Had my first major issue with this unit, thought I'd share/warn about it. I get this error code "5C6". Basically when the clothes get ready to dry, it cleans the heat exchanger first with water. This water for whatever reason just goes out the top back of the machine and it's wet everywhere (not a lot of water is used to wash the coils on top, so the wet floor is minimal). After it "wets itself", I get the error code with suggestions, and then I continue and the clothes dry. No issues there. Funny enough, when doing a test wash, the water that goes to the drum has no issues, and it drains all of it at the end. It is perfect, no issues (bare minimum expectations I know). But when water gets shot out in the top to prep the drying mode, it "wets itself" immediately. Any water that does make it to where it should be, gets drained normally out the hose later. Wonder if others have had this issue. This is after 50+ uses. I scheduled a repair from Samsung, bet you money the tech has no idea how to approach it, being it is a 2-in-1 with the issue being the 2-in-1 aspect of the unit. I was already told whatever fixes/replacements are done, it'll be no cost. With that said, anyone a pro with this issue? Again, the drain filter and hose are not the issue; the machine can still do a wash cycle flawlessly. It's when it initiates the dry cycle..
I haven't had any issues with my unit so far. I've run about 25 cycles. I'm curious about how easily the area around the heat pump / coils can get clogged during a coil rinse. Could it be that the drain in that area is clogged and causing excess water to spill? I googled error code and noticed you mentioned this on Reddit as well (www.reddit.com/r/Appliances/comments/1elxi4d/error_5c6_samsung_bespoke_ai_laundry_combo/). This reminds me that I should thoroughly clean that area. Good luck, and please let us know the outcome.
@AGeekDad I went ahead and popped the top open and the hose that routes to the coil cleaner was split open. Poor build quality, as that hose in particular had this line down the whole hose, adjacent to where the split happened. I replaced the 10 ½ inch hose with a thicker one of the same size (3/8 inch Inner Diameter). I cut it down to 11ish inches, snug them in place, and tested multiple times. I can't get it out by hand easily after putting it in, but put the clamps on anyway. Very snug and secure. I did the self-clean and dry to test maximum hot water and pressure. No isses, and the self dry evaporated all the spilled water puddles in the machine from the past leaks/floods. I canceled my service appointment, as they would've just ordered the same thin hose likely, but that would've been competent, assuming that same line wouldn't be present. Concerning the lint build up, I have been on top of it and the coils that I can see have been free of lint. Hose was straight up busted lol
Thanks for the update and the quick how to guide on how to fix the issue. I'm glad to hear that the area was accessible if it only required removing the top cover off and that the problematic hose was replaceable. I wonder how common this issue will be as time goes on. I'll be sure to check back if I encounter same or other issues with mine.
Interesting that you show a depth measurement of 31 inches yet the manufacturer lists it as 34 7/8 inches. Maybe it's more in the rear of the unit to measure.
This was an oversight on my part. The rear of the unit takes up additional space due to the hose connector and other miscellaneous parts that protrude. A more accurate measurement would be 34 7/8 inches.
@@AGeekDad Is that wall to door? Looking at possibly getting this, but 35" is the absolute max or my door won't close. Looking for a realistic wall + unit measurement to include the hoses. 34 and 7/8"? Might go with the GE unit because it is 1.6 inches smaller in depth.
I believe that having only 35 inches of space would be uncomfortably tight. The power plug, being thick, protruded too much from the outlet that was directly behind the appliance. So purchased a flat, short power extension to accommodate. Even after these adjustments, I found that I still couldn't close my bifold closet door without it scraping against the appliance door. The 35 inches is approximately the amount of space I have from the drywall to the bifold door. If there's no alternative plan, this setup might prove to be more trouble than it's worth. If you instead have a regular door, might work, but will be tight.
@@AGeekDad Appreciate your reply. I may have to move the machine 6 to 12" to the side so that the door can close. The GE machine is smaller, but lacks the self clean feature for the condenser coils which I think is critical.
@@AGeekDadinterestingly enough, I found a display of this unit and it was right next to the GE and surprisingly there wasn't a big depth difference between the two devices.
I recently ran a cycle with just jeans on the highest spin setting, and I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn't louder than a regular load. Unlike my previous top load and front load washers, which were quite noisy during any spin cycle and water drainage. I also invested in "Silent Guys Anti Vibration Pads for Washing Machine" from Amazon, which are rubber feet designed to reduce vibration and stabilize the washer. Honestly don't know if they make any difference with this appliance...I've noticed that this appliance itself does an excellent job of minimizing noise levels during operation, which is a big plus.
