I don’t, particularly if the pruning will induce more harm to the trees. When pruning, you need to have a reason that suites your trees and environment.
My man, you made me smile with joy and happiness!!! I inherited a small house from my father, and when I moved here, the garden had 11 trees all local subtropical. During the last five years I added 62 tropical trees, while another nine are waiting for the next spring to be planted and I'm not stopping there! The ultimate goal is for no sunshine reaching the ground. So basically doing exactly what you are doing with the only difference that I grow a ton of cacti in pots under the shade, and also my garden has an average size pond and lots and lots of 100 to 400 gallon "ponds" under the trees (so that the moisture can help with the microclimate) for my stronger passion, the water lilies and other aquatic plants.
That’s awesome. The ponds will definitely help to slightly humidify the place. On occasions, I use some of my pond water to water the newly planted trees, as the water is quite nutritious to plant roots.
Thank you. There are so many tropical fruit trees that do very well in our climate. I’m really not sure where people get the notion that tropicals don’t grow here.
It's very interesting that you mentioned growing tropical fruits that you've tasted growing up as a child. I'm doing the same thing. Born in Asia eating tropical and subtropical fruits was a delicacy and a special treat when I was a child. Now I want to replicate that surreal feelings in my backyard. And you've accomplished it. I'm so jealous.
You definitely can replicate growing the trees and fruits you were used to in our region. Hopefully some of my videos help with the replication process.
@@TropicalCentralValley Yes your videos have been very helpful and you have been so kind to reply back with all my questions. I have tons of Q's but I don't want to kill you with all of them all at the same time, lol 😂. Need you alive for my trees.
Thank you for the tour of your tropical yard during winter this gives me an idea what I can or shouldn’t grow in my area. I live in Oregon, close to the coastal areas and thinking of growing tropical trees in the house for now until we build a greenhouse in the spring.
Although your region is a bit cold, you may actually be able to get away with some of the more hardy tropical fruit trees. Without knowing your USDA Zone, and assuming it’s 8 - 9, you may be able to grow loquats, cherimoya, jamun, Capulin cherry, Surinam cherry and jaboticaba in the ground.
Just discovered your channel. I live in Bakersfield, 70 miles south of Visalia, so the information is relevant to me climate wise. I have 5 different figs growing in 15 gallon pots because figs are not something that ships well to grocery stores so they are unavailable. I have two different peach trees in 15 gallon pots because I am tired of seldom finding ripe peaches in the market. I have one loquat and one kumquat in 15 gallon pots because these are unavailable in grocery stores. I would not mind having a white sapote, but I don't think they will grow in pots.
That’s awesome. I drive by Bakersfield all the time, usually when on my way to the LA region. Almost all tropical fruit trees do well in containers, including a white sapote. I would not, for example, put a mulberry or moringa in a container as they are super fast growers with extensive root system. I recently made a video on the topic of growing tropical fruit trees in containers: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TKLUyN2zJHU.html Specific to white sapote, your local Lowe’s may carry them in May/June. That’s where I got mine.
Really nice garden. You have planted really close. Some of them look like less than 1 metre apart. I have very limited space and your video really encourages me. My concern is as the tree grows will they be then fighting for space? So you have to eventually prune heavily ? What's your strategy as your trees grow bigger and spread out
Hello! Much appreciate all your videos. Always inspiring. I live in Phoenix, AZ. I have a Peanut Butter tree in the ground for a year and a half now, slow grower, around 4 ft tall, but did fruit last summer. I have a White Sapote in a pot I want to plant this spring and I'm thinking of planting it close to the peanut butter tree. Do you have a suggestion on how much space would be good to leave between the trees? I'm thinking they are both slow growers, but eventually the Sapote will be more of a canopy tree and the peanut butter will be kept as more of a bush. Thanks in advance!
That’s awesome. From the perspective of space, many of my tropical fruit trees are planted just feet’s apart, particularly with my slower growing and smaller sized trees. For instance, my white sapote is about 3 feet away from my mango, atemoya, and wax jambu trees and they all do fine.
You're 100% correct - taste memory is the reason why I moved to Los Angeles so I can grow atis. I was only 3 when I left the Philippines, but my most fond memories was eating atis with my grandmother. Growing up in the US Army and moving around all over the world, it was impossible to acquire fresh atis - let alone grow them in places like Germany, Japan, and Maryland. Let's be honest, even my first atis died in the ground when I first bought my house L.A. - so even here they can be a challenge to get started. Thanks to you, I learned about Mimosa Nursery. I went there a few days ago and purchased an atis tree as well as a red atemoya. I'm next to Korea Town and I'm told, for good measure, do not transplant them into the ground until May. What's your opinion on this? The central valley is in zone 9, while I'm in Zone 10a. But I've seen some of my plants at the edge of my property turn deciduous because of wind gusts - I guess even in the 40's, winds can have a chilling effect like it was 32F.
That’s awesome. Sugar apple trees are a bit cold sensitive and may drop their foliage stressed, however, the tree itself is fine and will likely grow replacement foliage when it feels ready. Although your climate practically never experiences frost, to err on the side of caution, I’d wait until at least April to put it in the ground. If waiting until May, it may actually be a bit too hot and the tree itself may stress due to the heat. Once established, the tree loves the heat.
We’ve been going to 2 weeks of straight 100° plus days. The mango tree had to share its energy with the mango fruits, otherwise, it would have looked nice.
I have a very similar philosophy as you. Another reason I'm getting away from Stone fruits and deciduous trees is because of the chill hour requirements and the variability and the erratic nature of our weather here (SoCal). We get random 90° + weather in winter and spring which really confuses the deciduous trees.
That’s great. Mine was planted about 3 months ago and as such, it’s roots are still finding its place in the ground. This is normally not an issue, however, when the weather hits 105° for 2 weeks, with about 15% humidity, the tree will appreciate some help.
Impressive collection! You really pack them in and I think you need more Manila mangos :) How old is that large Inga and has it ripened fruit yet? Thanks!
Thank you. My ultimate goal is to see no sunlight hitting the ground. I have great plans for the Manila. They will serve as great rootstock hosts to other mango varieties. My Inga is going 4 years old, but the winter of 2018-2019, it died down to the roots due to the frost. It has since made a great comeback. Lots of flowers. I haven’t spotted any beans yet.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thanks for the reply! There is a youtuber out in my area (Arizona Fruit Trees) that also has a huge Inga but has never seen fruit. It's maybe the lack of humidity as people in San Diego and FL seem to have no issues even when they are young to get fruit but its a beautiful and beneficial tree even without fruit. One more question--do you apply gypsum? Thanks again.
I know of Jay and have watched his channel. He’s my go to for all things compost. I have not used gypsum and instead, rely on my mulch and organisms to improve and loosen my soil.
Another great video!!! Your collection continues to grow. I have a few seedlings of sunset solo papaya, and Mexican papaya that im going to put in ground as well. I have 1/2 acre lot to work with
The 25 gallon containers were purchased from Mimosa Nursery in Los Angeles. I made a video last year touring the place: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YfOMOSsuGIo.html
Do you have any plans on trying to grow a coconut? Reading on the palm forums some apparently bear fruit in palm desert and also by the salton sea. Kind of similar climate to yours. I’m trying to grow a dwarf Malaysian green and yellow and they survived last winter. I’m near Santa Barbara on the coast. So far the yellow has preformed a little better. They’re averaging a new frond every month to 1.5 months.
Probably no just because “fresh” coconuts are readily available for me to purchase from my local grocery stores. The Yellow Malayan variety (presumably what you had) is purported to be frost hardy.
The 25 gallon black containers were all purchased from Mimosa Nursery in Los Angeles. As I recall, they were about $12 a piece. Being the size they are, I don’t know you can get them for that price if purchased online, particularly with shipping costs.
@@TropicalCentralValley That is why I am watching your channel, the second one on tropical fruits that I find compatible with me, in terms of the yard size and zone 9b.
I wouldn’t say it’s a problem. I do have earwigs, pill bugs, roaches, etc. that live in my wood chip and mulch. However, just like the worms, these insects serve as the primary decomposers and their activities greatly benefit my yard. Additional, these insects very much prefer the outdoors where there’s plenty of food and shelter.
Thank you. I tried not to let the roots grow beyond the containers, but with the amount of mulch I have surrounding the containers, this is difficult. I have had to sever the container roots before and it’s not a pleasant process, but in order to relocate the containers, it must be done.
I have a wax champu tree for more than 5 years. Tree is planted next to the house facing south. Very healthy, but no fruits ( got a few fruits when I got it). Any suggestions such as how to prune it or what kind of fertilizer I should use?
That’s odd. Even from seed, they generally produce fruits within 5 years. As with all of my tropical fruit trees, during the flowering stage, I would increase the phosphorus and potassium while eliminating nitrogen entirely. Also, see if you can increase your watering around that time as well.
@@TropicalCentralValley both taste the same or different? Which one is the sweetest? Also, which one is more hardy? If you had limited space, which one out of these 2 will you grow?
I wouldn’t use sweetness as a guideline for taste. If seeking sweet, the Manila mango is the world’s sweetest fruit. In terms of hardness, the Mangosteen is incredibly sensitive to both cooler and hot temperatures. If your climate permits, I would try both.
Smart thinking! We only have Red Malaysian guava and papaya in our yard so far. Which 5 fastest growing tropical fruit trees would you recommend for containers on a small, but sun-scorched patio? Thanks.
Jamun, also known as Duhat and Java Plum for sure. Super fast growing. Also try the Capulin Cherry. Both can take the heat and grows insanely fast. You’ll want a relatively large size container, maybe a 25 gallon.
Hi, I see most of your trees are not planted in the ground. Why so? I would love to keep them on the container so I can buy more fruit trees too. Can you tell me your experience in leaving them on containers and what tropical fruit thrive on containers? Thank you. I love your content always interesting to me.
Thank you. The majority of my trees are in the ground, but about 20% are in containers. The trees in the ground will always do better than the ones in containers due to the mycorrhizal network and other resources made available to the trees. The trees in containers require consistency, particularly when it comes to watering and fertilizing. Additional, the black containers get really, really hot; this ends up hindering and sometimes harming the growth of the tree.
@@TropicalCentralValley Thank you for your reply. This is helpful when considering leaving the trees in the container. Please keep making videos. We enjoy them very much.
Your jungle fruit forest is awesome. I’d like to create something similar on my half acre but many of my tropicals are looking stunted and just not growing. Not sure why I think I over watered some of them or maybe they don’t like my alkaline water
In my expeeience growing tropicals, I have seen trees seem stunted, not growing, same size no new growth but then 2 maybe 3, sometimes less years they get a super growth spurt. I guess they are trying to adapt and are not familiar with there new home. I also seen grafted trees have a longer adjusting period than a seedling.
Watching again, I noticed your Lancetilla is in a pot!! I’ve wanted to try one in a pot, but I’ve been hesitant. How big is your pot? How long has it been in the pot?
Mango trees do very well in containers. In fact, for starters, I would argue that they do much better in containers than in the ground, as they require a very particular set of soil requirements. Mine has been in the 25 gallon container for 2-3 years now.
I have not done a video yet covering soil. The main issue with mango trees obtained from nurseries is the fact that the majority of them originated from Florida, with wood based “soil” in the container, which basically allows the tree to stay alive for a few years. Ideally, you’ll want to replace the original soil with your own, however, this is a tricky and time consuming process.
Best would be beginning of April, when the threat of frost is completely gone. Or, September if you want the tree to go through its first winter, though I would recommend you frost protect it. Manila mango does very well and is quite productive. Lancetilla mango as well, though, they’re a bit less forgiving.
@@TropicalCentralValley that is very generous of you and I would greatly appreciate that. Let me know if you're looking for something in particular and I may be able to trade you something. Thanks again! Greg
You can grafted or air layering or even grow from seed and sell, what is your city name in Central valley?. I interest in visiting your plants, I live in Lakewood next to Long Beach.
Do you ever have leaf miners on your new citrus leaves ? I get them here in Cerritos . They slip past my spraying of Captain Jack's spinosa (organic) . Recently my 12 cocktail/champagne grapefruit seedlings were fine and had dark green leaves , then the outer larger leaves were hit bad . I was told that they dont hurt the tree but it still must cut back energy the baby's are absorbing from sunlight ?
Some of my citrus trees, particularly the Kaffir Lime and the Cara Cara orange trees do get leaf miners. Unfortunately, once they’re in the leaves, the best option is to pluck the leaves and trash it. I had been planning on using products such as Tanglefoot, but was too late this year, as the moths had already woke up.
@@TropicalCentralValley I have 12 established citrus trees and see giant swallowtail butterflies often as they lay their eggs in citrus . No major damage to report so far . As a matter of fact I have only found 1 cacoon ever . They are really beautiful to watch . The male and female have similar but different markings . I guess because when I was a kid at my old house , a elderly neighbor gave me a butterfly collection and I naturally became interested