Here I am working on a V115 johnson demonstrating some basic tips to educate you folks on some outboard basics. Covering how the stator works, some problems you might encounter while diagnosing issues etc.
Great explanation about setting idle speed using idle timing adjustment with carb throttle plates closed. That goes against thinking if you compare to a car when setting idle speed. That’s not mentioned in my manual. Knowing there’s more steps in the manual: Unhook the cable, synch/set your carb throttle plates closed, adjust the cam pickup position and then check the idle speed using the idle timing in gear on the water? Don’t increase speed by opening the carb plates ? Thanks for sharing
Great videos! I am having rough idle and stall when engaging into gear. Any common problems. Sounds like misfiring. Also seems to get fouled plugs quick. Mercury 150 efi.
not really unless you are tuning for racing. Leave it 2 degrees below the spec to be on the safe side. you will not notice the difference and the motor will have less chance of blowing up. Follow the manual instructions because its usually set at cranking to a different value than, ie setting it at 24 cranking will result in a different number when actually running, and the outboards have various specs and methods.
Is it possible to get the idle timing close on a trailer and make the final adjustments on the water in gear? I’ve had the engine apart doing reed valves and want to start from scratch but want to make it easier when I get on the water to do an adjustment in gear and not have to search too far for the timing mark. Thanks for your great information.
absolutely- dont swaet 50-1000 rpms either way.. i would say about 50-100rpm loss for in gear in water is about right. do it on the hose when the motor is hot- if you need to adjust remember to use the trigger first, and try the carb if the trigger doesnt work as expected. i do believe a slightly higher idle timing will provide better response and starting- but not too much of course. you have to fiddle around with carbs and trigger arm till it runs right.
@@SocalMarineUSA thanks for the reply. I have a dwell adjustment arm on the 225 Johnson that I turn clockwise in before adjusting the idle timing. After the timing is set I then loosen the dwell stop until it just touches the trigger adjustment. Does that sound right? Would you recommend a couple degrees advance on the trailer and a bit high idle speed? I figure on the water it will drop. Thanks again for sharing. I picked up a lot of theory and functions of the system.
@@jimdrechsel3611 not sure on dwell - thats for a coil based system. I dont think there is dwell on old 2 strokes. You mean the trigger? best approach is to close the carb blades all the way, and get it idling using the trigger arm adjustment - once thats running good you can leave a tiny gap between the carb pickup - that way when u adv the throttle the timing advances a little bit before bringing the fuel on, this will be more reposnive and burn cleaner - some need the carb open more to idle, its a balance of playing with things till it starts and restarts well hot, idles well - has good shifting manners in water and good power.. generally the idle stop is not used to set the timing - and if so just a little, its a common mistake to over use the carbs for idle speed basically - use the trigger arm/advance as much as possible. Good luck!
@@SocalMarineUSAChecked the idle on the trailer with the rabbit ears and it looks good. It’s 2 degrees advanced and 1000 rpm without being in the water. I’ll see what happens when I shift into gear. I was hoping you may have some advice for a potential problem. I hope it’s fixed now but what started my troubleshooting issue was that the motor would bog and not progress to higher rpm and plane the boat. I did fix a reed gasket leak and replaced bad ignition wires. I plan to test now on the water to see if that is resolved. If the motor still won’t power up would you have any suggestions to check? Possible fuel starvation? Fuel pump? I replaced the water separator, filter, bulb and fuel lines. I also used a 6 gallon tank with a clear tube. It did suck fuel but the 3/8 line didn’t fill completely up on the suction side. Is that typical? Would you have any test suggestions to troubleshoot potential fuel starvation? The carbs were rebuilt last year. I’m hoping reed gaskets (2) leakage was the issue but I would like some where to turn next. Thanks for your input and advice.
@@jimdrechsel3611 looks like youve addressed some important small issues. its common to have this issue, alot of times its erratic spark from either the trigger or pack - sometimes a problem will only show up at a certain rpm range. its really tricky sometimes. also avoid cheap chinese coils at alll costs- they leak out of the box. used oem or sierra is good. those are solid core wires and last forever. bogging could also be weak spark - its usually one or two problematic cylnders causing performance issues. I would try and simulate the problem strapped onto a trailer connected to truck with parking brake on, have the trailer out as much as possible, but enough to safely pickup water at the leg. run it to the area where it bogs - hook up a timing light to each wire and see if you can catch the flashing breaking by looking at the strobe light - hopefully you will find one or two cylinders doing it, right there is the problem cylinder(s)..
