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OM System OM-1 Best AF Face Detect Settings & Is Hi-Res Shot Mode Any Good? ep.472

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00:11 @laurendelosreyes9615
Hi Rob. Another great video. Just have a question regarding autofocusing on people when are moving like walking towards you. Does face detect do continuous focusing while it's on or do you need to focus using the shutter half press or back button? Or is there a better way to do it like just set the target with caf? Thanks again!
06:07 @offtraildog701
Hi Rob - not sure where I should be posting my questions s0 I'll try here ---- With the OM-1 and 12-40 Pro II, when shooting High Res , both handheld and tripod, the resulting 50Mb and 80Mb ORF is not as sharp as the normal 20Mb ORF. I have replicated this shooting all three modes on a tripod on a calm day. Is this a result of the pixel shifted image needing a lot of sharpening during post or is there a potential issue with my camera since this PP requirement never seems to be discussed - thx
Hi Res files: drive.google.com/file/d/18ANo...
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Опубликовано:

15 авг 2023

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Комментарии : 42

@laurendelosreyes9615 Год назад

Thanks for the excellent answer to my question. It answered my question and more. Thanks

@RobTrek Год назад

Glad to help!

@laurendelosreyes9615 Год назад

Tested out the settings and caf sensitivity +2 and the af release priority set to off worked great even when using a 45mm 1.2 wide open until person was about 8ft away which is expected. I'll try out the way you showed how to toggle between face detect and the af target area. Right now I use the backbutton to focus and one of the front buttons to toggle face detect on and off which is a bit hard for me because of my small hands. Thanks again

@snehasishkumar1 11 месяцев назад

Thanks!

@RobTrek 11 месяцев назад

Thank you!

@marksulloway5669 Год назад

Thank you. Just got my OM-1 and am working my way through your videos to get the camera set up for me. Still old school enough to wonder why I would need shutter or aperture priority when manual mode is available. Keep up the good work.

@RobTrek Год назад

Thanks. I think the introduction of Auto-ISO makes all the modes quite usable. It certainly makes manual mode a breeze.

@marksulloway5669 Год назад

@@RobTrek I agree completely.

@robertcudlipp3426 Год назад

Even though I don't own the OMI, this is one of Rob's typically practical and very helpful videos.

@RobTrek Год назад

Thanks, Robert. I try.

@TRUSKY1965 11 месяцев назад

I also wanted to comment that I have observed fewer artifacts, or at least smoothed in HR mode, when I use a lower shutter speed. It would be interesting if OM Systems could implement a combination of ND and HR modes, to smooth moving subjects, such as water. The OM1 is an excellent camera! Thank you!

@RobTrek 11 месяцев назад

That would be a great add-on!

@dretwav Год назад

Rob, I think everyone hates the clutch when the first get the camera. After training myself to always push the clutch outward when I pick up the camera I have eliminated accidental manual engagement. I find manual focusing combined with magnification is quite useful especially in macro. I use the clutch on the 90mm all the time. Otherwise, I like your recommendations.

@RobTrek 11 месяцев назад

Thanks. I think macro is a perfect application for the clutch.

@jonbarnard7186 Год назад

Interesting video Rob. I was particularly interested in your comments about the high res mode. Would you say that, unless you are cropping or blowing the image up large, it's better to stick with the 20mg size? Does sharpening in post sharpen up the high res files?

@RobTrek Год назад

The hires files sharpen up nicely in post. I was rushing a bit in the video but should have made that more clear. There are other reasons to shoot hires other than detail. There is definitely less noise in lower light and potentially more dynamic range. But generally speaking, no reason to shoot hires unless you're going to crop and/or print large in my opinion. I usually do multi shot panoramas with hires. It's pretty amazing. I haven't explored using hires to "scan" film negatives or reproducing artwork, but those are popular uses. Product photography is also a popular use case.

@jonbarnard7186 Год назад

@@RobTrek Thanks Rob. The reason I asked is I just scanned 3000 slides I shot in the 80s and 90s, using the high res mode on my OM1 and the 60mm. The raw files don't look great, but then the slides may not have been the best either; hard to say. One thing for sure, with the odd exception, a modern digital image looks a lot better than a slide, at least my slides. The dynamic range of slide film can't touch the dynamic range of modern sensors. I also think that any problem with a slide, (slight out of focus, camera shake etc.) seems to be magnified when digitized. I've also used a dedicated film scanner in the past, which scanned with a pretty high resolution, which is why I thought I should use the high res. mode. Anyway, some look fine, some look pretty bad. Some of the slides also deteriorated over time, turning blue and blocking up the shadows.

@oneeyedphotographer Год назад

@@RobTrek There's also better colour, you get all of RGB from each pixel site. That said, colour is an artistic choice.

@TRUSKY1965 11 месяцев назад

I hope OM Systems can make a new firmware that produce better high res shots, with ORF files that have better sharpness. The in camera JPEG’s of these files are sharper, but they are noisy too. For me, the best way to process the 80 Mpix photos is getting the DNG files from DXO Pure Raw and, then, go to Capture One Pro to finish the job. Excellent video, as always!

@RobTrek 11 месяцев назад

That's a great workflow for hi-res. Thanks for sharing!

@steveknight878 Год назад

The differences in apparent sharpness between normal and hi-res reminds me of the way that higher-contrast film often looks sharper than low-contrast film, but the low-contrast film actually had more information in it, but looks softer.

@RobTrek Год назад

Thanks. That is a good analogy.

@oneeyedphotographer Год назад

In general, the bigger the print the further from it you should stand to view it. For that use-case I would not to see much difference. I use hires modes so that I can choose to crop with no concerns about my ability to print. In some ways, lots of pixels is like having a zoom lens on your camera. You can't zoom in, but you can crop in. Arguably, that's not important if your camera could be wearing a zoom lens BUT I have a selection of Canon TS-E lenses, and I use them on a Lumix S1R in hires mode. There are no zoom TS lenses, but this is a decent solution to the problem. If I'm not using TS lenses, I often crop the bottom, sometimes the top of the image off in creating my photograph.

@RobTrek Год назад

Thanks for the feeback. A proper/normal viewing distance would mitigate some of the advantages of shooting hi-res unless your prints are cropped.

@oneeyedphotographer Год назад

@@RobTrek The prospect of cropping is the only reason I acknowledge for high resolution. It offers similar opportunities as zoom lenses, but you get do decide later, to change your mind, and to make more photos. Rarely does a photographer need to accommodate an abnormal viewing distance. Levon Biss is one.

@marcusprime357 Год назад

Great work Rob! Question. I've been watching Gavin Hoey work and he seems to be releasing the shutter button, for the shutter to fire. He would press the button, then his finger would go up and that's when the strobes would go off. How do you get the OM1 to do that and can I do it with my Olympus Pen Epl1? Thanks in advance! 😊

@RobTrek Год назад

I think this is just a habit he developed when shooting. I do this sometimes when I'm in a continous shutter mode like SH2. I don't know of any settings that would fire a camera until only after you let go of the shutter button. I'll have to ask him the next time he's live.

@mariusm2402 Год назад

Regarding the question of @offtraildog701 and the low sharpness of high res. I was facing the same issue. In my case the problem was the high res raw support of the raw converter (ON1) I'm using. ON1 is displaying the High-Res Raws without any error message - however the photos look slightly unsharp and flat. Maybe it's worth trying to export them to e.g. tiff with OM workspace and comparing them again.

@RobTrek Год назад

Thanks. I should have mentioned that in both Photolab 6 and OM Workspace, I was seeing the same results on raw, but got better results with Photolab.

@robert-peterwestphal1064 Год назад

Thank you ! But, I wonder what happens when putting two different priorities to AF-ON and shutter when pressing the shutter to fire the image. Will the priority suddently change to the one set to half press shutter, or will it be the one last used i.e. AF-ON ?

@RobTrek Год назад

Good question! The AF will lock onto the first button you push. So if you push AF-ON it will use that focus point first, even if you push the shutter button after that.

@olympusfotograph 11 месяцев назад

Good Morning Mr. Trek, I think there is a mistake in selections about Face and Af Point Selection in 3:06 compared to the Explanation in 3:25 and following. It´s vice versa as you showed before ;-) You mixed it up I think. Best regards. Peter

@olympusfotograph 11 месяцев назад

Ok, í‘ve seen. In 4:25 you said it right in a small second. „You changed it what you‘ve did“. Then you are right with the example just before. All Good….sorry

@RobTrek 11 месяцев назад

Thanks for letting me know. I make mistakes time to time.

@remusmoise8836 Год назад

Hello there, Rob. I have a question for you about the custom button function. I set the right arrow key to deactivate de AF function to MF and viceversa, I was using it on my EM1 MKII and I liked it. Now, in my new OM-1 the button works fine but if I turn off the camera or if I change the lens this custom button function is not working anymore and I have to go back to the control panel and choose the S-AF or MF because the right arrow key is not working. Any help with this issue? Thanks a lot and greetigs from Spain, Remus

@RobTrek Год назад

Hi Remus, I answered your question in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cgAi8R1Jm24.html

@travis3567 2 месяца назад

How can you make the 80mp image look better at a normal viewing distance and not zoomed in or cropped? Why does it look worse? Having a hard time understanding. Was considering upgrading from the E-M10 mark II to the E-M1 mark 2 or 3 so I can do high res mode… but this makes me think it would be a waste of money!

@RobTrek 2 месяца назад

Normal viewing distance is relative to the size of the print. You'd have to print very large and stand very close to see the difference. At normal viewing distances, 80mp is overkill. Hi-Res shot is best used for macro and art reproduction or if you need to heavily crop. I like using Hi-Res for multi-shot panoramas. I have some examples here flic.kr/s/aHBqjAq4Mz