NOCTUA NT-H2 vs NT-H1...What's The Difference? 

definitely on gpu's. It's not that important on cpu's where spreading the paste can trap air within it

@@namenloserflo But have you tried it both ways several times? Maybe you tried it once and had a bad experience or something? Personally, I've tried several application methods several times, and FOR ME, nothing beats a full spread on the TIM, and then a tiny spread on the heatsink baseplate.

Another youtuber demonstrated that the most effective method is to first spread, and then add a tiny dot in the middle. The spread ensures 100% even coverage, and the tiny extra dot in the middle works some kind of voodoo that eliminates the formation of bubbles.

I appreciate the feedback 👍🏼

Thank you for you for watching. A late response. I will be posting again soon!

I learned the hard way some years back. After experiencing instability and other weird stuff during games I decided to double check the paste. Sure enough there was a corner not covered. Re-applied the paste by spread method and problem disappeared.

I have yet to have any issues with the pea method. As long as you put enough it will spread evenly once you put on the heat sink. The spreading method is by far the worst because if it isn't spread evenly it can create air pockets where heat can build up.

Nope. This has been tested over and over by many other more experienced reviewers and spreading the thermal paste is the best and safest method. But you can do what you want. At the end of the day it is your hardware. 👍

Heat expands thermal paste

@@DanYT92 yup that's why its advised to go for the pea method for cpus. GPUS THO cover that whole bitch up lol

It's been 1 year and 6 months since I built my current PC. It's barely dusty inside... like BARELY at all. Half of it is how you have your intkae/exhaust set up, but most importantly, do you have filters on your case? That's what saves me. My front intake filters fill up with dust FAST... so I wash them with just hot water in the sink, let them dry and put them back on the case. I know I could blow a little dust out of my case, but nothing compared to some of the cases back in the day that didn't have filters. Only thing about filters is that... they restrict air flow. But, I do have 140mm high static pressure fans with high CFM and I can feel the air sucking in strongly through the filters and when I open the side panel, I feel the air blowing HARD, so... it's not so bad with the right fans (I'm using Arctic P14's). They have insane static pressure. Typically, that's for blowing THROUGH filters, but apparently it sucks air through filters, too, lol.

@@JustAGuy85 Ive had my PC 7 years now never had much dust. I keep it completely open cause i switch my stuff out every so often and it runs it cooler. A completely open PC has no issue with dust in my experience

@@chrissoutdoorsgardening1261 Interesting to know. I wouldn't have guessed that about an open PC. I kind of figured the static electricity would have attracted some dust but, yeah, guess not.

You're welcome!

This is good thermal paste. But overall you're looking at a few degrees improvement at best under the right circumstances. 😊.

@@TechnologyHive I bought the Noctua NT-H1 in 10gm size. Id rather have extra than not enough. I have a few GPUs to rebuild and a pc to build.

@@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS You'll be happy you did. NT-H1 is a good thermal paste. Idk if you have seen my RX 6700 XT video. The thermal paste that came with that card was already hard. And it is a new card! I just changed pastes on an old graphics card after 3 years with NT-H1. It was still soft. Temps where the same. Replaced only to see the difference. 0 difference 👍😊.

@@TechnologyHive I have to replace Thermal pads on a Gigabyte 3080 and my arctic paste is really old. I am going to take my Powercolor 6800 apart just to do it because Im curious. I have a prebuilt coming with a 3060, and 2 more prebuilt pcs with 3080s that wont be read for probably 2 more months. Ill probably sell the prebuilt pcs with old cards or without and keep the cards for builds for others. Ive given up on buying GPUs by themselves. Im mining on the Gigabyte 3080 to pay off the credit card debt from buying it. Thats why I need to replace the pads. Vram gets HOT, and I capped the power to keep it at a safe temp

@@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS I'd definitely check the old thermal paste in those 6800's. Just a tip. Make sure to double check that the new thermal pads are not too stiff. I bought Arctic Cooling pads for my card's VRM's a while back but when screwing down the heatsink, the pads where so stiff that the pressure from the screws was not enough to bring the heatsink in contact with the gpu. So the correct mm thickness is crucial and composition. I'm sure you know what you're doing but just wanted to throw that out there. 👍

Thanks for the info.

Thank you!

I learned it the hard way. I used to be one of those, doing the pea method till I started noticing hot spots. I realized the error of my ways and started spreading my tim applications. Never had that issue again. 👍

Thank you!

This has been tested over and over. Turns out to be a myth. No you don't have to worry about "air pockets" as all metals expand when heated, and as pressure is applied down over the ihs from the heatsink, a spread of thermal compound will also spread out, pushing any voids of air out with it. It's not like when you go and put a plastic film over your phone's screen to protect it from scratches, and air pockets are most of the time present and you have to squeeze them out. These are not the same materials or elements. In the end it all boils down to what really works in keeping things in check. If the dot method works for you, great! Has it worked for me always? Nope. Has the spread method work for me always? No, but it was my fault for not installing the heatsink correctly. Other than that, the spread method works best and it ensures you have covered all corners with thermal paste. This is just my experience on this topic.

@@TechnologyHive what would you suggest for laptop with lower pressure chamber? which paste would work better?

@TvTech Enthusiasm MX-5. This stuff is real viscous. Won't run.

@@TechnologyHive and what you think of Thermalright TF7 and Maxtor CTG8? Also, how TF 7 compared to TF8?

@RU-vid Commenter It would work just fine on a laptop. I have stuck with MX-5 for all my hardware because of its longevity.

Glad to help 🙂

Thanks for watching!

No. The thermal paste included in most Intel, AMD, and Nvidia products is made by Dow Corning. It is good quality paste which is meant to last for years. The thermal transfer may not be as good as third party TIM (by 2-4 degrees), but it's longevity is good. No need to change it unless you want 2 degrees lower Temps and then have to reapply it a year later.

LM works great on CPU's and nickel plated GPU heat sinks. The problem is that when you apply galium based TIM's on copper "evaporation" occurs. For example if you take your laptop apart after having applied LM on your heatsink, you will notice the copper has "absorbed" some of the galium, leaving you with less TIM in between the DIE and heatsink. In time you will notice your temps begin to go higher and higher because of lack of TIM. I'd advice you to stick with thermal pastes instead. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Noctua NT-H1 or 2, MX-4 or MX-5 are excellent long term choices. Of course it is ultimately your choice but I would at least consider it.

@@TechnologyHive so as soon i see rising temps without with dust blocked fans i know i have to reapply LM, yes? Its 2 months ago i applied the LM, even though already about using LM on the desktop but since the temps are pretty ok on the desktop i will still use thermal paste or even pads. Sadly the 9750h i7 isnt running well with any thermal paste, i tried arctic MX4 and one of the noctua pastes, both are only slightly better than the original one and the CPU still cant maintain 3,8 GHz, and we talk about GAMING, as soon i start any heavy CPU workload even the LM isnt enough anymore at 45W+ and i have to apply manual turbo clocks so i have at least stable 3,6, probably 3,7 GHz instead of jumping between 3,3GHz and 4 GHz in very high temps. completely stock with a (AVX-free!) prime95 version the CPU was even only capable of 3GHz allcore since it was running permanently on 95 degree, max of 100 where i dont feel save anymore. I always tried to stay well under 75 degrees, but these were my desktops, i know notebook CPUs running hotter but cmon.... 95 degrees are not ok. with LM i have much more stable turbo clocks and in games also stable 4GHz when i enable permanent 45W, but in the lower 80s instead of 95 degree for "poor" 3,6GHz. I really hate that somehow these notebook CPUs have such a small die, heat dispersion is pretty fked up like this. most stock notebook i7s should be fixed at maximum 25W with proper undervolts instead of pushing them for some 100Mhz to 45W and in thermal throttling, ending up with even less performance or in the case of gaming with annoying framedrops due throttling. I think maximum about 85 degrees is pretty ok, as soon i hit the 90s, i will reapply LM and be happy once more for a while instead of getting annoying by thermal throttling. I realized already, its also a downside to have to slimmest RTX 2080 notebook on the market with a "full size" 150W version of the GPU. Only the noise can be pretty annoying and somehow you cant configure the TDP on the mobile RTX cards, at least on mine. I really would love to cut the GPUs TDP down to 100-120W, would make the notebook MUCH quieter and performance would be still pretty nice. the 190W Vbios is mostly used for 1440p or 4K gaming on the TV, gives me also something between 5-10% fps boost, especially "needed" in 4K. The 190W Vbios was anyways the main reason to apply LM, i was also fine with the CPU manually limited to 3,8GHz with undervolt, kept the temps "low" and noise level was some sort of ok. But with LM.... damn, full performance and the same noise level as with undervolted and underclocked CPU.

@@TechnologyHive I mean, could LM "destroy" the heatsink? its truly a copper heatsink, never though about this especially since it was recommended for the 190W Bios on the exact same model as mine and the much better thermals are some kind of "needed" and many people use LM on this exact machine. the MX4 was my first try - it was ofc a improvement, but far from enough to hold temps down on the CPU. I even tried it once with pretty much nothing of thermal paste, was the better result and then with slightly more which were already worse than stock. More pressure on the heatsink mounting/CPU die isnt a solution, i dont want to break my CPU. I saw, the complete heatsink with thermal pads for VRAM and VRMs cost only 80$ at AliExpress, a good choice to get one as spare part when i use LM in long terms?

@@harrison00xXx honestly I would just replace the LM with thermal paste. Waiting longer will only make things worse. Kryonaut is rated at 12 w/mk heat transfer so that is an excellent choice in my opinion 👍🔥.

Technology Hive i removed it once more, there is no real damage to the copper plate yet after soon over 2 months cryptomining with it 24/7 I sadly love the low temps as much, i cant get back. Instead i ordered a spare heatpipe/cooler and even 2 spare fans if one ever stop working, everything under 100€ :)

I think you're talking about where I cut the video and jumped to resetting the monitoring metrics. It looks like it went immediately to 65 degrees but that's because I edited the time in between.

Saludos :) Pues en mi opinion, basado en uso personal y comparando con otras pastas aqui, la que siempre regreso a usar es la MX-5. Y estoy jugando "devil's advocate" queriendo encontrar otra si ahy caso para substituirla. Pero no encuentro rason u otra opccion mejor. La MX-5 fue la que use para quitarle la capa a mi 3600 usando una plancha para ropa, (mira el video) la temperatura alcanzo a 170c por varios minutos y cuando se termino todo, la pasta no estaba seca ni perdio su textura. Es mas, la pude haber usado derecha de la plancha un GPU o CPU porque no perdio para nada su textura. Me sorprendio. En fin, solo uso MX-5. Fin :)

Yes, I would. I personally use MX-5 on everything. But Noctua's NT-H2 is a great option too. It may even be better than MX-5, but at this point, I don't bother comparing the two since they both have done well.

@@TechnologyHive I appreciate the feedback thank you

@@TechnologyHive a few more questions what does also be good for my integrated GPU and will this guarantee put 10c down ?

@AnimeDragon64 There are never any guarantees with these things. All I can tell you is that MX-5 is great thermal paste, as well as NT-H2.

I appreciate your honesty thank you for the feedback I appreciate it

NT-H2 is competitive and better quality that it's predecessor. But I like MX-5 because of its durability and performance. In all my tests, on camera and off camera, it came on top. 8 years without losing its thermal conductivity is impressive.

@@TechnologyHive well i had a bad experience with mx5 recently. I got first a 8 gr seringe and it was amazing then i bought a 20 gr one and it is looking very bad. i stripped down the cover of the seringe and 1/4 part of paste has a yellowish tint another 1/4 seems like a silicone almost transparent and the other 2/4 is more dense than my usual 8gr seringe,also colour a bit different. i have contacted arctic and they said it is original product.... i am not happy at all. all expensive premium thermal pastes usually have homogeneous content

@@3mariusx wow that does not sound good. You should get it replaces. I've never experienced that before. But it does sound like perhaps it's bad batch?

Technology Hive they did not said anything about it.... i have asked them if it is ok to transfer the paste into a jar and mix it a bit but i got no response from them anymore 😧🤦🏻‍♂️ usually contact with oxigen can degrade some pastes. I think i will get back to my kryonaut :)) yes it scratches but at least you get an even content in the seringe.

Technology Hive Arctic replyed back to me today and say they will send me another 20 grams good seringe of arctic mx5 so everything is ok i guess.

Isn’t that method recommended for CPUs with an IHS?

I think they are all easy to apply. If you've ever used IC Diamond you'd know what I mean 🙂

Hi. It's an "ifixit" kit. www.komplett.no/product/1125178/pc-nettbrett/pc-tilbehoer/reservedeler/ifixit-pro-tech-toolkit

@@TechnologyHive thanks mate!

The NT-H2 would be perfect for your PS4. Non-metallic base.

@@TechnologyHive Excellent, will do! I very much appreciate the response.

I agree. MX-4 has a long lifespan. Been on a GTX 970 for years now. Still same temps as when first applied.

Yes. I use it everything I'm applying liquid metal. But also with regular thermal paste to remove impurities from the metalic surfaces.

I've never tried XTM-50. I like whatever is good and cost effective 🙂

Fan speed was locked at 80% 👍😊. NT H2 works good. I'm pretty happy with it like most noctua products. Always spread your thermal paste on a die. A spatula works just fine. 👍

He stated the fans were static speeds if you watched. He also went over the blob method and his stance. If you don’t spread the paste thin, it will still compress exactly the same as any other method. So technically, covering it evenly with a tool, and letting the force finish the job is the best way. Pea size blob or X has no benefit as it will always miss spots, and not once will it compete thermally with covering the whole die. Thermals aren’t better so it makes no sense

Even the “non-dry” section of NT-H2 is viscous AF, and STICKS to the die of the chip. Amazing paste to be fair.

@@satsumagt5284 not working in my rog laptop. Its thicker than arctic alright but i have to reapply every 3 to 5 months depending on use. I'm gonna try carbonaut next.

@@hphp7587 I currently use NT-H2 on my laptop! It’s a Samsung Odyssey with a GTX 1650. Seems to be good so far, I think it’s been a month since the repaste. What issues are you experiencing?

@@satsumagt5284 when freshly applied temps are 75ish. As time goes temps reach upto 90 which is when i replace. Actually when i open to repaste there is barely any paste left in the center of the die. 1 month is less. Please tell me after 6 months if it's stable. I really don't like opening and repasting because I could cause more damage. Its not that i dont have time or i am tooo lazy.

@@hphp7587 That’s interesting. Are you also using the NT-H2 and not the NT-H1? The effect you’re describing is known as pump-out, I believe. The previous paste (cheap stuff the service center put on) had pumped out VERY BADLY on my machine, to the point where there was basically nothing covering up the die. That MF would throttle at 23W without Beast Mode. What affects my temps the most currently, is ambient temperature. Under 20 (close to 16) is where it shines. If I run XTU2 with a cold heatsink and Beast Mode on, it never reaches throttle temperature if ambient temperature is good. But heatsoak on heatsink is real, therefore longer gaming sessions are… Quite hot.

It will work just fine 😊👍 it's perfect for both cpu and gpus.

@@TechnologyHive thank you buddy!!

So H2 would be better?

@@2Pac.Thadon it's been improved over NT-H1. So I'd say yes.

@@TechnologyHive My man!

They see others applying LM with Qtips so they think that's how you apply all tim. 🙃

hi chris

​@@paljardine1538💀💀💀

No difference

I trust what I can see myself. Companies are always going to promote their own products. Its all marketing.

NT-H2 might be a great thermal paste, but it has not been around long to say it's like "long life oil". BTW, there is no such thing as long life oil. That's just a marketing scheme. No matter what they claim, you should change your oil as recommended by the vehicle's manual. To put it in some way you might understand, oils are mostly synthetic nowadays or man-made, and are a mix of detergents and other chemicals like PTFE and molybdenum. These do breakdown in time, depending on usage. The best way to keep your engine running clean and well lubricated is to regularly change your oil, no matter the type, according to the vehicle's users manual. I hope you get it.

@@TechnologyHive WRONG.Long Life oil is a high grade, fully synthetic oil with increased resistance to ageing at high temperatures best used in in highly stressed engines, utility stuff etc....idiots when they hear "long life" the imediatly think many miles....how many miles you drive doesn't matter, it matters how much you stress the engine so there IS such a thing as long life oil.

@@mrmrmrcaf7801 Not forgetting a good oil filter, the type with the magnet in them.

I made this video especially for you. I knew you'd love it so much that in fact you'd leave a comment. Thanks 😊

@@TechnologyHive 😳😂🤣

@@thespectator3312 😁

I made it especially for your pleasure. Thanks for watching!❤

I don't do it intentionally. I was in a car crash years ago so recovery is still in progress. Brain damage is hard to deal with but I'm trying 🙂.

@@TechnologyHive my apologies, sorry te hear that.

@@jermainesabajo7225 its okei I'm used to it. I hear it all the time. 🙂

Thanks for watching 🙂