Definitely worth it. I put an m50 manifold on my s52 and tuned it. The top end pulls so strong plus it sounds better too. The powerband is like an s54 minus the 1000 extra rpm. Definitely lost a good amount of torque under 4K RPM so I ended up putting in a 3.38 from an auto m3 and now its perfect. Feels like an M car now.
That's sick! I have the 3.38 in mine as it was an auto too, but just converted it to manual. Planning on doing the manifold swap so I'm glad the diff made the... diff! What tune are you running?
Great video. When I was in my 20s I was a salesman for those models at a BMW Dealership. You're very talented and do great work! I love your cars! The only thing I would change is that I think the trims are too big. I think those cars would handle better and look better with 18 inch rims IMHO.
So much conflicting evidence on the question on the manifold makes me wonder if I should put it on my M coupe. DBO said in a video that it’s a myth and you lose overall power but there are dyno sheets that show some lose and some gain. Great video anyways!
The MS41.1 DME is far superior to Bosch ODB1 DMEs is so many ways, it pain me to see so many people go backwards converting to ODB1. The X20 engine harness to the body connector only needs to have a few wires swap around and an ODB2 port(4 wires) can so easily be added to an ODB1 chassis it's a 0 cost no brainer to keep an S52 ODB2.
If you just swap the m50 intake manifold then it’s best of both worlds. I thought that’s what all “obd1” swaps were just for the manifold but keeping the ecu of s52 right ?
I have a “new to me” 97 e36 m3 with an obd1 conversion & m50 manifold that the previous owner did. I don’t know much about how to repeat the process, or how much work it really is. But what I can tell you, from the point of view of a track car, it’s Awoken the beast inside the s52. Lol. The power on track is incredible. At my last event in njmp I was able to keep pace on the straights with NEW Supras, the did pull me out of the corners but over 90 mph it was close. My car is 2750 with me in it and I don’t have any dump numbers but I would guess around 240 wheel. The previous owner said it made 260 at a dyno shop but I’m skeptical.
Awesome to hear from more first hand experiences!! Insane how these things keep up with modern cars! But yeah 260 wheel without cams seems a little high, but who knows haha
Very interesting comparison. Even though the e34 is heavier is seems like the manifold and tune really make a difference. I'd love to see more driving of that e34. Great video!
@M3nameisjosh I've seen some of it. Would love a POV or a shot of the speedo when you get on it for a speed reference and some good audio. Looks like a fun build though!
Question if you have time to answer. Love all your builds and wish I was as talented haha.. But I did get an E23 733i but moved for work and let it sit for 4 months, and now it won’t start. I looked up on forums to change the fuel relays, did that, still cranks but injectors won’t fire, but started on starter fluid. Know anything common that does that? And is it worth swapping the stock motors in the E23s?
If it sputters on starting fluid then it has spark, so that eliminates crank sensor. Find the fuel pump relay and make sure its the right one, then jump pins 30 and 87 and you should hear pump run, if you don’t the pump died or its the wrong relay!
Appreciate this vid. Just bought a s52 swapped e30 with m50 top and manifold and trying to understand what that actually means performance wise. If I want to have more low end torque what are my options?
i just got my first e36, 1992 325is OBD1, runs great, but, it has slow pulsing surging on it's way up to red line, most of the time sometimes not. yes OBD2 gives more code clues but I'm 67 and fixed cars with no computer for decades. Do you have any idea what might cause slow pulsing fluctuation in rpm on the tach at idle and feeling it when pushing hard to redline, it was way worse before I added a ground strap at the battery, before i added the battery ground strap it lost half of it's power above 3500 rpm. then boom almost fully cured! Here in Hawaii the electrical corrosion is the most intense of anywhere I've ever lived, full electrical harness replacement here is common because of corrosion. so could be connection somewhere to something, but what: MAF? TPS? Maybe the main computer? Where is it? it's livable but I'm a little bit of a perfectionist, these cars are so nice it's like music, a symphony.
Hmmm, hard to diagnose without being there. No check engine light?? Fluctuating RPMs can be a cam position sensor, a bad vacuum leak, possibly a TPS, or a maf. 92 so im guessing its non vanos which eliminates that possibility
@@m3nameisjosh464 thanks for your response, it helps me to talk with others, I just realized on todays drive that it's not the tach varying a little on low end it's that vacuum gauge at the bottom of the tach and realized it's probably a weak hose maybe collapsing a little or the start of a vacuum leak, so i'm thinking clearer now and closer to the fix, and todays ride no pulsing all the way to redline and the cutout seems to be at 6600 or 6800, so happy happy, thanks again.
So I traveled for 120km with my bmw e34 525i and I got it full gas tank then it drained the gas quite fast. I'm not sure if that's really how it is and the gas consumption is that high or I'm experiencing some problem. Also during my road trip there is a burn smell for 10 seconds and it goes away. What should I check?
@dric @M3nameisjosh The burnt smell could be the blower motor resistor, change that and the cabin air filter or else your car can burn to the ground, i fixed my bad fuel milage when i changed my pulled my intake manifold, cleaned and rebuilt my injectors, replaced my vacuum lines and cleaned my icv, and replaced my fuel regulator after i did all that my milage really improved so one of those things or the combination of things helped
My BMW e34 525i starts well but it dies sometimes at low rpm and the engine has a leaping sound, not a continuousrunning sound when starting/low power. Could this be a need for fuel pump replacement?
I have a qk question on a e28 looking to change the suspension to just regular stock struts, shocks, springs just on labor what the going rate, much appreciated
There has to be mods that compliment the tune imo. For example a tune with an m50 intake will be noticeable! A shark injector flash on a stock s52 would be so minutely noticeable
@@m3nameisjosh464 thanks for the insight I have a e30 s50 swap with intake, s52 headers, m50 manifold, csf radiatior, exhaust, and was considering tuning it. Just wanted to insight on people that actually have tuned these motors
The driving comparison is kinda compromised with 1 having the intake done...also isn't there something with the headers or exhaust? The "shortys" headers they sell state they only work with obd1 cars,so I assume something is different. Lol u haven't purchased a intake in awhile have u?$150 is the old price,ur lookin $225-$250 now a days. Btw I obviously comment as I watch
Well thats the whole purpose of the video to show what the manifold does. As for headers both engines are on stock S52 headers, e34 ones just had to have one flange twisted to work with obd 1 exhaust. But you’re right its been a while since I’ve bought one hahaha
Idk why people do a obd1 conversion. If it came like that ok leave it. But no point on going back ... 🤷♂️. Manifold yes. More power from a obd1 converted ... not really. These days you can almost dial in a obd2 car with a laptop and a afr probe. Obd1 is just rudimentary. Actually jordan from rk tunes says this also 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
An e34 never came obd 2, theres not an easy way to adapter obd 2 into the car. Going obd1 is easier and cheaper. But i agree, taking an existing obd 2 car and going obd 1 is pointless
On board diagnostic 1 and 2 are both kinds of engine management. Same thing as motronic 1.1, 1.3, etc, yeah obd is a generic way to say it but idk what else youd say? Ms41 is the obd 2 engine management system
@@m3nameisjosh464 Sorry fella, but OBD 1 & 2 are not engine management systems in any way shape or form. They both allow you to read all sensors on the car. You can connect a DIS/INPA or any bonafide BMW diagnostic head to the car and enable or disable options as well as read and reset fault codes. Motronic is the engine management system and you can rechip or remap if you have the know how, or replace it with something like a Megasquirt. Also for info OBD 1 was fitted to BMW's from 1988 onwards, E30's/E34's/E32's and E31's prior to 1996 even the M30 engined cars, at least in Europe
i most of the diffrence was between the drivers shifting times than the tune. if you have 2sec delay in shifting than even the 40 les hp car /heavier will pass you.😂😂dont shift like ur cruising 😅😅
