Hi there - assign your AF area mode together with your orientation. Some cameras can do the AF mode, others only remember the focus point. Which camera do you have? -Danielle
I thought this was an excellent video. Well done. I was already doing 3 out of 5 but immediately changed my settings so I can use the dial to scroll photos. Not sure why I wasn't doing that before. I also have my Sub-Selector set to Group Area Mode but I always have problems using it. Either I'm trying to move the focus point and instead I start the Group Area Mode or the other way around. Do you have any tips on how to solve this or is it just "Practice, Practice and More Practice".
Hi there. I know what you mean - the subselector can take a while to get used to. I find it "toggles" from side to side when I try to push it in sometimes when I'm in a rush. The other option is to set either your Pv or your Fn1 button to AF area + AF ON and make that one your group area AF? Just a bit of a different move with your fingers. If Nikon can improve the ergonomics of it, that'll be great!
Yep the sub selector drives me to distraction and up the wall. I have tried and tried to use this button but it is either just too sensitive or I am just too uncoordinated to use it with success. I have missed many shots fighting with it so have given up on trying to master it. Hopefully Nikon can redesign it so it isn’t as sensitive.
@@danielle-pangolinphotohost1005 Thanks for the response. I did program the PV button and I think it's going to work really well. Just need some practice.
Hello, great stuff. I was shooting recently and realised what I have started doing with the sub-selector - I press it down using my thumb's joint line/the first crease. Seems as though it then presses down harder and stops those damn focus points from running around. -Danielle
one problem many do face..... we have group focus assigned to back button focus and single point assigned to sub selector. when we press the sub selector for single pt focus, the focus points moves over the screen and it takes time to get it back to center and press the shutter. Any settings where we can fix the focus point in sub selector so it dont move from its original positon. Thanks again for all your and colleagues information videos. They are absolutely fantastic.
I thought I was the only one struggling with this...seems everyone does. Nikon should fix that. What I learnt to do to prevent it, is to press down using the "knuckle" part of my thumb (on the joint line) so that I have a greater surface area pressing down on the button. This seems to help a lot :-) Thank you! -Danielle
Another useful tips vedio. I am beginner and just bought nikonD5600 , if you can suggest some links from you old vedio for that, although I am following n trying suggestions you are giving.
What I find most interesting about cameras is focus points and exposure are not tied together. It makes no since to me it was a hard fact I did not realize for fifteen years using DSLR cameras and not explained to me properly until this year. It does have a effect on my photos more so tha I ever realized
Hi there. I use mostly matrix metering so exposure is taken from the whole scene, but I know in some Canon models, if you're shooting using spot metering, you can set your focus point to be separate. Speaking under correction. -Danielle
Any tips to prevent accidently moving focus point with subselector when pressing to engage focus. I so often do this and it's terribly annoying. I use my Af-on as af-s single point and my subselector as af-c 9 point. Is it just a case of practise makes perfect??
Hello, I know right? Same here, happens to me often. I definitely suggest that Nikon improves that button. I just make sure that I press as perpendicular to the camera as possible, and also a bit harder than when I am toggling my focus point around. It happens less since I've been doing that :-)
@@danielle-pangolinphotohost1005 Haha, glad to hear I'm not the only one. I guess it's just going to be practise and more practise. I try to be careful about going perpendicular but I still mess it up often.
Hey Natalie - I was shooting recently and thought of your comment (you're definitely not the only one - have had quite a few people asking). So I realised what I've been doing to solve the running focus point without actually noticing...I press down using the joint line of my thumb - the hard part on the inside crease - so I don't use the tip of my thumb. Seems if you use a greater surface area then your force is more and it presses down more than toggling. Seems to work for me! -Danielle
Hi Danielle, great video and tips. However, my newly acquired (used) D850 has entirely different choices in the sub-selector menu. It does not give me an option to program the sub-selector button to AF area mode but only to use as another AF On button. Any idea why?
Hello Robert. Just a bit of troubleshooting - have you scrolled through the whole menu (I have made this mistake plenty times, hence the question). Also, have you updated your firmware to the latest version? downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/384.html If these don't solve it - send me a mail danielle@pangolinphoto.com and then we can have a look at it :-) -Danielle
Hi Danielle, great video and thank you. You mention that you have made an extensive video on how do create settings for various photos but I am not able to find it. Can you please show me where the link is. Thanks.
Yes, I also couldn't see / find any link. I'm really interested in saving settings for different scenarios. Could you please add the link, @Danielle - Pangolin Photo Host
Hi Jacqueline. Apologies! They put the Canon link in the video. Here is the Nikon one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x33Zc8sfUWw.html -Danielle
Your videos are great. I have two sets of shooting banks on Nikon D810. One under "Shooting Menu" and another under "Custom Setting Menu" if I set the name on one it does not rename the other. Are they linked or do I have to set them both?
Hey Shaun, thanks. NOW things get tricky ;-) So those are two different types of banks that aren't related, as far as I have been able to figure out. You may name them the same but they don't "link" by default. So for your custom settings, you can name your first bank "wildlife" and then for your photo shooting also name your first bank "wildlife". That's probably the easiest I reckon... -Danielle
@@PangolinWildlife Hello Danielle. Thanks for your great videos, especially on D850 (I just bought one recently, fabulous camera!). It would be great to see you go through the Custom Setting Menu banks like you did for the Shooting Menu ones at some point. I am sure your insight woould be very useful to a lot of people.
Great such an interesting and clever video on Nikon DSLR tips and tricks to save time. Don’t hesitate to check my videos about the Nikon D3S... the only Nikon I kept when switching to the L Mount.
Hello Danelle I use back focusing with my D500 when back button pressed in I think focus is continuous and when released it stays on that focus point, am I correct? Lawrence UK
Hello Lawrence. Correct, it will lock focus where you last left it/where you released the back button. However, very important is that, once released, neither you nor your subject should move - as this changes the distance between your sensor and the subject and focus will then be lost. If there is a change in distance, you will have to refocus. That's why I keep by back button pressed while shooting - it then ensures constant focussing :-) -Danielle