No installation needed - get 220v Tesla fast charging from a Nema 10-30 dryer plug for under $250 

That's not the only violation here. How many did you count?

he must've thought: "they call it 'ground' wire for a reason."

For sure it is!! Don't do that!

I just saw that. Really good observation!

The great thing about the Tesla is you tell it how many amps to draw. It goes down to 5 amps at minimum - set from the car or the app.

​@@Bryanbkk that's great, that's not what you did though and it's why some fires have started.

This is why I ordered a 10-30 adapter for my mobile connector. It matches the supply wiring so less chance of overloading the circuit.

I was thinking more of the type of max load in that line. A 32 amps charging tells me that is quite probable the breaker used in the distribution panel is a 40 or 50 amp breaker in that line. Am I wrong here?

@@francosepulveda8438 Exactly my thought. If it was a 30 breaker it shouldn’t peeked out that high without not setting off the breaker. I mean that is the purpose of it after all. Not to pass 30amps

I've been charing at 8 amps for the past year, with a rare need to bump up to 12-16 amps.

No doubt. But Tesla remembers the 6 amp setting each time I plug in. I only set a higher amp value if faster charging is needed, which is rare and I'm aware to avoid.

Can you explain this a little more. About the fire condition. I am about to do the same set up with my Tesla. The required amp’s for a 30amp breaker is 24? The charge set up should be at 24?

If what you're saying happens, your circuit breaker would trip if circuit breaker is only rated for 30 amps and it exceeds 30 amps . That's what circuit breakers are the designed for. so that the wiring doesn't exceed the amperage of the circuit breaker

Please don't listen to these paranoid people that don't seem to understand electricity

I read about this a while pack so I am loosely paraphrasing here. From what I understand the car will adjust those numbers down on their own as a safety feature and that is largely dependant on the wiring in your home. If I had to guess, heat is probably playing a factor and rather than blow the fuse or start a fire, the car adjusts down the amperage pull down. If you google it there should be some good information out there for you on this though.

Ask an electrician.

@@ewicky lol I know I’m just being lazy

The only value of the box vs splitter is if you can't keep track of when you're drying and when you're charging - if thats you - then the extra $250 is worth it. Otherwise drying and charging happen at different times and low to no hassle making sure you are not doing both. The other factor is the Tesla is set to 6-12 Amps, rarely need more - hence overload not an issue either. If I do need more Amps for a road trip - I take extra care to make sure the dryer is off. Not hard.

@@Bryanbkk OK, fair enough. For most people though, I think the risk of someone forgetting the car is charging and starting the dryer would be too great. It probably would just trip the breaker, but with the other systems, the dryer is automatically disconnected when the car is charging, preventing any potential issues. Depending on the dryer model, dryers can draw as much as 6000 Watts which is 25A. Even if you are just charging at 6 to 12A, it could still exceed the rating of the typical 10-30/14-30 dryer outlet by 2A to 8A. I personally think most people are too absent minded to safely save the $250. It wouldn't be worth the risk in my opinion. Also keep in mind, with the Tesla charging, the outlet is required to be de-rated by 20%, so it becomes a 24A outlet. This is required under the NEC for anything running over 2 hours to prevent overheating and fires on the outlet and wiring.

@@redbaron6805 Fair points. If we were doing more driving and drying, yes $250 more is a small price to pay for that peace of mind. Concerning the breaker, what is a reasonable about of faith to place in them? Operating correctly - doesn't a breaker prevent an overload issue that could lead to a fire?

@@Bryanbkk Breakers should be pretty reliable to be honest. I don't think that will be your weak point. The likely weak point will be the wiring from the breaker to the outlet, or the outlet itself. If that wire wasn't sized correctly, is chafed or kinked or the wire terminals are not tight on the outlet, or if the prongs in the outlet itself are worn, then you can a an area that heats up significantly. That is why the NEC de-rates any outlets that are used for over 2 hours by 20%. So, a 30A outlet is only rated for 24A for any device that draws from it over 2 hours. That was done precisely as a safety margin to prevent an issue with an old outlet with dirty or weak contacts, crusty wiring or anything else. Also keep in mind that the insulation on your cable has a temp rating. That cable can get pretty warm if you charge at its rated current. Hence, running it through the dryer hose which is already flowing with hot moist air could cause that insulation to melt. That is definitely frowned upon according to the NEC code. That being said, do I personally think that will be an issue? Probably not, as that UMC charger is rated for 40A and you only charging at 6A to 12A. Just pointing those out to error on the side of safety, despite the chances of you having issues being relatively low.

Well my clothes don't come out as toast, so I'm going to assume the heat is not an issue for a thick cable.

@@Bryanbkk Heat cycling and moisture could accelerate degradation of the cable over time. You're def not supposed to run anything but air through a dryer vent.

That's great!

Are you changing at 24A? If so have you noticed the cord getting warm after a few hours of changes?

There is a ground wire going into a traditional 110v outlet.

Hey Bruce... I have a ? if you can help... Can you plug an EV charger into an oven outlet? My oven is on a 50-amp breaker, the oven is 40 but breaker is 50. That being said, can you tell me if there's a mobile charger on Amazon or whatever that I can use to plug in the oven outlet? Thanks...

@@scottt725 You need to find a number on the outlet, or match it to a picture of 240v outlets, EV chargers need 2, 120 volt "Hot" wires and 1 ground wire, Or you (or a handyman/electrician) could change the outlet for the oven to one that matches the EV charger, like a NEMA 6-50, the 6-50 is the best outlet for an EV charger, and only charge at 40 amps or less with a 50 amp breaker.

@@bruceb9552 Thank you Bruce. I got a 10-50P to 14-50R 240V 50 Amp 3 Prong Male Plug and a 40 amp MUSTART Level 2 EV Charger NEMA 14-50. This should juice it up pretty good no?

@@scottt725 Sounds good, let us know how it works and the charging rate you are getting.

I have the same problem (a three-prong old outlet), but I just checked it and it is properly grounded via conduit. I will install the four-prong receptacle with a grounding pigtail attached to it. The charging is going to be less than 30 amps (using solar). This will take time since I decided to make all the necessary modifications before buying the vehicle, which is not going to be a Tesla. The breaker will be changed to a GFCI (except if the charger level 2 installation prohibits doing so). The charger itself might have an internal GFCI, and this can create problems. Good video!

Not sure why he is not just using SplitVolt or Dryer Buddy which does this automatically.

So far so good. Found that I do not need the full 24 amps nightly. 6-12amp on the 220v does fine. Also found that knowing when you are drying or charging is not hard. The extra $350 for a Splitvolt , when you can shut off charging from the app, seems a waste for us.

@@SerpentSuccessors yeah, but not recommended.

@@Bryanbkk yeah i’d be running a similar one with the splitter. just was curious if you ran into any problems

Fair point. Not the best route for most, but I think it's fair people know it's at least a temporary option.