Great job as usual. Just wanted to throw you a hint. I don't know what you're using for blasting media, but a general rule of thumb is to never use anything other that soda or walnut blasting media on engine parts. The glass or sand gets imbedded in the metal and eventually leeches out into your oil or fuel basically destroying the engine or wearing it prematurely. Soda blasting is great and cheap. After blasting, boil the part in water to dissolve the soda and rinse after it cools slowly to avoid warping. 100% safe. One more tip.. I like the milling you did to clean up the raised details. I've used a sanding block with 100 grit, and then 220 grit to get the same effect. Just putting that out there for people who want to do the same that don't have access to a mill. Jim
It's completely unnecessary to blast the valve cover with sand. After cleaning it, it would have been enough if he had just sanded the surface. Unnecessary additional work with blasting!!!
He takes obvious inspiration from tool rescue who took obvious inspiration from diresta. I for one really appreciate this style for build or restoration videos. It showcases the work without unnecessary voiceover.
It's completely unnecessary to blast the valve cover with sand. After cleaning it, it would have been enough if he had just sanded the surface. Unnecessary additional work with blasting!!!
@@dac232009 ?!? BMW had some very reliable vehicles, i mean, look at the machines from 1990-2004! 350.000 Miles are no problem for theese cars. You have to look for rust like you have to look at all vehicles... i really don't know what you mean.
A couple of tips.... You should never media blast covers like this, unless you remove the baffles. The blast media will end up getting inside, and contaminating the oil, resulting in a dead engine. You also need to turn your gun pressure up, or fluid flow down, you'll get a way better finish
Very good tips! I’m restoring a set of valve covers from Ford 460 engine and only sand blasted the out side and not the inside. When I was done I blowed out the inside of them with a air compressor and soap and water.
For most part, yes. Brake cleaner is an excellent degreaser. However, on cast aluminium, it will etch it very quickly and make even more work out of your job.
Admit it, you are a dentist for a living. Those powertools, this effort to find the last spot and dive into the deepest gaps... Love your vids. You have one more subscriber. Love from Germany :-)
I first learned about media blasting (glass beads - walnut abrasive - sand blasting) in airplane school in California. Afterward, we would dip the aluminum parts in an acid bath for corrosion protection and the parts would get a gold/yellow tinge. I got the brilliant idea to clean the rear aluminum housing off my Corvair. I didn't clean it completely and the oil pressure regulator got stuck with glass beads and lost oil pressure. I parked the car in 1976 and will fix it soon... still have it. Thank you for this video.
Thank god for people like you. I would never in a million years have the patience to do what you do. After about five mins of tediousness I would either take a 2lb sledge to them or throw them at something. I suppose that’s why people like me, pay people like you to do things like this. Nice job.
I'm not sure if anybody else has pointed this out, but when you media blast valve covers the media gets inside of the baffles on the inside of the cover. I have media blasted and powder coated many valve covers and no matter how well I think I flush the baffles, there is always some left in there when removed. You should definitely remove and reinstall the baffles to remove any debris to be on the safe side. I love your videos and keep up the good work. I like how you capture the patience required to do a good job.
When I go and clean parts I try and do the same as you did My dad always starts telling me "its clean stop wasting your time", but I always push through Thanks for doing that here too
Holy crap you did such a nice job on this! Should've used a fly cutter or a shell mill when milling the BMW logo down, probably would've left a nicer finish, but damn it looks amazing!
Now that's some serious cleaning... After two runs with the water compressor I would probably proudly have said to myself: "there, that's finished". Then this guy just got started...
Back in the 70s when I was in high school working after school and weekends in an International Harvester dealership repair shop, we had these things called "parts cleaners." It had a nozzle that you would direct solvent at, and a mild steel wire brush that looked like a massively oversized paintbrush. It would clean up incredibly fouled parts in nothing flat. I remember cleaning parts from model "M"s, "H"s, and "W-9" which were tractors made in the 30s and 40s from junk to something I could take home and put in my mother's kitchen in very little time. I don't know if they still make them, and I would imagine that they have improved on them by now. Maybe the EPA outlawed them.
Cool. May I give you some ideas/sugestions? Use something like a carb cleaner to remove oil build up. Could have used a higher build primer and block sanded it in order to achieve a flatter surface. Instead of the driller to surface/remove the black, could have just used a block with sand paper. Apply any material firstly on the tight corners to get good cover without runs. Run the gun a little closer to the surface to get a smoother finish. Sorry if that is inconvenient. But I hope it helps. I work with automotive restorations for a while. Nice work!
I confess that at first I thought that if it were me, I would do everything differently, but seeing to the end, I recognize that I could do nothing better than you. Good job. I hope it's expensive enough to make up for your effort.
Love the work, See you have access to a decent mill there, for similar projects in the future you could use a large diameter fly cutter at a very slow feed rate to give a mirror finish if desired. I really dig the climb milled look though!
