Great video and thanks for the sharing. I noticed that the LEDs are actually been isolated by those plastic grids I guess that's why there's no light "leaking" and interference when multiples LEDs are lit. This is a good example of "attention to details" and I really appreciated that. Have been searching for a charger for my car and your videos are really helpful. Thank you so much and keep up the good work👍
Great device, fully charged 3 batteries I had on my garage shelf for some time. Hit repair mode then charge and they all fully charged. Now I leave it connected to my Challenger which sits in the garage from Fall till Spring. Keeps the battery at 100%.
I just purchased the Genius 5 based on your videos. Now that I am working from home, the car sits in the garage for long periods. I look forward to having the battery fully charged when I need to drive somewhere. Thanks very much!
Thoroughly enjoyed watching the Noko Genius 5 videos, even the ones with fancy graphs and stuff (way above my head, but got the general gist). I'm not expecting any miracles at all, but I have a pile of car batteries in various states of health, and shall spend many weeks (months?) seeing if my new 5 can resurrect any of them. It arrived this morning and is working on battery number 1 as we speak. Thank you so much for the videos - helped me opt for the Noco over the CTek in the end.
Hi Clayton. Thanks for the comment. If a modern car starter battery has been allowed to languish with the terminal voltage below 11 volts for any length of time then it is likely beyond saving. In any case good luck with them and let us know how you get on. Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed the Genius 2 and 5 teardowns. I cut the output wires and spliced in some longer leads. Never thought about where the temperature sensor was. Glad to see that the sensor is at the Unit housing which I suspected since the leads were 2 conductor.
Yes, that is all that it is - clear lacquer. Mages a big difference in damp conditions. We used to dip the Marine Radar boards to prevent corrosion. Used to wick up the edge connectors and cause havoc with the motherboard connections.
The noco Genuis 5 is pretty good, definitely revived my wife motorcycle battery. It gets hot on larger battery's and slows down a bunch but over time is still does a good job. And by larger battery's I mean I have a pair of 31-MHD 950 CCA's that we replaced for poor performance from a dump truck middle of 2019(my dads company i swapped out some cores)they've sat on my concrete floor in yy garage till I hooked em up last few nights. Results seem promising went from 10.7v to 12.8 unhooked, then 24 hours later battery was at 12.3v I need to run it through a full repair cycle(I botched one bc I had to leave an hour in)
Many Major companies have moved from China. Nearly all western branded power tools are made there and the Vietnam China border is blocked with people trying to get to Vietnam to get work. Samsung has vacated too the city they left is now a ghost town... no need to ask why..
Another great video - Thanks. A great shame that the main case isn't sealed properly given the trouble they went to elsewhere with o rings on screw holes, clamps on cable glands and rubber buffer for the button. Perhaps the silicone was expected to go into the rim when the case is closed? They put a fair bit in and its obviously extruded when the case is assembled. I wouldn't wonder that when enough was used in production it came out the sides and the volume was reduced to save cleaning up. It that was the sealing 'mechanism' it wasn't really in line with the engineering elsewhere. I have expected a ring seal really. My early Ctek had a flat gasket but it was crimped in one place so probably didn't work 100% - not that I left it exposed to the elements. It was in a tent garage rather than indoors and eventually blew up. Thanks again for the repair. I suppose it would be easy enough for an owner to open the case on their Noco and seal it back together if the were thinking of using it outside. Obviously that would invalidate the guarantee if it failed though 😡
Pleased you found it useful. This one leaked at the seal between the upper and lower housings. On the NOCO 2 it had a bad leak around the label as it hadn't been fully pressed down at the factory. If you have no surveillance and quality sample testing at the factory then faults like this will almost always creep in. The early CTEKS had a peripheral seal and now use ultrasonic welding. Even car manufacturers have problems sealing light modules reliably. I'll do a video that puts the quality of the seal into context.
I just purchased the NOCO GENIUSPRO25, 25-Amp it's expensive but got it with offers from eBay, Recommend by you , Lol very impressed with the build quality extremely long leads, about 4m and doesn't get hot at all cool running , will be selling the ctek 25pro, cheers mate,
I would like to see one of those. I haven't seen a faulty NOCO yet or been asked to fixed one so fingers crossed!! You are welcome thanks for watching. Remember to like and subscribe please.
The CTEK might work OK when it works but enjoy it whilst you can. The hardware was designed by Schoolboys. The marketing however is brilliant. Haven't see a faulty NOCO yet.. still waiting... Anyone?
Nice reviews! (almost) watched all. last year i bought a NOCO Genius 5, now I see it was a safe choise! thank you. Before putting the order I googled CTEK and saw the disaster internal design, I don't think will ever buy a CTEK. I am thinking about the leakage, could it be: when charger is working it heats the internal air, creats some presure so some amount of air is presured out first, then when the charger cools down, the internal presure goes lower then sucks the water in. just a guess :)
Thanks. yes all products that aren't hermetically sealed breathe due to changes in barometric pressure and temperature. If the dew point is reached at any point then condensation will occur inside the unit. None of the units I have tested are watertight but Noco have attempted to mitigate the risk by using conformal coating. Leave a CTEK sheltered but in otherwise outside conditions then it fails due to moisture ingress.
That was very interesting. The NOCO Genius 5 does look much more substantial inside than the CTEK MX 5.0. I’s be interested in a side-by-side comparison of the NOCO and the CTEK.
Thanks. I hope that all the info is there on the channel - just no side-by-side comparison. I see if I can find the time. I seem to have almost disappeared down a charger rabbit hole.... I prefer top present the info and let the viewer decide. i can say that the premium Smart battery chargers are way overpriced.
@@razenby They have come up in price during the pandemic, because many people bought them to prevent their car battery from dying. I usually define alerts to when the price is down - but I admit they are still very expensive. The Bosch ones are the only ones which are somewhat fairly priced.
@@razenby I have the Bosch C3 (ASIN : B007K5OLDU, and Bosch PN: 0 189 999 03M). It supports both 6V and 12V. They have the cheaper Bosch C1 (motorcycles 12V), and the more expensive Bosch C7 (12V and 24V). I track prices with Keepa.
At 21:37, reflects the heat back to the components as well, mostly it was the components on the battery monitor board in laptops getting too much heat if the batteries were farther away from any pcb is better
Hello, love the videos really helped me understand things. Can any of these chargers be hooked up permanently in a caravan and charge even when the caravan is drawing from the leisure battery? Thanks.
They can, but some don't revert to full bulk charge mode to give full power to support the load. You can leave the charger permanently connected as a maintenance charger, Also these chargers are not designed for prolonged loads because they get too hot. As an alternative, Meanwell 15A 12V lead acid chargers are widely used in this application. You can just connect this to your leisure battery and leave the charger plugged in. Much better circuit design, efficiency (runs cool) and reliability.
I've a knackered Genius 5 that last night decided not to turn on. No LEDs displaying. Checked the fuse on the plug and it's fine. More than welcome to try and fix for a video if you want. Feel free to reach out.
I have a couple in need of repair here already. If I took yours on too it on it might be while before I have time to look at it. The design project diary is pretty full.
Hello, great video... i have to admit i did not watch it from beginning to end but is there something I can do to prevent water from getting in? can I put some silicone sealant ? where do you suppose the leak came from so I can seal that part.
It is the around the front label label and along the split line between the top and bottom case. 3M external weatherproof tape around the split line should stop it.. Remember to like and subscribe. Thanks.
I suspect the 'silicone' goop you found between the under board heatsink and case floor is to improve thermal conductivity from the heatsink to the case (rather than provide waterproofing). The strengthening ribs on the inside of the case would otherwise cause a considerable insulating air layer between the flap /extension of heatsink and the case. Maybe you could test the thermal conductivity of the 'goop' to see if it conducts heat well?
I have the Noco 10, unfortunately it failed on me this past week. But I can't fault Noco, as after contacting there help department they're sending out a new replacement and all they required was a photo of mine with the leads cut off.
Interesting. The 10 Amp range has some problems. I would be interested to see the old one to have a look at it if you still have it. Are you in the UK?
@@razenby What problems do the 10A have? I've been using a NOCO Genuis10 most of the winter on 2 vehicles here and my moms car without issues so far...
Do you know what the ntc value should be on the charging leads, my leads got damaged on a noco 10 and now the charging is unstable when I try 100k, 50k and 10k thermistors , thanks
Thank you for your videos! I've been watching them for the last few hours (!). You've mentioned in comments sections elsewhere that you might compare the NOCO2 and the NOCO5 in a future video, but would you expect, in theory, an advantage in bulk phase charging at 2A versus 5A? I haven't heard you address it in passing, so I assume it's not something you're concerned about in terms of improved battery charging or affecting the lifespan of the battery. Is it therefore reasonable to assume that the NOCO5, functioning as designed, is a better option because of its speed of charging, or is the NOCO2 the better choice because it is slower, assuming the charger is functioning as designed?
Thanks. The manufacturers of Small/medium car batteries recommend a charge current of 3 amps. Higher currents on low/flat batteries (not over discharged) can cause the exposed areas of the plates to be eroded. Slow is better but faster and slight overcharge might rejuvenate a tired battery, however you wouldn't give a healthy patient drugs with bad side effects just in case they might get sick... These considerations might be knocked into a cocked hat by the car charging system. I believe that as the battery starts t oget a bit tired the car itself accelerates it's demise especially if it isn't driven far enough or often enough to deliver the full float charge. That is when a frequent safe charge pays off.
@@razenby I have a hybrid Toyota. The AGM battery often last 7-8 years if we drive the car regularly. However, many of us parked the car too long from COVID and the 12V battery often drained too far and died. You mentioned that irreversible damage happened when the open voltage is below 11.8V. My Yuasa AGM 35Ah battery gives 12.3-12.4 V when the car is off and 11.7 when the IGN is on. With all loads on AC blower, headlights, it goes to 10.9V and I still can start the car. It is 6 y old battery. I am afraid if I do harm than good by charge it with NOCO1, the cheapest 1A charger. Are they all using the same chip to regulate the voltage?
@@rondhole 11.7 when ignition is on is not a good sign. If you have auto stop start - if so is it working? Most cards have battery aging monitoring software. I presume the terminals are clean and tight? The voltages I referenced are the no load terminal voltages measured a minimum of 1 hour after any use at 20 degrees. A beefier charger (3 or 5A) for an AGM battery is probably best. AGM starting batteries can take (need) a higher charge current up to a higher terminal voltage that ordinary VRLA. You might need the higher current at near to the charge termination voltage to give you the best chance of convert excess sulphate build on the plates. First see If the battery responds to a good standard charge which includes the absorption/float stage. If not then you might want to try an overcharge repair mode but don't expect too much. It can help improve a slightly tired one but wont restore one near the end of its life.
Thanks, hybrid car is powered and charged the 12V by the HV 240V battery with DCtoDC converter when the car is On. So, the 12V job just power the computer on and it rest again until the car is off and On again. What I don't understand, it stop at only about 12.5V with AldiXS charger and cannot go higher even after 10 hours from 12V.
Help, after 2 years of use the right side of my Genius 2 continually annunciates over voltage regardless of battery type. I think it has failed. Good video. Thanks.
@Magic Smoke I bit the bullet and ordered the genius 5 for 70€ last night but I'm getting buyer regret feeling. Should I just cancel the order and just buy a new battery because it has 5 years already? Yesterday I measured 12.1 after 3 days with the car sitting. What do you think? Thanks.
There is no magic bullet for an aged battery - Snake Oil salesmen gave moved onto Battery Charger Sales. You only need a short battery terminal voltage excursion below 11.5 volts to seriously reduce AH capacity. I have little doubt that a regular maintenance charge with full float/absorption will increase the life of the battery. Especially n modern cars that are infrequently used or used only for short journeys. However when the damage is done modern VRLA batteries do not respond well to so called 'repair' therapy. Being stranded with a flat battery is no fun so personally I would invest in a lithium starter pack or a new battery. However a quality charger will prolong the life of your car battery if you have the discipline to use it.
Nice work with the videos of the noco's! Ive got the genius 2 genius 5 and the genius 10 and love them. Notice yours are made in china newer ones like mine are made in Vietnam now i wonder if theres any differences? Also they have a pro25 and a pro50 charger just a little (lot)more $$$ wonder how they stack up? Keep it up!
Thanks. It would be interesting to know if units made in Vietnam differ. You can be sure that key people from the Chinese factory were transferred with the production line.
@@razenby Yes they prob nabbed a few to help start up production. Hopefully you get that genius10 that other poster offered you its interesting to see whats all in these. Ever since i was a kid i loved to tear things down and see how stuff worked tho mom didnt like her stuff not working afterwards but i was only 6, i did my best. Lol
All my New ones says the same. Made in Vietnam or Malaysia ...They seem to have a better quality control...I think companies are pulling out of China.. As the Chinese Communist are getting more Belligerent towards other countries.... NVM the Covid out break that has ruin economies and production...
Hey magic, my battery is now 5 years old and if the car stays sit for a couple of days, it usually gives what I consider a slowish crank and sometimes if I don't drive the car for 5 days or more the crank is even weaker like gives a very slow crank like it's dying then wakes up. I was thinking of changing the battery but someone recommended me charging the battery instead. The battery is a varta blue 60ah 540a, I was going to buy a ctek but since I saw your videos I decided to lean towards the noco but I'm not sure which one is better for me, the genius 2 or 5, there's a 10€ difference right now. Or should I just save that money towards a new batttery ? Thanks.
Hello, it may respond slightly to a reconditioning charge but at some point soon it will let you down. Unless you have a pare battery in the boot you might get stranded somewhere. You could hook it up to a traditional charger for a few days. A full float charge migh improve it a bit but once a modern VRLA (Valve regulated) starting battery starts to go there is very little that you can do,
there is some talk that the CTEK chargers use a IUoU protocol, and this is better than the system used by NOCO, could you shed some light on this? and does it make the ctek better overall? cheers
Mostly they all do but the voltages aren't quite right on the units I have tested. Note that the car alternator does not follow this designation. You will notice that the CTEK has a whole bunch of extra lights and 'smart' features. The long and the short of it is that a starting battery in good condition is easy to charge and using quite resilient to short periods of mild overcharging. However a bad battery will always be bad and, using the 'miracle functions' you may be able to squeeze and extra amp hour or two into it but you will still be buying a new battery very soon.
HIya! Well Ive watched the other 5 videos, and Ive no idea what you were talking about 😅… and it was still fascinating ❤ You’ve just persuaded me to not buy the NOCO 5 (which I wanted for the regen feature). I think I’ll just get an AA normal 1.5 amp charger (saw your cheap charger vids, so maybe the brand is best!). Thanks for an actual review of its performance. Really enjoyed the in-depth analysis of things I didnt understand, but made its point!
Thanks for the video. I had a CTEK MXS 5.0, bought in 2013 and which failed just some days ago (June 2023), so I got about 10 years from it. I have bought another CTEK MXS 5.0 unit (newer model). The reason is that, compared to the NOCO Genius 5, the CTEK has the special 0.8A mode, which I use for my motorcycle battery, and the NOCO has no provision for that and, even if it may charge an small battery, doing it at 5A is definitely not good nor follows the manufacturers specifications. A pity on an otherwise good product
I bought one unit a year ago and another one 6 months ago. I use them on my SUV and motorcycle. Both units conk on me last month. It won’t switch ON. What’s seems the problem ? It’s used on covered garage. What part should be repaired or replaced ? Many thanks in advance . . . .
Impossible to say. probably have been blown up by a mains transient or surge. I've never seen a failed NOCO before. They are quite reliable. Get e Brennenstuhl surge arrestor and plug it in the ring main / socket in you garage before you deploy more chargers. Can't you get them replaced by NOCO?
Great video thanks. I wonder why lots of chargers like Noco are completely sealed and have no fans or at least some big vents plus bigger thicker heatsinks. My guess is very few people truly needs a water or moist resistant charger. Heat is enemy of fine electronics. The moment a circuit gets hot then performance is compromised. These are smart chargers that needs to take decisions based on measurements. I dislike this tendency of chargers completely sealed and electronics crammed inside. Maybe they want them to fail the sooner the better so we buy another one. I measured temp on a Noco 5 charger putting temp sensor right on one screw then it measured 67 Celsius.... Imagine the temperatures inside the crammed space.
Dew point condensation is the problem. Vents help cool the internals but also let the moist air in. Temperature cycling of any dust-proof enclosure causes it to breath. If it breathes in moist air and then you will get condensation when the temperature drops to the dew point. The only way to prevent this is to have a hermetically sealed enclosure. Mots manufacturers don't recognise this fact so they fail to conformally coat the electronics with waterproof lacquer.
First one the high temp light came on. Directions say basically unplug it until it’s cooler, but even when cool as soon as you plug it in the temp light came on and no output. Replaced under warranty. The replacement worked for a while but when I noticed it didn’t seem to be working. The power led would blink on and off. If you unplug and plug it back in, it would boot up and the status light might do a couple slow blinks (normal) then it would go back to power led flashing. Amp meter showed 0.02 amp output. Fuse is good, and behaves the same when connected to a different battery. Seems to be cycling in and out of standby mode. Still under warranty, so I paid to mail that one back too. Since they were both sent back, I didn’t attempt to disassemble or diagnose.
I take a look at both of them. Interesting to see what the problem is. They aren't that easy to get into but it may be a simple fix that will help others.
Hello, I was doing a search on how to repair NOCO G7200 charger; however, couldn’t find any. You know RU-vid sometimes does right things and acquainted me to your channel. I enjoyed your expert videos on any area i.e., on making an accessory to fit engine pistons in its bores with new rings, repairing I believe a cappuccino coffee making machine, CTEK charger repair and more. I have a newly purchased CTEK Multi US 7002 and so far, cannot complain about it. Although it is getting quite hot but charges normally and keeping maintenance charge between 14.38v to 12.86v and I’m leaving always connected to my 45Ah, CCA 285 battery for two reasons - not driving much, and added dash cam that drains about 500ma from the battery. Please do not get mad on me: I know you are not a CTEK fan. I also ordered NOCO G10 and it coming in two days. I need your help if you find time for me regarding G7200 version 1. Purchased in 2012, used about 50 times, never left connected to the battery indefinitely as their manual claims. So, I would never know if it was a defective charger or happened afterwards. I learned about it lately for above mentioned reasons. That is why I purchased these new chargers. And finally, this is what is going on with G7200 - leaving connected to the battery for about 12 - 17 hrs. G7200 goes on stand-by mode. I tried many times but it keeps doing the same. I wiggled the wires when it was working normally - everything was normal. And one more thing, this charger on maintenance mode keeps the voltage between 14.23 - 12.53v never charges 14.4v to 12.8 as their manual claimed. In G10 manual even there is no talk about maintenance charge voltage range. I believe they cannot keep their word on this issue. Can you assist me with this issue on G7200? Many thanks in advance. Yervand Gabrielyan
CTEK don't tolerate Damp or main transients well. For the first never leave it plugged in where is can cross teh dew point. The second depends on the quality of your mains supply. If in doubt the use a protected extension lead. I cant say what is wrong with the G72000. Does it go into standby when the charge is complete,
@@razenby Thank you for your reply. No. At first G7200 works normally - LED's for 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% lit as they should. In maintenance mode 4 LED's Lit when checking with Fluke 179 I am measuring between 14.23v - 12.53v and this continuous as I mentioned about 12 - 17hrs. But instead of remaining forever in maintenance mode for unknown reason G7200 goes on stand-by mode. When I am checking back after above mentioned hours and see it is already on stand-by mode I am switching back to 12v normal charging mode and the process repeats.
#MagicSmoke, I have 2 questions. 1. I have battery 40 Ah 12v. I know that Noco Genius 2 is perfect for charging that battery, but that charger has no repair function. I haven't watched all you videos, but what is your opinion, is it safe to charge that battery with Noco Genius 5? How smart is that charger, is it possible to reduce amperes, so not to damage that small battery with high amperes? 2. Is there any issue, if I try to charge bigger battery than 40 Ah, with Noco Genius 2? The time for charging will increase, but what about the software obstruction to charge such battery?
Over current during bulk charge phase is not good for a battery on a repeated basis. You can check the manufacturer's data for your battery re the recommended charge current. However if the battery is getting tired a limited overcurrent may help reduce the sulphate on the plates. A small lower current battery charger will charge almost any car battery it will just take longer to complete.
Very much enjoy your videos. I was wondering if your chargers were warm or hot before you started the water ingress test? Perhaps the industry standard / factory tests permit (read 'cheat'), the internals to be chilled / cold-soaked to temperatures well below ambient air / water temp before testing ? (thus air would be escaping as the air inside was warming up while being sprayed). I suppose a possible reason for keeping the case very small and cramped, is that a bigger case would mean considerably more air volume inside and thus more water vapor / liquid water would be sucked in as the air inside contracted each time it cools.
Room /garden temperature. If you warm them up then it can make ingress more likely. However they leak like a sieve. The CTEK blew up immediately I turned it on. The NOCO worked OK because it has silicone and a conformal coating on the electronics and a sealed tact switch. The CTEK does not.
I have kind of done that but it is long winded. I decided to present the evidence and let you decide. Since you are asking, to summarize: CTEK: If you want a battery charge that isn't very reliable and cheaply made, but can be effective with slightly sulphated wet lead acid batteries (not modern VRLA Starting batteries) , then buy a CTEK. Keep it dry and away from dew point crossing conditions. Don't leave it plugged in for long periods because mains transients will end it. NOCO: If you want a much better quality of design and manufacture, and a charger that is good in damp conditions, and you want to charge and to support for long periods then the NOCO is a better choice.. The Noco has higher accuracy voltage sensing and temperature compensation.
@@razenby I've been using a CTEK for years on my bikes, and it have been working fine. Now i've looked into getting a booster and a charger. NOCO does have both, so i can use the same quick connector. Ctek comfort indicator is a thing i will miss, easy to mount in a fixed location.
hi wonder if you can help me i have the noco genius 5 but no power to my garage i was thinking of buying a Jackery Explorer 500 to run the noco as a maintenance charger for a motorbike how long roughly would the jackery last between charges thanks
The Explorer 500 wouldn't support the NOCO for long. Maybe a week. The Explorer batteries would quickly deteriorate if you discharge them fully. You would be better off putting a small solar panel on the shed to provide top up. A controller would be required. An even better plan would be to simply charge the battery every 3 or 4 months. A good battery left alone with no discharge current will look after itself and just need a charge quarterly. Is it possible to run a mains cable to you garage? Probably cheaper than the explorer and will last for ever?
Cant say,. My experience of products manufactured in Vietnam has been positive so far. My Chinese contacts tole me that mos of the key technical staff relocate along with the production line.
Hello Magic Smoke, I purchased a new AGM 12v Interstate battery: CCA 410, Ah 41, RC 75min. I cleaned the posts with wire brush and started charging the new battery before connecting to my 08 Prius. Before charging I tested the new battery with Ancel BA-201 - SOH -100%, SOC - 88%, CCA - 423A, STD - 410A, R - 5.88-ohm, VOLTAGE - 12.53V, GOOD BATTERY. I connected my NOCO G10 charger and started charging using AGM 12v mode. It took 16 to 17 hrs. to fully charge the new battery to 14.91v. then, I discharged the battery to 13.08v and charged it with the same charger and this time it took 7.5 hrs. to fully charge to 14.91v. NOCO G10 manual says for 40 Ah battery charge time is 3 hrs. What do you think the charge times that I described above is normal or there is something wrong with my brand new G10 charger? Right now, I connected 30ma load to drain the battery about to 13.08v and charge with CTEK US 7002 using the same modes - AGM, 12v to compare the charge times. Can you advise please? Update: today CTEK finished the charge. It took 1:20 to charge from 12.9v to 14.78v. Happy Easter
Hmm, I take the charging stats and almost everything in the manual with a pinch of salt. The fact that it is AGM then it will tolerate a higher current during the last stages of float or absorption charge. To fully charge a battery to max available capacity (without denigrating the plates) you need to carry out this low-current low-speed final stage float charge, This is unlikely not be completed within in 3 hours. If this is a car starting battery then don't ever drain it as they are designed to be drained. In normal operation is will be a quick blast on the starter and then off you go. every time you take it below 11.5 volts a degree of irreversible damage will be done.
@@razenby Thank you for your reply, regarding draining the battery - I made self made resistor 3 LED s connected in serial with a 100K Potentiometer to drain only 30Ma current imitating normally operating car's parasitic drain. I drained the battery with this to 12.9v. This is not a car starting battery it is for 08 Prius. Today I talked to NOCO regarding G10 and asked them to replace the unit and send the new G10 with 30-day money-back guarantee because, as an end user, I considered it as a failed unit or refund. NOCO customer service chose to refund the money. So I will buy another CTEK (56-353) MULTI US 7002 12-Volt Battery Charger. I took a couple videos what it was doing and how G10 was charging and if you want just out of curiosity look at them. And please tell me what do you think after watching these videos. Here are the links: drive.google.com/file/d/13arVJ6eneaiT-wyv5aToE19UI1WMk7s9/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1Ts6vGstCnj5ASb3jB5QAK98A8xYwRwnt/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1emV5zy8J5MEupfncV3bWdwEDJrR_l_uj/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/19oSRKxlzVjn8qXmdNNE_CvwMHPW3_gZm/view?usp=sharing thanks again
to be honest i really can't understand this engineer point of view, you just convinced me with the other videos to let go of Ctek and go with the noco but i'm still not sure which noco to get. I ride motorcycles but i have also a car, i heard the lower amps are for motorcycle but i dont want to buy 2 of them in different amps. is the noco 5 ideal for motorcycles too?
The Genius 2 is good for cars and motorcycles. The 2 will charge a larger battery more slowly (it will take longer). The battery manufacturer's data for many 70Ah car-starting VRLA )Valve-Regulated-Lead-Acid) batteries recommend a charge current of 3 amps. If you aren't in a hurry then 2 is a good buy. We have an infrequently driven V8 Jaguar with alarms and keyless entry and I use the version 2 Noco to support the battery 24/7. The battery is good but the car discharges it if not driven for several weeks, It also charges my Range rover just fine too. If you will be in a hurry then buy the 5.
@@razenby What would be the diffrences between the 2 and the 1? I just have to say i'm more motorcycle oriented, i own a car but care less about it so i don't mind to trickle charge it slowly since i don't use it as often and in other hand, to charge slowly my motorcycle battery since i care about it more, so slow is the way to go for me but which one, 1 or 2?
There is this one charger from Einhell. It is named as CC BC 15m. It has 16mm2 cables and has some "intelligent" features. It has a beefy transformer inside but yet it is unavailable to start a two liter diesel car with flattened battery. I wonder if you could test the "jumpstart" feature. Not a must thing to do but if you happen ever to get one of these on your hands? Maybe not next week nor next month but just some day in future xd
This looks to be an expensive charger and an incompetent jump starter. 100A for 5 seconds isn't enough to start a car with a flat battery. That total capacity is barely 1Ah so won't do much in the real world I'm afraid.
@@markdauncey927 Ye well I own this thing, just because how it looks, aint gonna tell the reason for why I bought for the looks. Once I got a 1.4 gas car running with this but 2.0 diesel was too much, even though this diesel car had a new battery and the gas car had atleast one cell totally dead. I guess I own totally overpriced junk. Doesnt matter if it can charge fast a big battery, I can do it with my smaller 12a einhell that is actually portable.
Hi, nice video. Are you familiar with the bosch c3? Is it a good alternative? I need to purchase a charger to charge a 65ah efb start/stop battery. Noco genius2 or genius5 are better? Thank you for the attention
I have thought about getting one. Do you know if the case is screwed or welded together? If it has screws then I will buy one and test it. I don't care for wrecking the housings getting the thing apart.
Hello everyone, I have a question. Do you think it is possible, for example, in noco genius pro 50A to make a smooth current regulation without changing the voltage? This charger has a switch for 10A max, I need for example from 1A to 10A. Is it possible?
They say so. It doesn't state how long it will provide the full 50A without overheating. It just says 12V supply mode for ECU flashing and diagnostic testing. It will throttle back the power output if the charger gets too hot. What have you got that needs a constant 50 @ 12.6V?
@@razenby I need a reliable car battery charger. Now I have a Ctek msx 10 but it broke. I took it apart and saw that the quality does not match the price. In addition, the battery charging algorithm of this device is not capable of 100% charging. I want to have a reliable universal charger for batteries of different capacities. I like the way Noco Genius devices are made, it looks very reliable and of high quality. I do not need 50A, but I think this current adds reliability to the device. Charging acid batteries is recommended 1/10 of the capacity, but if the battery is old, then you can try to restore it. This requires a current of 1/20 of the capacity or even less. For a 12V 60A / h battery, a current of 6A or even 3A is needed to restore the capacity. If I connect in parallel a variable resistor to the + - output of the charger, can I regulate the current, for example, from 1A to 10A? Do you understand me? Sorry for my English. Thanks for your reply.
I have a faulty Genius 5 which you could do a video on diagnostic and repair for me? You certainly seem to know your way around this stuff! Let me know if you want me to send it (assuming UK). A.
I have never seen a faulty Genius 5 - I have been asked to fix literally hundreds of CTEK but no Noco. Sadly I am very busy on a design contact so little free time. If you want, I could have a quick look at it - it may be a quick fix but I dont have time for a deep dive.. email me at support@invebo.com
Thanks for the video! I do have an blown Genius 5, bought defective. After opening, it seems like that the resistor R9, as well the U5 got burned. Additional, one of the opto coupler (everlight EL 1018) seems no longer be working. If you still have the device, could you please read and write me the R9 resistor value as well identify U5 (there is some writing on it, I assuming is a kind of buck/buck-boost IC)? Might help to bring it back to life… THANKS
Sorry I don't see these often and I don;t have one open at the moment. Assuming U9 is the main SMPS switching FET??... Then, Have a look at the datasheet/application note for the PWM chip. The circuit of the power components in the manufacturers data will be very similar to the implementation on the product. You will have to change the PWM chip, the components in the gate drive circuit and check the snubber/flyback diode, the bootstrap supply diode and the current sensing resistor usually in series with the FET source and the AC 0V rail. Good luck.
@@razenby magic! Thanks for sharing your knowledge - ...it is U5 (not U9) - sits right besides the fully burned R9 - however, I will try to understand and process :-) Best regards and thanks again, top!
@@abel4776 I'm sorry to say, no, not fixed. Considered it beyond my capabilities & understanding - despite your very kind help - which makes me feel a bit uncomfortable as I value your time and effort to help me. Have to admit that it eventually ended up in the electro waste bin. Howeve: Thanks a lot for your videos, reply and effort! Regards
Maintenance works Ok on these. About reviving old batteries then don't bother trying. The claims are false. You might be able to get a few more months of life from a working battery using the regen / repair modes but recovering a bad battery is marketing fantasy... It used to work on old style standard wet cell batteries that were built like a brick sh.t house but not modern ones designed for minimum weight, minimum size and a finite life to be about a year longer than the manufacturer's warranty.
Hi great vid, looking to buy the noco genuis 10, instead of the noco 5, any idea on how good the noco genius 10 is compared to the 5?, not trying to put you on the spot, just new to this kind of battery charger.
Higher current chargers are best for large batteries. The manufacturer's recommended charge current is nominally 5 per 100 Ah of capacity. Regular charging from a health but low discharge state with high bulk charge current will shorted the battery life.. However the occasional boost can help condition the battery by eroding the electrodes and undermining light sulphate build up. If you have the occasional need to going fast and need a shorted charge time then buy a bigger charger.. If you just need long term battery support then buy a reliable smart charger with temperature compensation. If you are cycling a battery in leisure situation the refer to the manufacturer's specification for the battery.
@Magic Smoke have ordered the noco genius 10 smart charger for my 12v car battery so no going back now, I did check with two battery suppliers who both said it would be a good match after reaching out to yourself. It was a case of either noco 5 or noco 10 and being occasionally there maybe a need to charge two other larger batteries I went with the noco 10 being I couldn't find anyone saying it would be too powerful for my modest sized 12volt car battery which is mainly where it will be used. So hoping it works out, don't want to buy another one lol.
I read somewhere that it goes full 10A for a few seconds/minutes, then slows down the amperage accordingly down to sub 1A. It won't go full 10A until 100%.
Haha it got stuck between a milling wheel barrow and a the workshop door post when my wheelbarrow with a 300lb milling machine heat in it got out of control. My ramp over the doorway threshold plank broke and I crashed into the the doorway.
My device has broken down. The smd element on the pcb marked U5 has been damaged. I only read CR5 and I still don't know. Can someone identify this item?
You don't need a 10 unless you have a massive battery or you are in a big hurry to get enough power to start your car. The car starting batteries manufacturers specifications state a charge current of 3 to 4 amps. If you have time then the 5 amp charger is probably best.
@@lacike767 I would never buy a CTEK. It is a very expensive piece of cheap hardware with schoolboy electronic design. It has no weather or dew-point condensation protection (no conformal coating on the electronics and it is not sealed. Expect the NOCO to be more reliable and to keep on working. I have repaired many CTEks . there is no longevity in the design.
Hi Magic Smoke, I know it’s a couple of years since you posted this but can you tell me the spec of that fuse on the input side. As it happens mine blew and I can’t read what’s on lt. Thanks.
I can't remember exactly. If the fuse has blown then it is very likely to blow again if replaced. i.e. it is not the primary cause of the failure. I would fit a 3A 250v fuse..
Officially UK mains is 230V +5% to -10%. In reality we often have mains up to 265VAC. Unfortunately many products are designed for 220-230V and just cant hack the higher peak (root 2 x 30V). So yes, a sparrow fart on line can push a weak design way over the edge.
Great video I thought. Ctek was the best chargers in world, 😁, unfortunately have got a ctek mx25 pro, I guess it would be the same kind of design as the mx10, Only use it occasionally but keep it dry, and don't drop it, 🧐, 👀, I have had it nearly 3 years now not cheap, don't think will be buying another ctek, anymore Don't think the naco charges was available when I was looking for one 3-years ago, 🤔
Thanks for the comment. Yes definitely keep it dry and NOT in a location where the dew-point condensation could be triggered. It is advisable to use a transient suppressor (Brennenstuhl) at the extension lead end.
@@razenby thanks I might sell it and get a G26000UK 26A NOCO Smart Charger, I need someone fast changing, once its charge I just disconnected it, 2,3 hour change is great for me...
Most things used to be made in China. Not any more. The important factor is where it was designed and who owns the Factory. Quality will be no problem If the manufactory is owned by the Japanese and Taiwanese, as many are.
Your videos are nice, but way too long. I mean, Ialready spent like hour and half and still didnt find any results which car charger should I buy... Maybe you should try to do some conclusion on the end of the video, tell your opinion about the producs in 2-3sentences Or atlest put few timestams, so viewer can find faster what he is looking for.... Otherwise, great video
Thank you for the comment. I make the videos for those who want to learn the facts and the the detailed performance to allow them to make their own considered decision. If you need someone to to tell you what to think without facts or investigation then there are plenty of 'experts' on RU-vid.
19:44 When charging a car battery everything should be turned off in the car. In modern cars (2000 onwards), you should always close the doors, lock the car, and wait 15 minutes for all the Command Units (Engine, Infotainment, Doors, ABS, etc...) to turn off completely. On some cars, you can let the doors open. In that case, you should wait up to 20 minutes for the entire system to turn off. Only after that off state of every Command Unit and light can you start charging. During the charge cycle, you should not unlock the car, open a door, or even turn on a dome light. If you do so, you can simply trick the charger in the reading of the battery voltage (making the charging process not linear), or even fry your battery. On the case mentioned, the charger fried itself - which is better than having a fired battery (that we are trying to save), or worse fry a Command Unit. I usually park my car, lock it, and go get the charger. During this time, all Command Units can turn off completely. Afterwards, I leave the battery charging over night; when I know I will not be needing it. This gives the charger the opportunity to do its thing without me interfering.
The chargers aren't that that that they can be upset by the door lock operating during the charge process. However they will complete their charger work properly if the there is a background current drain by the vehicle which is within the same order of magnitude of normal battery self discharge current. This includes virtually every vehicle with and alarm. Central locking receivers are usually OK.
@@razenby I understand your point, and even agree if you are talking about only the locking process. But, many cars turn on several lights. Examples: 2003 Mercedes-Benz C-Class turns on 50W of lights (3 dome lights in the front, 2 in the back, and 4 on all doors; and I am not including the boot) 2011 Renault Megane III turns on 60W of lights plus some screens (3 front dome lights, 3 back dome lights, 4 door lights, the dashboard backlight, the dashboard computer, the radio screen, and possibly the boot light or the glove box light). If you have the exterior lights coming on each time you unlock the car, you can imagine. This amount of Wattage (divided by ~12.4V to have current in Amperes) should not be discarded lightly. This may influence the charging process. I have experience this first hand. Since then, I changed two things: - Changed interior lights to LED (from Philips); - Wait 15 to 20 minutes before I connect the charger.
@@hitardo Interesting. The battery chargers terminate charge when the target battery terminal voltage is reached, so us of an Ah or two during the process wont be a problem. Constant low current drain is a problem however.
@@razenby I understand. Thanks for the insight. But, due to that spike in current drawn (by dome lights of opening a door), can the battery charger increase the current provided and damage any component, especially halogen lights, which are more susceptible of damage?
