Several serious violations here. 1. Never install a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit. 2. Never install a 20 amp receptacle with 14 gauge wire. 3. If you’re going to add waterproof sealant to the bottom of the box you should also carefully seal the top hole, and any others, to prevent water from collecting.
Not arguing with you, I’m just curious. Why is a 20amp receptacle on a 15amp circuit bad? Is there anything serious that can happen from that scenario? Also, what about the opposite scenario where there’s a 15amp receptacle on a 20amp circuit?
@@asus9596 Great question that everyone should be asking. If a device that draws 20 amps were plugged in it would overload the 15 amp circuit. The result is heat and fire, if the breaker doesn’t trip. I can tell you from personal experience that breakers do not always trip as they should and, sooner or later, your house is in fire. Why put yourself, your family or the next family that lives there at risk when it is so easily prevented? Disclosure: I am not a licensed electrician. I became a Class A licensed contractor approximately 3 months after my house caught fire in 2005. I don’t frequently post comments on RU-vid but felt compelled in this case. Thank you for your question and I hope my reply is useful!
@@ecii437 I appreciate the response. I didn’t take into account that breakers might not trip reliably. Given that information, it makes complete sense how something can go wrong. Thanks again!
@@georgecoffey9387 is it standard that breakers can withstand currents higher than they are rated for or would that be considered a faulty breaker? If that’s meant to be a feature of a breaker, what tolerance do breakers have when loading it? Are they meant to withstand, say, 20% more?
You installed the box upside down. The ground lug on the box should be on the left bottom side to match the outlet ground being on the left side. Also, you should not seal the box. Now any condensation cannot escape.
@@kimbuck-2 no problem at all in fact the ground should be in the bottom unscrew the screws and rotate it then screw it back make sure to turn the breaker off before doing anything
Nec 2017 300.5(D)(1) through (D)(4). (1) Emerging from Grade. Direct-buried conductors and cables emerging from grade and specified in columns 1 and 4 of Table 300.5 shall be protected by enclosures or raceways extending from the minimum cover distance below grade required by 300.5(A) to a point at least 2.5 m (8 ft) above f inished grade. In no case shall the protection be required to exceed 450 mm (18 in.) below finished grade.
So is that what you do? How does it make you feel? Does your ego get fed? How many youtube diy electrical tutorials do you do a day? Its obvious that you know your material. What is not understandable is why you go on diy videos on stuff you clearly know other than to feed your ego 🙄 bruh get of that high horse. If you really wanted to empress someone you should interpret that standard and applied it to this situation.
Couple corrections: Above grade exterior cable must be in conduit & must be individual conductors. That cable you have is meant for direct burial only. Some boxes come with tabs so you wont drill holes through the box.
I've searched the code book for the conduit requirement, and the only thing I found was 300.5 for underground wiring. If kept above grade, it shouldn't need conduit. Is there a different section which specifies conduit for above grade?
It must be protected up to 8' of the surface so it should be sleeved in a rated nec 2017 conduit300.5(D)(1) through (D)(4). (1) Emerging from Grade. Direct-buried conductors and cables emerging from grade and specified in columns 1 and 4 of Table 300.5 shall be protected by enclosures or raceways extending from the minimum cover distance below grade required by 300.5(A) to a point at least 2.5 m (8 ft) above f inished grade. In no case shall the protection be required to exceed 450 mm (18 in.) below finished grade.
Can you extend an existing outdoor outlet tied to a junction box on the exterior wall to then allow adding a box for connecting conduit to run a wire to another location on the outside?
Terrible Video! Dude by drilling holes in the back of the box you just threw out the Weather Proofing. Those boxes come with tabs so you don’t drill the box. I also would never run that Romex wiring exposed that way. I don’t care if it’s outdoor rated. I would run conduit with rain tight fittings. I am also pretty sure NEC code will not allow exposed romex to be run free air like that. This is a great way to burn your house down! Too many hazards the way this was done.
first, the entire box is waterproofed against the brick with sealant. Second, the cable is anchored to the brick. Third, the cable is approved per NEC for exterior use.
@@HomeRepairTutor code 225.20 states against to be protected from exposed damage. also not the correct strain relief for UF. If you were running this under a deck and came through the wood then you would be fine.
@@HomeRepairTutor Proximo didn't have to be such a D about it (the video was good!!), but the point about drilling out the back of the box is a good one. I've found this to be true from my own experience having surface mounted a bunch of boxes on exterior walls made of wood and brick. Some had sealant between the box and wall before driving the screws, some duct seal, some a full foam gasket sandwiched in there, and some a combination of things where I thought I was doing myself a favor. All of them failed within five years. The ones mounted on masonry were the worst (surprisingly!) I suspect it's because the brick absorbs and holds moisture, so it made it's way into the box over time as water vapor around the screws and condensed on the inside. In the end I suppose how protected the box is from the weather matters too (like a larger and lower overhang is obviously more protective than a higher, lesser/nonexistent one).
@@marcberm thanks buddy, I’m probably going to redo this video and post it again with your tips and lots of over suggestions, the video doesn’t meet the standards I’d like to uphold - I really appreciate your kindness and willingness to share your experience, thank you 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I don't believe it is code to run fasteners (screws or nails) from inside a junction box to outside the junction box. I suppose you might be able to get around this by grounding each screw so that they could never accidentally become hot. This has nothing to do with water resistance, which is diminished when such fasteners are used in an exterior application.
usually this style of box comes with little brackets that screw into the back but not through into the enclosure. That would have been a cleaner option, I suppose.
Can You Put A 20 Amp Receptacle On A 15 Amp Circuit? Yes, you can. There are no physical complications preventing you from installing a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit. You might argue that a 20 amp outlet will cause an overload. But receptacles don’t draw power. Unless you plug an appliance into its slots, a 20 Amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit is completely harmless. It cannot do anything to threaten your health or your property. Is It Okay To Use a 20 Amp Outlet On A 15 Amp Circuit? No, it isn’t. The National Electric Code has strict guidelines governing the use of outlets. While it allows electricians to add 15 and 20 Amp outlets to 20 Amp circuits, it prohibits them from adding receptacles that exceed 15 amps to 15 Amp circuits. In other words, your 15 amp circuit requires a 15 amp receptacle. If you have a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp circuit, you are breaking the law, unless your local electric code says otherwise. Ctto
Why you didn’t change the wire to 12/2 then change breaker to 20amp since your installing 20amp outlet anyway. Also good to add liquid tite conduit for protection ✌️✌️😁
@@HomeRepairTutor is it subject to physical damage? yes. it should be in a conduit; or rather, you should be using THHN in a conduit. you can bury this wire without a conduit so long as it is in a deep enough trench.
I would never have an exposed conductor. It would be in a conduit. I don't care if it is rated weather and outdoor proof. I am not a fan of exposed plastic boxes.
i have alot of 14 gauge stranded wire. I want to install another outlet to my exterior gazebo so Im wondering if its ok to have the 14 gauge for neutral & ground then install 12 gauge for the power, is that ok for 20 amp outlet? Or does it all need to be 12 gauge. I also want to add a extension to my exterior box, getting crowded, is there a good one for the outside metal boxThanks DR
300.5(D)(1) through (D)(4). (1) Emerging from Grade. Direct-buried conductors and cables emerging from grade and specified in columns 1 and 4 of Table 300.5 shall be protected by enclosures or raceways extending from the minimum cover distance below grade required by 300.5(A) to a point at least 2.5 m (8 ft) above f inished grade. In no case shall the protection be required to exceed 450 mm (18 in.) below finished grade.
no. GFCI is already mini circuit breaker that is its whole designed purpose to provide you with additional safety at the point of outlet it also is able to break just the affected outlet only and not cut the rest of the outlet on the circuit for example, you watering the plants, one GFCI by the plant kicks, the other on the circuit that feeds you security CAM will be unaffected
Our CFGI outlet for the water heater has flipped. We had the water heater replaced(company didn’t think to test outlet before removing old one 🙄), along with the breaker it was connected to. About a week later it flipped again. What is your advice? Need the outlet replaced or a fluke (has only flipped these 2x in 9 years)?
Those metal boxes, being made of zinc and steel, corrode over time in an outdoor application. That's why the original box failed. You might consider an ABS plastic box.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with those of us who aren't lucky enough to know or do these things. It helps us senior widows know if the guy we hired is doing an honest job.
I want to add one piece of info for people that are updating or fixing older outlets. They were smaller back then in the 70's,80's etc before GFCI. If you are replacing an old style outlet with a gfci, the outlet will be twice as big meaning you wont have room to put it back in the same sized outlet box. They make extenders for tis, waterproof add-ons that are very cheap and make your box able to fir that new GFCI. make sure to pick one of those up.
WOW! What a great little video. This told me every step I need to add an outlet to my workshop on the outside! Neat! The best way to earn a sub is a video like this for sure!
i have a porch light on a circuit that isnt working te porch light wont work and two outlets and a living room light wont work.. dunno what is bad. think one outlet doesn't have enough power not sure. uhh i want to change the porch light to a gfci . do i have to have a internal box like that i would nail into the house or an i just get awa with shoving a gfci in a hole and coiver it with the waterproof faceplate?
I’m dealing with an outlet that was just sticking out of a stucco wall outside, completely unprotected and I don’t know what the access to the cable behind it is like, but the outlet completely fell apart recently. It was powering a sprinkler system so it needs to get back in service. Do the wires come through the back instead of coming from the bottom in my situation?
Not everything that is on the internet is true. Always check on local building codes and consult with trade related professionals before taking advice from diy videos.
I’m plugging Christmas lights into this type of outlet and there’s no way to close the plastic enclosure. Is it ok to keep that plastic cover open while outlet is plugged in
Is it easy to turn these things upside down? My GFCI exterior outlet lays horizontal, but the cutouts for extension cords are on the opposite side, can I just flip the outlet or does it only go one way?
at the time code of 1:19 it shows that the GFCI plug has some sort of white packing material or plastic blocking the plug holes. My GFCI still has those plug holes blocked so nothing can be plugged in. How do I remove it?
You don't remove that material, it makes the outlet tramper resistant. To plug a device in, you need to insert both prongs at the same time, and the plastic will move out of the way.
That is a good point queenmonkeyhead - I'm running outdoor with conduit, so watching numerous videos. What's interesting in Canada- code is strip the romex that's pulled in conduit. That doesn't make any sense - why remove a layer of protection. Thanks
I know that indoors I do not have to use GFCI rated receptacles if the circuit breaker is already GFCI rated. Is this also true for outdoor installations?
I believe you have it backwards. Not every indoor circuit requires GFCI protection. There are indoor locations that currently don’t require that protection like bedrooms, living rooms, hallways, dens, lofts, etc. So installing GFCI receptacle or breaker is optional. For outdoors, it is mandatory. If it’s a circuit dedicated to or mostly for outdoor power, then yes, normal weather resistant receptacles can be installed if the breaker is GFCI or DFCI. If the breaker isn’t, then the most upstream outdoor receptacle should be a weather resistant GFCI.
Thanks David, the hearing protection is made by Decibullz. It’s a custom molded earplug which makes it fit better. Amazon has them for sale, I like them a lot 👍🏼
