Fixing a plugged PCV oil drain on a Kohler 149cc lawn mower engine. Oil was spewing from the PCV vent into the air box before the repair was made. Shows step by step repair.
Great job!!! Also, thanks for reminding me. I just finished working on this same mower for my daughter. Just did a Carburetor cleaning. Had water in the tank and the bowl. But as I was watching you reassemble yours you reminded me of crankcase hose on the back of the air cleaner plate. I dont remember putting that back on. Just checked. NOPE, I forgot to put it on. THANKS,for the reminder. 😅
3 years ago I disconnected the hose from the PVC valve to the intake at the air filter. I plugged the intake and plugged the hose with a bolt. I replaced the oil contaminated air filter, the fouled spark plug and cleaned the carburetor. It has run like brand new since.
ya I don't think you really need it anyway ... it's to save the environment by burning extra gas fumes. thanks I'm going to do what you did PROBLEM SOLVED 😁
I know this video is 4 years old, but it's just what I needed, to help a widow friend who has the same machine. And the Z-bend on her traction cable also broke, so your follow-up video on replacing that cable was also spot-on. Thanks for saving me a ton of frustration!
I have/had this exact problem. This video is very well done. I didn’t remove the coil assembly. Removing the 19mm nut on top with an air ratchet vibrated the flywheel enough to pop it off with a small block of wood and a pry bar. Reassembly was easy. Engine now runs like new. 1 pull start. Thanks!
Hi from Steve in wales, Great Britain did not realise this plate was under my flywheel once I cleaned it out reassemble and working sweet screen filter was also blocked .very happy it’s running .cheers steve
Awesome straight forward repair video... Could be that the PCV drain plugs during an oil change with old sludge, especially on those mowers without the drain plug underneath that you have to tip to drain out filler hole. Sludge still sloshes around in the oil reservoir even if you tip it the right way (carb/air filter up). Much greater odds of the plugged PCV drain hole than a blown head gasket, so this video is the proverbial cat-butt in terms of a nice fix. Very well done! Btw - call me paranoid but I love the fact that you instructed to remove the spark plug connector which I always do when servicing any small engine. Last think you want is the darn thing starting accidentally! Btw2 - gotta get/make one of those lift carts. Brilliant!
Thank you so much!. This fixed the problem that apparently developed over a year or so. I didn't have a gear puller for the flywheel but on my Toro the space between spokes were large enough that I was able to perform this surgery without removing the flywheel. I used a guitar string to clean the clogged outlet. Amazing how well it runs now! Thanks Again.
I just picked up the very same model lawnmower with the same problem , it wasn't running initially , but I got it to run and the oil was leaking from the same place . Thank you for the video
Note, to help prevent oil from being pushed out if this ever happens in the future, put an inline stone fuel filter inline with the PCV hose & it will not only save your air filter if it ever does happen, but act as a much nicer indicator that it happened if you get the clear ones. Add some fuel line & make it longer so the filters at the bottom of the loop forming a P-trap like under your sink.
Toro Recycler was blowing oil out of breather hose today. I blew through the hose and then the metal fitting coming out of engine. No more oil coming out. Hope my short cut worked. Thanks for the informative video.
Glad you did this video , I've never worked on a Kohler engine before . So this could really be helpful if and when I do a repair on one . Thank you in advance for when this happens .
Good stuff... i just fixed a mower exactly like this that had a hard starting issue, after i got it to run, then stopped, it wouldnt start even when hot. I took the metal carb completely apart, cleaned the removable main jet, the removable imulsion tube, carb body jets, all passage ways were fine, till i found a clogged jet, thats located inside a removabe plastic shaft like housing thats located right under the plastic throttle set screw thats lays under the rear choke lever connected to the govenor linkage. Opened up that jet and cleaned it thoroughly, now the mower starts right away, hot or cold, like it never had any issue, but i have noticed the mower has a slight oil leak into the air box area, im going to pull that PCV valve and check the drain hole, its probably somewhat clogged, time to open it up and stop the oil in airbox leak once again.
@@LostMountainRestoration Sure enough... the drain hole in the PCV was slightly clogged, i used the smallest tip from my acetylene torch tip cleaner to clear the hole, cleaned the crevice thoroughly with a q-tip, then poured in a couple of drops of oil, watched it drain normally like it should, put the mower all back together, and no more oil leaking into the air filter box.
First, thank your daughter for her service. As for the engine, it looks like a bad design if the oil return plugs easily. I think I would increase the size of the oil return hole. Lot of work I know but if it solves the problem it would keep you from tearing it apart again.Well, for that repair anyway. From one Ga. boy to another. I live about an hour below Macon. Good video.
Well done video' direct, and concise. How's the fix doing after this time? Something I hoped you would do is tilt the mower and flood that area with oil as was done earlier which precipitated the need for the fix.
Good video. About you're lift. I also watch Bruch Pender and like his lift except it seems short for me. I'm 65 Y/O, and 6'5". No knees also. Your lift looked taller than Bruce's. If so would you tell me where you bought it? My work bench is 39" tall. I would like to have a lift around that high.
I bought it at Harbor Freight. They also sell them at Northern Tool. I chose the 1000 lb model. They also have a 500 pound model that is less tall and less sturdy, in my opinion. This will lift to the level of my truck tailgate (2014 Silverado). You can look up the specs at Harbor Freight. com - With a 20% coupon it was just over $200 and it's a life saver for me, as my knees have also gone south. Good luck!
Am having the same problem,have try every thing I no and what have seen in your video but is not working. Secondly the spring was out before it was brought to my work shop,I can not have the same spring to fix it the.
PCV is the acronym for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It is connected to the air cleaner housing so the engine can burn off the fumes to reduce carbon emissions. So disconnecting the hose won't affect the engine's performance. Plugging the hose can eventually cause the crankcase seal to leak because there is no outlet for the crankcase pressure. The oil leak will be less noticeable because it will drip underneath the deck. If you check your oil level before mowing your grass and add some when it's low, you should be fine.
Great video! I have a question, what cause oil to spit from the crank case vent hose while the engine is running? I made sure the oil was not over-filled first. Thanks for any help!
Some small engines have a reed in the compartment beneath the flywheel that gets bent over time. Just replace the reed and clear out the oil drain hole.
Hi - is there any way to "bore" out that little drain hole to make the oil return easier into the crankcase? (Briggs v-twin 20 hp intek on a John Deere L120 lawn tractor). You would be drilling aluminum to bore it out but how do you keep the drill shavings from getting into the crankcase?
same problem with cub cadet 19" PUSHMOWER , cleaned drain hole and reassembled still pushing oil out the air filter though .6.75 hp 173cc ,,,,,,,,,, when reassembled used a gasket sealer permatex on head gasket to see if there was any leakage [none] do the piston rings or valves usually create this problem, ,oil is always changed yearly and correct amount replaced ..ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS THANKS
If your oil isn't over full and the pcv drain is working correctly I would suspect excess crank case pressure, usually either rings, head gasket or maybe a cracked block. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
still having oil issue ,,finally got piston rings [none available for most of the year] and checked the old rings and they were at service spec end gap limit so i thought it was problem solved . so changed the rings and still have the same issue with the new rings installed ,crankcase pressure excessive and blowing it out the air filter . pulled head & cleaned up and tested valves with head upside down and liquid poured into concave area and no leaks into the ports ,but the intake valve chamfered edge has a line/ridge worn from the valve seat contact .still seals fine ,adjusted valve clearance when did the rings ,head gasket ,new disc spring a little stronger one etc. ,new oil correct amount ..[apparently the disc spring was a added modification after 2009 models ] piston cylinder looks fine ,no scoring but cross hatching isn't evident ,,supposedly some models didn't require it? piston in good shape no wear on skirt and even wear on the piston rings when removed and examined.. intake valve shaft seal appears in good shape @@LostMountainRestoration
i realize video is bit old but please reply ,,,just read other comments how did you determine piston rings were good ,is there a proper way to check rings and compression. and wouldn't a faulty head gasket affect readings thanks
Yes. A blown head gasket was the other problem I was referring to. I had completed this repair when I first got this mower. When the problem re-surfaced, I headed right to the PCV system and that was the problem. I believe you can compression test the cylinder with a standard pressure testing device, but some mowers will have a compression release built in so make sure you know what the reading should be. Another hint that the rings weren't the problem was the lack of blue smoke or carboned plugs. Hope this helps.
What is the nomenclature of the reed valve? I have that problem but cannot find the part. Where did you get yours? Thanks for the video, I know how but need the valve and spring to make it work.
If you go to a site like ereplacementparts.com and put in your engine model, you can find blow up diagrams that will identify the part by number and you can normally order them. Hope this helps.
Tried that. My engine is a Rato (no kidding) 140cc made by Chongqing Motors, China. They stopped making them years ago but they do make larger engines (Rato) and use a different reed. Well I’ll take what I got from here and make the rounds of local repair shops and see what develops. Thanks!!
Thanks for the video. My lawnboy, same engine is leaking oil, I'm thinking from the main seal on the bottom. Is that a big job? I haven't found a manual yet. Thanks.
I am not sure. If you search around RU-vid you should find videos on it. I believe once you get the blade off you may be able to access the seal around the crank shaft and pull it right out. Don't quote me on it as I'm not familiar with your mower and I have not done this job personally. Good luck.
@@LostMountainRestoration Turned out to be the main gasket between the top and bottom pieces. Found a better-used mower for $150 even with electric start. Thanks again.
I'm not a small engine expert, but absent any other obvious signs of a blown head gasket and assuming all you have to deal with is oil in the air box, sure. That check takes about 10 minutes while pulling the head is a much longer process. I hope this helps you. Good luck.
I'm having this problem on an older 96 Toro super recycler. Do the older engines have basically the same procedure to do this? The engine is a Briggs & Stratton. I believe it's the quantum engine. Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
I don't know off hand. Take a look at your engine and perhaps you can see how it's set up. Taking the top and flywheel off is pretty standard, but you may want to refer to a manual or other RU-vid presentation to make sure. I think RepairClinic.com does a bunch of repair videos on their website which are model specific. You may want to check there - good luck!
Place a pry bar under the fly wheel and put enough tension on it to pull up any slack in the crank. Give the top of the crank a whack with a hammer and it will often come up. You can also try a puller, but be careful.
I had something similar, and basically did the same thing to fix. here is part 1 the symptoms : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wAJ6zru2SY8.html the fix Part 2 : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P-ElXfNDTjE.html
