Roof light bars = I only run one as I’ve been forced a couple of times to cross deep water at night where my spot lights were under water causing a near blackout for several seconds. So I only run one solely for that season. The Lazers look great. I’ve had my eye on them for a while now and I think I’m going to use them on my new build 👍
good point, I try to avoid deep water crossings especially at night but you never know so thats definitely a good point. I have been speaking with Lazer and they suggested trying one of their Linear bars for the roof which I likely give a go and see how that goes.
I'd love to consolidate my navra light bar and 2x Hella rallye HID into just 2 driving lights. I have been considering Stedi driving lights however after seeing the difference in quality of the light output between the ultravisions and the Lazers I am now reconsidering the Stedis considering that they might be of lower quality than the Ultravisions. Unfortunately, the +$1600 price for 2 lazer driving lights can't be justified. Looks like I'll save myself some $ and keep my current setup. Thanks for your time, cheers
yes they are not cheap thats for sure, but given they have a 5 year warranty you pay less than a 1$ per day if they die when the warranty ends and I would assume you will have them much longer though. All depends how much is a good light pattern worth to you though.
I run a pair Hella 250 bull lights on my GQ for me they work great and light up the road or tracks fine ,i like the old style Q I globes recon it,s a better light for me ,these light are tough as i,ve had them for 15 years and never stopped working ,the body of them is made to last for ever i buy quality lights i don,t think they will ever let me down
I bought the sentinel elite around 12 months ago along with Lazer’s 52 inch light bar. Use is dependent on what I am negotiating. One thing’s for sure, they are the best lights I have ever had in a vehicle and would buy them again in a heartbeat. I threadlocked mine and have had no issues with them coming undone. It’s also worth mentioning that a few of the guys that I travel with have also swapped out their lights to Lazer after experiencing mine.
Nice video and LAZER might be really good. Just my experience - on my bike I use 1 BajaDesigns squadron Pro in Driving beam and 1 Diodedynamics SS3Pro in Driving beam pattern 4000K. This setup is close to what you get from projector headlight but with more intensity, hot spot in the center and light gradually decreasing towards periphery. On my car I'll go for a similar setup but even more powerful
nop want to be able to adjust them turned out they only came loose because they where a little big for my Bullbar and on corrugation would connect and rattle loose
Spring washers are nonsense. They provide negligible additional clamping force to the thousands of Newtons a bolt can provide and the soft metal does not meaningfull cut into a hardened bolt to prevent it from turning. Even worse than that, they provide a small opening for water to sit right in your threads and encourage them to bond forever. Use nyloc or threadlocker depending on application.
@@AlloffroadAu Plenty of other reasons why that might be the case. Something I found with a few of my accessories is there may have been a few high spots on the mating surface from paint which quickly wear down and allow the bolts to loosen. A second attempt at tightening these usually fixes the problem. Your first set of bolts could have been over torqued and placed into plastic deformation and after a few shock loads could have just kept stretching. You can look up "Junker" tests of various fasteners. Nordlock usually wins these and is more convenient than threadlocker but more expensive too. Nylock doesn't stop the part from rattling loose but retains the nut so you can just tighten it later.
I ordered 7" Elites with a TRIPLE-R 24 ELITE for the roof of my overland build in Dec last year. It will be done in April and I am so eager to pick it up, especially after seeing this video. I chose 7" instead of 9" because of the concerns of overheating as they bigger ones would cover most of my grille. The bar light is mostly for lighting over higher bushes to spot animals whilst driving.
I'm having the 7" on my car now, I havent used them much, but first tests are great. The 9" were too big for my bullbar (touching the hoops) and more airflow is also good.
Rooflights need a very narrow output too be usefull. Pencil beams, rigid hyperspot, bd racer. The new laser laser based pencil beams will be killer when roof mounted
Great video~blog. I use the Stedi X-E light bars for the Amber Accents. And use them in inclement weather conditions. They look great on my Ford Ranger MSRT. Laserlamp products are nice but a tad expensive for what they are!
if you in Australia I think driving lights need to be in pairs so look in to that, you may be better of with a light bar. I'm just getting ready for another Desert trip and will replace my T24 Evolution on the roof with a Linear 36, and Sentinel with a Tripple R 1250 Gen 2 keen to see how they perform. Was already very happy with Gen 1 Trippe R 1250 and gen 2 is even better.
@@AlloffroadAuI think I’ll go without but if doing a long off-road trip may get them for that. Just bought a set so will be stoked to instal them. Thanks for the reply!
After 40 years in the transport industry and driving BDoubles and road trains I would still say that HID lights are superior to LED Most interstate truck drivers I know that have been around for awhile would prefer to use an HID rather than LED. LED tend to be too bright and harsh on your your eyes maybe too bright in comparison to HID if you’re sitting there for hours and hours looking into them HID are a lot more relaxing on your eyes Personally I run a set of hella predators and I find them to be superb lights and the two of them together only draw a total of 70 watts 70÷12 equals 5.8 amps. It’s hard to find better than that.
yea I did run HDI and I can see how you prefer them as a trucky for HighWay only. I need something which is suitable as much for off road as distance and LED does a better job with that. I think light temp makes a difference for LED I find 5.7 k to bright.
And a roo is yes to spot with warm light... the brown pops. LED the brown and greens don't seem to pop different and a roo looks almost Gray to green. Travelling same road with warm fyerlights and another car I and wife stopped 100s of the on side if the road.... They with LEDs said noticed about 10 🤣
yea depends on light colour of the LED many cheap manufacturers use 5.7k and higher to appear brighter. If I only travel the Nullabor I would also consider the Fyrlyte Nemesis as my first choice (if they did not need the 24v step up converter)
@@AlloffroadAu the new 12v ones they have are amazing. I have a 12v set and will add a second and add to the roof. Better cooling and stop the annoying light wobbly from being attached to the bull bar.
@@AlloffroadAu ill have to go back and look later. its hard when trying to buy lights unless you can be there when they are tested filming not the same.
hm not sure how it’s an infomercial? Tested for a year and I have the option to run many different lights, and Lazer never paid me for anything. I show a direct comparison between different lights including the also excellent Ultra Vision. As I said it’s a personal preference, but so far best I have run.
