When changing oil to my 642 i just pour most of the oil down the filter housing opening(before installing a filter). Its a bigger hole to pour and probably primes the pump also.
I installed an oil filter relocator and had to prime my OM606. I disconnected the glow plug relay and the fuel line to lift pump. I cranked the engine 2 or 3 times for about 10 seconds. The old girl did try to start once, so I shut off the ignition quickly and cranked her again. I reconnected the lift pump and glow plug relay. She started up and seems to be ok at idle. Pruno
Awesome thanks! Hey would you happen to know how to re-prime a Ford Ranger or Mazda BT50 5 cyl diesel? because if you accidentally take too long when changing the oil, they loose the oil from the pump and won't self prime and destroy your motor. Great hey!!
Somewhat related question of something that caught my eye. Not pressure related, but is oil related. I have never seen the oil dipstick in the location seen on this OM606. Any significance to that? Seemed odd to me. Wondering why it is not just in it's normal location on this engine.
another very good video,but now i have an question how you get good oil pressure wen an om 602 engine in standing for 10 years and you start it up, aften 10 years.We use always mannol 7505 with molybeen and we always change 7500 km the oil oil is cheap engines are expensive
What I do is power prime all my engines, I adapt a hose to a oil pressure fitting and pump the oil thru the entire engine before turning it over, this eliminates the potential for premature wear by cranking until the filter and galleries are full. Not knocking your procedure, I just want to know everything has oil before I start an engine.
Just a comment: You may have the oil cooler hoses at the radiator inverted?. Oil always should come in by the lower port and come out from the upper port of the oil cooler. This way it removes efectively all the air trapped inside the oil cooler maze.
This is how i ended up with a shot om605 engine… I did not check oil pressure after redoing the head and i ended up destroying the engine because it was working for 10 minutes like that without oil… Never doing it like that again
@@DieselPumpUK ahh no probs thought i had missed it. Will the 500bhp landy ever end up as a give away ? Big power and vague steering has my name all over it
If you put a bit of Lucas oil stabilizer in the pump, it will make it a good bit more efficient when priming, also having a cooler prefilled with oil, will also help, I do not like spinning a engine over with out oil pressure!
Prefilling the oil cooler is a waste of time, because the oil will drain out. The engine he demonstrated here is a rebuilt unit, so using oil stabiliser is also a waste of time & money. When I did engine reco work, I primed the oil pump the easy way, by filling it on assembly, then installing it in the engine. You also need to be aware that some engines have the oil pump direct driven by the crank, therefore priming them can only be done by spinning the crank. This I do before installing the piston/rod assemblies are installed. Another thing you missed is engines do not build oil pressure straight away, but there is usually enough oil on the moving parts to prevent dry starting to allow the engine to build oil pressure when cranked for a few seconds.
If its been rebuilt with new bearings etc. Im assuming everything will have been built with assembly lube. This is there to get you till oil pressure comes and removes the assembly lube. Hence the oil changes and run in oil.
As much as I love your videos I am not fully agree with this one. On OM engine and others, if you rebuilt your engine, first start it as you do without filter but without the injectors or heat plugs to not built pressure on crankshaft sleeves. Btw, I still dream installing this engine in my B110 4x4 with only 200hp😉but French regulations are too stupids😂🤐.
