Amazing series! THANK YOU! I have been working with a local carpenter and I am blown away how difficult it has been to discuss/debate/conclude on how to build it. I don't have the skills or space to build them at home. (although your video gives me confidence i could do it - your hours estimate might need to be x2 but you made it seem easy). Thank you... will absolutely be sharing this and telling them.. DO THAT! Love your OCD... knowing the carpenter i hired will not follow your hints and my doors will squeak. ha! GREAT JOB! GREAT VIDEO! You should do this for a living!!! Excellent craftmanship is hard to come by these days!
Spartan Hunter, you're welcome! I have considered building and selling these, until material prices got stupid high. Who knows, someday maybe... Yeah, it does take time to do it correctly but it's so satisfying when it's done! I sure appreciate the kind words.
Hey Brett, just finished building 4 of these with a buddy. Thank you thank you thank you. Learned from your 3 year review and made a few minor adjustments.
Excellent series of videos! You've come up with simple, inexpensive ways to solve some of the "usual" problems when building a blind (door sag, windows, etc.) I currently have most of my walls done, about to hang my door.
Awesome blind. Thank you for the detailed build. I've had an octagonal blind in mind for some time for both rifle and bow seasons. Your videos gave me the path to build it. Great job!!!
Great videos, Brett! I appreciate that we don't need to watch video of you installing 20 screws - thanks! You've included just the pertinent info. I have built the components and plan to tip up the base/floor (I am using 4x4 brackets) once the 4x4's are braced. Then pull up the wall sections and build it on top of the platform. I read your suggestion about building the roof frame prior to install. I don't plan on assembling the components prior to putting them together on the platform, so not sure if I can build the roof framing to measurements and hope it fits? Maybe I will assemble only the outer frame and center rafter. I will add a post with how it goes/lessons learned in case anyone else doesn't have a fork tractor and/or has access issues. Thanks again!
@gregjarosinski1783 I think building the roof frame as you described is a good idea, unless you are willing to build and assemble it at your shop, then deconstruct it for reassembly on-site.
Awesome video Brett! We used your plan an built 4 of the enclosed deer stands in my Agricultural Construction class. The plan is a great opportunity for students to learn construction principles. Howard Lake-Waverly-Winsted FFA thanks you!!!
You're welcome James! That's really great to hear. The process of building the deer blinds can be just as enjoyable as the hunting itself. I've been through your neck of the woods a few times, running hwy 12 out to hunt and fish in SD. Wishing you and your class successful (and more comfortable) hunting!
Oh my gosh, this is the best explained video I have see in RU-vid till today! I enjoy very much your detail explanations in how to build it. You must be related to Noah!! Thank you so much. I think this is exactly what we need. Let's see if we can build it as good as yours.
Brett that is a really nice tutorial and job you did on the deer blind. Taught me a lot and no doubt will save me some mistakes. I believe I am going to use some of your ideas.
Watched this a couple times now. I like the design thanks for going through the effort to make a video. I'm ganna do a Similar design just maybe not as expensive or elaborate.
Those screws on the window trim. Kreg jig screws, I buy them by the 50 lb box. Have them in 2 lengths. Most places these are high per screw. That's why buy them in bulk.
One of the best homemade blinds I have seen. Excellent explanation on the construction. If I could offer some advice on filming...slow down your panning up, down and side to side..I got a bit of a head ache after nearly 2 hours.
Very well detailed plans. Only thing I'm going to change is I'm going to extend the side frame members(also go to 2x8 framing) to 10' and add a 4' landing. Making it easier to access the door. Otherwise a great stand. I also bought a Krig Jig and on the wall studs installed pocket screws on the bottom. Really helped for stiffening up the walls.
Hi and thank you for a great job with this video. Is there any chance you could put a link to the plans that is printable. That would be really helpful. Thx
I love it and I am in the process of building one as I type this. I built the platform for this blind almost 2 years ago and put a plastic archery blind on top and now I am finally building the walls and going to put the whole setup together. Question about the large window and dimensions, the plexiglass is cut to 29 1/2" by 18" if the rough opening of the window is 1/2" larger then the plexiglass? This is the only part Im stuck on. Thanks for putting this together for all of us!
You're welcome! Yes, the clear acrylic should be 1/2" shorter and 1/2" narrower thatn the rough opening. You want a 1/4" gap all the way around so it doesn't rub when you open and close it. If you watch my window build video it will make more sense why the gap works once the seal strip is put on.
A really nice design and very thoughtful presentation. Thanks for sharing. I design pretty much everything myself, but I may just use your design on this one.
Took a 2x2 with a slight angle ripped off and screwed it horizontal above the window. I used treated plywood sheeting for that blind and I took the window cut outs and used them as the visor. Screwed onto the 2x2 and caulked the seam on top.
These are awesome videos, Brett! Thank you for doing this. I just got mine started and this will help greatly. Next problem...where is the perfect place to put it? 😂
Do you ever use wood glue? Thoughts are between he corner stud pieces and the 2x2 door frame to plywood connection? Just curious? Thank you for all the awesome videos!
You're welcome! I don't use wood glue for building and framing. When it comes to building things like this, construction adhesive would probably be the best option.
Agreed on the construction adhesive for subfloor to joist! No squeaks! On those mitered corner studs, a good bead of exterior grade wood glue would be a great addition. Agreed on not permanently affixing exterior sheating, just in case you ever have to replace a piece.
Hey Brett! Thanks for all the great content, really enjoy your work. I’m considering putting up a similar stand to this next week, but there’s only a month left before the season and the area I have to hunt is SMALL. They’re coming after the feed I put out and my apple trees 😠 but I’m worried putting up a box stand will spook them. I did have a ground blind on the hill but it’s made of brush and dug in, so it won’t help contain scent at all, and the deer have cut a trail right around the back of the dang thing, so I don’t think I’ll see a one if I use it. Help? 😂
I've been in your situation before... trying to decide if you should or shouldn't get stand work accomplished close to or during hunting season. If it's an archery stand you're working on, you probably should plan on it not yielding much for harvest opportunities this season. They may skirt around it for a while. I think you'll be good if you can get it done a few weeks before gun season though. They don't need to be so close to you. I've banged some improvements on a box blind at the end of rifle season and shot a nice buck out of it about 5 days later during muzzloader season. His movement in the woods was natural, but he was about 100 yards away from it.
@@UncleBucks I wish I could get mine that far away. It’s on a hill with lots of cover and houses the other direction. Thanks for the encouraging reply! I’m gonna get something up this week, even if it’s only temporary.
It could. My suggestion would be to build it completely, but hold off on caulking the seams until it is reassembled. I'd recommend numbering and labeling the components (roof metal pieces, roof osb sheets, wall panels, windows, floor sheeting, etc. with painters tape or a sharpie. That way, all of your screws and screw holes will line up when reassembling. I would keep the 2x4 framed rafter structure screwed together, and the 2x6 framed base structure screwed together as well. The sheeting could be left on those two components, but they would be rather heavy.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting it. How did you raise the blind into the air? Did you use a tractor to place it on posts, or add posts and tilt the blind up? Did you use elevator brackets? Thanks again. Cheers!
Thanks! I used a tractor with forks and set it on 4x4 posts I buried in the ground, without elevator brackets. There's a review video of it all set up) on my channel. Check it out!
I personally like having good width and height to my doors and not trying to "squeeze" in. One thing I learned since this build is that the adhesive foam strips applied to the door don't stay stuck on very well over time, but it's an easy fix with a rubber or felt strip of some kind instead.
Just finished my octagon blind. I followed your plans and couldn’t be happier with the end result. I plan on putting 8 or 10 ft 4x4s under it. What would you suggest for anchors? I’m thinking about those anchors that you can install with a impact drill and the add eyebolt. It will be on Iowa farm ground. Your thoughts? Thanks for great videos and plans.
Great to hear Tim! Those anchors should work just fine, but I'd go with at least 2 inchers and use a couple of them. Otherwise a couple of T-posts pounded down good will work also. Better safe than sorry!
Thanks for the fast reply. I think I will order a set of 4 that are 18” long with 3” diameter flight. Would hate to see it bow over. Wish I could send you a pic of the blind.
Sir, I’m trying to cross match that woodland brown. That durastain is $180 a gallon where I live I’m not paying that much. Any idea how to translate that paint color? I need a sample 🤣. Thank you for all your ideas. I’m almost done with mine. Just need the windows and a door. Oh and paint
Maybe show the video of the blind in the beginning to someone at the paint department... they tend to have a pretty good eye for color matching. Should get you close.
@@UncleBucksI’d like to send you some pics of my build. Thank you so much for the effort you put into making this video. It was so damn helpful I’m thinking of building a second one and try and sell it. I currently have about 40hrs into it.
@adamrivera1873 My email is Brett123 @DaneArthur.com. But exclude the "123". I don't want to type out my correct email here, to avoid spammers and bots.
I haven't been, but could maybe? I wouldn't get to it until this winter and I would have to figure out the material costs $ final price. Would you be able to pick it up iin nw wi?
I ended up just doing it exactly like your door and everything worked out perfect. I did a 6x6 square blind instead of the octagon, and framed it out like you would a house, but just changed around the door opening like yours and it worked out great! Thanks.
Just wondering how that untreated side wall plywood will hold up over time. I realize water won't sit on it and the stain will help some, but I'd hate to invest that much, especially time and then see it start to warp or rot in just a few years. How much cost differential was there between treated and untreated? Great detail in your videos, much appreciated!
I think it was about $15 a sheet higher for treated, so $100 or so in all. I think regular plywood with exterior stain will last. I got 20 years out of a sidewall with OSB painted one time when I built it. Regular plywood should go longer than that. Treated plywood should last forever.
after using it how has the windows worked out. also was the height of the windows ment for a elevated stand or will they work for it being on the ground.
The windows still operate nicely. I really like the vertical ones for archery. The windows here are big enough so that they will work at ground level or from an elevated position. If you are going to be on the ground, the horizontal windows may not need to be as tall, if you think you would want better concealment. This window design was to accommodate all situations. One thing I have noticed, driving rains do create a little water intrusion. Its not significant, but it does occur. It's a good idea to use treated window framing material and a treated wood floor, and be sure to have vents in the blind. Perhaps adding window awnings could take it a step further - or exterior shutters for the off season.
How much weight is here in total would you guess? I saw you put yours in place with a skid steer, but I have to go down a steep hill, so I am not sure this is feasible. Building onsite may be the only option :/
Hi Brett I'm a recent subscriber to the channel. Great channel I must say. I'm going to be building a couple of these blinds setting on 293 acres. Do you have the drawings in a pdf you can email??
If you pause this video around 46 minutes, the plans are there to screen capture. Otherwise if you provide an email address I can send them your way. There is also a material list in the description of this video, FYI.
I tried that on a couple of blinds I built before this. Didn't think it was worth the time spent mitering every piece of plywood, when caulking works just as well IMO.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting it. How did you raise the blind into the air? Did you use a tractor to place it on posts, or add posts and tilt the blind up? Did you use elevator brackets? Thanks again. Cheers!
Thanks! I used a tractor with forks and set it on buried 4x4 posts. I did not use elevator brackets on it. Check this review video of it all set up: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-peuh8MPerRc.html