@@thelol1759 I actually drained one recently on a type 9 transmission with the newer blue fluid someone had put red fluid so yea we just opened the inspection hole rotated the engine over and found the bolt and bam
@TrapperAaron my 89 F150 C6 automatic transmission had a drain plug on the torque converter, makes perfect sense. Most of the fluid is inside the torque converter, not all ford converters have them.
@@TrapperAaron It Makes perfect sense. Every 4r70 I’ve seen , car or truck, between 1994-2002 had a drain bolt on the torque converter. It’s a drain plug. For draining. Which is something you should do if you changing the transmission fluid. Just dropping the pan will only get you maybe 5 quarts. On average; Between the pan & filter, transmission cooler, and torque converter. The 4r70 holds close to 12-13 quarts. Although it’s nearly impossible to flush the transmission cooler itself on some fords because they have a thermostat integrated into the transmission cooler. This was implemented to allow for the transmission to reach operating temperature faster. So unless there is a flush machine that heats the atf to 180 degrees which I’ve never heard of or seen; the cooler can’t be flushed. This means you would have to replace the cooler if it ever became contaminated
After pan drop, filter change, magnet clean, and refill, many times on many vehicles I have taken the cooler line loose and added fluid through the fill port while someone starts the engine … Pan never runs dry this way and with a piece of clear tubing running to your drain pan you can visibly see the color change of the fluid. In any case thank you for caring enough about the customer's vehicle to get more old fluid out and more new fluid in!
Absolutely on the trans cooler lines. I didn't think I would know when to stop, but it's amazing how much different old and new trans fluid looks. It doesn't fade clearer and clearer making it difficult to know when to stop, no. It almost abruptly changes from iced tea colored to Kool-Aid red. Very satisfying to see.
@@imgonnagogetthepapersgetth8347 The way to do it is pump into a a large fluid container (I used a 2.5 gallon oil jug) so you know how much goes out versus what you're putting in.
I get what you’re saying and doing, and I’m all of mechanics educating people about their cars. But you know people are gonna pick out every misspoken word and such. Please keep doing what you’re doing man
@@wesleywlee Your intentions are good I’m sure but you’re wrong objectively. All advice isn’t good advice. The vast majority of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter which holds it hostage regardless of how long you leave the pan off. Please only encourage people after you’ve checked the validity of their credentials or information.
Best way I found was to drop all I could refill and repeat until it came out clean! It’s a hassle but you get all the old fluid out by letting the trans flush it self out!
Unfortunately that's not how automatic transmissions work. It's not like the engine oil dump. The trans pan will generally only hold 1/3 of the total fluid capacity
my 16 honda has one. Square insert just stick a breaker bar straight into it, drain and fill then use check bolt to check level. however my zf trans on my 4 series is a different job
I disconnected my tranny hose from the radiator into a pan then start it up and let it push ALL the fluid out when it starts to run out shut it off refill it and do it again. U will watch fluid go from black to brown to red and I have done this on over 40 different types of vehicles and never had a issue except awesome results...this completely drains the torque converter. You can blow the radiator/trans cooler with a air hose
You can do a perfectly serviceable full fluid exchange by disconnecting a transmission cooler line and letting the transmission pump the fluid into your receptacle as you add fluid to the transmission.
I knew an old guy who would slightly raise the vehicle. He would run a clear tube from the return (dirty) line into a marked bucket and add fluid at the same rate. He had done it enough times to know fast he would need to add. The only problems I saw with his system was #1 You needed to be 100% focused. One on the bucket and one eye on your supply. #2 Unless you were fast (really fast) you kind of needed a helper to shut down the engine as soon as you were done. I forget when the guy passed away, maybe mid 2000's, so newer transmissions may be a lot less "forgiving" to being a little under or over filled.
Unhook both lines at trans cooler or radiato and connect hoses on each one. One going to a bucket with clean fluid and the other pumping into an empty bucket. It will suck up the new fluid and flush out the old. Once it comes out clean shut if off, reconnect lines and run it while checking level. If it's too high unhook the return line and run it to pump some fluid out and recheck after reconnecting lines or use a hose on a hand siphon down the fill tube if it has one to remove fluid as well.
The cooler return doesn't run though any kind of pump. It is a pressurized return from the cooler feed. It cannot suck. You'll be left with 2 buckets, one full of clean ATF and an empty trans sump and one with a few quarts of dirty ATF.
@@lukemalloy2488 talking about the lines coming from the trans to the cooler, not leaving the lines connected at the cooler and disconnecting at the trans
have bought a fiat 500 with 100,000 miles on the automatic transmission & never changed before so decided to easy drain 2-3 quarts at a time and drive to see how it handled the new fluid..did this about 5 times while I tried to measure out same as I put in while I ordered the dips tick it never had..a few more changes and it might start to get red..but so far still dark...I wanted to try a cooling line flush but figured it might be too much ..so far no issues!
On my personal vehicles I do two changes back to back the first change will mix what’s left of the dirty fluid and then the second will be completely fresh
I do a drain and fill on my old Toyota's transmissions at every oil change. Cheap insurance and they staying feeling new. Never drop the pans and drive them half a million miles. Rust eventually takes everything out, lol.
My transmission filter got clogged I noticed the transmission fluid was black and wouldn't drive I changed the filter and fluid and it drives good now but the transmission fluid turned black again do you recommend I change the fluid s second time
@@boostedkidproductions9719 something else is the issue. Like someone said it might be overheating. Does the transmission whine going up hill? You could have the fluid tested for degradation at dealership. It will tell you exactly if the fluid is degrading from what.
@@boostedkidproductions9719 also change the fluid couple of times because the torque converter holds a lot of fluid. Might be black because mixed in with the oil fluid.
Some people hate Saturns but they had the right idea when it came to transmission fluid. It had a filter just like and engine oil filter and a drain plug. You could change the fluid easy as an oil change.
@Online Mechanic Tips I'm not sure what years were like that but I had a late 90s saturn car that way. I remember guys taking the trans filter off at an oil change place I worked at thinking it was the oil filter.
Woooo!! I had 3 Saturns, and never knew that!! SL2 5sd, SL1 Auto both 94’s and one 97 SL Auto … Damm cars ran flawlessly forever!! Good on gas too out that Toyota branded motor 👍🏽😂
Also to get a little more fluid out u can drain from radiator and hoses if u are trying to get the most out of you really want to get active with it flush out the transmission radiator to get out out sediment from your system
All the commenters with their fancy flush methods; the drain and fill method used here is a much safer way to exchange fluid in a transmission particularly with older/high mileage vehicles. By doing this you prevent metallic debris from getting lodged in the valve body. This dude knows what he's doing.
YES! A 3x drain and fill is my gold standard. I will do the pan drop, filter change and first refill. Drive for a tank of gas and drain and fill again (I’ll notice some wear metal and debris, likely coming loose from the detergency of new ATF), then drive it for another tank and repeat. This last drain is just fluid and I never see any wear metals or debris on the third run. After that, it’s every other oil change until the fluid is predominantly red and I switch to 30k intervals.
@@BrandonWest87 Ace! Yes, if a simple pan drain-and-fil removes 50% of the total amount, then 3x pan drain-and-fills will exchange 90% of the total amount. That's just mathematics.
I've never understood why most trans pans don't have a drain plug. Thankfully my f250 does so I just drain it once a year and refill. I'll change the filter this year too.
@@TheFORDman256 yes, but with the pan on..I have the pan off this car. Imo a flush job is risky and worthless if it does not include changing the filter. If you doing them both, good for you my friend
Or unhook the cooler lines let gravity bleed to plus the cooler or use compressed air out of your air compressor turn down the regulator on the compressor
Plus whoever said Fords use to have a drain plug in the converter I've used made a magnetic drill bit drilled the converter tapped in with pipe thread tap put a quarter inch pipe plug in it I've also started it up real quick let it pump itself out I'm 63 my dad owned operated a Standard Oil Station for 52+yrs 60 total plus an friend that taught how to rebuild trans taught me these things. That you can just stay over a little bit get the job done then that day so when you come in tomorrow morning it's a whole new day nothing weighing you down overnight go home or the tavern for a cold six pack drink one take 6 home with you done that many times picked a young lady when I wasn't married women seemed to love a hard working man in a uniform even use to carry a clean uniform with in car ,truck whatever I had sometimes drove a customers vehicle trouble shooting staying one step ahead for in the morning tomorrow even did that when I worked at the dealership and after I built my own three bay three in ground lifts service center have to always be thinking how to stay ahead of the game making your life easier
@@frankm4277True. Or just do it yourself. Some of these car projects are super easy with the help of tutorial videos. If someone isn't comfortable doing the job, definitely take it to a dependable shop as you stated earlier.
I did this to change the strainer after 200k miles. Everything was very clean and strainer barely had any particles in it. But I changed my transmission oil every 50k miles.
i usually change the filter n refill, then put the cooler lines in buckets, suction line in a full of new fluid one and an empty for the other, run it till its clean as, check level and adjust, done 👌 uses alot of fluid that way but i dont mind as it ends up in the fuel tank of my old diesel truck anyway 😂
@@Petem7668 the flush? Yeah just make sure you get the lines in the right orientation or you'll end up with an air pocket. Or you mean running an old mechanical injection diesel on used oil? Yeah you can, usually filter it through a reuseable shopping bag and put it in the tank, though if i think the oil might have water in it, i put it in a separate tank and drain out the bottom litre or so a week later to see if its "wet" otherwise in the tank it goes, best results from 50/50 diesel to oil, but a hot summer, 100% used oil works. Just hard to start if its cold overnight
@@Colt45hatchback you answered both perfectly, thanks for answering and passing on the knowledge. I’m still pretty new to all of this and I’ll definitely look more into it and be using this.
On my 03 Ranger I pulled the trans cooler lines and started the truck. Added fluid while the trans pumped out the old. Once it turned bright red its flushed. This was all after dropping the pan and changing the filter.
I always catch the old fluid in case the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly. Always a good way without a dipstick to measure what you need to put back in.
If the new fluid doesn't allow the trans to shift correctly, you probably need a new trans. And the old one was on the way out, putting the old friction into the trans is a band-aid.
@Audi Aug 815 Listen if the transmission shifts like shit and brought it in and wont with new fluid its gone. But some people dont have money like that old fluid back in will get it off my lift
@@CodyDoesIt You have no idea how much sense your comment doesn’t make. For the love of all things holy, please tell me that you only work on your vehicles in your imagination? Never touch a real one please.
@@bigwheel9132 haven’t done this before but you have to understand that some people don’t have expendable income. Meaning that doing it right is not an option for them. It could be food on their table for their family vs a proper transmission flush.
got a 97 volvo 850 I bought about a month ago, that has a drain plug for the auto transmission and when I got the vehicle the fluid was almost black, the first thing i did after oil change was pop the drain plug and drain everything that'll come out of the bottom of the transmission ( of course it was over full so the 2.5q or so thats supposed to come out was more like 3.75q or so) and then added about 2.5 of clean ATF, before moving the car from where u did the service, you start vehicle and slowly shift down through the gears of the transmission and back up with at least a 5Mississippi count between each shift. Then drive like normal for about 100 miles and repeat 2 more times, Ive done it twice and the have yet to put on 100 miles since the second plug pop but the color on the dipstick was like Insaid almost black after the first it became more of a brown now its like maroon. According to one persons math the total amount of fluid changed out by the 3rd "flush" is something like 86% of old so only 14 percent remained
While the oil drain plug is out, i crank the engine on a few times. That way it drains the oil filter before I remove it off my 4.0 Tacoma. I also think it helps flush it out better. If the oil light comes on I don’t crank the engine anymore.
Believe it or not in the old days on the turbo 350s and the turbo 400s we actually used to drill into the torque converter and then we would plug it with a rivet with a permatex. Yep… did it all the time and never ever had a leak.
if a trans filter is the metal mesh screen type like in toyotas, then changing is a waste of time. those filters will only catch catastrophic chunks which means it's screwed at that point anyways. contaminants are left in fluid suspension, and the pan magnets catch the usual filings.
Clutches break down over time and that material goes into the filter. Also, sometimes filters can (in rare cases) break down with age. Heat cycles also plays a role in trans fluid breakdown. Trans fluid doesn’t get dark and lose its lubrication abilities on its own… In all the vehicles I have had serviced, there was a noticeable improvement in shifting. both my american and foreign vehicles. Lastly, why do you think higher end performance cars have a 1k mile transmission break in before getting the filter/fluid changed and then a 25k transmission service afterwards? Things wear down.
Yank a trans line off, put a drain pan under it and start the car. The trans pump will evacuate the fluid for you. Then reattach the line and refill. Easy peasy and no pan. Good trick between filter changes
To Swap All ATF, You can run engine with cooler lines disconnected. Have one line sucking new fluid and other in drain pan. Run transmission through gears.
@@drpthemc older Hondas recommend like that through AllData repair. 2003 and newer Honda recommends to drain pan/case 3x and you get like 90% of fluid changed. I would NOT flush transmission with flushing machine. Usually just stirs up contamination and creates problems down the road
In older cars we would pull the pan and when it was almost finished dripping we would start the engine for about 2 or 3 seconds and shut it off, pumping more fluid out, we'd remove the torque converter drain on Ford's
@@OnlineMechanicTips I'm not sure if Ford's still have them or not, but in older Ford Lincoln and Mercury had a drain plug in them, I worked at a gas station back in the late 80's and early 90's afte that.r that I'm not sure I just did mechanic work, oil change guys did all
Looks like the pan on my 2008 Dodge Dakota. Easy filter replacement it looked just like that. No drain plug so you had to remove the pan just like this.
Ater that i usually disconnect the like that pumps into the radiator, turn it on or have someone turn it on for a bit. Turn it off check the amount u pulled put some new. Then repeat until clean 👍
For a more complete drain, the torque converter needs to be drained. My last vehicle that had one was a 1976 Dodge 1 ton. Senseless that many auto manufacturers eliminated this feature.
While the filter is important, the fluid should be your main focus. Your method is called a ATF change, not flush. A change will will only take about a 1/3 out. Listen to others who say to use the transmission cooler line method.
Smdh, this is not a flush job..This customer paid for a trans service with a filter change. Im leaving the pan off to gravity bleed as much of the old fluid out as possible. And IMO, the filter more important than the fluid being changed. This fluid can take a beating and not break down but that filter can get restricted from internal wear/debri and cause a major break down.
@@OnlineMechanicTips your way is the correct way. Filters plug and crack. If you find a broken snap ring on the magnet you can save your customer a Lotta cash avoiding a catastrophic failure. Loosen the valve body bolts if you want to get even more out of the convertor. A flush machine will not allow you to get everything out like people think.
@@OnlineMechanicTips This right here. I do a 3x drain and fill with a filter change on the first run. After that I just drain and fill every 30k. Thanks for the video brother. Your one about plugging intake holes in the heads with the snapped off HF pry bar was a pucker moment I’ve lived through too 😅
@@OnlineMechanicTips You can remove the filter entirely and the fluid does the entire job. Remove the fluid And rely on the ‘more important filter’ I’ll hold on
That's what I need to do to my '89 Chevy Caprice. It needs its trans fluid and filter change. What I would do is fill the transmission fluid up, run it, shut the engine off. Disconnect the trans return line from the radiator, connect it to a long rubber hose. Put the end of it into a big bucket, plastic container, etc. Start the car, with the hose in the bucket. As the car is running, watch the trans fluid change from a dark brownish color to a bright red. I saw this done on RU-vid.
Disconnect the coolant line from the radiator and let it pump through the filter and torque converter. Once the fluid starts to sputter add new fluid until your trans has clear read fluid. Your toque converter holds half your trans fluid.
Wrong, got close to 8 or 9.. This was a trans service job. I would of pulled out the flush machine had she bought a flush.. If you didn't change the filter, you did the car a dis service imo.
Drill a 1/8 the inch hole in the torque converter right where the 2 halves are welded together ,only drill thru one layer of the converter shell make sure the hole is at the bottom let it drain ,then next morning, clean the hole and put a nice spot weld to close it back up , now you just got about 95 plus percent of the trans fluid out of the transmission
If a transmission has more than 100K on it never ever do a transmission flush. If you do then you have a 90% chance of the transmission failing. This transmission might still be saved by just a new filter and fluid. This guy is doing it correctly. Good job.
I like your videos! I learn a lot from them. I do have a question for you though, we have an old big v8 van and we need to really flush the coolant system, what would you say the best way to go about it would be? We took it to a local shop and now it runs 10xs worse, it's not even being driven bc of what they did or didn't do. So me and my son will do it ourselves! With your help hopefully! Thanks
Torque converter is still full of old dirty fluid. You should drain it, Fill it and drive it around the block and drain and fill and repeat until the fluid is clean
Iv seen guys pull the cooler lines off put the return line in a bucket of clean fluid and drop the sending line in an empty bucket. Run the engine and let it cycle that fluid through. Not sure of thats a good idea or not but iv seen it done
when I do my engine oil change, I let it drip for 24hrs. It gets an additional 150 to 200ml of dirty oil out of the system. That is about 6oz of dirty oil that would normally remain in the system without the overnight drip.
Of your leaving it like this overnight and outside is your work area don’t forget to just put the pan back up with a few bolts after you empty it. Next day you get to see how much more actually came out too. And no dirt got in there
Should of seen this Trans I was working on, lts and a different dealer did the rnr of the Trans. It had soo much metal in it the globs felt like clay. Almost looked like the silver paint they use to coat the Trans. The worst tans iv seen with less than 500 mile on it lmao soooo much metal.
In addition, after the fluid has gravity drained overnight, i would pour a quart of NEW fluid in and let it drain for a couple of hours. I do this whenever I change motor oil, can't ever get things too clean!
I don't know how it is now but in the past i know a few jobs made things worse or caused problems with a flush. For me no flush just a drain and change
Waste a few quarts of cheaper, but for the application store brand fluid before service. Suck two or three out with a cheap harbor freight evacuator the add back. Do it before service with filter and it comes out much more clean in the end.
I just use the pump disconnect the high pressure line start the vehicle pump the transmission down till the line spits then shut it off your system is the cleanest it will ever be without fully dismantling it, some vehicles will require you to put transmission in neutral to engage the pump/ ie dodge but if you do this when cold and only engage the neutral part of transmission it won't damage the transmission done this on so many vehicles I can't count, and never had a return for transmission issues
Well, I’ve been in automotive for a long time. “In most cases “ servicing your transmission AT LEAST every 15 to 30,000 miles DEPENDING on driving conditions it most important. Including “lifetime fluid “(check out Scotty Kilmer on that fluid) . As far as flushing versus draining and refilling it depends on the history and type of transmission as well as if there are any symptoms. That being said, when a transmission flush is done fully and CORRECTLY with no prior symptoms with factory or better(I prefer better) fluid with a good friction modifier not a transmission fixer( especially with no prior symptoms) a transmission fluid flush is awesome!!! If the transmission is slipping some prior to service, well, you either have a problem that will get worse anyway or a fluid breakdown that a real , properly done flush will fix. If you do not flush the transmission either with slippage or overdue a drain and fill can actually damage it!! You are mixing about half old fluid (in most cases) with nice new fluid with a lot of detergents in it. The new fluid cleans the transmission insides, the old fluid weakens the new stuff and all the gunk gets dumped into your filters and you end up with fluid starvation!! So either drain and fill BEFORE it gets bad or PROPERLY FLUSH IT. If you have a problem after a correct service you would have had a problem anyway. But good luck on finding anyone that can do a proper flush!!!!! So drain and fill every 15,000 to 30,000 !!!! My personal experience with a transmission slipping on a 1994 Nissan Quest minivan is I tried flushing it. I used a BG flush machine, BG pre cleaner and afterwards BG AT conditioner. The car was driven some with the pre cleaner( it was slipping on hills) and during the flush it was raised up and the wheels were spinning. It fixed the slippage and was good up to the day I sold it 3, yes, THREE YEARS LATER!!! As I stated it depends. So take care of your expensive overpriced car!!!
Change the filter, refill the pan, pull the line off at the radiator and put a rubber hose into a bucket. Start the engine and dump fluid down the fill tube until the fluid runs out clean.
@Manni- so wrong , a flush is a transfer of fluid wish old one comes aout like the guy up to stated ,this is a drain a fill you should go to a real shop 👌
You're getting maybe a third, half at the most, of the fluid out. Leaving it overnight makes it a little less messy but only gets a couple more ounces.
What ever more I get out by letting it drain over night is a bonus. Im aware Im not going to get it all out nor am I trying to. This is simply a transmission service job sold with the intensions of getting as much out as possible, This is not flush job.
If you take the time and inquire what takes place with a flush most places do not change the filter and use the same machine for flushes (cross fluid contamination). That is like taking a bath after everyone else has and putting your crusty undies back on and then claiming "I'm clean"!!!
If you drain it while it’s hot you’ll drain the torque converter too at least that’s how the Buick was 12 quarts later I found out the trans has a thermostat too
I had a transmission shop tell me that years ago while having the transmission rebuilt on my dodge ram. He said that many of the vehicles that come into his shop are within 500 miles after being flushed. He recommended that if the transmission hadn't been regularly flushed out that you only do a fluid change because when you flush a transmission that hasn't been regularly maintained it can knock a lot of the built-up gunk loose that can clog filters and lines that will lead to complete failure. That being said, flushing is the best option as long as it's done fairly often on a regular basis.
@@awdeveau HI. Just wanted to chime in real quick. I have heard that also. But I have worked in a dealerships for over 30 years and used BG flush machines for alot of those years. Now im not saying that the theory is wrong because I have actually witnessed it happening once. (not to me) Although, one time out of hundreds, the odds aren't good for that story. Anyways, if it was a fear, couldn't you have the customer sign a waiver of some type stating that it could ruin the trans and they still want to move forward with the flush?
@@midnightrider1854 the "reverse flush" that some shops sell will kill them damn near every time. That said, I just simply change the fluid and filter (gets 6-7 quarts out of a 14 quart system) every 25k when the manufacturer calls for 50k changes. Fluid is expensive, but not that expensive.
@@leftyeh6495 I suppose that depends on how bad the trans fluid is, and if the services have been kept up. But I have done a lot of filter and drains as well. I just always preferred the method of completely removing the fluid.
@@Leothelion357 Its a trans service. A fluid exchange is when you only changing the fluid, which is point less. And btw saying "as close to a flush as possible" is not the same as saying its a flush. I dont do trans flush jobs. But since this is RU-vid, you welcome to make a video and show the public how you role on your channel, thats what I did over here on my channel.
After reading a lot of these comments, I’d like to Thank Ya’ll for keeping me in business the last 48 years (I fix Cars/Transmissions aka Mechanic) some of the things ya’ll “say” you do will actually damage a Transmission. By the way keep on doing only partial oil changes on your Transmissions and while you’re at it why don’t ya’ll just do partial oil changes on your engines too, us Mechanics need the business. What a lot of people call a “Transmission Flush is actually a “Fluid Exchange w/Filter” and requires the proper Equipment/Machine to ensure no Damage is done to the Transmission. Keep on going folks we want your Money….. er’ Business I mean.😊
This is the only way to go. Filters crack, screens plug, debris collects on the magnet. I have saved people from catastrophic failures using this method.
I did this on my car recently and found a leak, now my transmission is on a table and im waiting for parts..... womp womp. Might as well do the main seal and oil pan gasket because on this wierd 4x4 you have to take the trans out to do it.......
That's a drain and fill with a new filter. You can run clean fluid into the cooler return line and drain the old fluid into a drain pan the transmission pump will suck in the new and pump out the old. You can flush without a machine.
As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS mechanic I've been questioned many times on that subject. First thing is out sight out mind; just like the owners manual!!! ( unread ) Changing or flushing ever thirty or fifty thousand miles is OK. But if you have not done the recommended maintenance and now there seems to be a problem ( eighty/hundred thousand miles ) changing or flushing will probably exacerbate the PROBLEM!!!!
If you’re afraid of losing the precious gunk inside the transmission, you can always drain and fill without lowering the pan, and better fluid quality will make transmission work better
Drain the converter & blow out the cooling lines, pull out the speedometer to drain the tail pull out the vacuum module then you get it all. Go the little extra & do the job right.
B/c of how risky it can be? Considering that most people forget about it or ignore it till their car is at like 70,000+ MI, or are you saying even if they did it early like at 30,000 a flush can be risky?
@@selwyn13 I guess my thought process based on the early failures of our 62TE. As this t/conv age and break down, all the clutch debri ends up in pan an clogs filter. A flush job compounds on that because the filter not changed. I guess you can say I'm big on getting that filter out. So yes, its risky from that stand point. I never sell flush jobs. A filter changed even if only removing 5 of the 12 quarts in the trans better than packing debri into a filter during a flush job. That could easily shorten the pumps life and ruin trans.
Main issue will be the garbage left over in the trans cooler and trans cooler lines(if applicable). I like to reverse flush the cooler along with lines after disconnecting lines from trans.
so stick a hose in the valve body and in a 1 gallon jug of transmission fluid and the fliud goes through the converter first then the cooler then into the pan
Do you have a preferred method of cleaning off the old silicone from the pan and bottom of the transmission? I see a lot of Chryslers with ALOT of silicone and or cooked on gaskets ..
How about when your van goes in for a trans service. You get it back and the pan did not seal (leak). Brand new fluid twice! That’s a good service for a transmission.
@@Pogohontas. I drove it around town and then home overnight. Discovered the leak. Call the tech, he had me back in. Dropped the oil pan and all the trans fluid. Re sealed the pan, added new fluid.
42RLE trans there. Pull the valve body screws loose and brake the seal between the valve body and case. That will allow the converter to drain about half way out. Otherwise it will remain full. Don't worry about the clutch feed seal above the valve body, its rubber and be fine when you re-rorque the valve body. Better use atf+4 so you don't get TCC lockup shudder. Remember your new filter o ring!
