Having been a technician for 44 years, I have to say to you thank you for the whole video! Very nicely done! It's refreshing to see someone that knows what they are doing and can be able to explain it to the lay person in a way that is easy to understand.
Great diagnostics, Eric! I'm an electronic engineer for almost 30 years - your approach is very systematic, logical and scientific. You have a great understanding of the mechanical, electrical and software operation of cars and go right to the most time saving diagnostic method. If you ever get tired of wrenching, you would be a great teacher at a tech college. Any college should be happy to have you teaching the art of auto diag and repair. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world!
I've said it before. This is my favorite repair channel, why? Eric's a down to earth dude, quick and to the point videos, I don't have to watch at 1.5x speed like some others just to get to the point and I still usually learn a thing or two.
I honestly love how you make reading tech drawings from timing to wiring simple. Much appreciated and I am learning lots. Defo going to keep watching. Best teacher so far found. Awsome mechanic thank you
Exactly what typical old shops don’t understand, gotta KEEP UP WITH THE TIMES. Cars as old as the 2000s have hundreds of modules that control them, you need to have the equipment to work on them amd understand how to use that equipment. Great Diagnostic!
Speaking of timing. ..On many channels I end-up increasing the playback speed, as I often feel they are wasting time. Your approach is better, BANG, here it is, so I don't need to do that. Thanks for the quality, super-concentrated and highly focused content.
Definitely better to replace engine. Great diagnose process. I had assumed first with most nissans. Bad crank or cam sensors. I know it's a pain to do timing replacement on these. Very involved.
Very educational and entertaining content. I'm glad I live in an era where knowledge and experience is easily transferable through youtube videos like this. Keep it up!
Completly professional wow. Great work and terrific explanation and i as a mechanic and constantly learning trying to be a technician appreciate your channels advice😎😎😎
Low oil level causes low oil pressure which causes the chain tensioner to fail and therefore causes the chain to skip teeth. the VQ35 and 37 are notorious for this issue. Well done with your diagnostics.
Please give a follow up on this car. Those engines are pretty tough. I would think a chain tensioner failed thus the chain skipped a couple of teeth. Oil level and condition of oil is critical on variable valve engines.
I believe the shop is just going to recommend replacing the engine with a low mileage used one. It’s less labor and less liability for the shop. If they have any trouble with the engine, the salvage yard will exchange it for them.
Impressed with your attention to detail and explaining of where to put the leads and how. I would've loved to find this channel sooner! you'll be seeing some more interaction from me for sure!
Man Eric I really appreciate the videos! Thanks for being so detailed about the hookups on the car Eric! Because what is common sense to you is not to the newbies in the field. You make AWESOME VIDEOS!!
I had this once with a customers 350z. The second I cranked it and it backfired through the intake I new someone's gonna need a new engine . Checking the codes n compression confirmed it for me. 3 dead cylinders n crank/cam codes. Great content bro #mechlife
I started watching your channel with the purple Viper fix. Here I think I’m pretty good at fixing cars but you’re next level lol. If you’re ever in Dallas and want to check out a proper early model Viper lmk 👍
I had the same issue with my 2013 Infiniti g37x.i didn’t have to switch the whole engine.they was getting bad readings from the ignition coils.should’ve did a check list and swapped each part that gave them a issue.from experience I did what the lady probably did and that’s not keeping up with my maintenance.if any one has any questions I will be glad to answer how I avoided a engine swap.
So the ignition coils were the problem? I have an Infiniti I'm trying to diagnose for my friend. 2010 g37. It has p0340 code. I changed the spark plugs and it's still missing on 2 3 and 4 cylinders. Vacuum lines are good. I used the torque app to see what the cams were doing and bank 2 is stuck at -128 degrees. I switched the two on the top front around but it still has -128 degrees on bank 2 cam.
If you have maintenance done on time for 2013-and-up VHRs, you're never looking at a swap. 200K miles easy peazy. New spark plugs at 85K, replaced passenger bank valve cover & gasket at 90K, new rad & main hose at 105K. A whole bunch of rotors & pads, oil changes at 4-6K intervals, never to break down and leave me stranded over 6.5 years now. This 2013 G37xS sedan has 116K on the clock, pulls like it's still 2016 and so... it's in for the long haul, as it should. 🍻
Had/have a similar issue w/ my 09 coupe…eventually lost compression and was Suggested that I replaced engine. Ended up doing so and the same Thing happened with the replacement..need to figure out what’s causing the issue upstream
Beast! I would love to have this knowledge. I wouldn't even know where to start. Maybe one day. For now I'm just a backyard mechanic. Keep up the excellent work!
@@Dougdea your cam phasers have moved and you should replace them to adjust the timing back to specs, timing cover must be removed to do this. google it.
before getting to the end my guess was a relay or timing, people never overlook timing so often its not even funny. im a newbie still learning and compression and timing is one of the things i check often
I remember reading somewhere that the 3.5L V6 had timing chain issues but I thought that problem was fixed on the 3.7L My wife's 2013 EX37 bought new only has 39k miles on it and I change the oil twice a year which means every 2 to 3K miles so hopefully it will be a long time before her car has the problem.
It's unfortunate the owner didn't know about you in the beginning. Timing chains are supposed to be much more reliable compared to a belt, plus it's sad that just happens to be an interference engine. Great diagnosis btw!
Look my guy, highly doubt it’s timing, the 3.7 has almost no issues with timing unless the customer just never changes their oil. With infinitis it’s more then like an electric issue with the fuse block (ipdm) or possibly the NATS (security system). All you need to do is pull the cam covers off and the bank 1 valve cover, to physically check the timing. (Refer to FSM Em engine mechanical). Id love to see you pull the timing cover off and look at the chain.
My rule of thumb is, avoid all European cars. Jaguar, Land Rover (I believe both are owned by Tata now), VW, Audi, BMW, etc., especially all the newer, plastic-built crap.
This is the reason whenever I hear someone say, “My mechanic said…”. I’m not a professional mechanic (work in a completely unrelated field) but as soon as I heard you push the start button I knew it was a timing issue. I’m guessing anyone with a $30 code reader would have gotten a cam/crank correlation code. Why “mechanics” would try batteries, or fuel pumps to fix it amazes me.
Great video as always Eric, your vids are better than a great mystery novel for my analytical brain. I haven't been watching YT much lately, I remember you closed up your shop a while back, are you purely mobile diagnostics now?
Pointing out that the camshaft to camshaft correlation might be off because of the VVT system is something not many people would think of. Great video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe so this channel can get bigger!
Sir, you are the only one I know who can help me out with this car problem. The car is a range rover 1998 p38 4.6HSE and v8. Many people were invited to start the car even from a far State but the couldn't. The challenge is a crank no start, no spark,no injector pulse but good communication with a scan tool. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well. Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off. All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. Also a particular relay circuit for example RL-2 one of the pin of the connector when my test light was on battery ground and relay removed, the pump buzzed and testlight dim but when I tried that same location with test light and same pin the test light was dim and ABS relay was actuated no buzz from pump. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit. Please what's the cause of the problem and what do I need to do to fix the problem?
bro i had a similar problem with my infinty m35x. except no power for my scenario, long story short it was some sort of fuse i don't remember with one thou. keep it coming brother i love this videos
Great information, even for a DIY guy like me without all the expensive equipment. Thanks so much for doing this one! Also, what’s that classic ride in the next bay?!!
Another superb diag, Eric! It's pretty pathetic that the "mobile mechanic" (ugh) wasted the customer's money by throwing most likely unnecessary parts at a problem that accomplished nothing for the customer except decrease her bank balance. There's NOBODY better in Texas than you!
Can anyone help me with my g37 lol . I have a 2010 g37 sedan and it doesn’t start when the engine is warmed up but it starts perfectly when it’s like first time starting it in the day and drives fine only thing is if I start it and drive it and then try to start it again , it won’t start . It’ll do like 2 cranks and then nothing . This only happens when car is warmed up , when it’s cool down it starts with no problem.
The battery was replaced due to a crank no start condition? I really hope that was done by the owner not the mobile mechanic. Edit: I didn't mean to speak badly of either the owner or mechanic, but if the mechanic replaced the battery, he/she should have known better.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO I understand. If you want, can you make a video explaining how a bad alternator can give all sorts of codes, ie. Lost communication with x module. I had car where the alternator did not provide power causing the battery to discharge. I am not a mechanic but do the basic work such as tire rotation, oil change, alternator, battery, stater and brake pads replacement.
Crank immediately sounds like low or no compression. I’m 2:08 into the video….. Looks like timing issue and possibly isolated to one bank (5:40 into video)….….BOOOM! I was correct I believe. Had to do a cam crank correlation on a Range Rover I owned with similar symptoms. Awesome Eric!
exactly when you start the engine i knew it was something off with the compression or timing but at the end you said,, owner will change the engine cause is cheaper,,, that tells me that in the future diagnosis will be undervalued cause diagnogsin an engine is more tricky to diagnose brake,fuel,tranny,etc systems,,, damn
I have a 2014 Altima with a 2.5 it has a really really frustrating issue. When the engine is cold the car starts and runs just fine. If you let it idle for a long time or if you go on a long drive and then turn the car off, it will not start, I get crank but won't fire. Starting fluid will get it running and it will run just fine after it starts. I have replaced both Cam sensors and the Crank Shaft Position Sensor. All 4 ignition coils, new plugs, pulled and tested all 4 injectors, all tested good. After doing all this work, the car is now giving me a code. P0171 Fuel trim - Bank 1 - mixture too lean This is contradictory to the spark plugs telling me it's way to rich by the amount of black carbon on them. The last thing I can think that might be the issue is the fuel pump but this does not make sense to me because it only happens when the car gets hot and the fuel pump is quite away from the engine. Also, if you let the car cool down and drive it a bit the p0171 code removes it self. Any ideas???
The pattern of the compression test gave it away as a bank being out of time. Scanner danner had a case where there was no compression at all on one bank and the engine sounded fine because it would do just like this engine, fire evenly from bank to bank. He figured that the compression test only had 3 humps from each fire event lol, though he had missed that and didn't realize it was a mechanical but great case study nonetheless because other tests were conducted.
I feel sorry for the lady. As Eric O says - that mobile mechanic used the part cannon. I am glad you found the real problem but sadly in these times people have almost exhausted their savings.
The chain is a huge pain and is always being talked about. If someone is doing theirs and you are in a group with them ask if you can do both of yalls at the same time. It will save you from this.
Eric excellent video and troubleshooting. Have heard back from the shop or did the replace the engine? Eric thanks for sharing and stay safe and well Artie 😊
I like the waveform scanner, I could use it on my 07 VQ35HR to see why the hell it takes 3-4 seconds to start every time, hot or cold. But, in this video, as soon as you pressed the Start button, i knew the timing chain skipped at least one tooth because of the 'sound' of the engine. Just listen how it sounds and it's 100% mechanical. These engines need proper maintenance to run till the wheels fall off, but if the maintenance is p00r, then the engine can't run. If you eat p00r food, you will feel like shit and get sick..
Hard to say, since I wasn't there, but it sounds like they just fired the parts cannon at it. Since nothing fixed it, they just threw their hands up, and moved on to the next guessing game.
@@coache1nine hook up the scanner to check any code appear. At least give you the direction to go. That every mechanic should do. Every time I see Eric check the trouble code first but this time he didn’t do it
@@tillaryauto, for some techs, yes, that's the way to go. But as he explained, because of the engine cadence, he knew it was mechanical, not a sensor. He bypassed scanning for codes and did the relative compression test. It showed him exactly what he needed to see, something the scanner would not have. He just ommitted the scanner step. Not right or wrong, just a different approach.
@@coache1nine he Amp clamp the battery cable and find out engine has low compression cylinders but it doesn’t mean the valve timing is off ，it could be burnt valve，piston etc.I still don’t understand why skip to check any trouble code first
Very nice and well done man, thank you for sharing you knowledge wirh everyone else. That is how we are suppose to learn, by doing and grrr getting dirty. And people should appreciate what a good mechanic has to go through to earn a buck, not every diagnostic is simple and easy, some do kick your butt!
This was an excellent video, and your imitation of the engine was perfect. It’s disheartening the lady spent so much money on unnecessary parts and labor due to inept diagnostics.
