Thank you for your tests. I have put Osram CBIs in my Lexus and have been very satisfied ever since. High beams are hardly ever needed, even on a completely dark road, combined with the AFS, the light output is absolutely excellent.
@Sergiu Gabor Couple of things to mention. 1 . You are using only one bulb, and 10 bulbs of the same brand and model behave differently. This stands for different batches as well. 2. You need to test in high beam, because the base of the bulb can be off by a milimeter or less, but that moves the hotspot and one bulb can produce less light but due to focal point hot spot can be when in low beam. Another bulb that produce more light can have its hotspot shifted to the area which is reserved for high beam, but the lux meter will read less light in low beam compared to the dimmer bulb. 3. Different light meters ARE sensitive differently to different kelvin reading. Given LUX meter can be sensitive ot 4500k and not so much to 5500k. 4. Different bulbs behave differently based on the lens used. There are some coated lens that give advantage to bulbs with 4300k. Like the Hella F1. 5. What you are measuring is the light output measured by lux meter. What you actually care is vissible light, as light spectrum is wider than what human eyes can see. Its about the light produced in visible spectrum. 6. You are missing the Cool blue boost.
how can they vary between batches so badly, no quality control? Also, He said cool blue boost wasnt road legal and was too blue, (and probably dimmer) so he said he wouldnt test it.
Great, informative video as ever. An observation - I don't recall it being mentioned that the light output and colour temp of all these bulbs will change after a 'burn in' period. This can be anywhere from 200 to 500 hours and the light output typically improves after this time. Could you perform another test to demonstrate this? And compare new, out the box performance with performance from the same bulb, after it's 'burn in' period? Keep up the great work.
Excellent work my friend as always.. I have been importing HID’s for almost 12 years, and my supplier manufactures both Phillips and Osram. And also a cheaper brand, I have tried LED’s but I believe the manufacturer always over run them by voltage so the delaminates from the cooling surface and in my experience Xenon. Last longer than Led and also makes a better light output beam than LED, and the longevity between LED and HID the xenon is far more superior and better value for money on the long run, I have had ballasts and bulb failure with HID and one should make sure not to buy a DC ballast but rather an AC as it’s more gentle on on the bulbs, Just for fact sake I am still using my original set of HID’s in my Fiat and it is going 13 years now and for a long time it was my preferred vehicle for night driving, maybe I should look into replacing bulbs 😀 with new stock. I should
Your videos kept showing up in my searches. Before I even watched one, I thought to myself, it would be cool if an engineer evaluated bulbs and other products like this. And here you are, a quality automotive engineer haha. Glad to see it! Great content!
Allegedly, in Iceland, if you want to retrofit a Xenon headlight into your car, you can do so, and you do not need any washers or the auto levelling sensors, as long as the Kelvin temperature isn't above 7000K they don't care lol
here in Philippines, you can do whatever you want. As long as it is color Yellow or white. And law enforcers are only available to apprehend motorist from around 6am to 5pm. after that yo free. LOL
Here in the states, the only truly legal way to obtain HID or LED headlamps is to purchase a vehicle that comes stock with them from the factory. Plug in play crap is definitely illegal, but retrofits are no more legal than plug in play which IMO is absolutely ridiculous. However, depending on which state you live in determines the laws and how much they are enforced.
Happy to see the test results. A bit over a year ago, I needed to replace one bulb in my car and it seems that previous owner had Osram Original and I bought the same as only one side needed a bulb. If I would need both bulbs, I would definitely purchased Night Breaker Laser.
Another thing that plays a big factor besides old bulbs or poor condition lenses is the lights projector. Very common on E39 BMW 5 series xenon lights for the chrome plating on the projector to go dull and even be burned after many years of use. Tearing down the light and replacing the projector with a high quality one like Morimoto along with new high quality bulbs such as Osrams or Phillips and new lenses gives insanely amazing results.
This has been massively helpful. I have just had to replace my cheep Chinese hid bulbs with the phillps cool blue ones. The old ones where burnout after a year
👍 Good stuff! Your graph on the wall is awesome information. Providing the numbers after the 20 min heat saturation time is VERY important. On the road longer trips are where being able to see is most important as the speeds are higher and being aware sooner can save your life.
More colour, I think refers to its CIR. Colour rendering index. 98 is high and means that colours will be represented quite accurately, without cast or dullness.
It's great that you use a used headlight. It may not show the full performance of the new xenon lights, but realistic speaking if you need an replacement your headlights are used. As you won't buy new headlights with new bulbs it shows an realistic estimated performance.
amazing presentation, thank you very much. personally i went for the cool blue intesnse which i found at the price of 92 euros (Greece). Again thank you
Great video. But it looks like your sample of the Night Breaker Laser was not the New Generation("New Generation" does not seem to appear on the box), which has NXL in the model number. Can you confirm if your sample is the NXL, or not? The NXL has been tested elsewhere as being really bright. Edit: Upon further investigation, it appears that it does not matter if "Next Generation" appears on the carton, as long as the model number of the bulb includes "NXL".
Excelente video. Una verdadera comparación, con hechos y datos. Derriba mucha mentira que circula en youtube. En mi experiencia, debo decir que ayer precisamente, instalé los Osram night brake laser (NBL). El resultado frente a los que tenía originales, fueron los mejores. Tuve que conducir bajo condiciones extremas, neblina densa (no se veía a mas de 5 mt), lluvia intensa, carretera muy oscura. Y los bombillos Osram NBL se comportaron muy bien. Pude conducir sin problema. Solo me falta averiguar su durabilidad. Que hay mejores tecnologías, claro que las hay. Pero para mi presupuesto y las características de mi vehículo, es lo mejor que pude tener
Changed my 8y old xenon bulbs in a mazda 6 2.2d and the difference was nifht and day. Over time the bulbs just get worse. Change them 1 in the 5y is perfect.
I got some cheap 6000K, D1S from China on Ebay for my Mercedes. They are surprisingly good and better then my old Philips. The pair was just 20 Dollar.
Very interesting and detailed video. Many thanks for it. It appears that OSRAM is in a very shady business. They had the classic bulb which had a great output. For the next generation they made a bulb that is worse (-8% at the hotspot). Then they released a bulb that costs double the price of the classic and it's output is just slightly better (+3%). Brilliant! Maybe we should be buying OSRAM shares.
WAUW this is good information and save me money. This is good information test Osram and the video made a good case for choosing the classic. Dit is goede informatie test Osram en de video heeft de keuze voor de classic goed onderbouwd
Sergiu Gabor: Your videos are very good. You are a Professional! It would be nice to see a video of how much brightness xenon bulbs lose over their lifetime.
Ever heard of a brand called Lunex? Make a few different colour temp Xenon bulbs and they’re seriously cheap. Also make a vast variety of Halogen bulbs. Wondered how they compared with equivalent “branded” items.
Progress! start collecting data form the grid and draw a graphic to see the amount of light, how it was spread across, as no only the lens is doing this job. You will be able to do it more representive.
I have a good suggestion for a whiter/blueish halogen. Apparently Nokya’s Arctic White bulb claims for 7000k color. People say they’re white while videos show them as blueish, possibly a white balance issue. I know for a fact that their Hyper Yellow bulbs are pretty good as they really are yellow, and quite bright- at least for an H3 bulb. I wanna see if their Arctic White bulb really is white.
Wow this was the best practical video about a HID bulb and more of the useful information instead of being a lecture 😁 The interest persists upon LED vs HID bulbs as to which one is suitable for different conditions like Monsoons, Winter, Clear roads etc. Also the type of project needed for the different types of bulbs and their differences. Cheers ✌️
Nice video. When you tested the colour temperatur and brightness were the bulbs already burned in? Because they always get brighter after 10-15 hrs when they burned in. Thanks and greats Matthias😀
mine d2s seems really dim might on the right ill change it thanks for the test now i know it's not worth to spend double the money for almost no difference!
You should pick the night breaker from osram and compare it to Morimotos they are 200$ a set. Really questioning their prices. Also you should do like a top bulbs video including LEDs find the bright ones and go from there as the market is moving towards LED everyone wants the best LED.
Salut Sergiu! a nice comparison with some unexpected results (CBI vs nightbraker). I used to have CBIs on my Mercedes SLK R171. these bulbs in SLK's headlights were incredible, there was no need to switch to long beam when alone on a dark road. they were really that good. I guess the loupe in the headlamp itself also helped. in my current car I have the Nightbreakers. the light projected on the road isn't anywhere close to the SLK's, although the bulbs are supposed to be brighter. you made curious about the CBI next gen though, and I'm about to order them (as soon as they're available to buy). O zi bună!
I am shocked. I thought Night breaker has 4300K with simply brighter bulb. But it's similar to Coolblue intense's 5500K ~ 5800K style light temp. good but high-cost...
Do you have any more data to share from this test by any chance? I tried plotting it and while the Classic bulb does have only a 3% difference of brightness in the hotspot compared to the Night breaker, it immediately falls behind the CBI and Original bulb after the second measurement from the hotspot, culminating in in essentially 30% drop in brigthness towards the edge compared to the Light Breaker. While it is still pretty close, the CBI seems to be doing slightly better overall. It seems the light pattern does fall off consistently between all tests, they all have a slighty bigger drop in brightness between measuring points 3 and 4, but more data to feed my graphs is always welcome.
Difference between the cheapest and most expensive might be bigger if you used a new quantity projector like G5 or EvoX-R and a new ballast know to preform, like a spare kioto out of Toyota/Lexus products. Next is fatigue over time. My experience is that cheap bulbs is faster to fade. But overall nice test, and good if you just want to know what to buy for a replacement.
Hey there, after four good years with the Philips XV Gen2 D2S, I'm considering a change. The Osram Classic caught my eye, as you pointed out it's only 3% less bright than the Night Breaker but at half the price. My question is, should I expect the Osram Classic to be much warmer or whiter compared to the Philips XV Gen2? The Philips is rated at 4300K, but I couldn't find the rating for the Osram. Thank you.
Awesome. Btw, I wonder if xenon also degrade overtime regardless of hours of usage. Because I own 2009 Camry for 11yrs now, and I very rarely drive at night, thought the headlights are a lot darker than LED.
Your plastic headlight lenses are more than likely oxidized. You can remove the oxidation yourself with the proper kit, but it's a time-consuming and messy process that requires you to wet sand the lenses using progressively finer sandpaper. It can done by hand or with a drill attachment. I got good results on my 2006 BMW Z4 M Roadster using the 3M kit.
Yes, they degrade. If you have a old working bulb and compare to a new one or relative new one, you will notice that the "envelope" of the old bulb is dirty like "lightly burned". If someday the light is starting to look pinkish or redish is a confirmation that your xenon bulb is starting to die.
Daca intrati pe pagina produsuctorului Osram veti vedea ca fluxul luminos declarat pentru toate tipurile de xenoane de 35w fie ca sunt ele clasic, original sau NB este de 3200 lux restu e poveste avem practic doar ambalahe diferite design si bineinteles pret diferit, poti cumpara lejer clasic sau original ca lumineaza cat cel mai tare NB Laser insa exista o marja de toleranta de + - 15% adica se poate un bec NB sa lumineze mai slab cu 15% si unul clasic chiar cu 15% mai mult oricum marja e aceeasi deci nu e mare diferenta decat la pret.
I think your Phillips bulb was going bad. Osram turns pink as it fails and Phillips turn blue. That could be why the Phillips one at the beginning looked much bluer even though standard xenons should come at around 4300K.
This was very informative. I'm interested in why blinding glare is encountered every few minutes. Is aftermarket rubbish so popular now or just the many SUVs and pickups putting my Honda Accord below the cutoff? It seems that luck is now part of staying safe at night in those moments when we can't really see much. I'd love to have your ideas about this.
@@varmastiko2908 I suspect that it's also SUVs and pickup trucks that are so high that the low beams are shining into our eyes from above. BTW, do you know what happened to this guy? I wrote to him and got no answer. I fear he's no longer with us, which would be a great shame.
@@jozsefizsakI have no idea about him. As for SUVs and other vehicles with greater height yes these of course exaggerate the problem. But the same regulations apply to those vehicles so if they have light scatter it's still poorly designed and actually this whole situation should be addressed by the officials. But they may be too scared to mess with megacorporations sadly.
Have you done bulbs burn-in period? Some manufacturers claim 10 and others up to 30h to reach full brightness and color temperature. When I changed new bulbs in my car I have seen decent color shift after ~20hrs.
I would like to see this bulbs compared in the D3S versions. Could you do that, too? I would like to know if there are different results between the bulbs.
Salut! Pt ca am apelat la tine cand aveam halogen și bine am făcut, am nevoie de un sfat și pt actualul auto - bi-xenon d1s; nu îmi dau seama dacă video ul este actual, din ce am citit ultima generație de osram cool blue intense ar fi cea mai puternică
Nice test, but I hear nothing about color temperature. Only that the one is whiter than the other. Only the box of the Osram Cool Blue Intense mentions the color temperature which is 6000k. I wonder why the other boxes doesn't mention this important info? I suppose the Classic and the Original are 4100-4300k but the Osram Night Breaker Laser seems higher than that while the Osram website mentions 4300k but looking this test is almost the same as the 6000k of the Cool Blue Intense?
Salut ti am urmarit video si este foarte interesant. Imi poti spune te rog un amanunt? La minutele 4 si 5 cand prezinti becurile , ele au fost aprinse inainte de prezentare deoarece am cumparat si eu o pereche si prezinta o zona galbena acolo unde se formeaza acel arc electric. Multumesc
The best introduction and better than OSRAM's. I have a question If i would change my D2s to D2s Night breaker laser xenark what is your recommendation for the H7 so they can match the output color. Thanks
