i've used wax toilet seal rings! works pretty good. I've also used large veterinary syringes to apply it. just heat it until it's fairly drippy, pour it into the syringe and seal it with the plunger. you might have to ream out the head where the needle normally goes but the plastic is soft.
Greasing chamber mouths is unnecessary, and messy. In nearly 40 years and many thousands of rounds I have never greased a chamber mouth. If your projectiles are correct size and chambers truly round there's no issue. Back in the 1800s no one did this..... too messy for a carry gun.
The best thing on Black Powder Lube is the different choices to be made, I have used bees wax, gulf wax and lard mix. Bear Fat, Lambs Tallow, Buffalo Tallow, Olive Oil (I like the Bear Fat also) just so much to chose from that works well, I have heard, read and seen Murphy`s Oil Soap used in lubes. So many different recipes none are wrong (except bacon grease someone slipped, forgot about the salt) Even then in a pinch bacon grease will work, clean excessively after, But knowing if I had to may not be greatest choice, if none other available, it will work.
I did 35/35/35 of pure beeswax, crisco, and olive oil in a small crockpot set on low which is 200° and for a little added zing I put some mint food flavoring in for a very pleasant smell. Makes great chapstick too, wife loves it lol.
Lambs tallow is the best. For my bullet dipping on my conical balls or for my combustable paper cartridges I use a 50/50 bees wax and lambs tallow. The consistency of that mix is like a softer wax and adheres to the bullet well. Stay away from non rendered beef or pork fat as they are high in salt content. If you plan on keeping your revolver loaded for a long period of time, just place a thin carboard wad over the powder before adding your felt wonder wad. It will keep the powder dry and won't allow any extraneous grease from fouling the powder charge.
Everyone swears by Lamb Tallow. Might have to order some to make the lube. Also like your cardboard idea. I do not use lube or lubricated wads when the revolver is kept loaded for the reason you listed. However, the cardboard should solve that issue and will begin using it. Thank you!
I tend to stay away from Crisco as a black powder lube, but when I make lube out of bees wax and lard or tallow I add a bit of dish soap or a piece of bar soap. This helps with clean up and keeps the fouling softer so if your Remington style revolver binds you can lower the loading lever, pull the cylinder pin (leave the cylinder in place) and push it back in and go on shooting. I enjoy your videos, thank you for making them.
I like that idea of adding soap to thw lube. Thinking about trying that when I make some lube with lard/tallow. Also, I am happy you are enjoying my videos, thank you.
@@dwilliams6642 It really is not that good a bullet lube. It can sometimes give a hard fouling that is difficult to remove, and in the case of a '58 Remington style revolver the fouling can bind the cylinder after firing a few cylinders full. Lard or tallow work much better.
my mix is a 40:60 tallow rendered from beef kidney fat and beeswax. Kidney fat tallow is very hard and makes a stiff mix. iIn the past I have tried several types of oil but find it sweats out of wads and makes a wet mess. But thanks for the ideas i may try them.
Cheap candle wax and Vaseline is a very easy and effective method. It dissolves the black powder residue making it softer without reacting with it to make it more corrosive in any way
Good video! I prefer tallow as it has a much higher melting point than pork fat (Crisco), olive oil, or any other short-chain saturated fat. Just collect your hamburger fat or see if you can get some beef trimmings from your butcher. I tried the over-ball lube method, and found that even with beef tallow/beeswax, I had a lot of fat run down the cylinder and toward the handle. I either use homemade "wonder wads" or run a lubed up swab down the bore every cylinder.
I was thinking about trying some type of animal fat, but the wads are so much easier. Planning on buying the punches to make my own in the future. It just so much easier and cleaner. Thanks for watching!
What you're making is pan lube. It's supposed to be melted in a pan with boolits inside then the boolits are plucked out. These are firm lubes for that purpose. The way you're using it, you should just use pure Crisco. There's no need to firm it up with the wax. It only makes it harder to put into the chambers.
Yeah.. straight crisco.. so it melts out of the cylinders while your gun is in your holster lol. You WANT a firm higher melting point lube for over cylinder lubricant. So it doesn't melt in your holster
@@nsboost You must have a really hot holster if you're melting Crisco in it. Not many people carry these, for range use Crisco is fine. For field use I put a hard card on top of the powder then lube under the ball. It won't come out. Or better yet use a pre lubed conical.
Hey dude. I mix it to where you can kinda break it up with your hand. Then i break off a little ball the right size and just put it in with my finger. Very easy.
1) That's knife abuse! I hope that isn't a real 110 Buck. Why do you think they invented Popsicle sticks? Or fingers? 2) The second and third lubes are on the soft side because you used a volumetric measure for the bees wax. Since it is in kernels, there are air spaces in the cup so you don't get the full 1/4 cup of wax. It probably makes no difference in effectiveness but you may be able to tell the difference in feel. Nice demonstration.
Vaseline works really well too with beeswax.... Basically all BP lubes are beeswax... the oil/talllow/whatever is just to soften the wax. It's the beeswax that does the bizzo...
I started out mixing beeswax with vaseline, when I first bought a Snider many years ago. Long since abandoned it in favour of various oils, canola, olive, coconut… The vaseline had a tendency to make the fouling harden up. The best mix I found was beeswax and Ballistol, but that gets a bit expensive…
I use hamburger fat. I have 4 kids, often family over. A lot of hamburger helper, cheeseburgers ect so I end up with a lot of beef fat in a years time. I use the Gato Feo mix, 1, 1 and 1/2 ratio. I had 4 pounds of fat, 4 pounds of canning wax and my bee keeper uncle gave me 2 pounds of bees wax. Fired up the crock pot used to make soap and made 10 pounds of lube. I should be good for the rest of my life. Makes great lube for grease grooves, great lube for greased felt wads (mostly what I do as did the shooters of the 1880's) and great as a grease cookie.
If it gets hot and runny, add more bees wax. I found a 50/50 mix is quite firm and works well for felt wads. It is a bit too hard to use over the cylinders. To make it softer for smearing on the cylinder face, use more lambs tallow or coconut oil anfd a small amount of olive oil....makes it softer and smooth. It will lower the melting point in hot weather.
Yes, all 3 of these lubes will run out the cylinders in hot Texas heat 90+...Lamb tallow/beeswax is the way to go. If your loading and shooting at the range they are fine but if your loading and sitting in the car for a week youll need to leave the oils out. Just my experience
You have to either get rendered beef fat from the butcher or melt it down yourself and skim off the top and pour it through a cloth to remove any salt and waste particulate from the melted down lard.
