This shows the Outlaw racing easy pull clutch system what I like and dislike about it. Also at the end it shows how to install. I ended up testing the kit and did find that it helped so see my other video for the results.
Fitted mine yesterday,but very disappointed.Yes,the effort at the clutch lever is less,but the trouble is loss of travel on the cable to the clutch.This means that there is not enough rotation to fully separate the clutch plates and this causes drag.
@@davidhall39 noticed similar issues so i took mine off, problem for me is that there not enough room for the part to fit so the kink it creates causes major issues
i have one that came off my 1985 ktm250. basically its leverage. it works but. you have to pull the lever more to disengage the clutch. so i took it off. your better off with a clean new cable stock
"what do you mean by pull it more to disengage the clutch"? . do you mean further in? I didnt know that these ever came stock on bikes that's interesting to know though. thanks for commenting
You've got it wrong. You need to put that pin in the closest spot to the cables. It is a class two lever. The rubbing will work itself out though it probably could've been designed a little better. In the interim the rubbing will create a bunch of aluminum oxide which is really hard and cause more wear (unless it's cast zinc). So long as you clean it out after a while and keep it clean periodically it should work fine. Taking the fulcrum pin out and letting it ride on the case only causes it to be in its most inefficient setting and then it will also wear a hole in the case. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lever
It's a little weird because they don't allow you to change the position of the load or the force, they just allow you to change the position of the fulcrum. Percentage wise, the efficiency becomes better the closer the fulcrum is to the end of the lever, in the set up anyway. I was wondering about this myself. It doesn't seem like you would get that much gain. But it's only 30 bucks so I might just give it a try. Thank you.
I read both your comments and I agree that I wasn't totally correct about the position and after going back and forth with another guy about it I came to the conclusion that there is more to it than just a class 1, 2 or 3 lever. The other guy I was debating with about it eventually told me his came with instructions and in the instructions it said the closest hole was the easiest to pull, well mine didn't have instructions so I was just going by feel and also the only other youtube video on these at the time that said the bottom was the easiest. If it was as simple as the closest is the easiest than why have such a space in between the first hole and the cable?, if it was just simple like that than there would be holes higher up so there must be a sweet spot which I do now think is the top hole because after debating with the last guy I tested the 4 positions (3 holes and without the pin) The top was clearly the easiest of the 3 holes but when I took the pin out and let it slide in the bottom and tested it that way, the amount of pulling pounds it took was exactly the same as the top hole. I tried the test like 10 times and with two different methods trying to get a clear cut winner but literally kept going back and forth so they are really close. Maybe someone else can try to do some testing but for me it feels the smoothest without the pin and I've been using it like that for year and a half and it hasn't worn even the slightest. Also when I use the top pin my cable rubs which I'm sure is hurting it negatively so if it was perfectly made than yes the top would technically be the best but mine feels the best without the pin so I'll stick to that. I'm gonna try and get one of the newer CNC'd ones now being sold on ebay and try that one out to see if it's any better. BTW did you see the other two videos on this that I did, I did more minor mods that made it better, I now love this thing and I bet without it on my old bike I wouldn't be able to do as many laps at the mx track or do the 40 miles of technical singetrack that I do.
I would think that the lowest hole is the easiest one hole way it gives the most leverage its science I know I'm right too but yea you got it right get put some high Molly grease in there and seal it up I put the pin in at the lowest position and allow the lever to free ride in there and pivot around yep best way good day any one thinks different send a link or chime in
Luckily both my newer bikes have easy clutch pull straight stock from the factory, one being hydraulic and the other cable but I'm still interested in what you are saying. You mean just a hole closer to the end of the lever kind of like the stunt clutches
Thanks yeah some others have commented the same, mine didn't come with a manual so I was just going by feel and by the only other youtube video on at the time which said the bottom was the easiest. Without the pin at all seemed smoothest to me. I ended up doing a pull test later on with a pull scale and found that the top was the easiest of the pin positions but without the pin was tied same as the top however I still like the action of it without the pin. Just seems like a more gradual pull, I have a different brand one on my Yz450f and I use the top pin though because on that one the top is way easier than without the pin. That one is CNC machined so maybe some of the other issues were fixed making it function better when working as intended.
Same with mine, makes the clutch pull a lot lighter but the bloody build quality is crap, mine keeps getting the cable adjustment screws loosening and it pisses me right off ! Top position harder, middle position stock, bottom 30% easier 🤪
There's a new CNC version that is available where they fixed literally all the issues I talked about but the cables are junk so carry an extra with you if you are a woods rider or keep in your gear bag for mx. I got stranded a few weekends ago because the cable end broke off from the cable, had to be rescued by a buddy because I was in some area where you couldn't ride out of without using the clutch.
I’ve just ordered a lever that fits in the standard perch that does the same thing, so maybe that’s the way to go. I agree the clutch pull was hellish light with the device but it’s to unreliable and clumsy fir me I’m afraid, great vid bud 👍
I checked that and on my bike it wasn't possible but there's more issues than just the reversal of cables. watch the 2 other videos to see what I did to fix all the problems cause now I love it and it helps me go those extra miles on long rides!
This will work for any cable actuated clutch just not hydraulic clutches. You can now get ones on ebay that are CNC machined and anodized. They also have fixed all the issues I addressed but the cables that come with them are garbage.I broke one this weekend that was almost new and it left me stranded in the woods so I'd carry I spare somewhere on my bike or buy the genuine Moose replacement cables that they make and use those instead of the cheap china ones that come with them. They do include a spare with it and you can also maybe solder it on to be safe but still.
I bought the EZ clutch pull off an eBay site. Installed it and I am telling every body to save there money it does not work. The Moose racing one is exactly the same as this one. I may have got a 5% reduction in my clutch pull but I am telling you that is all I got. It needs to be bigger with a longer fulcrum to work properly and that would just look bad on any bodys motorcycle. I suppose that this is making some body rich at the expense of people that really do need a better clutch pull. I may have to buy a smaller motorcycle with a lighter clutch. I got ripped off dont you get ripped off as well.
+7316bobe Ya I got mine off ebay as well, I almost sent mine back then I gave it one more try before I realized it was setup upside down. Well I guess I now know that it wasn't a fluke by the factory on just mine. Glad to hear the video helped! I was thinking about doing something similar to what you described but I was scared to start cutting up my clutch cable. Maybe I'll give it a try now that it's winter because I hate the way it looks on the handlebars! Where'd you get the barrel ends that you soldered on, can you share a link if they are online?
Just got one for my CR250R, it's cheap and poorly made Taiwanese engineering. You would think the western world could manufacture an idea like this with roller bearings and better metallurgy but hey it works..........
They look identical from what I can see in the pictures. I doubt that there there would be more than one manufacturer of this in Taiwan. Usually how it works is these companies like moose, tusk. outlaw, etc. buy it from the factory that makes it or a supply house in Taiwan or China and just put their logo on the packaging and call it their product. It's rare that companies actually make their own products anymore in their own factories, usually only the good ones do that still!
