📛 Become a channel member: ru-vid.comjoin ☕ Donate a coffee to support this channel: ko-fi.com/thomaseislphotography ❓📩 Direct support: thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/support-ticket
Ahhh, congratulations! I really hope you will enjoy the OM-1 as much as I do every day. For me, it is such a fantastic tool and I hope it will be for you as well! Thanks and hope you have a great time watching the videos :-)
Thomas you have shared invaluable information about the OM-1 to us that own it where this information has not typically been available. Please do keep up the GREAT work. We are enjoying it
Thank you so much Lee! Your kind words are much appreciated and I'm glad that the videos prove useful for your creative work. Thank you again, I'm humbled.
Thanks for this very professional insight. I’ve had the pleasure of owning the OM-1 for almost 4 months and keep getting pleasantly surprised by it’s capabilities.
Thank you very much John, I am very happy that multiple of my videos are helpful for your photographic work. Thanks for the comment and continued support of the channel!
Great stuff Thomas! Another subject which lacks coverage is 1. the stabilization (surprisingly as thats 1 of the biggest selling points of olympus...cant find a decent video about it) like longest shutter speed handheld at what focal lenght and 2. Long exposure noise (with LENR disabled) i know with my canon 800d if go for 2 minutes there will be hot pixels and specks in the shadows
Hey Alex! Thank you very much for your very relevant suggestions! I've added these to the list! Regarding LENR - by leaving it to Auto, you are set for most cases. I know this is not exactly what you wanted to know. But just as practical advice, leaving it to auto usually avoids all the hot pixels.
I was out shooting sunrise photos this morning. I sure could have used these tips! I’m going to go explore how to make those changes right now so I’m better prepared next time. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for this comment, Larry! It is so rewarding to read that my videos are contributing to your photographic practice - thanks for the kind words and I hope that the tweaks will lead to a more efficient and pleasing workflow.
I wish I had seen this video before i sent my OM-1 in for repair. I noticed that when i put the flash on the camera and tried to use the viewfinder or live view in low light, the display got very slow and "dreamy" like. The reason i sent it in was because it was noticeably worse than with my EM1 Mk3 under the same conditions. Anyway, they have had my camera for about 3 weeks and no return date in sight. I probably should have switched to S-OVF and left it at that. A very good video. thank you.
Thank you for sharing that Dennis! I hope you will get your OM-1 back from service ASAP, seems like all repair centers are very busy at the moment, regardless of manufacturer (same with Nikon at the moment).
Thank you for the helpful guide. I think OM-System should scout you as an OM Ambassador😉. First time for me that I used the Nightvision LV. It worked well during night photography of city scapes. I also found out that in combination with the drive modes SH1/SH2 and Procap1/2 the S-OVF and NV LV can not be selected. I guess somehow S-OVF takes more processing power than the standard VF mode.
Hehe, please tell them (although I would not want to give up my DSLRs, sometimes I need optical VFs). Yes, regarding the LV modes are some limitations. Also, it seems that Frame Rate High only applies to Standard LV. I think it is both the processing and the fact that the LV is generated by "exposing" the sensor to generate the preview. At certain drive speeds, the sensor cannot be read out in the required rate, I assume. I'm glad that NighVision worked well for you! It is a cool addition to an already very cool camera. Thanks for the comment and sharing of your findings!
hi, for me it was. I can only speak for myself of course. I traded my E-M1 III for the OM-1 and kept my E-M1X as a backup. After a while I noticed that the E-M1X has a few advantages over OM-1 the first is the feeling of the body. The OM-1 is far from bad. But the X is just perfect. For my photography I benefit from the subject detection for wildlife. The X is definitely not as sophisticated in this regard. If you mainly photograph still subjects there is no reason to upgrade in my opinion. The AF is mainly improved on moving subjects. After a few months I deciced the trade the X for another OM-1 with a grip. No regrets so far.
I fully agree with what @Eelco posted, the OM-1 is worth the upgrade. Nonetheless, the X is a very good camera and perfectly capable of delivering professional results under demanding circumstances!
Hi Thomas and many thanks for important insights into how OM-1 works. I wonder why the histogram shows differently in standard LV and in S-OVF? Can I avoid it?
Most welcome. Unfortunately, you cannot avoid that - the histogram will always represent the current live view image. That has a few advantages as it changes with the picture mode / art filter, but also a disadvantage when using S-OVF. That is why I highly recommend spot metering for controlling the exposure under difficult circumstances.
Hello there, Thomas. I've recently bought the OM-1 and I was really dissapointed reveiwing the images on the viewfinder when I'm out in the field. I'm a macro shooter and I'm always reveiwing my images through the viewfinder and they are simply horrendous, very soft and pixelated even at 3x tines. I remember with my MK2 revewing the mages magnifying them at 14x and they looked very sharp and you can easily judge if your shot is sharp enough or not. On my OM1 even with those amazing 5.74 dots the reviewed images magnified doesn't looks great at all. Any advice on this issue will be appreciated. Thanks a lot, Remus
Hey Remus! The good news - this definitely has to do with some settings as everything I review in the field is crisper and clearer than on any previous model. Here are a few potential issues: 1) You record only a small JPEG (e.g. S, or M). 2) You record a small JPEG to one card and high res to the second card, but you've chosen card one as playback slot, therefore giving you only a low res preview. Let me know if this was the issue!
Did you have any adjustment period upon first starting to use an EVF Thomas? I’m 3 days into using my OM-1 and am feeling a bit uncomfortable with it so far. I’m trying adjusting a few settings to simplify the view and darken the screens a bit, and I’ve got S-OVF enabled quite often and mapped to a button. I’m a bit worried that I’ll be stuck with this slight motion sickness feeling. I was concerned this might happen and is what put me off getting a VR headset. I don’t think the high frame-rate makes that much difference, and maybe not worth the extra heat and presumably battery life hit.
Oh that is very unfortunate! I have not had that, luckily. I also do not think that the high frame rate will change a thing, but I know what might do trick: Turn half press image stabe off, it can be found under camera 1/8. This will most likely mitigate the issue as the view through the VF will give you the same motion as your brain expects, instead of an artificially stabilized view. From a technical perspective, there is no downside in doing that. I've got the same setting active on mine. Keep me updated!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography I’ve been using it a bit this morning with that setting enabled. I feel as if I can maybe look through the viewfinder for longer without the feeling that I need to take my eye away. So it seems to be helping, and it makes sense that it would do. So thanks for the great tip. But it’s too early to say if it’s solved it entirely. I doubt it to be honest. I’ve been waking up the next day feeling a bit nauseous, so it’s a delayed reaction as well. Good thing I wasn’t using EVFs in the early days I guess. When they were presumably far more choppy and laggy than now. I’ll see how it goes over the next week or so.
There doesn't seem to be a way to make the OM1 displays use red light only for doing astro (like the G9 does). Seems a pity when the camera has starry focus etc.
Hi Thomas , I really appreciate your tips about this camera since I have the om-1 also . I have one question that has been bugging me for a long long time but can not find the answer. Let say I use the manual mode to take a picture of the street at night , I set the speed the aperture the iso manually . I try to make the scene look dark . The EV shows - 3 , the LCD show the street and street light . I keep trying to make it darker so the only thing I could see is the light ONLY ( by setting faster shutter speed or lower the ISO or close down the aperture ) . The EV now show - 4 or - 5 ..... BUT the LCD or viewfinder does NOT go darker . Only after taking the shot then I get a darker picture as I intended , but not before the shot as in LIVE view ( under normal light ) . So my point is the Live view mode show only the live view brighter and darker when the EV is between -3 and + 3 , and not beyond or under , before taking the shot !! I have a Fuji and a Sony a7 before . I could set those cameras manually and see a live view of a really really dark scene as I intended even before taking the shot ( EV might go down to - 6 ). I hope you or anyone who read this post can help me . Cheers :)
Thanks for the comment - it is a fortunate coincidence, as my next video will talk about the OM-1's exposure simulation in detail - stay tuned! To answer these questions in advance - yes, the OM exp. simulation does not go beyond +-3 EV, although you can set the exp comp to +-5 EV. It is just the way they programmed it - I assume it is because they did not want the VF to go completely dark and also to better maintain AF functionality / frame rate. So that is that, my next video will be about many additional details regarding this topic. Thanks for asking and cheers!
Hi. Thank you. What about seeing nothing in the viewfinder? I only see what I am shooting on the screen? Why doesn't the viewfinder work? Why would om make this sooo complicated?
Most welcome Bill! Please perform a factory reset first (from the main menu). Then, the EVF should work like in your Sony The viewfinder switch itself (which you can check in advance) is left to the EVF (rectangle w/two strips). Short pressing it should switch displays, long pressing it should bring up a menu that allows you to enable the eye sensor so that the EVF switches automatically. You can also change these settings in the menu btw
S-OVF is a feature is missing on the Panasonic G9. Shooting portraits with electronic flash is maddening as the room lighting is very tungsten, and the electric flash custom white balance is very blue. The resulting image on the live view is horrible and distracting.
I’m going to give the S-OVF (super optical viewfinder) a trial with the OM-1. I’ve assigned it to a button to toggle. the snag… S-OVF will not toggle/activate in SH2 (on the OM-1). it does toggle in the slower speed non SH1/SH2 burst e-shutter modes. Any ideas as to why this issue exists?
Yes, this is a technical limitation - S-OVF and Night Vision is not available in Pro Capture and SH1/2. The camera "needs" the standard mode for these ultra-fast drive modes. When shooting in these modes, you should set the exposure so that the camera can provide an adequate standard live view picture. When doing so, you will get exceptional results in terms of autofocus and drive speed in these modes. Hope this helped & thanks for bringing this up!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Thanks Thomas. i find the situation odd as it appears the camera is required to (collect and) provide 'LESS' information to the EVF when in S-OVF mode then when in 'Standard' mode. I'd assume using S-OVF should be entirely less taxing to the camera's resources.
@@ThomasEisl.Photography ...apparently no S-OVF above 20fps... OMDS replied "Regarding the case of your OM-1, on this model, we found that the S-OVF function is not possible to use in the following drive modes: High Speed Sequential SH1 / High Speed Sequential SH2 / ProCap SH1 / ProCap SH2. In the other drive mode options, the function can be enabled. When checking the sequential quiet mode option, the S-OVF function works. This may have to do with the amount of frames selected. In this mode the maximum frame limit is 20fps. In High Speed Sequential SH1 / ProCap SH mode in which S-OVF does not work, the minimum frame limit is 60fps and in High Speed Sequential SH2 / ProCap SH2 mode the minimum frame limit is 25fps."
I am at a loss. Night vision is set to off, but my camera still always displays brightly even when the exposure is too dark. I just went out shooting and thought I had the right settings because it showed properly exposed on the evf... Only to find all my images are way too underexposed. Even indoors at f22 and shutter speed 4000 my evf still shows a clear and lit up image.. And night vision is off, evf is standard..
@@ThomasEisl.Photography yeah 100%. It's on standard with night vision off. It shows the exposure as I change it, but the monitor won't dip below visibility, so I can't know I'm underexposed until I change the settings just enough for it to start brightening
Now I know what's going on! The exposure simulation is limited to +-3 EV. Even if you reduce/increase the exposure further, the OM won't display it to maintain overall functionality (AF, metering, etc.) It is just the way the camera is "programmed". My next video, which is scheduled for Friday, will talk about the exposure simulation of the OM-1 in detail, it will also cover your specific issue. Hope this helped!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography ahhhhh why did they do that 😂 I'm coming from Sony which simulates your exposure whatever it is. Makes it a lot easier especially in wildlife where you're constantly changing shutter speed. Thank you tho!!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography it is located on the lower part of the screen, next to the exposure compensation number. Seems to be a dead pixel somehow but when i change the refresh rate to normal it disappears...
I discovered that the shutter is not the most important component. After my shutter died on my D200 is just ripped the whole shutter mechanism out of it. And it still works if the shutterspeed is not faster than 1/60. I recommend that you do not try this on your own cameras by the way😁
Awwww no, too late - now I broke my D800 haha Well, guess I have to shoot the fast speeds from now on haha Thanks for the comment, made me laugh - also, it would be worth a video from your side. Maybe you should even get Nikon Service involved in this lol
@@ThomasEisl.Photography yeah, a Nikon service where they only use power drills and a blow torch to fix your camera and where the customer is always wrong.😅😅😅
@@ThomasEisl.Photography it's ok if it's not too bright outside shade, cloudy, indoors, night photos, but when is bright the result is maybe at least one stop overexposure in the viewfinder that is not present in the photos after that. Because I prefer and use more the display that's why I'm not taking care so much about this issue.
