I’ve had a NoMar for probably 15 years now. My first tire change was about as difficult as yours, but I watched a few of the NoMar videos and now change tires easily. I ride a BMW K1200LT which uses a very stiff REINF rear tire. There are three things that make changing these tires fairly quick and easy: 1. Use lots of lube and also use four 3/4” thick wooden blocks. Lube the tool tips as well as the tire. This technique was shown in one of the NoMar videos, I believe one changing a Gold Wing tire. I never found the yellow thing or their bead holding tools all that effective, but the wood blocks work great. Get the 3-4 blocks spaced 6” or so apart between the rim and the bead opposite where the dismount tool will be inserted and then push down on the tire as you lift up on the dismount bar and the bar will easily flop down over the rim. 2. Hold onto the tire, not the changer, when pulling the dismount bar around. I have the old style cam blocks that don’t grip as tightly as the holders you have, but I can still easily remove the tire with little spinning. Put your hip against the dismount bar, hold the handle with your right hand and pull on the tire with your left to pull yourself and the bar around the pivot bar. 3. Get the tire as warm as you can (the heater helps, but you can’t beat an hour in the sun on a warm day. And pull the bar around slowly, don’t try to rush it. I’m not sure why, but I have found that moving the bar and inch or so and then pausing for a couple seconds and then repeating makes it much easier. I think this gives the tire time to relax into the drop center and stretch a little against the dismount bar. I found that moving slowly and in small steps in need be resulted in the tire coming off with far less effort. I initially tried to spin the bar around in one fairly brisk motion, like a professional tire removal machine does, but found that doesn’t work well at all. I bought their long tire levers as they show using those also in the Gold Wing video as I recall, but found I don’t need them once I got my technique down. No harm in using them, but I found it faster now without them and less chance of scratching a rim.
Thanks for the tips. I have changed another tire since. Someone else suggested using a ratchet strap to help hold the wheel still and that helped me a lot.
I remember watching your videos when i was 15-16 years old. Now im almost 23 i still think you are so underrated, u should have much more subs and views.
Been changing street bike tires for almost 50 yrs. I've had a NoMar classic for 6-7 yrs, and change ~10 tires a year. A few pointers to help you out: > lube each wheel side at the rim edge BEFORE breaking the bead. "Pumping" the bead breaker helps lube seep into the bead. > use a strap around a wheel spoke and the changer to prevent tire rotation. The owner of NoMar doesn't believe this is needed - he is wrong (I've known him since before NoMar existed) > the yellow thing and wood block are not needed for demount. > get a better rim protector that snaps onto the rim. It is typical to need a tire iron to get the 1st bead over the demount tip. Lever the bead away, and use other hand to push opposite bead into the drop center, then grab the bar and insert the demount tip. > lift the tire where the demount tip is and rotate the bar to get started. Once a small part of the bead is over the rim, no need to hold it up. > get a nylon tire bead clamp drop center tool ($10 amazon). Mounting: > push the bead down by hand, then insert the drop center tool. > insert the mount bar head > insert the yellow thing, push ~90 deg or so, then insert wood block behind it to keep in place > rotate mount bar. You show you know to keep pushing the bead into the drop center I think you will find a tire change goes much easier with these tips. The only time a tire tool is needed is for demount, and usually only the top bead. Sometimes I have to use an iron iron to get the lower bead onto the demount tip with rear tires. Good luck!
Yes, I always apply the spray lube before I break the bead letting the lube run down around the bead as it is pushed down by the tool. I agree with most of your other suggestions and do much the same. I have not found a need to use a strap to prevent rotation if the proper technique is used. That technique being to use the tire itself to pull the dismount bar around. Newton’s third law and all. I also found the bead tools from NoMar to be ineffective (yellow thing and Xtrahands). What works best for me is simple 3/4” pine blocks that I place between the bead and rim at about 6” spacing on the half of the tire opposite where I will start the dismount bar. The holds the bead down so that is easily slips into the drop center with no need to have to try to push down on the tire while pulling on the dismount bar. This allows my left hand to pull on the tire to pull me and the dismount bar around the pivot bar and this keeps the tire from rotating. Quite easy once you get the hang of it. Using the NoMar is 90% technique and maybe 10% muscle. When I first tried it I was using 90% muscle and 10% technique and that didn’t work so well.
@@LTVoyager 👍 Technique required is heavily dependent on the rim drop center design and the tire type. Some combinations do not require a strap for mounting, some do. Sounds like you use a tire iron to push the bead down to insert wood blocks - good it works. I prefer the drop center tool and yellow thing.
@@dougfreeman3229 No, I can insert the blocks by hand. I push down with one hand and slip the block in the other. Only need 3/4” of an inch and that isn’t too bad, especially with a warm tire. A cold tire is more difficult to be sure, but I weigh 220 and still am fairly strong for 64. It was definitely easier when I was 50. I almost never use a tire iron now. All I use is the mount/dismount bar and four small wood blocks about 1”x3”x3/4”. The wood blocks are second in importance only to lots of lube. Until you have tried them, you won’t believe the difference they make.
@@LTVoyager I use blocks, in a different way. I suppose if they are long enough, they could be inserted by hand without an iron. I fail to see the benefit vs buying 1 drop center tool for $10. I weigh 260 and have weight trained for 50 years, its not about muscle. I’ll do it may way, you do it your’s, and we’ll both think the other is wrong 😁
@@dougfreeman3229 I never said your way was wrong. I was simply offering an alternative. I tried the drop center tools first and round them awkward and they got in the way. When I saw the NoMar video on the wood blocks I decided to give it a try and they work great and are unobtrusive to the dismount bar.
I have the same tire changer. I think you did not have enough lube (I use the paste AND the spray), tires were too cold and the posi clamps were not tight enough. Yes, takes a lot force to keep those wheels from rotating
This exactly represents my experience with ours. 20 tires later it goes better but yeah I still don’t do it in 2 minutes like many videos seem to show.
The tough tires and wheels without a good drop center can make it a miserable experience, even if you're used to tires. If you change many, think about this one. If you don't do it much, there's always the option to pay a pro with a tire machine when you need it.
Glad it's helpful! I should have probably mentioned in the video that this one has a pretty sturdy center bar and it has an adapter on the end to size the bar down and let it fit smaller bearings and such. Those are good things for scooter wheels that won't fit the center post on a lot of changers.
If you're looking for alternatives, just keep in mind what you want to do. If you do scooter wheels and tires, then it's important to have a strong center post because mast bars are not going to fit through a lot of scooter wheels without removing the wheel bearings and still may not fit the ones with axle splines for the rear. This thing does have a good strong center post. It uses a small adapter on the end to go into smaller bearings and that sort of thing could probably be pretty easily done to center bars on other changers. My other thought was to come up with something to use a duckhead mount/dismount tool, but by the time I could make something or modify a cheaper changer, it made more sense to me to just get this.
Your difficulty with the rear tire install looks like you either did not put any lube on the drop center or did not put enough lube on the drop center. I had the same issue with my tires until I followed the No-Marr instructions and videos more accurately and lubed the drop center of the wheel with sufficient lube. Also to help keep the already installed part of the bead down below the drop center there are plastic items you can purchase called Bead Clamp Drop Center Tool that help make installing the tires easier. I have used Coats and Harbor Freight Motorcycle changers and if I had to pick from my experiences again, I would spend the money for the No-Marr again. I had to modify the Harbor Freight unit a lot in order to do my motorcycle tires and once the Motorcycle optional unit is bolted on top of the Tire Changer, the assembly is so high that removing and mounting tires is difficult because I couldn't get enough leverage on the mount/demount bar. I am 5' 8" tall and 160 pounds. I found that Dunlop tires were the most difficult to work with compared to Michelin, Continental and Metzler. Those were the brand tires I changed the most. I have also used a variety of power tire changers and for my home shop I am very happy with the No-Marr manual changer. Some of my auto mechanic friends hate doing wide automotive performance tires as found on the rear of Corvettes, with powered changing machines, yet if I follow the No-Marr directions, especially the "lube the drop center" . . . mounting even a 305/40R18 on an 18" by 11" wheel is not very difficult, easier even than your installing the rear tire on this video. My pick up truck tires are a breeze because the side wall is tall and the rubber flexes much more. Lastly, you shouldn't need to use the Yellow Thing when dismounting the tires.
The black plastic wheel rim holders are next to impossible to use. One person cannot push the wheel down hard enough to get the rim under the edge and keep it there while trying to get the rim trapped under the other two. Tire sidewall is too stiff to get the wheel down far enough to trap.
Hmmm, tough decision. The Rabaconda is awfully expensive. How hard was it to seat those threads into your concrete floor? Also will No Mar handle quad tires? Thanks! Great video!
The anchors weren't the easiest job, but not terrible. You'll need a masonry bit and a hammer drill. I had a problem with the drill walking and making a larger hole at the top on the first one. Then I used the base of the NoMar while I drilled and that made nice holes by keeping it from moving during drilling. I've only done the tires shown and smaller scooter tires, but this is what their site says; "Use for street bikes, dirt bikes, ATV, Side-by-Sides, trailers and more!".
Почему так мало просмотров? ваш канал гораздо лучше по качеству и объёму информации, чем наши русские каналы. Желаю вам больших успехов и они с таким количеством информации ещё обязательно будут!
@@49ccscoot Well, everything is still ahead. By the way, try to make the ignition earlier by washing down the clutch, on which there is a hall sensor of 2-3 millimeters. This gives a noticeable increase in power. the main thing is not to overdo it
So I’m going to ask straight forward… I own seven genuine buddies. They have 10 inch rims. I’m sick of changing tires the old-school way. I will take your advice on this without question. Is this tire changer the solution that I’m looking for? Will it work with the scooters that I own? Thank you for your response. Tim, from Forest Hills, PA.
This will do 10" wheels. It does make the job easier than with irons. That said, it's expensive. If you haven't tried already, consider a good pair of tire irons. I like the Motion Pros that also help for breaking the bead (link below). You should still have irons around anyway for using the tire changer, though if going NoMar you could use their stuff which has plastic to prevent marring. The 10" tires that I've done aren't low profile and super stiff, so they haven't been as tough to change as others. If you do get the NoMar, using a ratchet strap around a spoke helps a lot to hold the wheel still. I got some shorter ones for tying down scoots and they are a little nicer to work with for this too. Also linked below. (Affiliate Links) Irons : amzn.to/4fOxWed Rim Protectors : amzn.to/4715O3l Ratchet Straps : amzn.to/3yFsp98 Don't mean to spam you with links, but those are what I use. Actually, my irons are an older, slightly shorter, version, but I'd get that version if buying today.
Conrod length can affect timing requirements. If you download the ignition manual here, you can see how they change timing based on conrod length and stroke : stage6-racing.com/en/download/
Hi, I follow your videos from the beginning, thank you for that. I learned a lot. Everytime I watch your videos it's getting better and better. 😊 Best Regard Travel and Food channel #a4life1
condensed version "I paid $500 and STILL had to use tire irons and STILL scratched my rim" hmmm....I am trying to decide on this or the rabaconda streetbike set up? Which is more money....and there is also the No Mar Classic?? again more money
@@dougiequick1 Cycle Hill HD. 362.95 US dollars, plus 817.92 US dollars shipping. It looks a bit flimsy anyway so even at a reasonable cost I probably wouldn't bite.
