You are one of the best I have seen. The outdoor channel should give you a job. You are much better than the guys I have seen trapping on TV. For being a one man operation, your videos are top notch. Keep up the good work.
@@stevenrussell8410 night latching the trap is making it a hair trigger, if the trap isn’t night latched, the pan will set higher, and have to go down further before they set off
@@logangower8615 thanks for your wisdom, I got 2 bridgers and 2 dukes. the bridgers have hair trigger outta the box. when I try to lower the pan, they go off. Cant get em level. The duke pans can be lowered to level. I'm scared to file anything off. 1st night I set them, the bridger (#3) fired and coyote( I think) got off. Any thoughts?
@@stevenrussell8410 Nope, the Bridget #3 are usually pretty good traps. However, the pans don’t have to be perfectly level, in fact, some people like their pans pointing just a hair off. But if the pan is super uneven, that’s a problem.
glad you liked it. To each his own on trap size, but I have taken dozens of beaver in number 3's. and a good part of those were back foot catches. trap placement and quick drowning is the key.
Love this channel! I’ve learned a ton from you and all the videos you’ve made. Thanks for everything you do. It’s nice being able to take the teacher to the woods or the fur shed when a refresher coarse or new lessons are needed. Once again Thank you👍👍
Thanks for this video. It was the only one with great video and explicit instructions. Taking the pan off was key for me, I could see what was happening as I filed. First-time trapper. First dozen traps. Duke # 4s. Nearly destroyed First trap I tried alone. Studied your video and went to it. 10 minutes per trap they all night latch perfect!! Appreciate you
Excellent video! Thank you for posting yet another top notch informative video. As a new trapper, I very much appreciate all the work you do in getting these videos up and running.
I nite latch for two reasons. One is to hear the click when the pan is level, great for low or no light conditions. Two, is to have the trap fire with no perceptible movement. To do that, make the notch just deep enough to catch the dog but be right on the edge. Thanks for all your videos, I have learned something from each and every one.
I'm new to trapping and I've been watching your videos for about 18 months now and I thought I had seen all of them. I caught this one because it popped up after a more recent one. And for a beginner this is the exact info I need. Glad it popped into the frame. Hope to see more.
ANd these are Dukes. The Bridger traps seem to have a pseudo nite latch from the factory where the pan is high and you then adjust it down until a click is heard.
Very good instruction. I would like to suggest that following the file work, everything will work much more smoothly if you dress the file cuts lightly with a fine ceramic trigger stone. Files inherently leave a very rough surface. The stone won't change the geometry, but will remove any small burrs and smooth the mating surfaces on both the dog and the pan.
I've been researching trapping and I have some traps ordered but didn't see anything about the pan adjustment on any other videos. Thanks alot for uploading this.
Excellent video. I am just beginning in coyote trapping and acquired my first half dozen traps and the night latch seemed non existent. Now they all are in tune! Thanks!
Fairly new to trapping,and I’m just now finding this thanks for this information. Looks like I’m going to be tearing 3dz traps apart. Take care and god bless
Flat files are measured by length and not thickness. An 8 inch will be the closest to 5/32. A 10 inch is close to 3/16. I used an 8 inch on my #2 and #3 Dukes. The only difference it made was the "click" on the #3 traps was not as loud. We're working on traps not jet engines so the tolerances are slightly more flexible.
@@53kills file length has zero to do with the thickness of file - each manufacturer/file can be different as far as depth of file. In the video he is talking 1/32 of an inch - that's a pretty tight tolerance and the idea I believe he was stressing was to lay the file flat on the stock and the file difference would make up the gap difference between the different sized traps.
Like the guy in the video said it's not rocket science. You are correct. The length of a flat file is irrelevant to the thickness. That's because thickness is irrelevant to a flat file's intended use. You're not going to Lowe's, Tractor Supply.etc, and find a 5/32 or a 3/16 inch flat file. However you will find an 8 inch or 10 inch file. A 8 inch file will work fine for a #2 trap. An 10 inch will work for #3. The guy is working on traps, not a complex device requiring precision tolerances. Just file a notch in the pan. As he said, it's quite simple.
Very inspiring I've been having problems with lieing my pan and firing the trap but thanks to u man I'm gonna have an easy process with the pan thanks somuch great video
You know, I have a couple of old traps (I'don't trap I just thought they were neat, but I'm looking into getting into trapping) and I noticed the pans are, what seems to me, quite high and I wondered how they would work very well like that. I'll probly try this on at least one of them. Thanks for posting this vid.
Dumb question if I may? Where do you put your "ID Tags?" I am very new to trapping and on Game Land you must have an ID tag on all your traps. On cages, it is no problem but on the foot holds, Body Grips, and DP's what is the best location, & what do you use to attach your ID tags? Your videos on trapping are some of the best on RU-vid. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Peace PS: I used pop rivets for the cages
So the point of night latching....Just set it quick and be done? I have been trapping for years and when I wax the traps that I bought that came latched are hard to set compared to the others. Way to touchy...What am I doing wrong?
Silly question perhaps but could you still accomplish the night latch just by adjusting the dog distance from the pan notch w/o needing to file the notch? In theory would it not still level the pan including a hair trigger?? Otherwise great video and good explanation. I use strictly #3 Bridger offset for coyotes.
Hey great video. Do you change out your brass screws and drill it out with a #14 bit. I've seen trapping supply catalogs sell replacement screws and the drill bit. What is the reasoning behind that? Is it worth doing? Thanks
do you do anything to make that trap trip with basically.no pan creep? or was that trap done once you turned off the camera? I ask because the key when bedding a trap is to make sure it is solid and does not move when he animals steps. now when it steps on the pan and it creeps slightly and doesn't go off wouldn't that be the same as a wobbly trap? I like everyone try to make a set that when they animal steps on that pan it is committed but just something I've been pondering while tuning my traps this weekend.
Great video Stu. Question though, bending the dog support forward with pliers, would that not level off the pan w/o having to night latch? Exactly what is the purpose of the night latch?
I guess its just a trapper thing. The purpose is the notch provides an audible click when pan is set just before the trap is ready to fire. The purpose of dyeing and waxing is corrosion control. . Spray painting.or dipping in a 50/50 mix of rustoleum paint and acetone works just as good and is much easier. Will need.to let.them air out for a few days for the paint scent to.dissipate.
Could you remake this video with your new camera equipment my eyes ain't what they used to be and does this need to be done to them all DUKE Bridger and so forth ?
+Casey Gibson the point of nite latching is to remove pan travel. if done correctly there will be very little pan travel and the trap can be set consistently with a level pan
Only used # 1's & 1 1/2's as legal here. Never had a good brand trap that needed modification to set them fine, or heavy and level plate. This might help if setting in the dark. Otherwise it seems technique should do the job if the larger sizes are simply scaled up. With the sizes used here plenty of "experts" seem to wish to demonstrate their knowledge by modifying traps, bending them out of shape un-necessarily. If a large animal etc does bend & distort them then a bit of first aid panel beating is justified.
