Great Video! I thought I was the only one.. I use a small round file with the point ground off and roll it to port it out- BAM- oil on the chain. Cooler, smoother, longer chain life.. Yet when I mentioned it to our Stihl dealer he looked shocked and started talking about designers with engineering degrees and voiding warranties on new saws. All I said was "wow- common sense ain't common I guess."
I have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that has had an oiling problem from day one. Even when It was new the chain was always dry and I would having to stop cutting and pour oil on the chain. Ended up replacing the entire oil pump but that didn't help. After seeing this video I drilled the oil holes to about twice the diameter of the factory holes and this solved my oiling problem. Thanks for the video.
You reaffirmed what my mentor old time logger taught me. He always started the saw and checked on the end of a cut to make sure oil was slinging of the end of the bar. He also said to fill bar oil to max but fuel mix to 3/4 or less so I would run out of fuel but still have bar oil. Thank you sir. Be safe and be careful
You're a boss Ironhorse...great tip that I will do on all my saws now. Thanks again for all your knowledge and also for answering the email I sent you right away. You're one of the few real guys out there. All the best and God bless
I was thinking the same thing I said man these hole on the bar are too small . I said wow I'm glad veterans like you share your knowledge. now I know what needs to be done to my bar, it was leaking too much oil and not getting enough to my chain.
Ironhorse, I fell timber for over 30 years most of which was on the west coast! I've ran a 36" bar a ton and this is what I learned. I started useing used engine oil for bar oil and my bar life was greatly extended. The myth is that engine oil is to thin. Its absolutely not true. I have tested in a big cut with many professional fallers who questioned me and after a cut my bar was cool to the touch whereas there bar would be fairly warm. The difference is bar oil is bio degradable and engine oil isn't. Put bar oil in your engine and see how fast it wipes out your bearings. Used engine oil has lubricating properties far superior to bar oil. Enouph so that I went from wearing out a bar every few months to useing a bar for well over a year. Have a great day sir and thank you for your vast knowledge that you share
Spot on Harvey. I’m old west coast logger. Ran oilers wide open. Old guy showed me to drill bars out like that back in the 80s. Oil is cheaper than bars and chains totally agree. Solid sound advice brother. God Bless
Thanks for the great tip Harvey. Maybe the bar makers leave the hole smaller so people that don’t know this trick will buy more bars as they wear out prematurely. You are looking good Harvey👍👍👍
Good one. I've been making paper bar plate gaskets to keep the leakage down and help hold the bar, and I like the results. I tried duct and electrical tape, but the adhesive turns to slime with the oil. Plain brown paper bags work well, but copier paper works well too, and you can use the plate to trace out the slot and holes with a pencil in a pinch or put the plate on the printer/copier and print onto heavy print paper or cardstock. Then stack or fold a few layers and cut out a bunch with an X-acto and gasket/leather punch set while watching videos. I keep a sandwich bag of them in my saw kit for each saw. I'm also careful to clean the bar and plates of all sawdust residue with paper towels and carb cleaner. The gaskets seem to help hold the bar from shifting up/down with less severe nut torque as well. I can't believe I never thought to open up the bar feed holes. Seems obvious once you know it, but it's not. Thanks! I have a new project on my list!
Great info!! Thank you for sharing. I have see those pained bars with the hole very restricted with paint alone. Good idea before just tossing "new " bars on.
Harvey, this video is perfect for me. I have an old 272xp that I thought had an oil pump problem. Figured out the Oil pump was just fine. I just wasn’t getting it to my bar like I knew it should be. This video here helped me out. Thank you
This is just what I was thinking needs to be done on my new Echo CS620PW 27" that I've installed a new Oregon 36" bar and Archer ripper for milling. Thanks for sharing the simplicity of it.
Great information Ironhorse! Some of your more expensive bars are opened up more! It does make a big difference! Keeping the area clean also with good oil! Thank you & God Bless your family! 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸🙏
Love it Harv. I am in the process if fitting a bar that's designed for an echo onto a husky. I'm gettin closer to it lining up with the use of a dremel. Thank you for sharing your tips. Love ya brother. 🌲❤🌲👊🪓
That's what I'm talking about, thank you so much for your time and like always your help. God bless you and your family and all your followers. With love Jay small
Great tips sir i been doin my bars had not thought of the bar plates until u demonstrated it!! I see new bar plates an permatex happen to my 3 main work saws 4sure!!! 066mag 395xp ms461!! Thank u sir.
First off, I've learned a lot from you, and am grateful for your videos. As a bonus to your knowledge, your voice and demeanor are just relaxing in general and put me at ease. Now for the meat and taters- the newer style Oregon Power Match bar has been real grime collector in my experience. Brand new bar with a brand new chain, and it still fills the rail up with gunk incredibly quickly. Is this a fluke deal, or have others been experiencing the same thing? My Stihl bars don't seem to collect anywhere near the amount of gunk as the Oregon. Going to buy a Christmas tree bit right now to try and help this bar out a bit. Thanks again brother!
Excellent advice 👍 I run Stihl 029 and one 250c they always oiled very well. I keep them surgically Clean and my chains are always wet. Thanks for doing this 👍🌲🔥
Great tip Harv. I’ve drilled out a couple of oil holes but nothing that big. Now I know the trick, use a dremel to shape the hole instead of a drill bit making it perfectly round. You know something is wrong when your tuning your saw, running it high rpm which means it’s pumping oil and you find a lot of oil running out of the saw behind the bar cover. That oil should have been carried down the bar rail and slung off the end. I’ll have to re-examine the hole alignment, how well it seals to the bar, and size/shape of the oiling hole. Thanks Harvey.
Thank you for for sharing your knowledge passed down from Mr Bob Johnson. It's a shame that so many people try to hide things from everyone else in order to keep a secret. I love you and people just like you. You're a truly wonderful person who makes my world better. THANKS AGAIN
It's like you read my mind... Sunday afternoon I was testing a 371 for a buddy and found the bar wasnt getting oil. The brand new bar which I ordered in for him the oil passage was not connected at all to the groove of the bar. Good thing I found the problem before he put the saw in his new mill he ordered... I have a secomd new bar for the same guy that has a similar issue, they list the bar fits his saw but the oiler does not line up with anything on the bar. I have to mod it like you show. That's what happens with stuff like that where they list so many saws a bar fits.
Hey Man! I've been watchin for over a year. An I believe you have given me the itch. To tear into a chainsaw. An I have seen your Holzfforma video. So really! You have helped me decide. To get a Holzfforma G660 with a 28 inch bar. Because I think that is a weird size for a bar. Had a Stihl MS660 with a 32in bar a few years back. An I really liked it. But the price. Scary considering what we are goin through down in the States. Anyway! I figure I'll run it for awhile. An the next time I get a few bills ahead. Take what the Ironhorse has taught me. An show my Buddies what a ported saw is. I've lost all the wise ole guys I used to run with. Pulling logs with a horse. Off some pretty rough country. Just to get a couple hundred a peace. After loadin an haulin on an old wore out Chevy one ton an a trailer. Thats all we had. But I wouldnt trade those days for nothin in this world. An you remind me of a time long gone now. I love you man. Thank you!
Another tip from an old hand, When placing a chain on a bar, use a pumper oil can to pre-oil the bar groove top, nose, and bottom with chain'n bar oil. Just like in your truck or car motor, the initial "dry start" will create fast wear. I see "experts" all the time on RU-vid putting new chain on new bars DRY and the reving it up, I guess they like filing the burr off the sides of the bar...
That was very valuable information Harvey !!! Thank you 😊 Oh by the way my blood sugar was 103 this morning 🌄 and no diabetic meds !!! Just diet!!! 😊😊😊😊🌎🌞👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this video you may have just solved my problem I'm going to drill that out and make it a little bigger replace plate Shield thank you sir. God bless
I've actually used RTV behind the plate you mentioned and on homeowner saws I have also made gaskets on the bar, used tape in layers to get the thickness I wanted and shape. Then put RTV down and used a card swiped over the tape to remove any extra RTV wait 5min remove tape and let it sit overnight. And bam oils flowing again. Bar must be cleaned before you do anything. But I'll definitely be opening up the holes from this point on. From Wisconsin Thanks for the Tip Iron Horse
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I hate a hot chain and bar, I will be modifying all my slow oiling kit..... not the Sachs Dolmars, they are fine but the Stihl I find are mean with the bar oil.
Thank you so much. You helped me big time. It seems like when you lift the tip of the bar before tightening the bar nuts on a chain adjustment or replacement, that a small bar oiler hole may not align perfectly with the oiler slot in the case. A bigger hole fixes this issue nicely. Cheers & Godspeed... 8^)
Not a problem I've personally had but I do see the issue and it makes good sense, if ur hole is relatively same as oil pump output...hey you got oil UNCLE HARVE ! LOVE YOU BUDDY, been cutting g down a big pecan snag out over my weld shop...been a lil harry but shes down and bucked shew..
Great tip.I been around long enough to know that one..cost of bars are threw the roof..as is bar oil..but it does really make stuff last longer..I fling lots myself..12$ a gallon gotta make a man puke. 👍👍
