Fantastic Bill, youve done a wonderful job on it. Knew it was in a bit of a mess, but was confident you could get it going. Love the quiet running, looks fantastic next to yours. Cant thank you enough for your help. Cheers Gerry
I was actually quite surprised how well it ran once it was done as these motors are very temperamental. Pity it's been in the wars but it's going again and will last for years if treated better than it has been in the past.
Well done Bill. That brush component goes to prove that glue isn't the best of conductors! Hope the owner now has many happy hours running his Class 37. Thanks once more and great repair.
I just looked up the release date for this model and realised that this was the first locomotive I got in 1977! Interesting you mention sparks as mine used to spark like hell which was a bit scary for a six year old lol!!
Hi Bill I'm not sure if I'm doing this right to get hold of you. I've been watching your videos and was wondering if you would look at my locomotives. I have an email if you wish to contact,as I'm not sure how else to get you. g.suttling8@gmail.com
What a result😄 I’ve been ripping my hair out with a bad running “bargain” off of ebay. I have a Triang Class 31 it runs like a bag of nails... i have actually found three Track pins in the Bogie assembly whilst stripping it down I just can’t get the thing to run smooth. Was really gutted not had anything this old before but it’s beyond my skill set to fully repair... one day I will get her going again
I have one of these. It has little traction without a steel track underneath. Mine has been converted to DCC and sound. It was very noisy and I traced that to the nylon armature bearings. I rolled up some thin brass sheet and inserted it into the bearings to quiet the growl.
8H22 was the running number of a coal working in South Wales into Radyr Yard near Cardiff . Class 8 is partially fitted freight, vacuum braked wagons at the head of the train. I worked on the full size version for 40 years
I enjoy your videos. I found that the back of the motor bogie wheels can touch the traction magnet if the wheel back to back measurement is too small. This probably causes the sparking, Sometimes turning the traction magnet over helps with wheel clearance.
On my own 37 and 35 I removed the traction magnets as they have no purpose on modern nickel track. I've found the sparking on running after a service is usually just the cleaned pickups bedding back in.
Nice to see your videos back on RU-vid after such a long time. Looking forward hopefully to some new stuff if you’re able to. Have a Merry Christmas Bill 👍🎂🍷🍷
I originally thought the bogies on the model had been exchanged at some point for some spare ones off a class 50 as the cab steps are in the incorrect position. The reverse was quite evident on some withdrawn 50s as the cast bogies were reused leaving the withdrawn loco on a set of fabricated 37 bogies with the steps incorrectly positioned. A quick image search however shows thats how this model was made... they must of just used an existing production bogie design off a 50 already produced. An interesting video and I can tell you its a lot easier cleaning the amarture and comm on something this size then on the full size locos.
Absolutely. Although I get annoyed with tiny bits of wire brush pinging everywhere. T-cut is my preferred way to clean wheels these days. Just takes a little longer.
I was just drifting off to sleep when certainly woke me up and got to watching the finish of the video for once without falling asleep again (and no its not a boring video Bill ,, its late here in australia haha) haha Cheers from John in Australia
Hi Bill Just been watching this old Triang R751 of which I have one. The body still being in good condition rest of the loco most is okay. No picks from the trailing bogie still plastic wheels.. I did look at wondering if this could be converted to DCC. Seems not possible with ease. Any ideas Thanks great videos you seem to have a knack to keep these units going.
I can't help with DCC conversion I'm afraid I have no experience of DCC. The original R751 has no front pickup which results in poor running over some points and crossings. I'd want to replace the plastic wheels on that bogie with metal ones and rig up a pickup system back to the motor.
Bill both the green and black wires are lying loose at the motor end in my model. Can you tell me where these solder to as I couldn't make it out on the video. Thanks.
@@oobill So they gave it the same catalogue number despite having a different motor? I hadn't realised that. Of the locos I had as a kid my class 37 was the best performer. A great puller, fast and never derailed.
Not directly as the drive wheels aren't designed for them. I would add weight to the loco chassis if I had traction issues but mine pulls a rake of 3 coaches fine. Lots of coaches and any gradients would likely be an issue though.
I've cleaned mine up. Put new brushes and put it all back together correctly and all mine does is short. What is causing this? Do I need a new motivator or rotavator? I have found the problem. No insulator on the spring. It runs now but in the opposite direction to my other class 37s ! Can't see why ? Aggh!
The motor in these things can be temperamental. Keep it well oiled and clean especially the pickups but if they ran perfectly all the time it wouldn't be as much fun!
@@oobill I got to work in the end under the nut on top of the motor theres a little bras contact that had moved but when I put it the track it will run nicely for a few minutes and just stop but if I touch the the nut it will be again and so on I've try tighten it up and visor virser
@@ashlybrown5341 The brass contact needs to be in contact with the copper pickup and the brush retaining clip. If the brass contact has flattened it'll need bending a little to ensure good contact with the copper pickup. Make sure all parts are clean and dont over tighten the nut.
