Excellent job bro! Really glad you decided to go with, and demonstrate the window switch method (along with the other parameters in place). I see so many guys that just install nitrous direct and just juice the motor with a switch...SMH. Another good variable to mention is the amount of HP you get from a certain pill at full, and then how much effective HP is made as the bottle progressively is used. A nano kit installed will maintain max HP shot to bottle being empty...
I love all the safety. this was a great explanation .. I knew nothing of the NOS system but now I would feel like I knew the direction to go with the design of the system...
love these video's explaining things about youre cars. Someone that really knows what he is doing won't be affraid to share is knowledge. But if a tuner dosn't want to tell what he is doing then he probably dosn't know what he is doing or he does only the easy things that everyone can do if they hear how to do it. But you share what you know so that others could maybe do the same.
@ziggassedup Well you are right about being cold however we usually have 20 to 30c on race days and in the car it gets fairly hot, have not used a heater on the bottle so far
Great video..I agree with all except the bottle pressure ... you need to run a pressure guage ... it can be full and and not be at 900 psi ... temperature is the key factor at that point.....
Seems nitrous has a fairly large pressure range in the bottle depending on outside temp and where its stored, I think its a plan to run a pressure gauge and heat the bottle as needed, what happens is when the bottle pressure goes up, more nitrous comes out when used even though its jetted, increasing nitrous jet size would be the same effect as a heated bottle but I should start using a pressure gauge to know where its at, I appreciate your input
That's pretty interesting man! I was always curious about no2 and all of it's workings. I knew it was more than solenoids, bottle and switch. Good to see it broken down like this. Great job, bud!
Oh....one question. Can you turn the bottle off and run without no2 and not harm anything? Or do you have to turn of some comp chip components as well? Meaning....once your set up for no2, do you have the choice to run with or without?
No problem I tune a bunch of cars and we found that heating them is the best way to get more out of the hit. I run two foggers and a plate so difernt pressure on each stages plus purging helps get fresh nitrous in the lines. I like to purge each system to the motor and watch the rpms making sure they rev the way i want them to. Nothing like 800 worth of nitrous on a 700 inch bbc that makes 1600 on motor. :)
@saleen737 The rule of thumb is multiply 1/8th mile time by 1.55 and its fairly close to 1/4 mile time, this car has gone 4:50s but with more engine and better southern tracks, right now this engine with a little spray has gone 5:18 1/8th
Good vid buddy...Seeing as you are in a cold place in the world,do you use a blanket for the bottle and do you have telemetry system.?...Oh,..as for the viewer who asked....I see a manifold explosion coming up soon...lol
Great vid, didnt know about the fuel pressure switch. The only thing I wouldnt agree on is going on how much nitrous you have in the tank, I've seen plenty of tanks have over half left but not have enough pressure (hence bottle warmers etc) I think its worth monitoring the bottle pressure. But hey everyones different :-)
Awesome vid!!!! You answered a lot of questions that baffle people about NOS. Have you had the car on the track??? If so what did it run and at what length??? 1/8 or 1/4 mile. Merrie-Merrie
Thanks, this engine makes about 850 without spray, if you want to get a nitrous kit for your built up V8, get one that goes at least till 250, you sure will notice when it comes on ha ha
@groutaone Actually with the bottle heater you can't maintain pressure either, it can get bottle pressure optimum before a pass, that is all. Using a product like the NANO Nitrous system will constantly maintain bottle pressure by replacing the used product with Nitrogen. The Nano system is thee only way to maintain a constant bottle pressure while product is being used.
I would love nitrous on my mud truck. Would it not be a good idea for safety to run a bell housing guard or a blanket if stepping up to nitrous.I know some of the boggs i have ran at make you have one or you do not get to run.
nice vid helped alot just wanted to know what is your line that comes to the front face (left) of your bigger regulator, and you have the line (right) that feeds your smaller regulator and then i would like to know where it goes from then please thank you :)
Were you still having cut out problems? I was thinking you could always put a fuel cell up front and have the pump up front for more direct flow and less area for pressure loss
@johannesmyhr To make a nitrous system deadly consistant, heating the bottle to the same pressure before each run is best, this vid is for entry level guys that just want to get it working, I dont think guys brand new to nitrous should be playing with bottle pressure as its easy to forget the blanket is on and way over heat the bottle. A nitrous system will work very well without a heater right till the bottle is empty, hope that helps, thanks for watching
I'm starting to think they launched Apollo 11 with less of a control system ..... and i'm sure the first 1/8 terminal speed was not up to yours. Great vidio..... keep up the good work.
@TheDieselStop Ah yes, another video of material right there, thanks for the idea. Wet is when fuel (gasoline) is added into the intake by opening a solenoid at the same time the nitrous solenoid opens. Dry systems rely on the engines fuel injection computer to detect a lean condition when only a nitrous solenoid opens and counter by injecting more gas to make the mix correct, this process happens in a milisecond or so
@rubypuppy7 Carbs work great for drag and its the cheapest way to feed a lot of power, I dont have much for fuel injection but would like to do some more fuel related videos
water does not add power like nitrous does. nitrous is an oxidizer making it possible to burn more fuel which in return makes more power. the water injection you most likely referring to is water meth injection which is used mainly boosted applications to keep intake air temps down to control detonation. also the colder the air going in the denser the molecules in the air are so in return you can add/ burn more fuel resulting in more power.
@170turbo Hmm, interesting. The guys with trouble could be jetted a tad rich on fuel or just the bottle refill was not done right, bottle warmers can come in handy at times
@heliarche The power increase is the same with the steering wheel button or the carb switch, I can control it, next year I want to get some better nitrous runs in
Hi I have a Malibu 1981 with LS2 6.0 engine carburated with 1 wet nitrious kit for drag and street and I hjave many problems with the carbretor and I want to upgrade to EFi but I want to keep the wet nitrous system what kind of manifold can I use for this ,I was looking a Pro flo 4 XT efi but No have port to connect the nitrous kit Regards
I'm looking for a safe jet setting I can start off with. I have a 496 bbc.with a tci power glide. also I have all the safety Rev limit switch, purge,fuel cut off switch, full throttle and steering button activation switch.
arggg.. i hate those hobbs pressure swiches, we got them in our equipment at work and they can't take the heat and fail regularly but blowing out the rubber plug and spraying oil and fuel every where...... i enjoyed the video...tho
doing a 2 stage on 90 5.0 mustang. (100/175). should I use an RPM window switch to turn on and off for consistency/saftey? what rpm? I'm thinking on @ 3800 via full throttle switch/ off 6800.. 2nd stage via momentary button on shifter handle..
Hi. Have been watching a lot of your videos, and i must say, they are really cool. I have a couuple of questions on the nitrous bottle-pressure part of this vid. If you fill the bottle to 900 psi and run it, the pressure will not be the same the next run, or the run after that. would this be causing it to run inconsistent numbers due to a fatter and fatter tuneup. I heat mine up to over the point where it should be, and purge them down after the burnout, making them have 1000 psi every time.
how much nitrous do you think a stock block 454 would take? It has all forged internals, head studs, and the piston rings are gapped a little over normal (not sure how much). Oh and it has a nitrous cam making about 550hp to the crank n/a. Thank you!
I know this is a dumb question but do you think it'd be damaging to put a nitrous kit on and old chevy 250 6 cylender with 150000 miles on it? like do you think i could bend a rod or something? the engine is completely stock with the aception of a holley 390 cfm carb
hi nice video , I have the same holley plate nitrous system as yours, with its own holley 130 fuel pump and BG regulator. also I have a BG400 and BG regulator for my fuel system on my dominator.my question is what jet sizes are you running for fuel and nitrous.
man nice vid....whats the car put out....my bird was built with for spray but neve got it thiught it might shorten life of motor..on pump gas its at 498 hp to wheels never dyno ed it with race fuel..or spray..i have used race feul and can really tell the diff...i want to get some spray..what would you start with...
@MrCarlosCruz1 Yo Bro Swap the 250 1-6 for a 350 V8 It will cost you less in the long run for more power. save them pennys and put the nitrous on a V8. Back to the 250 1-6 though, they respond very well to a nice lumpy cam and porting and polishing both the intake and exhaust or just do the intake and run headers (headers are better) but still port the flange to match the head a bit. BTW 250's are real easy but expensive to build up and if you must have nitrous put some forged pistons in it.
Hi I saw your info on window switches for nitrous systems.I have read that nitrous should not be used below 3000rpm but if you use the WOT switch that comes with the kit aren't you asking for trouble.I am confused. Thanks Ken
hey groutaone i got a 6 cyl dakota that NEEDS nitrous i was just gonna put a little tank in the glove box and rig it up to the carb and use a air valve to turn it on. thing is i dont want more than 50 shot not full out nitrous how can i regulate this
I LOVE that RPM switch... Ive always wanted a "go baby go" button in the LTD. I think its possible now. The main problem with people blowing their engines from nitrous is too much RPM and/or too little fuel right? If I have those covered...it SHOULD be non-detrimental to the motor right? Speaking of a 100hp shot on a built ford 400.
I think his questions generated from watching Fast and Furious. I'm not talking down on anyone but for someone who is just starting out with nitrous watching that movie will confuse you severely. In the movie they reach max speed and then hit the nitrous to go faster. It doesnt work that way max speed is max speed you just get there faster with nitrous
@MrCarlosCruz1 i put a 100 shot on a 96 4cyl accord non vtec with 170,000k, as long as you give it enough fuel it should be alright, but @groutaone is right in saying moderation. work ur way up. the only problem i had is the timing belt broke but i should have changed that berfore i put the kit on. its alot of fun but last time i bought nitrous it was 60 dollars for a 10lb bottle and the bigger the shot the faster it runs out.
Great video, interesting. I'm wondering about what you said about most plate systems like 5psi at the fuel solenoid for the nitrous. Is this the case for a stock fuel injected car. Carb engines usually around 7psi, where as fuel injected engines could be around 40psi fuel pressure. So would I run 40psi for example fuel pressure, then lower the nitrous fuel solenoid pressure to 5psi or is that just carbed engines?
@MRSROCKINROBIN Yes I race it, I do have some vids of it on the track you could find on my channel from last summer, it has gone 5:18 @ 132mph 1/8th with this engine