Thanks Ted. Ya my bellows for the drive shaft has a crack in it. Make a horrible sound when I start the motor. 2 years ago, I replaced the gimbal bearing, the exhaust, driveshaft bellows, and the short shift cable. Well gotta pull it all apart AGAIN (PAIN IN THE REAR) I'll replace the gimbal bearing, replace the shifter O ring (not sure if I did that the last time 😢) new driveshaft bellows, new u-joints for the driveshaft, and all new gaskets. This is not a EZ job = A PAIN IN THE BUTT. Mine is a 1990 omc 3.0l cobra outdrive. Thanks for the video, thumbs up.
Thank you for the video. I see your a teacher. Your very good with the explanations. I have watched several others videos of yours. I have been a Nissan mechanic for over 33 years and enjoy repairing boats on the side. Mostly inboard outboard because the engine is mostly like a car. I need to get more use to outboards. Thanks again fir the video
I"ve had one of these in salt water use for about 20 years. What I found was that if you pull the drive each season, to grease the driveshaft, gimble bearing and U joints, and make sure to: coat the gasket between the pivot and the drive on both sides with OMC gasket sealer coat the threads of the mounting studs with the same pack the area where the shifter bell crank lives with OMC triple guard grease it won't get stuck on, and you'll have far less trouble... I do like these even though most mechanics won't work on them I just rebuilt both trim cylinders, very few repairs over time with this drive.
Hi Ted! I have an OMC Cobra, and there's water coming in through the hole in the transom where the steering arm goes through. What seals, are supposed to prevent that? I've been looking at the parts diagrams and am not sure.
Might be (#3) the upper O'ring on the upper gimbal or the top cover seal (#29) click parts link below www.boats.net/catalog/omc/sterndrive/4-30l-262-cid-v6/434apnca/transom-mount\
I am looking at possibly buying a boat with twin 4.3 OMC cobra engines and I am told by many people to not buy a boat with OMC engines. What is your advice on these engines. The boat is a 1990 Sunray 25' cruiser. Thank you.
Ted, Do you have to replace the transom assembly or can you replace the parts. I took my boat to a shop and the bearings are all over the place from what I see in the picture that they sent me.
my 87 4.3 OMC Cobra was stuck in the engine coupler, had to cut driveshaft from inside boat and pull engine to remove coupler to get the end of the splined shaft out.
this may seem like a newbie question, but I just bought a boat with an OMC sterndrive. It's a 1991, so I believe it's an alpha? Anyway... I noticed after changing to a Michigan Wheel Apollo 4 blade prop that the exhaust seemed to be coming out all around the sterndrive. Are these normally through hub exhaust?
Michael, If your boat has a OMC sterndrive then it is likely a Cobra drive or Volvo Penta/Cobra drive - Not an Alpha which is a MerCruiser. And yes those drives have through hub exhaust so the exhaust should come out through the center of the prop hub.
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thank you. I'm still working becoming familiar with the makes and models, generational designations, etc. What I noticed on the boat when it was idling in the water was that the exhaust turbulence/bubbles seemed to be coming up right against the transom
I had my 3.0 and cobra sterndrive act like and sound like it’s locking up and killed the engine. Is it possible for the driveshaft or joints to lock up and snub the engine?
Hi I have a 1991 omc cobra stern drive. I just had it in the shop for shifting issues. Cable was replaced. Only been on the water three times. Third time I finally used reverse but it would only grind but not go in reverse. Forward works fine. What would I look for that could be a possible issue?
Sounds like cable adjustment is out. try removing the drive shift cable from the bracket and manually shifting it into gear. if it still grinds you need to have it professionally looked at.
If this engine and drive are not properly winterized, is there a location where the ice expansion typically causes a failure? Thanks for a great video!
Yes, if the engine is raw water cooled and the water freezes inside the engine block cracks and splits down the water jackets on the side of the block. If it is closed cooled with antifreeze the heat exchangers will be damaged
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 as far as the drive, there are a few versions of the swivel housing. One that has only a drain on the Port side, one that has the port drain and 2 drains on the SB side, another that has all that plus a grease nipple for the shift bell crank. In some models the bell crank is hollow and has 2 grooves, one for the o-ring, the other has a hole for grease. The other model is a solid bell crank with only the o-ring groove and the grease nipple only greases the tail of the bell crank. For winterization the port drain is obvious, it is where the water pipe runs. The SB side’s bottom drain is very important. If that o-ring on the bell crank leaked, that is where water will be, in a cavity that has an open path to the bellows, drive shaft bearing and gimbal bearing. If you don’t have this drain, I suggest you make one. If it has water (like mine did), and it freezes it might crack your drive. Keep your bell crank greased, both at the o-ring and the tail.
I have an omc cobra engine and it runs fine but tops out at about 30 mph with the throttle pushed about halfway. If I push it further, or even full throttle, the rpms increase but the boat doesn't go any faster. Any advice?
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 If his RPMs increase and the boat does not go any faster he may have a bad hub in his prop! That happened to me one year, I was only able to go about 2500 RPMs and anything over it would just slip! I would have the prop checked first!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40possible, prop with damaged blades, undersize or missing diffusor would be constant. A spum hub or spun drive coupler will only get worse. I am only suggesting a start to diagnoses.
The pump is quite high up on the drive, so you need strong water pressure (well water pressure may be too low) and make sure the muffs have a very tight seal over the intake ports. Sometimes a form of clamp to compress them over the drive is needed to make a really tight seal.
Yes over a long time, it is a small leak. water will enter around the shaft through the gimbal bearing and their may also be a small weep hole below the bearing which is to alert the owner of the bellows failure
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Thanks Ted, just had a major leak but saw manifold riser rubbers were leaking quite a bit due to technician removing and refitting clamps incorrectly while replacing starter. Technician suggests that bellows is the source of the large leak not risers.
No unfortunately I do not. Not something I work on very much anymore. I made that video before we go ride of that unit-it was worn out from years of being a lab demo unit.
Hello my name is John I need your help I have OMC cobra 1986 I need to rebuild it I found a o-ring laying down inside can you rebuilt my transmission the engine size is a 4.3 l V6 GM thank you
@@tedsmarinerepair8956 Have you had a chance yet? You're the most informative guy I've found on youtube and I need to replace mine, wanted a decent video first lol
Just trying to be helpful. The rest of the video was awesome. I have the same out drive on an old boat I just bought and I learned a lot from your videos.
@@JohnVH-diy Thanks for the feedback, When doing the work and taking the video all alone I do sometimes get in the way but then the job is done and I can't fix the video :(
