Not surprisingly the dealer tech didn’t leave the tester on long enough to see it drop. Also you always want to check your work first when troubleshooting. Not everything is on the aux switches. Like the steps. Headed tot he forum to see what else it might be.
True. I believe the steps and winch are the only things attached to the electrical system not through the aux switches. If I were to be exhaustive, I’ve also relocated the front camera, added the LED ‘Raptor’ running lights and RTR running lights, relocated the adaptive cruise control sensor, disconnected the parking sensors and license plate light. Now that I’ve gone through this process, I feel that the 100mA is the default normal pull from the battery. High, but not crazy and kind of makes sense for newer cars with allot of options (convenience locks, push button start, etc). I think if I’m ever parking for longer than a few weeks, I’ll throw on a trickle charger. 🤷♂️ If dealer was at all educated and related to me that that was the case, I wouldn’t have had to go through this whole process. At least I know what to do now, if this issue ever really happens.
I guess there is more the dealer could have done but why would they? Battery drained and battery now shot. Replace the battery and send the customer on their way. Did they tell you to drive it more often?
I don’t have a winch disconnect. Maybe I’ll test the draw first and see if there’s even anything there to disconnect. The dealer (or at least the service manager, who was a jerk) didn’t seem at all interested in following up the issue. He basically said because he didn’t know what the problem was, it could cost $1000’s. 😒. Obviously, he didn’t know what he was talking about. I tried to talk to the mechanic just to ask a few questions, but I was barred to do so. 👎
@@neverendingweekend Because of the current involved it’s highly recommended to put in a disconnect. If something goes awry you won’t want to need to disconnect the battery cable with a wrench.
I had the same thing happen to my '22, which is nearly stock except for RSE power sliders. It was sitting in my garage and I went to start it and it cranked a couple of turns and quit. I think about every light and warning came on, especially remember the 4x4 and brakes. I had to use an old "dumb" charger to get an initial charge in it, then switched to a newer one that will shut off when charged. I reconnected the battery when done and it has been fine ever since. I now connect a maintain charger to it everytime I park it since it isn't my primary vehicle.
What happened to the good ol’ days! 😅 When you could park your car in the garage for the winter and would crank no problem in the spring! (..and I walked all the way to school. Uphill. Both ways! 😉)
Draw should me more like 50mA. I would still pull the fuses. I had the same problem. it was the door closed sensor in the passenger door. Another knowen issue is a module in the passenger side door being defective. Bronco6g that.
Originally I was looking for 50mA. But thought because of all the newer electronics that 100 was acceptable. 🤷♂️. You’re right though, I’ll look deeper. Thanks. 💪
