The car is in better shape thanks to you and your father. Good Work !!! Good to see your doing a great job and care about doing it right the first time.
Good to see you're at it again! I just began my own manta project and found out there are multiple layers of bottom metal plates welded on top of old rust holes. So I'm changing the entire floor. Keep posting my friend!
@@l3v4rt they already have. I'm looking forward to see how you're going to fix up the interior too. Btw. Your "product" tests and improvement suggestions are great in between the main rebuild videos. Tips and tricks like the trunk rubber edge bending are also great!
Great job, I was thinking about acid dipping mine with all of the hard to reach places. I am fortunate to have a person not too far away that can provide this service. I know you have gotten into most of those places as well by hand, but if there is place near you, you might want to consider doing that knowing how these cars rust.
Absolutely, getting it dipped in acid and then e-coat on is one of the best ways but there is always the argument of €€€. I have asked around and the closest option I found was in Italy and it was several thousands euros and that is way more than I want to spend here. You can do a lot of it by hand like I did but not all and especially not if you are not cutting the car apart. Getting into cavity that is hard to reach is a lot of the times just using sprays and hope for the best and this is far from ideal. The upside of this car and its bodywork magnitude is that all the insides were treated and painted before closing it off and using weld through primers etc so inside is protected and considering this will be a weekend car it should stay corrosion free for a while especially after cavity wax will be used. But if you have the option for getting it dipped and e-coated or at least quallity epoxy right after neutralisation of acid - go for it! Just beware of the time window after dipping - it can start to rust fast.
@@l3v4rt I think its about 2 months of time. I was quoted $2500 (not sure what that is in euros) but seems pretty good price. Great video and very useful when I start tearing these mantas apart. I may have located a 3rd one that can serve as parts that sat in a salvage yard for 30 years!
Thanks! Yeah, it feels much stronger even when pushing on the trolley, it used to vibrate and shake a lot, now it is like one solid unit. Stil a long way to go before the car is finished but I am trying to enjoy the process. 🙂
@@MultiTerpen hmm I have ready did that on Manta, you can see in older videos but otherwise you have to disassemble the car so nothing catches on fire, take the new wheelarch and place it in place, check the fitmwnt and make adjustments, draw thw cuttinng line with overlap (not best but prevents heavy warping or you can buttweld of you are experienced), make some welds to hold it in place (you can use magnets or small screws) amd then slowly welding so it doesn't warp - bit by bit. Then primer, seam seal it and off to next phase for getting it ready with lines and surfacing for paint. That is the rough idea. You need this for a Manta or any other car?
@@MultiTerpen need to check of I have any good photos of the process that might help you. I can do that over the weekend, send another comment in a few days, deal?
After sanding if there is no need for welding just clean and prepare the surface and surrounding for paint, degrease it and clean it with solvent cleaner or antisilicone cleaner and put on primer color. Try to keep the time of exposed bare metal to the minimum. I have a video about it coming in few days - almost done with editing. 🙂
